Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Swan Bar

We’re excited to be nominated for an Irish Food Writing Award in the Beer Writing category – cheers to the panel and judges! And thanks to you, regular readers, for sending enough traffic our way for it to be meaningful. It’s lovely company to be in, and we’re looking forward to the ceremony; we expect to go home empty-handed but well-fed.

Swan mosaic outside The Swan BarThis week, we visit The Swan Bar on Aungier Street. And while we haven’t found any particular ghost stories associated with this high Victorian pub, readers like you will know it’s still an appropriate choice for Spooky Season simply because of its location (even if its official postal address is on the other side of the intersection on York Street).

Changing Times stoutAh, you have no doubt thought, this reminds me of Sheridan LeFanu’s classic short story, ‘An Account of Some Strange
Disturbances in Aungier Street
‘ – this is, surely, the first association all normal people have to this part of Dublin. And while our current pub building post-dates those early 18th century buildings mentioned in the story (first published in Dublin University Magazine in 1853, but you already knew that), and there is even a bit of late 17th century architecture around the area, it is still a distinctive building, albeit one in a very different style.

 

Friend of the Blog Katie - she's on the phoneInside, it has the typical dark wood, highly polished glass and comfortable snug common to pubs of the late 19th century, though much of this was burnished in a 1913 rebuild and then a major renovation in the 2010s. But it still retains touches from a number of eras, from the prevailing Victorian vibe through to the 1980s pay phone (plus a bit of unusual art here and there). Beer-wise, it’s one of a number of Changing Times pubs, which we’ve discussed before and been rather underwhelmed by for a variety of reasons; it would be lovely to see some more interesting independent beers as at spots like Sheehan’s or The Palace Bar, but the stout and red ale are both fine, and there is the mild novelty of the nitro version of the red ale. Might want to skip the hazy, though.

Finally, back to LeFanu; we won’t spoil the story (though if you’ve made it this far, you’ve surely read it at some point, unless you’re more of a Carmilla stan – we get it), but we would recommend paying him a visit at this time of year. He’s buried in Mount Jerome Cemetery, and while this year’s Bram Stoker Festival tours are sold out, you can have an unmediated visit at your leisure. Perhaps bring some green tea…

Where: 58 York St, Dublin, D02 RW67
Access from the city centre: In it by some standards, or buses 14, 15, 16D, 68, 80, 122, 158; 10 minute walk
Food: Crisps, Dublin Pizza Company slices
Sport: All the usual sport, but very much rugby-forward
TVs: Screens around the pub
Music: More television on our visit
Family-friendliness: Not much for kids to do, but we imagine there are a few for daytime sports viewing
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Egan’s, Thomas Moore Inn, The Long Hall, The Hairy Lemon, Caribou, Peter’s Pub, Grogan’s…and many more within a 10-minute walk
Local sites of note: Whitefriars Street Church, National Archives of Ireland, St Stephen’s Green, The Little Museum of Dublin, Archaeology Lidl
Haunted: Again, no good stories – why can’t more local pubs create cracking ghost stories instead of phony history?
Other notes: Fine whiskey selection
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Fallon’s (aka The Capstan Bar)

Outside Fallon'sDespite having ‘The Capstan Bar‘ spelled out in large letters on the side of the building, this pub is more commonly knowns as Fallon’s to locals. And while the ‘est 1619’ sign may hang above the entrance, the pub’s website is a bit more circumspect, only referencing ‘a legacy dating back to 1619,’ which, while still overstating the case, is made much less of a selling point than the entirely fakety-fake date The Brazen Head likes to claim, only a short walk away.

Inside Fallon'sIndeed, nothing in Fallon’s looks much older than the early 20th century, which makes sense – it was rebuilt in 1911 after a fire, and most records seem to indicate a firm late 19th century foundation for a pub on this specific spot, though there is evidence of the re-use of elements of earlier buildings. But this area – bordering The Liberties and The Coombe – had dozens of pubs (or, before that, pub-like businesses) in centuries prior, and ‘The Capstan‘ is a reference to the sailors and dock workers who would have frequented the area in the past. It’s sported the ‘Fallon’s‘ name since the 1970s; there is likely an entire thesis to be written on how and when Irish pubs have names more or less permanently assigned to them, and how those do still continue to evolve today. In short, there’s plenty of history in this area.

A Wicklow Wolf Elevation at Fallon'sBut back to Fallon’s – it’s wonderfully quiet (or, at least, was on our afternoon visit), and the snug at the front might be a good addition to our Best Pubs for Books roundup. There was a fairly even split between locals and well-behaved tourists on our visit, all enjoying the wooden floorboards and ceiling that offer something of an organic feel. There are independent locals beers on at reasonable prices, though most of the tourists were in for their ‘best Guinness,’ as per usual.

But if we were to recommend a ‘best way to enjoy’ Fallon’s, we’d suggest a browse at Marrowbone Books and a quiet pint after with your ‘new find’ – there’s no better way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

Where: 129 The Coombe, The Liberties, Dublin 8, D08 NP52
Access from the city centre: Buses 13, 14, 15, 15A, 15B, 16, 27, 68, 77A, 122, 150, 151 or 18ish minute walk
Food: Toasties, soup
Sport: Occasional big events
TVs: Small screen
Music: Blissfully quiet
Family-friendliness: A few kids having a weekend afternoon Coke & crisps on our visit
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Fourth Corner, Lucky’s, Lynott’s, Molly’s Bar, Drop Dead Twice, The Liberty Belle, Dudley’s, The Lord Edward, Arthur’s, Guinness Open Gate Brewery, Swift, The Brazen Head, The Christchurch…and many more
Local sites of note: St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Marsh’s Library, Chester Beatty, Dublin Castle, St Audoen’s Church, Christ Church Cathedral, Dublinia, Guinness Storehouse
Haunted: There’s plenty of good archaeology under these streets…
Other notes: While the toilets are on the main floor, they are tight squeezes
Socials: Instagram, Facebook, TikTok

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Best Pubs for Ghosts

Gargoyle friend at The Bull & CastleEditorial note: This post was originally published on 2 October, 2025, but we have updated with some new spooky notes for 2026.

Perhaps surprisingly to some (certainly, to us), Dublin pubs do not contain a wealth of ghostlore. There are, of course, a few good stories, but there isn’t the critical mass of spectral servants, long-dead landlords and pesky poltergeists who turn up in the dozens (and dozens) of books about haunted pubs on the Neighbouring Island. Indeed, we have books covering small parts of individual counties that span to over 100 pages, but for whatever reason*, Irish pubs simply don’t seem to have the same ghostly population – at least, in the ‘true ghost story’ tradition. We do have centuries of weird fiction, covering ghosts, vampires and other visitors from beyond the veil, and it’s certainly not just Bram Stoker, whose namesake festival is back with a bite for 2026 – Sheridan LeFanu got the vampire train rolling with Carmilla, back in 1872. We highly recommend local stalwarts Swan River Press for some wonderfully creepy tales, many by too-long-overlooked by Irish women writers like Rosa Mulholland (buried in Glasnevin) and Dorothy Macardle, to name only two. We’d recommend taking some books to one of the spooky pubs here mentioned, or, if you’re of a nervous disposition, one of these instead.

However, ’tis the season, and we always have an eye or ear out for a good creepy pub story. One of our favourite tales is tied to the Bull & Castle, although the current building replaced the one in which James Clarence Magnan was born; nonetheless, he’s meant to haunt the place, drifting around and leaving a melancholy atmosphere (as you do). And the pub does have a very atmospheric feel, so it’s well worth a visit for a spooky pint.

Spooky decor inside The Brazen HeadWe’re less inclined toward the flashy, big-name haunting at The Brazen Head, though at least there’s historical reason to associate Robert Emmet with the pub (unlike its entirely spurious ‘founding date’), so we’ll give it a pass, with reservations. Just around the corner (and we swear we’ll get to spooky pubs outside The Liberties, but it does have some of the more well-preserved ‘older’ buildings in Dublin, so sorry/not sorry), The Lord Edward is meant to still accommodate its namesake ghost, and the décor would back that up.

The clock at Mulligan'sSticking with one of the more well-known spots for spooky vibes, we can’t miss The Gravediggers; of course, the location next to Glasnevin Cemetery helps (see? We left The Liberties!), but it’s also got a proper ghost story of the ‘messing with the electrics‘ sort, which is always interesting from a folklore/ghostlore classification perspective (well, we get excited about that sort of thing). Similarly, Mulligan’s and Brogan’s both have more ‘modern haunting’ elements – we ignore mention of the dreaded orb, but we do enjoy non-specific bumps, knocks, moving pints and the like – and L. Mulligan, Grocer, also has some gentle ‘haunted’ vibes in that direction.

There is another ‘classic’ haunting of the folkloric stripe at The Portobello Bar, where a 19th century lock-keeper still keeps watch…or, perhaps, lures victims into the canal near Rathmines Bridge – if time permits, we’ll investigate this one properly this month and provide an update (that update: the food is good, but the feel isn’t super-spooky). The Bleeding Horse also has some literary ghost cred (yes, Swan River Press again), so it nearly counts in this list.

Holidays at The Cat & Cage - always great for all the familyBut we also want to shine the spectral spotlight on another pub whose apparitional associations are often overlooked: Doyle’s Corner. Whilst nowadays, with Gavin James onboard, its musical reputation is growing again, but in Brendan Behan’s day, it was known as the pub in which executioner Albert Pierrepoint would relax pre- or post-work at nearby Mountjoy Prison – and if you haven’t listened to the relevant Three Castles Burning episode, now is your chance. It even had reports of poltergeist activity in the 2000s.

And while we still have no creepy tales about The Cat & Cage, well…we hope there are some out there, it would be a brilliant spot for a ghost story on a chilly night. It’s also right next to an atmospheric churchyard, and makes for an ideal spot to pause on an autumnal stroll.

Perhaps we need a pubby ghost story contest…

 

*Would happily retire and do a folklore PhD on this topic. Just saying!

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Brogan’s

Exterior of Brogan's by nightWe briefly name-checked Brogan’s in our roundup of the Best Pubs for History, but having recently had occasion to stop in on our way to a gig at the Olympia, its near neighbour, it was high time to expand upon that. Unlike some other pubs which trade on either imagined or exaggerated history, Brogan’s nearly does the opposite; there are many fascinating layers here that are barely touched upon in promotional material for its current incarnation.

Although it’s been Brogan’s since the early 1990s, the 4-story building at 75 Dame Street began life as a Georgian townhouse in the 1750s. It had a number of commercial uses, beginning later in the following century, finally becoming a pub in the late 19th century. This is perhaps when its most well-known Fenian connections date from: this is where the Invincibles, who met here regularly when it was known as Wrenn’s, planned the 1882 Phoenix Park assassinations. It was also a regular meeting spot for some key figures in Ireland’s independence struggle in the 1920s, or so the stories go (yes, despite being just opposite Dublin Castle, and no, we don’t believe there’s a tunnel – if nothing else, it would be constantly flooded).

Inside a crowded Brogan'sBut this pub was also an important spot for more recent social history; before becoming Brogan’s, it was The Viking Inn, one of Dublin’s first reasonably well-known gay bars. From 1979 until 1987, this was a true community meeting spot in a very different Ireland. Its proximity to the (also allegedly haunted – we’ll come back to this in a moment) Olympia Theatre didn’t hurt, either.

Stairs to nowhere, nowAnd local craft beer nerds may not find much to get excited about here nowadays (though there is a well-used Ambush tap – it just looks a bit lonely amongst all the Guinness memorabilia, unless you count the Beamish tap as ‘other’), the basement was the original home to Underdog, so once upon a time, there were more varied beer options here (if you didn’t mind your feet occasionally getting damp).

But Brogan’s also appeals to us as one of the few Dublin pubs to have a bit (emphasis on the ‘bit’) of ghostlore…it’s of the low-key poltergeist variety, with clinking glasses, footsteps and the odd slamming door. As we get closer into Spooky Season, and with so few good Haunted Pub stories in the neighbourhood, we’ll take it.

Bring on the ghosts!

Where: 75 Dame Street, Dublin
Access from the city centre: More or less in it
Food: Crisps, peanuts
Sport: All the usual big sports
TVs: Quite a few, not always on
Music: Very MOR on most of our visits
Family-friendliness: Not the most kid-friendly spot
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Porterhouse, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle, The Christchurch, The Brazen Head, Thomas Read’s, The Oak…and that’s just getting started (and avoiding most of Temple Bar)
Local sites of note: Olympia Theatre, Dublin Castle, Dublin City Hall, Chester Beatty Library, Christ Church Cathedral, Dublinia
Haunted: Knock once for yes?
Other notes: Although not on our Best Pubs for Books list, there are some books to borrow while you relax with a pint
Socials: Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: McGrath’s

Outside McGrath'sTo very, very broadly paraphrase Paul Collins, the spots you don’t visit in your first few weeks of living in a new area become places you never go; they seem oddly out of your orbit. That has been the case for us with McGrath’s, a pub that is mere steps from home, but one we had previously only had one brief visit into, in between Covid lockdowns. That timing, no doubt, played a role, as did the fact that other pubs nearby either had a reliable children’s menu or had re-opened under new management, so there was a built-in excuse to visit those. And as there was no independent beer option on that single visit, there was no compelling reason to go back, especially when Juno and The Cat & Cage have some more compelling (if not inexpensive) choices for our fellow Drumcondra-area neighbours.

Scraggy Bay at McGrath'sBut having been reliably informed by someone who knows that there should be some local pints at McGrath’s – and at a reasonable-for-Dublin price – we paid another visit. But before we get to the drinks, it’s a spot that requires a bit more descriptive detail. Unlike many of its nearby counterparts, the interior (and, indeed, exterior, with its neon ‘LOUNGE’ sign) are not the more common-or-garden late 19th century pub style, nor its more modernised descendant, though the structure itself was built in the 19th century as housing. It became a pub at some point before 1938, when it took its current name, and the mostly-light wood and light fixtures look like it was last meaningfully refreshed in the 1960s. This adds a certain time-capsule charm, and it is certainly unpretentious.

The bar at McGrath'sPerhaps the real draw, though, is the Kinnegar tap – a reliable Scraggy Bay, and for a mere €7.20; this is an entire euro cheaper than you’ll find it at some nearby pubs, so certainly noteworthy. There’s also Galway Hooker, but we’ve never been fans of any of their beers (even before their rather confusing recent history of ownership and recipe changes), so no need to explore that option. And while we haven’t been in the pub much before this occasion, the attached off-license is quite a useful one, with a nice selection of beers from local stalwarts like Hope and Rascals. Again, it’s something of a time-warp with the need to be buzzed in the door, but for a small shop, it has a pleasantly surprising range of choices.

We may avail ourselves of the ‘affordable’ Scraggy more often in future, now that we are aware of it…

Where: Drumcondra Road Lower, Drumcondra, Dublin, D09 X5P6
Access from the city centre: 1, 13, 16, 44, 122, F1, F2, F3; 35ish minute walk
Food: Scampi fries, crisps
Sport: Golf, football, GAA, etc.
TVs: In various spots around the pub and in the lounge
Music: Just the sport on our visit
Family-friendliness: A fair few kids in on a weekend afternoon
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – there are other pubs within a shortish walk, with Juno, Quinn’s, Phil Ryan’s The Hogan Stand, Fagan’s and Gill’s Corner House nearby, though it’s also worth it to head to The Bald Eagle, The Brian Boru or The Cat & Cage
Local sites of note: Croke Park, Mater Hospital, Royal Canal
Haunted: Does light phrogging count?
Other notes: Although food does come up if you search, there is no evidence of a current non-salty snack food offering
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Mulligan’s of Poolbeg Street

The back room at Mulligan'sThis week’s Dublin pub is another frequently-requested one that we’ve put off visiting for far too long, and we were quite wrong to delay. Although previously labouring under the misapprehension that Mulligan’s of Poolbeg Street was a pub only for Guinness bores (albeit one with a few good stories), it is, in fact, delightful in nearly every way that appeals to us.

Although it does (actually) have an 18th century license, the modern pub looks barely touched since its 1880s rebuild. The dark reds and yellows, the wood panelling and the somewhat spare furnishing make for an unfussy Old Man Pub experience. It is, happily, lacking the busy array of old signage and remaindered hardware that can be overdone in some places, especially in overseas Oirish Pubs. There are two distinct sides of the pub, one entirely free of televisions if you prefer that experience. The beautiful back room is perfectly atmospheric, and there’s even a bonus outdoor beer garden.

A handy sign at Mulligan's
A handy sign at Mulligan’s

And yes, the Guinness may be a draw, but there is a very strong local independent lineup as well: several Wicklow Wolf and O’Hara’s options are on offer alongside The White Hag’s Little Fawn. But even among the macro beers, it’s a wider-than-usual array: the full Guinness/Beamish/Murphy’s blind tasting is possible, and there’s Harp and Kilkenny as well, plus some handy non-alcoholic options. In short, there’s something for every beer drinker (as well as some ciders for good measure).

But it’s the stories that bring people in (and back) – we’re much more interested in Judy Garland’s visits than JFK’s – though there are so many tales of this particular pub that it has its own dedicated book. We’d also highly recommend a listen to this Publin episode about how an American visitor’s ashes came to be resting in the clock; it certainly drives home some of the pub’s atmosphere.

The clock at Mulligan'sAs regular readers will know, we collect ghostlore of all stripes, and frequently complain that we simply don’t get enough of it around Dublin pubs, so finding a few good tales (especially as we closer to Spooky Season) is always cause for joy. The fact that the sightings (soundings?) in question are a bit shadowy and vague only adds to their appeal.

Finally, the other reason we wish we’d stopped in before is that Mulligan’s also feels much more urban and down-to-earth than even some of its near neighbours; the rather florid JR Mahon’s around the corner can feel entirely suburban in comparison. As city folk, the vibe in Mulligan’s is much more (for lack of a better word) straightforward; the fact that they also have a cracking beer lineup is a real bonus that will keep us coming back to do a bit of ghost-bothering.

Where: 8 Poolbeg Street, Dublin 2
Access from the city centre: Right there
Food: Peanuts, scampi fries, crisps
Sport: The usual football, etc
TVs: Screens on one side of the bar
Music: Low-key tunes
Family-friendliness: Grown-up vibes
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Cassidy’s, Tapped, Harty’s Bar, Bowes, JR Mahon’s, Bill Aherne’s, The Oval, The Palace Bar, The Flowing Tide, Piper’s Corner and many more
Local sites of note: NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, Trinity College, Abbey Theatre, Irish Whiskey Museum, O’Connell Street
Haunted: FINALLY, some spooky goings-on are reported
Other notes: Is it the platonic ideal of a Dublin pub? Perhaps…
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Best Pubs for History

A glass of Rye River Upstream Pale Ale in the beer gardenIt’s September, and that means the Dublin Festival of History is nearly upon us; as ever, many wonderful events have sold out almost instantaneously, but there are more to explore. You can also create your own historic pub crawl – and maybe learn a little bit along the way.

For our purposes here, we aren’t looking for Dublin’s ‘oldest’ pub (we bang on enough about the bogus entries in the ‘oldest pub’ category across the country *cough* Sean’s Bar *cough*) or most literary pub, but rather, those with a reasonably legitimate historical claim to fame. Not of the ‘was once mentioned in Ulysses‘ or ‘Brendan Behan drank here’ sort, as we’d be here all week, but those with documented (or at least well-attested) historical connections. Given that the Wide Streets Commission knocked down much of medieval Dublin, we have no truly ‘old’ pubs (or even ‘old’ pubs that were once built as something else) to explore, so we’ll start off with pubs that have associations with the 1798 rebellion.

A pint at The Cat & CageThe Brazen Head and The Lord Edward both have arrays of 1898 memorabilia (although The Lord Edward is ‘only’ a late 19th century building, and feels much more like a 1960s pub than anything else), commemorating the centenary of the 1798 rebellion, though The Brazen Head goes a few steps further and claims – with at least some good evidence – that events were, to some extent, planned or discussed here – ditto Robert Emmet’s 1803 uprising. Indeed, we would love to see them lean more into this more interesting (and fact-based) history vs their entirely imaginary 1198 ‘founding.’ With so much real history – as well as a bit of related folklore – why not focus on that? (Yes, we know the ‘why’ is that many tourists are very willing to believe anything they’ve been told and it makes them feel good to see the ‘oldest fill-in-the-blank’ – it’s just a shame they are missing out on a much more interesting, if more complex, story). The Cat & Cage also claims a bit of 1798 action, as it was a postal stop during its time as a coaching inn; rebels seized a postal cart outside as a sign that the rebellion was on. We would still love to see a full historical survey of The Cat & Cage, as we suspect there may well be more going on there, archaeologically and archivally-speaking…and, frankly, we find it a much nicer pub than its city centre counterparts.

Exterior of The Long HallMoving on to pubs associated with the Fenian movement in the 1860s and 1880s, there are a few more takers – not particularly surprising, as so many Dublin pubs are late 19th century buildings at the earliest. The Bleeding Horse and The Long Hall (Cromien’s at the time) both trade on their associations to the movement without being entirely defined by them. Brogan’s (trading as Wrenn’s back then) is where the 1882 Phoenix Park assassinations were planned by the Invincibles; the event was organised just across the street from Dublin Castle, mere steps from the colonial establishment – whilst talk of a tunnel is likely no more than just that, the basement does flood from the old castle moat, as OG Underdog (RIP) regulars know all too well. The Hut also served as something of a Fenian meeting spot too, later in the 19th century, so it is said, though there’s little to tell the tale now amid the well-kept Victorian pub splendour.

Busts of Irish independence leaders inside The OvalA number of still-extant local pubs played roles in the Easter Rising and the War of Independence; The Portobello Bar (known as Davy’s) became part of the action, while The Oval was destroyed completely in 1916, and required years to rebuild. Cleary’s, meanwhile, was another meetup spot for Michael Collins and Harry Boland, among others, though Collins was also partial to The Palace Bar, and The Confession Box (previously The Maid of Erin) was another key locale for Volunteers. We highly recommend a viewing of this video featuring all-around legend Donal Fallon for more, and we always recommend his absolutely wonderful The Dublin Pub: A Social and Cultural History for further reading. We assume you’re all already listening to Three Castles Burning.

The Dublin Pub at Underdog (RIP) - yes, we're cheating with this picture.Finally, we’ll finish with something of an oddity, historically-speaking. As regulars know, most stories of secret tunnels or ‘ship’s timbers’ used to build pubs are Lies, and you should all pick up Historic Building Mythbusting by James Wright for more (or listen to us chat historic pub nonsense with James on the Beer Ladies Podcast). However, The Oak’s wooden panelling is said to have come from the RMS Mauretania, when its fittings were sold off in 1934. Is it entirely true?

Well, it makes a good story…and we’re willing to give this one a bit of credence. It looks the part, and the management doesn’t go out of its way to tell you about it.

And as mentioned at the start, there are plenty of local pubs with literary and journalistic associations, those with sporting links, musical legends and so on…just be wary of any advertising ‘early’ foundation dates or other overly-specific superlatives. A thoughtfully critical eye can be a fine companion to a nice pint, and a lovely way to begin a historic adventure.

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: PYE

Inside PYEWe tend to avoid bigger crowds when out and about (and, frankly, we like to be home early – sleep is important!), but we recently made an exception to stop into PYE in Dundrum at what looked to be close to peak weekend action. Despite the crowds, the very professional and friendly staff managed to find our group a handy corner, and kept us fed and watered in the process.

But let’s back up – what kind of a place is PYE, and who is the target demographic?

Dog rules for PYEIt certainly leans more ‘gastro’ than ‘pub,’ but the overarching feeling about the place is ‘dog friendly‘ – there may be a more ‘elevated’ food selection than at many pubs around Dublin, but it’s the canine visitors (and their humans, often of a youngish variety) who are especially well catered-to. There is a vending machine with doggy treats and accessories, advantageously-placed water bowls and beds, plus plenty of little nooks and crannies for the more retiring pup. Given that PYE is from the same team behind The Barber’s Bar in Stoneybatter – a spot we love – this is no surprise. The scale, however is quite different.

PYE took over the former Eagle House pub in 2022, and converted it from a traditional pub into a series of drinking, dining and event spaces, both indoor and outdoor. It a sensible use of the space – a fair few of these more suburban pubs once served as drinking establishments, groceries, post offices and even morgues (often concurrently), but it’s difficult to make use of some of those massive buildings in anything close to their original 19th century layouts in a way that makes economic sense today. The renovation also included accessible toilets, something that is still not a given in every pub here, especially not those originally built in the 19th century.

Beer garden at PYEAnd while it may feel a bit less spontaneous than your typical Old Man Pub where you simply walk in and head to the bar to order (not in a queue, thank you – we don’t do that here), it’s a fair evolution of the pub concept – there was still plenty of socialising over drinks on our visit, plus some adorable dogs as a bonus. It stands in contrast to our experience at Token, which has very much of an Enforced Corporate Fun vibe, and while there are clearly similar events hosted at PYE, the ‘feel’ of the place was still, overall, ‘pubby’ versus ‘event venue.’

Although the aggressively-modern pink-and-green colour scheme may not be to every taste, the name hearkens back to a previous Dundrum business – the PYE electronics business that used to be near this part of town, so there is a nod to local history. The extensive food menu offers something for everyone, even those with allergies, and the drink selection is more than respectable: Kinnegar, Whiplash, Hopfully and Trouble are all well-represented, and there are other rotating indie choices as well, plus Guinness, Beamish and the like. There’s also some Japanese whiskey if that’s your preference.

Doggy wall at PYE - yes, very similar to its companion at The Barber's BarAnd while we are usually visiting Brickyard for their excellent beer selection and tasty food when down this way (though we fervently wish they also had a Northside outpost), PYE was well worth a side quest – we’d be in much more often if we were closer.

And while we can much more easily visit The Barber’s Bar when we need our Good Doggo fix, it’s nice to know we have options when in the wilds of South Dublin; PYE is certainly one to add to the Best Pubs for Dogs list.

Where: Main Street, Dundrum, D14 V9R3
Access from the city centre: Bus 14; Luas Green Line. You’re not walking unless you’re up for something close to 2 hours
Food: Everything from brunch to pizza, spice bags and snacks, with a welcome charcuterie board
Sport: All the big events, especially rugby; you are in South Dublin, after all…
TVs: Lots of screens, all around
Music: Party people in the house
Family-friendliness: Children welcome until 7 pm – there is a kids’ menu and many easy choices from the adult menus
Pub-crawl-ability: Low – Dundrum House is across the road, Brickyard is a shortish walk away, but it’s much more suburban out this way
Local sites of note: Dundrum Town Centre, Airfield Estate
Haunted: Might seem cursed to those allergic to colour and lights
Other notes: Many gluten-free options and step-free access
Socials: Instagram, Facebook, TikTok(!)

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Sin É

The stage at Sin ÉPart music venue, part dive bar, Sin É may also have something of a claim as one of Dublin’s oldest pub buildings. While originally built as a house in the 18th century, like many of its Ormond Quay neighbours it was converted into commercial use in the late 19th century. It’s been this particular bar for a decade, and while it’s better known as a late-night venue, it does open in the afternoon for a casual pint.

Taps at Sin ÉAnd while the formal stage at the back of the main floor makes it feel more venue than pub, it’s got a rather respectable beer lineup, including its own beer from Trouble, as well as the more-common Ambush. There is also a Kilkenny tap – it’s no longer so lesser-spotted around Dublin – and the other usual suspects.

Downstairs fireplace at Sin ÉBut downstairs, where there are more seating and stage options, is where there’s a bit of a slightly eerie historic atmosphere; the stone walls, low lighting, cool temperature and quiet (during the afternoon – not, of course, so much at night during a gig) do suggest, even if it’s ever-so-slightly, The Unseen. We couldn’t find any good ghost stories, but they do put on some good Halloween shows, so it’s worth keeping an eye out for that, even if the folklore isn’t forthcoming.

As with some of our other favourite dive bars-cum-venues around town, notably The Thomas House and Anseo, there’s a bit of a ‘feeling’ about the place, though we recognise that’s more likely down to the muted lights (not quite Frank Ryan’s-level dark, we should add) and darker colours, rather than anything properly spooky.

Outside Sin ÉWhile you’re unlikely to find us out and about at one of their 2 am events, in a city with an ever-shrinking number of creative and arts spaces for both emerging and established artists, it’s handy to have one with a real personality; being in a 300-ish year old building is a bonus.

It would be nice if the road outside and the street furniture were a bit less cursed…

Where: 14-15 Upper Ormond Quay, Dublin, IE Dublin 7
Access from the city centre: Buses 13, 27, 77A, 80, 150, 151, Luas Green Line or a (likely faster) 10 minute walk
Food: Used to be pizza, but not clear if it’s still a thing…
Sport: No
TVs: Not here
Music: All kinds of music, comedy and other gigs – check the socials
Family-friendliness: Leave the kids at home for this one
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Capel Street is just around the corner, with Pantibar, Slattery’s, The Black Sheep and many more, or head the other direction to Fidelity and Frank Ryan’s; Temple Bar and The Brazen Head are just across the river if you’re doing the tourist thing
Local sites of note: National Leprechaun Museum, Smock Alley Theatre, Four Courts, St Mary’s Abbey Chapter House
Haunted: Definitely has an atmosphere
Other notes: Basement toilets and fireplaces
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Bill Aherne’s

Exterior of Bill Aherne'sIn a small city like Dublin, it’s relatively easy to rally local beer nerds with a little bit of novelty – news travels quickly amongst our cohort – and whether it’s a new pub or, in this case, a bit of a throwback experience, it will be thoroughly investigated within days.

Work and travel have kept us away until now, but once the Bat Beer Signal went up from Donal, via his excellent Public House History, a visit to Bill Aherne’s was a must.

What and why, you may ask?

Well, it’s simple – Bill Aherne’s is the newish name for what was most recently Fitzgerald’s Bar, but this location has been a pub known by a variety of monikers since it was built in the late 19th century. Now under the ownership of Willie Aherne – grandson of Bill, and yes, the same Ahernes who own The Palace Bar, there’s a similar commitment to whiskey and keeping the historic interior in tip-top shape. But what made the beer nerds descend was not a name-change…rather, it’s the opportunity to try ‘warm Guinness‘ – well, sort of. Let’s explain.

One of the major reasons there’s vanishingly little cask ale in Ireland is that Guinness moved to tap-dispensed kegs in the 1950s and 60s; as the major supplier to essentially every pub in the country, they also upgraded (or, if you prefer, changed) the infrastructure in those pubs to cold rooms and keg dispense – and kept the competition out, while they were at it. And yes, this is wildly oversimplifying, but it was essentially the end for cask in most places here; you need to know where to go (and hope it’s on) if you’re a fan.

The tap boxAnd while there is no beer engine option here, there is a 1960s tap box on the bar, set up to dispense Guinness at something closer to room temperature. Naturally, we’ve all had to give it a go. So much of Guinness culture is the theatre around its presentation and serving – the two-part pour (don’t get us started on that, nor on Splitting the G, except as a parody concept), letting it settle, the branded glassware all play a part. And there’s a special glass involved here if you order a pint from the tap box – the extra gold on the lettering is a nice touch.

The back of Bill Aherne'sAnd does it taste markedly different from ‘cold’ Guinness? Well…perhaps a bit, though it’s also a similar experience if you’re slowly sipping, and the beer has warmed up while you’ve taken your time over it. But as a bit of a change from the standard Guinness pint (also, it should be noted, very much available here, along with Changing Times, though we’ve opined about that elsewhere – the Rye River tap looked to be getting some use as well on our visit), it’s good fun, and the pub has been nicely spruced up; though not hugely changed from its previous incarnation, it does seem a bit brighter and lighter. The back of the pub looks to be larger than it was before, with a small stage (there is regular live music). All told, it’s a very comfortable pub now, with some lovely snugs.

And there are (whiskey) casks as well…it would be delightful if the experiment with the ‘historic’ equipment also led to a cask option for at least one beer here.

We live in hope…

Where: 22 Aston Quay, Dublin 2, D02 FH28
Access from the city centre: In it – the Liffey is opposite the pub, Temple Bar is down the road, Trinity around the corner…
Food: Crisps
Sport: Nada
TVs: No
Music: Live trad and other gigs in evenings – check the socials
Family-friendliness: Spotted a few kids in snugs in the afternoon
Pub-crawl-ability: High – sister pub The Palace Bar, Cassidy’s, JR Mahon’s, O’Neill’s, Bowes, Tapped, Harty’s Bar, The Oval, Mulligans, The Flowing Tide, The Morris Bar & Piper’s Corner are all nearby
Local sites of note: National Wax Museum, Trinity College, Abbey Theatre, Irish Whiskey Museum, O’Connell Street
Haunted: No good ghost stories that we know of
Other notes: Basement toilets
Socials: Instagram