We’re excited to be nominated for an Irish Food Writing Award in the Beer Writing category – cheers to the panel and judges! And thanks to you, regular readers, for sending enough traffic our way for it to be meaningful. It’s lovely company to be in, and we’re looking forward to the ceremony; we expect to go home empty-handed but well-fed.
This week, we visit The Swan Bar on Aungier Street. And while we haven’t found any particular ghost stories associated with this high Victorian pub, readers like you will know it’s still an appropriate choice for Spooky Season simply because of its location (even if its official postal address is on the other side of the intersection on York Street).
Ah, you have no doubt thought, this reminds me of Sheridan LeFanu’s classic short story, ‘An Account of Some Strange
Disturbances in Aungier Street‘ – this is, surely, the first association all normal people have to this part of Dublin. And while our current pub building post-dates those early 18th century buildings mentioned in the story (first published in Dublin University Magazine in 1853, but you already knew that), and there is even a bit of late 17th century architecture around the area, it is still a distinctive building, albeit one in a very different style.
Inside, it has the typical dark wood, highly polished glass and comfortable snug common to pubs of the late 19th century, though much of this was burnished in a 1913 rebuild and then a major renovation in the 2010s. But it still retains touches from a number of eras, from the prevailing Victorian vibe through to the 1980s pay phone (plus a bit of unusual art here and there). Beer-wise, it’s one of a number of Changing Times pubs, which we’ve discussed before and been rather underwhelmed by for a variety of reasons; it would be lovely to see some more interesting independent beers as at spots like Sheehan’s or The Palace Bar, but the stout and red ale are both fine, and there is the mild novelty of the nitro version of the red ale. Might want to skip the hazy, though.
Finally, back to LeFanu; we won’t spoil the story (though if you’ve made it this far, you’ve surely read it at some point, unless you’re more of a Carmilla stan – we get it), but we would recommend paying him a visit at this time of year. He’s buried in Mount Jerome Cemetery, and while this year’s Bram Stoker Festival tours are sold out, you can have an unmediated visit at your leisure. Perhaps bring some green tea…
Where: 58 York St, Dublin, D02 RW67
Access from the city centre: In it by some standards, or buses 14, 15, 16D, 68, 80, 122, 158; 10 minute walk
Food: Crisps, Dublin Pizza Company slices
Sport: All the usual sport, but very much rugby-forward
TVs: Screens around the pub
Music: More television on our visit
Family-friendliness: Not much for kids to do, but we imagine there are a few for daytime sports viewing
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Egan’s, Thomas Moore Inn, The Long Hall, The Hairy Lemon, Caribou, Peter’s Pub, Grogan’s…and many more within a 10-minute walk
Local sites of note: Whitefriars Street Church, National Archives of Ireland, St Stephen’s Green, The Little Museum of Dublin, Archaeology Lidl
Haunted: Again, no good stories – why can’t more local pubs create cracking ghost stories instead of phony history?
Other notes: Fine whiskey selection
Socials: Instagram, Facebook
Despite having ‘The Capstan Bar‘ spelled out in large letters on the side of the building, this pub is more commonly knowns as
Indeed, nothing in Fallon’s looks much older than the early 20th century, which makes sense – it was rebuilt in 1911 after a fire, and most records seem to indicate a firm
But back to Fallon’s – it’s wonderfully quiet (or, at least, was on our afternoon visit), and the snug at the front might be a good addition to our
Editorial note: This post was originally published on 2 October, 2025, but we have updated with some new spooky notes for 2026.
We’re less inclined toward the flashy, big-name haunting at
Sticking with one of the more well-known spots for spooky vibes, we can’t miss
But we also want to shine the spectral spotlight on another pub whose apparitional associations are often overlooked:
We briefly name-checked Brogan’s in our roundup of the
But this pub was also an important spot for more recent social history; before becoming Brogan’s, it was The Viking Inn, one of Dublin’s first reasonably
And local craft beer nerds may not find much to get excited about here nowadays (though there is a well-used Ambush tap – it just looks a bit lonely amongst all the Guinness memorabilia, unless you count the Beamish tap as ‘other’), the basement was the original home to
To very, very broadly paraphrase
But having been reliably informed by
Perhaps the real draw, though, is the Kinnegar tap – a reliable Scraggy Bay, and for a mere €7.20; this is an entire euro cheaper than you’ll find it at some nearby pubs, so certainly noteworthy. There’s also Galway Hooker, but we’ve never been fans of any of their beers (even before their rather confusing recent history of ownership and recipe changes), so no need to explore that option. And while we haven’t been in the pub much before this occasion, the attached off-license is quite a useful one, with a nice selection of beers from local stalwarts like Hope and Rascals. Again, it’s something of a time-warp with the need to be buzzed in the door, but for a small shop, it has a pleasantly surprising range of choices.
This week’s Dublin pub is another frequently-requested one that we’ve put off visiting for far too long, and we were quite wrong to delay. Although previously labouring under the misapprehension that 
It’s September, and that means the
The Brazen Head
Moving on to pubs associated with
A number of still-extant local pubs played roles in the Easter Rising and the War of Independence;
Finally, we’ll finish with something of an oddity, historically-speaking. As regulars know, most stories of secret tunnels or ‘ship’s timbers’ used to build pubs are Lies, and you should all pick up
We tend to avoid bigger crowds when out and about (and, frankly, we like to be home early – sleep is important!), but we recently made an exception to stop into
It certainly leans more ‘gastro’ than ‘pub,’ but the overarching feeling about the place is ‘
And while it may feel a bit less spontaneous than your typical
And while we are usually visiting
Part music venue, part dive bar,
And while the formal stage at the back of the main floor makes it feel more venue than pub, it’s got a rather respectable beer lineup, including its own beer from Trouble, as well as the more-common Ambush. There is also a Kilkenny tap – it’s no longer so lesser-spotted around Dublin – and the other usual suspects.
But downstairs, where there are more seating and stage options, is where there’s a bit of a slightly eerie historic atmosphere; the stone walls, low lighting, cool temperature and quiet (during the afternoon – not, of course, so much at night during a gig) do suggest, even if it’s ever-so-slightly, The Unseen. We couldn’t find any good ghost stories, but they do put on some good Halloween shows, so it’s worth keeping an eye out for that, even if the folklore isn’t forthcoming.
While you’re unlikely to find us out and about at one of their 2 am events, in a city with an ever-shrinking number of creative and arts spaces for both emerging and established artists, it’s handy to have one with a real personality; being in a 300-ish year old building is a bonus.
In a small city like Dublin, it’s relatively easy to rally local beer nerds with a little bit of novelty – news travels quickly amongst our cohort – and whether it’s a new pub or, in this case, a bit of a throwback experience, it will be thoroughly investigated within days.
And while there is no beer engine option here, there is a 1960s tap box on the bar, set up to dispense Guinness at something closer to room temperature. Naturally, we’ve all had to give it a go. So much of Guinness culture is the theatre around its presentation and serving – the two-part pour (don’t get us started on that, nor on Splitting the G, except as a parody concept), letting it settle, the branded glassware all play a part. And there’s a special glass involved here if you order a pint from the tap box – the extra gold on the lettering is a nice touch.
And does it taste markedly different from ‘cold’ Guinness? Well…perhaps a bit, though it’s also a similar experience if you’re slowly sipping, and the beer has warmed up while you’ve taken your time over it. But as a bit of a change from the standard Guinness pint (also, it should be noted, very much available here, along with Changing Times, though we’ve