It’s September, and that means the Dublin Festival of History is nearly upon us; as ever, many wonderful events have sold out almost instantaneously, but there are more to explore. You can also create your own historic pub crawl – and maybe learn a little bit along the way.
For our purposes here, we aren’t looking for Dublin’s ‘oldest’ pub (we bang on enough about the bogus entries in the ‘oldest pub’ category across the country *cough* Sean’s Bar *cough*) or most literary pub, but rather, those with a reasonably legitimate historical claim to fame. Not of the ‘was once mentioned in Ulysses‘ or ‘Brendan Behan drank here’ sort, as we’d be here all week, but those with documented (or at least well-attested) historical connections. Given that the Wide Streets Commission knocked down much of medieval Dublin, we have no truly ‘old’ pubs (or even ‘old’ pubs that were once built as something else) to explore, so we’ll start off with pubs that have associations with the 1798 rebellion.
The Brazen Head and The Lord Edward both have arrays of 1898 memorabilia (although The Lord Edward is ‘only’ a late 19th century building, and feels much more like a 1960s pub than anything else), commemorating the centenary of the 1798 rebellion, though The Brazen Head goes a few steps further and claims – with at least some good evidence – that events were, to some extent, planned or discussed here – ditto Robert Emmet’s 1803 uprising. Indeed, we would love to see them lean more into this more interesting (and fact-based) history vs their entirely imaginary 1198 ‘founding.’ With so much real history – as well as a bit of related folklore – why not focus on that? (Yes, we know the ‘why’ is that many tourists are very willing to believe anything they’ve been told and it makes them feel good to see the ‘oldest fill-in-the-blank’ – it’s just a shame they are missing out on a much more interesting, if more complex, story). The Cat & Cage also claims a bit of 1798 action, as it was a postal stop during its time as a coaching inn; rebels seized a postal cart outside as a sign that the rebellion was on. We would still love to see a full historical survey of The Cat & Cage, as we suspect there may well be more going on there, archaeologically and archivally-speaking…and, frankly, we find it a much nicer pub than its city centre counterparts.
Moving on to pubs associated with the Fenian movement in the 1860s and 1880s, there are a few more takers – not particularly surprising, as so many Dublin pubs are late 19th century buildings at the earliest. The Bleeding Horse and The Long Hall (Cromien’s at the time) both trade on their associations to the movement without being entirely defined by them. Brogan’s (trading as Wrenn’s back then) is where the 1882 Phoenix Park assassinations were planned by the Invincibles; the event was organised just across the street from Dublin Castle, mere steps from the colonial establishment – whilst talk of a tunnel is likely no more than just that, the basement does flood from the old castle moat, as OG Underdog (RIP) regulars know all too well. The Hut also served as something of a Fenian meeting spot too, later in the 19th century, so it is said, though there’s little to tell the tale now amid the well-kept Victorian pub splendour.
A number of still-extant local pubs played roles in the Easter Rising and the War of Independence; The Portobello Bar (known as Davy’s) became part of the action, while The Oval was destroyed completely in 1916, and required years to rebuild. Cleary’s, meanwhile, was another meetup spot for Michael Collins and Harry Boland, among others, though Collins was also partial to The Palace Bar, and The Confession Box (previously The Maid of Erin) was another key locale for Volunteers. We highly recommend a viewing of this video featuring all-around legend Donal Fallon for more, and we always recommend his absolutely wonderful The Dublin Pub: A Social and Cultural History for further reading. We assume you’re all already listening to Three Castles Burning.
Finally, we’ll finish with something of an oddity, historically-speaking. As regulars know, most stories of secret tunnels or ‘ship’s timbers’ used to build pubs are Lies, and you should all pick up Historic Building Mythbusting by James Wright for more (or listen to us chat historic pub nonsense with James on the Beer Ladies Podcast). However, The Oak’s wooden panelling is said to have come from the RMS Mauretania, when its fittings were sold off in 1934. Is it entirely true?
Well, it makes a good story…and we’re willing to give this one a bit of credence. It looks the part, and the management doesn’t go out of its way to tell you about it.
And as mentioned at the start, there are plenty of local pubs with literary and journalistic associations, those with sporting links, musical legends and so on…just be wary of any advertising ‘early’ foundation dates or other overly-specific superlatives. A thoughtfully critical eye can be a fine companion to a nice pint, and a lovely way to begin a historic adventure.
We tend to avoid bigger crowds when out and about (and, frankly, we like to be home early – sleep is important!), but we recently made an exception to stop into
It certainly leans more ‘gastro’ than ‘pub,’ but the overarching feeling about the place is ‘
And while it may feel a bit less spontaneous than your typical
And while we are usually visiting
Part music venue, part dive bar,
And while the formal stage at the back of the main floor makes it feel more venue than pub, it’s got a rather respectable beer lineup, including its own beer from Trouble, as well as the more-common Ambush. There is also a Kilkenny tap – it’s no longer so lesser-spotted around Dublin – and the other usual suspects.
But downstairs, where there are more seating and stage options, is where there’s a bit of a slightly eerie historic atmosphere; the stone walls, low lighting, cool temperature and quiet (during the afternoon – not, of course, so much at night during a gig) do suggest, even if it’s ever-so-slightly, The Unseen. We couldn’t find any good ghost stories, but they do put on some good Halloween shows, so it’s worth keeping an eye out for that, even if the folklore isn’t forthcoming.
While you’re unlikely to find us out and about at one of their 2 am events, in a city with an ever-shrinking number of creative and arts spaces for both emerging and established artists, it’s handy to have one with a real personality; being in a 300-ish year old building is a bonus.
In a small city like Dublin, it’s relatively easy to rally local beer nerds with a little bit of novelty – news travels quickly amongst our cohort – and whether it’s a new pub or, in this case, a bit of a throwback experience, it will be thoroughly investigated within days.
And while there is no beer engine option here, there is a 1960s tap box on the bar, set up to dispense Guinness at something closer to room temperature. Naturally, we’ve all had to give it a go. So much of Guinness culture is the theatre around its presentation and serving – the two-part pour (don’t get us started on that, nor on Splitting the G, except as a parody concept), letting it settle, the branded glassware all play a part. And there’s a special glass involved here if you order a pint from the tap box – the extra gold on the lettering is a nice touch.
And does it taste markedly different from ‘cold’ Guinness? Well…perhaps a bit, though it’s also a similar experience if you’re slowly sipping, and the beer has warmed up while you’ve taken your time over it. But as a bit of a change from the standard Guinness pint (also, it should be noted, very much available here, along with Changing Times, though we’ve
This month’s Dublin pub round-up is one for which we’ve had more requests than just about any other topic – certainly, it out-ranks queries about basics like food (
Most of the more dog-friendly spots are outside the immediate city centre, which is hardly surprising, as most dog owners live at least a little bit further out. But Dublin is a city which has seen
Some other spots the dog-walker may want to keep an eye out for include
But there is no better neighbourhood for pints with pups than
In one of the longest-awaited (or, for the more cynical among you, most-doubted-to-ever-happen) Dublin pub re-openings,
Originally slated to open ‘for Paddy’s Day’ about 2 years ago, it’s finally been close enough to done to start getting customers in – just in time for the All-Ireland Final which saw Mayo
So what we do see now is by no means the finished product, but as a local resident, it was Important to go check out what was on offer, once it was possible to do so. Quinn’s is a very large building by local standards, and the new owners have divided up what was the ground-floor bar into a café – opening during the day for coffees, etc, and as a wine bar in the evenings – with the other side maintaining a more traditionally ‘pubby’ feel. This is probably a very sensible approach, especially for out-of-season operations, but it does make that ‘pub’ side seem a bit small (if comfortably furnished). The theme is, of course, GAA, and there will also be hotel rooms upstairs, all decorated in different county colours, so that continues throughout.
Perhaps most surprisingly – and this is a pleasant surprise – there’s even a local independent beer on offer. This is not a given at most of the more ‘sporty’ pubs in Dublin, so it was great to see a Whiplash tap, even if it wasn’t up and running yet on our visit. The Carlsberg, however, tasted just as fresh as it does in Copenhagen, so clearly, considerable work has gone into completely reworking the tap lines (and plumbing in general – no smells!). There is Beamish as well as Guinness, so if Cork are playing, their fans will be well-catered to.
Is it a pub, or is it a bar?
This Dame Street spot was formerly home to Berlin Bar, which was
And while it’s *slightly* confusing where you need to go to order your slice of Detroit-style pizza by Doom Slice as there is an indoor hatch that might or might not be serving, plus an outdoor one, it’s easily sorted out. It is quite a tasty slice, it must be said, and it’s one of the cheaper options for food and a pint in Dublin (without the Instagram-driven queue for Bambino – why stand outside when you can sit inside with your slice and beer)?
A quick entry, this week – perhaps fitting, as it’s a tiny pub, but one that’s right in the centre of things. Indeed, it would be hard for Peter’s Pub to be much more central – just off Stephen’s Green, and steps from the Gaiety Theatre, it occupies a busy corner-ish spot.
And there are some much-needed
It’s finally here!
And while it’s a different situation here, it’s still effectively impossible for a brewery to simply open a taproom; there’s a good recent discussion of the local state of play with Friend of the Blog Sarah (now ex-of Rye River Brewing, and off to new adventures) and Galway Bay Brewing’s Marco on
Most importantly, though, much of the
It’s Dublin pub round-up time again; this edition is in response to a frequently asked question we get on
For a less-formal event,
Finally, there are plenty of pubs and bars that have space for more casual get-togethers and events with a bit of advance notice: