Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Quinn’s

Exterior of Quinns. Yes, locals have asked for the street furniture in the area to be improved, and yet, here we are In one of the longest-awaited (or, for the more cynical among you, most-doubted-to-ever-happen) Dublin pub re-openings, Quinn’s Pub has finally thrown wide the doors, some six years after its closure, and after several intervening years of decay, delays and general development hell.

It’s something of an infamous pub, known just as much in the past for its brushes with poor drainage, health and safety issues and even a murder as for its reputation as a gameday location for those descending upon Croke Park from the countryside for the GAA. It was also a popular (if, apparently, ‘smelly’) student bar in the 1990s and 2000s, from back when DCU students could afford to live in nearby rental properties; not really an option now that those houses are nearly all airbnbs, but that’s another story.

We even get a bit of folklore in the demise of the previous incarnation of Quinn’s – the story goes that then-owner, Seán Quinn – devastatingly referred to on the pub’s current website as a ‘former billionaire’ – caused his own misfortune when he moved the Aughrim Wedge Tomb, a megalithic tomb of c. 2000 BCE, in order to make way for some quarrying (and to create an ersatz tourist attraction at a hotel he formerly owned, where it remains). This, as one might expect, upset the Good People, and it was all downhill from there. (Your fair scribe has not-dissimilar thoughts about this, as a former archaeologist). In any event, Quinn himself has not been associated with the pub for some years, but it’s taken the new ownership group a long time and a somewhat-controversial investment scheme to get back up and running.

The rebuilt bar at Quinn'sOriginally slated to open ‘for Paddy’s Day’ about 2 years ago, it’s finally been close enough to done to start getting customers in – just in time for the All-Ireland Final which saw Mayo break a 75-year curse to win, so we should probably never assume there may not be more occult forces at work, somewhere. This is important context for the outsider, as it’s difficult to convey just what a sellout day at Croke Park is like for the neighbourhood, whether that be a concert or a GAA final: you suddenly have an extra 82,000 people to contend with, mostly in good humour, but they will be spilling out of every local pub, café and shop, not just across pavements, but into the roads – good luck getting your bus through. One can imagine that the custom on a single big day must be a massive part of the annual revenue for our local businesses, so getting something open before the last big GAA event was, well, kind of a big deal.

Cafe side of Quinn'sSo what we do see now is by no means the finished product, but as a local resident, it was Important to go check out what was on offer, once it was possible to do so. Quinn’s is a very large building by local standards, and the new owners have divided up what was the ground-floor bar into a café – opening during the day for coffees, etc, and as a wine bar in the evenings – with the other side maintaining a more traditionally ‘pubby’ feel. This is probably a very sensible approach, especially for out-of-season operations, but it does make that ‘pub’ side seem a bit small (if comfortably furnished). The theme is, of course, GAA, and there will also be hotel rooms upstairs, all decorated in different county colours, so that continues throughout.

A pint of Carlsberg at Quinn'sPerhaps most surprisingly – and this is a pleasant surprise – there’s even a local independent beer on offer. This is not a given at most of the more ‘sporty’ pubs in Dublin, so it was great to see a Whiplash tap, even if it wasn’t up and running yet on our visit. The Carlsberg, however, tasted just as fresh as it does in Copenhagen, so clearly, considerable work has gone into completely reworking the tap lines (and plumbing in general – no smells!). There is Beamish as well as Guinness, so if Cork are playing, their fans will be well-catered to.

It looks as if it will be a while longer before more food offerings and upstairs bars come online, but a planned outdoor food market has already been advertising for vendors, so it will be interesting to watch the progress continue to unfold. And while the (men’s) GAA is done for the season, there’s still a series of late-summer concerts to get through (not that we’re complaining – Croke Park does a good job of keeping locals informed about expected attendance numbers and timing, and we’ve had free tickets on a number of occasions, including for last year’s Oasis gig, so it’s by no means a bad system) – will fans of The Weeknd [sic] enjoy Quinn’s?

Time will tell…

Where: 42 Drumcondra Rd Lower, Botanic, Dublin 9
Access from the city centre: TBD
Food: TBD, but some light snacks on the cafe side now
Sport: GAA, presumably more will be featured, albeit in a more casual way
TVs: Still getting set up, but a few already in situ
Music: A mix on our visit, but one imagines All Sport on big match days
Family-friendliness: Daytime, perhaps…but not so much at night
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium; there are other pubs within a 10-15 minute walk, with Juno, McGrath’s, Phil Ryan’s The Hogan Stand, Fagan’s and Gill’s Corner House nearby, though it’s also worth it to head to The Bald Eagle, The Brian Boru or The Cat & Cage 
Haunted: It’s had a murder, dead rats…surely, there is a story or two to be shared
Local sites of note: Croke Park, Royal Canal, Mater Hospital
Other notes: The drainage has been remedied
Socials: Instagram, TikTok

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Doom Slice @ Pawn Shop

Inside Pawn ShopIs it a pub, or is it a bar?

There are a fair few pubs in Dublin that don’t comfortably fit the ‘Irish pub’ stereotype – the dark wood, the photos and signs on the walls, the Guinness, perhaps a few auld fellas in permanent residence at the bar. But while there are many pubs in town that do follow this very broad template, especially Old Man Pubs, it’s never been anywhere nearly as identikit in local practice as the ‘overseas Oirish pub‘ you get from the likes of the Irish Pub Company, which have been marketed so effectively for decades.

But when a bar (pub?) does take an intentional step away from that globally-recognised experience, design-wise, what do we call it? And to whom does it cater? We’ll explore those questions this week with a visit to Doom Slice at Pawn Shop. Although on first glance it looks more ‘European hipster bar’ than ‘Irish pub,’ we’ll argue that it’s got clear DNA from both.

The taps at Pawn ShopThis Dame Street spot was formerly home to Berlin Bar, which was briefly notorious locally for flouting Covid restrictions and, unsurprisingly, subsequently losing their license. After several years of paperwork and renovation, Pawn Shop opened in its place. While not connected to the previous business, it did carry through something of a ‘European’ vibe, with carefully-curated spaces, upcycled furniture (including, of course, old pianos), electronic music of a particular type and a clear visual language. But it feels just as much ‘Irish pub’ when you look at (and behind) the bar – Guinness and Beamish, of course, but also a wider array of local independent beers: their own lager from Trouble, called Trouble at the Pawn Shop, plus Ambush and some rotating taps from Whiplash and Wicklow Wolf. We’ll give them a pass for the Neck Oil, given the other options. The staff, too, are clearly experienced at working in other local pubs – and we’d argue this is another element that sets Irish pubs apart from their counterparts elsewhere. Here, they seem equally ready to manage a stag do stumbling across from Temple Bar as they do making a much wider range of cocktails than one sees in most nearby places.

Pizza and a pint, on a pianoAnd while it’s *slightly* confusing where you need to go to order your slice of Detroit-style pizza by Doom Slice as there is an indoor hatch that might or might not be serving, plus an outdoor one, it’s easily sorted out. It is quite a tasty slice, it must be said, and it’s one of the cheaper options for food and a pint in Dublin (without the Instagram-driven queue for Bambino – why stand outside when you can sit inside with your slice and beer)?

This is, perhaps, why it’s much more fully-stocked with Young People than many other pubs, and there’s nothing wrong with that; while the overall crowd did skew a bit ‘younger’ than the places we typically frequent, we were by no means the only ‘Olds’ there (though that may be a different story late at night – they do stay open well beyond our bedtimes).

So, is it a bar or is it a pub?

In short, yes.

Where: 14 Dame Ln, Dublin 2, D02 XC91
Access from the city centre: In it
Food: Detroit-style pizza
Sport: Mostly not, only major events
TVs: Fairly hidden, but artistically framed
Music: Loud and electronic, in a good way
Family-friendliness: Daytime, perhaps…but not so much at night
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Porterhouse, all the Temple Bar tourist traps, Thomas Read’s/The Oak, The Christchurch, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle, The Brazen Head, or wander into The Liberties for spots like Dudley’s, The Thomas House, Lucky’s and more…
Haunted: A ghost? In *this* 19th century building?
Local sites of note: Olympia Theatre, Dublin Castle, Chester Beatty Library, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia
Other notes: Basement toilets
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Peter’s Pub

Peter's PubA quick entry, this week – perhaps fitting, as it’s a tiny pub, but one that’s right in the centre of things. Indeed, it would be hard for Peter’s Pub to be much more central – just off Stephen’s Green, and steps from the Gaiety Theatre, it occupies a busy corner-ish spot.

Although it was owned and run by the same family for the better part of 50 years, a retirement last year saw it enter the same ownership group as pubs such as Fagan’s; that seems to be when the ‘no TV’ rule ended, as there is now a screen for the sport. But the good news is that the Hope tap remained, and it’s kept in good shape (which you’d rather, er, hope, at €8.20 a pint), complete with the ‘brewed 5 miles away’ sign on said tap.

Pint of HopeAnd there are some much-needed Pavement Pints seats outside; as mentioned, Peter’s Pub is very small, and is clearly working with what might best be called a[n] ‘historic’ layout (it’s all late 19th/early 20th century vibes – dark wood, brass, framed pictures), so there’s limited room inside. It can feel rather cramped on a busy sunny afternoon, and is perhaps best suited for a quick stop-off on a stroll around the area.

For the beer nerd, it’s also handy for Craft Central, should you need to pick up a few interesting cans, and a very short walk from both Caribou and Sheehan’s – very useful options for a wider range of producers and styles, although you won’t generally find much in the way of lower prices in this part of town.

But given how relatively infrequently one does see support for local independent beer in most Irish pubs (hence our joy at The Christchurch’s long-awaited opening), we believe it’s important to note it where it’s pouring well – perhaps consider a visit as part of wishing a happy 10th anniversary to Hope!

Where: 1 Johnson Pl, Dublin, D02 HW58
Access from the city centre: You are there
Food: Lunchtime soup and toasties
Sport: Very rugby-coded
TVs: Visible depending on where you are in the pub
Music: A bit MOR on our visit
Family-friendliness: Quite busy and crowded for kids, we’d suggest one of the other neighbouring spots
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Sheehan’s, Neary’s, The Hairy Lemon, Caribou, Bar Rua, The Long Hall, Grogan’s, Sinnott’s Bar and more
Haunted: There has been a pub here since the 18th century (allegedly) – but no good stories, so far as we know…
Local sites of note: Gaiety Theatre, Craft Central, Little Museum of Dublin, George’s Street Arcade, St Stephen’s Green, Grafton Street
Other notes: Also a reasonable whiskey selection
Socials: Facebook, Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Christchurch

Outside The ChristchurchIt’s finally here!

Yes, it’s been a long ‘two weeks’ since Dublin beer nerds were told The Christchurch would be opening, but at long last, it’s in business. There’s still a bit of work to be done – the kitchen isn’t yet up and running, and there are a few bits and pieces still being put in place – but the beers are pouring. Most are from Third Barrel, the local brewery who have taken over the pub, but like its predecessors in this spot, both The Christchurch Inn and The Beer Market, it’s not a taproom as such. This is both in terms of vibe – still very pubby – as well as on paper, For Reasons. There has been much recent attention on the licensing laws in the North, where Lidl has opened a pub to circumvent some of those restrictions, but it’s far from a ‘solved’ issue closer to home.

A pint at The ChristchurchAnd while it’s a different situation here, it’s still effectively impossible for a brewery to simply open a taproom; there’s a good recent discussion of the local state of play with Friend of the Blog Sarah (now ex-of Rye River Brewing, and off to new adventures) and Galway Bay Brewing’s Marco on First Draught, the excellent new beer podcast from Elizabeth Townsend of Keroo Brewing. And so The Christchurch is a pub owned by Third Barrel that happens to pour (mostly) Third Barrel beer – just as Rascals is (mostly) Rascals, and Fidelity is (mostly) Whiplash.

So while there may not be an enormous range of breweries on tap, the selection of beers the Third Barrel crew spun up for launch is a good summery selection (barring the imperial brown – perhaps we’ll check back in on that one when it’s not so hot out): a range of IPAs (not just hazy!) and lagers, a nitro red and a stout, plus some of the usual core range like BOOM and Shut Up Juice, mixed in with a few guest taps.

A quiet corner at The ChristchurchMost importantly, though, much of the Underdog crew turned out for the soft launch; the gang was very much back together to support the new venture, and to cheer the return of Maura behind the bar. There’s been more than a lick of paint applied to the place, and the new colours are dark and soothing around the main bar, with more splashes of brighter hues toward the front upstairs and downstairs spaces – the always-odd layout remains, but it does seem a much better use of the space than in previous incarnations. A good time was had by all. For the near term, The Christchurch will be open Wednesday-Sunday, so plan accordingly – we’ll update this bit when the kitchen opens.

Finally (for now), calling one the new beers ‘Two More Weeks!‘ is absolute perfection. Well played. We’ll be back!

Where: 13 High St, Merchants Quay, Dublin 8, D08 K09
Access from the city centre: Buses 27, 77A, 150, 151, 11-ish minute walk
Food: Coming soon
Sport: Nah
TVs: Only the beer lineup onscreen at the moment
Music: Chill background tunes
Family-friendliness: Fine to pop in after Dublinia during the usual hours
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle, Thomas Read’s/The Oak are all more or less in one direction, with The Thomas House, Guinness Open Gate, Swift, Lynott’s and other Liberties spots; The Brazen Head is also a short walk away
Haunted: Collaborative ghost story, anyone?
Local sites of note: Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen’s Church, Dublin Castle, Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre
Other notes: One of a very few Dublin venues on Untappd
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Best Pubs for Parties

A pint of Hope at The Old SpotIt’s Dublin pub round-up time again; this edition is in response to a frequently asked question we get on The Socials and via email: what pubs in town are handy for hosting an event? It could be a birthday celebration or a youth team end-of-season party at a single long table, a corporate event in a private room, or even a wedding celebration taking over some or all of the pub.

We’ve had the pleasure of attending nearly all of these events in pubs across the city, and have a few that we’d especially recommend if you’re planning a shindig. For a ‘traditional’ pub experience with a private room, The Stag’s Head frequently hosts weddings and family gatherings in their upstairs space, complete with beautiful decoration. The Old Spot also has a gorgeous room that fits the bill here, along with their excellent food. Taphouse in Ranelagh has ample party space, and weddings are not at all unusual for them. The Bull and Castle is another for festive fine food and drink.

In the vaults at Urban BrewingFor a less-formal event, The Cat and Cage has a lovely upstairs area (karaoke rooms included), and we love Rascals for parties of all sorts – a range of options are available in their flexible space, and there’s excellent pizza and beer at both. The Back Page is a frequent party spot for all ages, thanks to its range of video games (it’s worth noting it can be especially full of louder children’s voices during ‘Communion Season’) – and, again, karaoke – while Token is more of a corporate event space. BrewDog seems to get both the family events as well as work-related Mandated Fun parties, but with such a large space, it’s unsurprising. There is a less-used-these-days basement room at The Black Sheep that can still be booked, but for a more atmospheric subterranean space for events, we recommend Urban Brewing, with its arched vaults and wildly-underrated cheese plate.

Shuffleboard at KodiakFinally, there are plenty of pubs and bars that have space for more casual get-togethers and events with a bit of advance notice: MeMa’s, Drop Dead Twice, Hynes’ Bar, Kodiak (with bonus shuffleboard upstairs) and The Circular are all well worth investigating for a group evening out or afternoon pints with your Meetup crew.

In short, whether it’s a formal sit-down dinner or simply some group drinks after work, there’s a pub in Dublin with just the right space; book away!