Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Fallon’s (aka The Capstan Bar)

Outside Fallon'sDespite having ‘The Capstan Bar‘ spelled out in large letters on the side of the building, this pub is more commonly knowns as Fallon’s to locals. And while the ‘est 1619’ sign may hang above the entrance, the pub’s website is a bit more circumspect, only referencing ‘a legacy dating back to 1619,’ which, while still overstating the case, is made much less of a selling point than the entirely fakety-fake date The Brazen Head likes to claim, only a short walk away.

Inside Fallon'sIndeed, nothing in Fallon’s looks much older than the early 20th century, which makes sense – it was rebuilt in 1911 after a fire, and most records seem to indicate a firm late 19th century foundation for a pub on this specific spot, though there is evidence of the re-use of elements of earlier buildings. But this area – bordering The Liberties and The Coombe – had dozens of pubs (or, before that, pub-like businesses) in centuries prior, and ‘The Capstan‘ is a reference to the sailors and dock workers who would have frequented the area in the past. It’s sported the ‘Fallon’s‘ name since the 1970s; there is likely an entire thesis to be written on how and when Irish pubs have names more or less permanently assigned to them, and how those do still continue to evolve today. In short, there’s plenty of history in this area.

A Wicklow Wolf Elevation at Fallon'sBut back to Fallon’s – it’s wonderfully quiet (or, at least, was on our afternoon visit), and the snug at the front might be a good addition to our Best Pubs for Books roundup. There was a fairly even split between locals and well-behaved tourists on our visit, all enjoying the wooden floorboards and ceiling that offer something of an organic feel. There are independent locals beers on at reasonable prices, though most of the tourists were in for their ‘best Guinness,’ as per usual.

But if we were to recommend a ‘best way to enjoy’ Fallon’s, we’d suggest a browse at Marrowbone Books and a quiet pint after with your ‘new find’ – there’s no better way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

Where: 129 The Coombe, The Liberties, Dublin 8, D08 NP52
Access from the city centre: Buses 13, 14, 15, 15A, 15B, 16, 27, 68, 77A, 122, 150, 151 or 18ish minute walk
Food: Toasties, soup
Sport: Occasional big events
TVs: Small screen
Music: Blissfully quiet
Family-friendliness: A few kids having a weekend afternoon Coke & crisps on our visit
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Fourth Corner, Lucky’s, Lynott’s, Molly’s Bar, Drop Dead Twice, The Liberty Belle, Dudley’s, The Lord Edward, Arthur’s, Guinness Open Gate Brewery, Swift, The Brazen Head, The Christchurch…and many more
Local sites of note: St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Marsh’s Library, Chester Beatty, Dublin Castle, St Audoen’s Church, Christ Church Cathedral, Dublinia, Guinness Storehouse
Haunted: There’s plenty of good archaeology under these streets…
Other notes: While the toilets are on the main floor, they are tight squeezes
Socials: Instagram, Facebook, TikTok

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Brogan’s

Exterior of Brogan's by nightWe briefly name-checked Brogan’s in our roundup of the Best Pubs for History, but having recently had occasion to stop in on our way to a gig at the Olympia, its near neighbour, it was high time to expand upon that. Unlike some other pubs which trade on either imagined or exaggerated history, Brogan’s nearly does the opposite; there are many fascinating layers here that are barely touched upon in promotional material for its current incarnation.

Although it’s been Brogan’s since the early 1990s, the 4-story building at 75 Dame Street began life as a Georgian townhouse in the 1750s. It had a number of commercial uses, beginning later in the following century, finally becoming a pub in the late 19th century. This is perhaps when its most well-known Fenian connections date from: this is where the Invincibles, who met here regularly when it was known as Wrenn’s, planned the 1882 Phoenix Park assassinations. It was also a regular meeting spot for some key figures in Ireland’s independence struggle in the 1920s, or so the stories go (yes, despite being just opposite Dublin Castle, and no, we don’t believe there’s a tunnel – if nothing else, it would be constantly flooded).

Inside a crowded Brogan'sBut this pub was also an important spot for more recent social history; before becoming Brogan’s, it was The Viking Inn, one of Dublin’s first reasonably well-known gay bars. From 1979 until 1987, this was a true community meeting spot in a very different Ireland. Its proximity to the (also allegedly haunted – we’ll come back to this in a moment) Olympia Theatre didn’t hurt, either.

Stairs to nowhere, nowAnd local craft beer nerds may not find much to get excited about here nowadays (though there is a well-used Ambush tap – it just looks a bit lonely amongst all the Guinness memorabilia, unless you count the Beamish tap as ‘other’), the basement was the original home to Underdog, so once upon a time, there were more varied beer options here (if you didn’t mind your feet occasionally getting damp).

But Brogan’s also appeals to us as one of the few Dublin pubs to have a bit (emphasis on the ‘bit’) of ghostlore…it’s of the low-key poltergeist variety, with clinking glasses, footsteps and the odd slamming door. As we get closer into Spooky Season, and with so few good Haunted Pub stories in the neighbourhood, we’ll take it.

Bring on the ghosts!

Where: 75 Dame Street, Dublin
Access from the city centre: More or less in it
Food: Crisps, peanuts
Sport: All the usual big sports
TVs: Quite a few, not always on
Music: Very MOR on most of our visits
Family-friendliness: Not the most kid-friendly spot
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Porterhouse, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle, The Christchurch, The Brazen Head, Thomas Read’s, The Oak…and that’s just getting started (and avoiding most of Temple Bar)
Local sites of note: Olympia Theatre, Dublin Castle, Dublin City Hall, Chester Beatty Library, Christ Church Cathedral, Dublinia
Haunted: Knock once for yes?
Other notes: Although not on our Best Pubs for Books list, there are some books to borrow while you relax with a pint
Socials: Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Christchurch

Outside The ChristchurchIt’s finally here!

Yes, it’s been a long ‘two weeks’ since Dublin beer nerds were told The Christchurch would be opening, but at long last, it’s in business. There’s still a bit of work to be done – the kitchen isn’t yet up and running, and there are a few bits and pieces still being put in place – but the beers are pouring. Most are from Third Barrel, the local brewery who have taken over the pub, but like its predecessors in this spot, both The Christchurch Inn and The Beer Market, it’s not a taproom as such. This is both in terms of vibe – still very pubby – as well as on paper, For Reasons. There has been much recent attention on the licensing laws in the North, where Lidl has opened a pub to circumvent some of those restrictions, but it’s far from a ‘solved’ issue closer to home.

A pint at The ChristchurchAnd while it’s a different situation here, it’s still effectively impossible for a brewery to simply open a taproom; there’s a good recent discussion of the local state of play with Friend of the Blog Sarah (now ex-of Rye River Brewing, and off to new adventures) and Galway Bay Brewing’s Marco on First Draught, the excellent new beer podcast from Elizabeth Townsend of Keroo Brewing. And so The Christchurch is a pub owned by Third Barrel that happens to pour (mostly) Third Barrel beer – just as Rascals is (mostly) Rascals, and Fidelity is (mostly) Whiplash.

So while there may not be an enormous range of breweries on tap, the selection of beers the Third Barrel crew spun up for launch is a good summery selection (barring the imperial brown – perhaps we’ll check back in on that one when it’s not so hot out): a range of IPAs (not just hazy!) and lagers, a nitro red and a stout, plus some of the usual core range like BOOM and Shut Up Juice, mixed in with a few guest taps.

A quiet corner at The ChristchurchMost importantly, though, much of the Underdog crew turned out for the soft launch; the gang was very much back together to support the new venture, and to cheer the return of Maura behind the bar. There’s been more than a lick of paint applied to the place, and the new colours are dark and soothing around the main bar, with more splashes of brighter hues toward the front upstairs and downstairs spaces – the always-odd layout remains, but it does seem a much better use of the space than in previous incarnations. A good time was had by all. For the near term, The Christchurch will be open Wednesday-Sunday, so plan accordingly – we’ll update this bit when the kitchen opens.

Finally (for now), calling one the new beers ‘Two More Weeks!‘ is absolute perfection. Well played. We’ll be back!

Where: 13 High St, Merchants Quay, Dublin 8, D08 K09
Access from the city centre: Buses 27, 77A, 150, 151, 11-ish minute walk
Food: Coming soon
Sport: Nah
TVs: Only the beer lineup onscreen at the moment
Music: Chill background tunes
Family-friendliness: Fine to pop in after Dublinia during the usual hours
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle, Thomas Read’s/The Oak are all more or less in one direction, with The Thomas House, Guinness Open Gate, Swift, Lynott’s and other Liberties spots; The Brazen Head is also a short walk away
Haunted: Collaborative ghost story, anyone?
Local sites of note: Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen’s Church, Dublin Castle, Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre
Other notes: One of a very few Dublin venues on Untappd
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Lynott’s

A pint of Rye River looking toward the bar at Lynott'sYes, it’s yet another new pub this week, replacing one more short-lived but much-loved Dublin spot – we venture back to The Liberties to bid farewell to All My Friends, and to say hello to Lynott’s.

We never had a chance to write up All My Friends in its relatively short tenure, but we always heard good things about the LGBTQ+-friendly space* that was known as a great spot for local artists and other creatives to showcase their work. It was a relatively quick turnaround (by local standards) for the pivot to Lynott’s – yes, it namechecks one of Dublin’s most famous sons, but it also feels very much like a traditional neighbourhood pub that’s been there for ages.

A portrait of a horse and a pint at Lynott'sIndeed, it seems to have hit the sweet spot between newly-opened Old Man Pub and modern-day venue for music of all sorts, with more comfortable and varied seating than you might get in a pub that’s been going for 50 or 100 years. The wood isn’t all dark, and the colours are a bit brighter, with a small stage near the front for the regularly-planned tunes. There is a mix of old-school horse racing-inspired art and a fair few portraits of Phil himself, many by local artists.

Beer-wise, it’s mostly the usual suspects, but we were pleased to see that in addition to a Rye River tap, there is now also one for Trouble, so local independent beer is getting a look-in (plus some cocktails). With so many pubs in such a small area, it’s hard not to feel spoiled for choice in The Liberties, so it’s important that pubs here do have their own distinctive feel and offering. There’s likely a bit of settling in yet to be done here (food is still on its way, as of this writing), but it’s clear there’s an emphasis on supporting local musicians, so that’s a nice hook (see what we did there?).

A cosy seating area at Lynott'sAnd while we couldn’t find any direct connection between Phil Lynott and pubs in this part of town – it would be a bit of a walk to The Long Hall, where he famously filmed the video for Old Town, or his childhood home in Crumlin – it seems the kind of spot he’d have enjoyed. As to whether we’re pronouncing it the way he did or the way most people seem to, the jury’s out…we heard both versions whilst out and about.

We’ll need to revisit once the food is A Thing, but again, given so many pubs in the area, it’s easy to put together a nice Liberties pub crawl.

Where: 61-63 Meath St, The Liberties, Dublin 8, D08 H2NE
Access from the city centre: Buses C4, G1/G2, 13, 23, 24, 27, 56A, 73, 77A, 80, 150, 15ish minute walk
Food: Coming soon
Sport: Horse racing, football, rugby (not just men’s, which was nice), etc
TVs: All around
Music: Regular live music – check the socials
Family-friendliness: A fair few kids in during the afternoon
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Lucky’s, Drop Dead Twice, Dudley’s, Arthur’s, Swift, Love Tempo (still closed, post-fire, as of this writing), Guinness Open Gate Brewery, The Thomas House, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle and Thomas Read’s/The Oak are all within a short walk; The Brazen Head is also not far, if you’re feeling touristy
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen’s Church
Haunted: The Liberties is crying out for more pub ghost stories – someone supply some!
Other notes: There’s a lot of interesting history on Meath Street, if you know where to look
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

*FWIW, we wouldn’t go anywhere that wasn’t LGBTQ+-friendly, but obviously, some pubs are more specifically aimed at the community than others…something that probably needs its own list at some point.

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Drop Dead Twice

Outside Drop Dead TwiceWhat is it with certain parts of Dublin and lovely places Going On Fire?

Originally opened in 2017, Drop Dead Twice was known for its good beer, excellent cocktails, LGBTQ+ events and dog friendliness. But then, like a number of nearby businesses before and since (notably Love Tempo, just a short walk away), Drop Dead Twice had a damaging fire back in 2022. And while it’s not quite back at full strength – food and bigger events are still to come – happily, the pub has now reopened.

A pint at Drop Dead Twice with new wall art. You heard it, right?The ‘bumblebee’ yellow-and-black paint job outside has been replaced with a more plain black exterior, though still with yellow lettering, but it looks ever-so-slightly more sombre (or, perhaps, sophisticated?). Inside, it’s still got a bit of an under-construction feel, with the sense that more decoration is coming, but what’s there now is a mix of darker hues of blue, black and red, and to good effect. The stage area toward the rear looks like it will soon be back in action, and there is a comfortable mix of different seating options.

The cocktails have returned, and beer-wise, there were not one, but two Rollover taps, representing Whiplash, as well as other local faves like Ambush. Dublin Bay IPA from Hopkins & Hopkins is less-often seen on tap around town, so that was a nice bonus, and there were also Kilkenny and Harp options from the ‘macro legacy’ selection box.

We’ll need to get back to visit again once it’s fully back in action, but indications so far are positive – lovely staff, a nice beer selection and a lively vibe. Let’s hope for no more conflagrations!

The bar at Drop Dead TwiceWhere: 18/19 Francis St, The Liberties, Dublin, D08 EK06
Access from the city centre: Buses C4, G1/G2, 13, 23, 24, 27, 56A, 73, 77A, 80, 150, 15ish minute walk
Food: Not back yet, but stay tuned
Sport: More drag than sport
TVs: We missed them, if they were there!
Music: Lots of genres and live shows – watch the socials
Family-friendliness: More of a grownup vibe
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Lucky’s, Dudley’s, Arthur’s, Swift, Love Tempo (still closed after a *different* fire, as of this writing), Guinness Open Gate Brewery, The Thomas House, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle and Thomas Read’s/The Oak are all within a short walk; The Brazen Head is also not far, if you fancy paying more
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen’s Church
Haunted: There is still a new-carpentry-and-paint feel – does that count?
Other notes: Very pet-friendly
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Lucky’s

Lucky's and a screenWe are back in action this week, now that the Paddy’s Day crowds have moved on, and, as so often, we find ourselves in The Liberties. We’re visiting Lucky’s, a pub we’ve frequently stopped in during the Libertine Market Crawl (although they are no longer on the current route), but we have not really had time to relax there.

The beer garden at Lucky'sWith one recent glorious afternoon of sun, however, making the most of it was a moral imperative – and so, we repaired to Lucky’s. The main pull was their large and well-appointed beer garden to the rear of the pub; it’s one of a very few in Dublin that makes an effort to separate out the non-smoking bit of the outdoor area to a certain extent, which is very much appreciated.

The bar at Lucky'sAs a sister bar to The Circular, Lucky’s also serves Coke Lane Pizza from the late afternoons onward, and many of our fellow sun-seekers in the beer garden were waiting impatiently for it to open – it is, it must be said, quite tasty pizza. While on this occasion most people stayed outside, owing to the fine weather, it should be noted that the interior of Lucky’s is also very comfortable: no, it’s not got Old Man Pub fittings, but it’s nice to have a brighter spot on occasion (yes, grey counts as ‘brighter’ compared to many places), and there’s a lot of great art by local artists all around the pub. Also, COAT HOOKS.

A Rollover by Whiplash at Lucky'sBeer-wise, there’s a nice, rotating mix of local independent options from Whiplash, Rascals and Hopfully (among others recently on tap), along with the usual Guinness; bottles of flavoured cider seemed to be the thing the Young People were going for. Rather unusually, there’s also Hoegaarden, plus a range of cocktails and non-alcoholic options.

One of the reasons we so often end up in The Liberties is the sheer range of pubs on offer; although Lucky’s may cater to a younger crowd (broadly speaking), we found it a great spot to soak up a bit of sun on a weekend afternoon, and it made for an easy hop over to Dudley’s, one of our more usual haunts.

Yes, we need to make a return trip for the pizza, but that’s no bad thing, once we get more consistent sunny weather…fingers crossed. Lucky’s is a worthy addition to our list of Dublin’s best pubs for sunny weather.

Where: 78 Meath St, The Liberties, Dublin 8, D08 A318
Access from the city centre: Buses C4, G1/G2, 13, 23, 24, 27, 56A, 73, 77A, 80, 150, 15ish minute walk
Food: Coke Lane Pizza
Sport: Major sport on (rugby, Premier League, etc), but more musical than sporty
TVs: A few here and there, even outside
Music: Music for cool people – there’s also a DJ booth
Family-friendliness: Fine in the afternoon/early evening
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Dudley’s, Arthur’s, Swift, Love Tempo (still closed after a fire, as of this writing), Guinness Open Gate Brewery, Drop Dead Twice (just reopened after a fire), The Thomas House, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle and The Beer Temple/The Oak are all within a short walk; The Brazen Head is also not far, if you fancy paying more
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen’s Church
Haunted: The Liberties should have plenty of ghosts. But Lucky’s? No sign!
Other notes: Very pet-friendly
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Thomas House

Exterior of The Thomas HouseIt’s hard to beat The Liberties for a Dublin pub crawl, since there is a pub of absolutely every sort within a very small radius – everything from old-school Old Man Pubs to pricey tourist hotspots (several, in fact), with everything else in between. We have been remiss thus far in not mentioning this week’s pub, since it’s a classic of the dive bar genre – and so, to The Thomas House.

From the Sailor Jerry tattoo-inspired exterior decoration to the dark-but-welcoming interior stuffed full of music memorabilia, a step into The Thomas House is immediately an entry into something of an alternative universe: part music venue, part regulars’ pub, but a welcoming, inclusive space that seems to recognise that everyone has their own favourite obscure acts, and that sharing the love over some pints is a lot more fun than gatekeeping that kind of knowledge. And the pints are very affordable – any tourist still smarting after a trip to The Brazen Head should stop in for a much-more-wallet-friendly (and well-kept) Beamish or Ambush (there is, of course, Guinness as well, plus the lesser-spotted but more-frequently-appearing-of-late Kilkenny).

Pretzels at The Thomas House

There are soft pretzels – as we’ve complained before, both here and elsewhere, a rarity around these parts – and while they aren’t as fancy as those at the nearby Guinness Open Gate, they are cheap and cheerful. Perhaps one of the most compelling sights at The Thomas House is the fish tank…there’s something oddly soothing about watching its inhabitants swim around in the near-darkness.

And although this is most definitely a nighttime spot – no afternoon pints here – it’s an ideal location to stop in for a more reasonably-priced pint before heading to a show at Vicar Street, or as part of a longer wander up or down Thomas Street. And there’s something of a nice sense of a continuous practice there: while the buildings in the vicinity are largely 19th century (with some surprising outliers), Thomas Street has been a busy commercial thoroughfare since at least the medieval period, and if you look around, you can still see some of that history in street layouts and names. There may not be a spurious claim to being an ancient hostelry at The Thomas House, but stopping in here for a few drinks is very much carrying on a centuries-long tradition for this area, so consider it something of an exercise in exploring the past through the present.

Fish in a tank at The Thomas HouseFinally, we’re left to ponder why it seems that Dublin’s dive bars (see also: Anseo) have more interesting beer selections than many of their more mainstream, city centre counterparts do nowadays…answers on a postcard!

Where: 86 Thomas St, The Liberties, Dublin
Access from the city centre: Buses C4, G1/G2, 13, 23, 24, 27, 56A, 73, 77A, 80, 150, 15ish minute walk
Food: Soft pretzels, crisps
Sport: Music >> sport here
TVs: Didn’t see any, but it *is* dark (just not Frank Ryan’s-level dark)
Music: Punk, rockabilly, reggae, ska, metal…you name it
Family-friendliness: Not for the small ones
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Dudley’s, Arthur’s, Swift, Love Tempo, Guinness Open Gate Brewery, The Christchurch Inn, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle and The Beer Temple/The Oak are all within a short walk; The Brazen Head is also not far, if you fancy paying more
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen’s Church
Haunted: Fish ghosts?
Other notes: Keep an eye out for surprise music royalty of all descriptions
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Molly’s Bar

Outside Molly's Bar: a blue exteriorIt’s been a minute since we’ve been to an entirely new pub, so it was good fun to make it in to Molly’s Bar in its first weekend of operation. After the spate of Galway Bay pub sell-offs over the past year, with very hit and miss results in their new incarnations, it was something of a surprise to see a new location popping up here in Dublin. Without getting into the complicated machinations behind the scenes in terms of the ownership structure of the various different Galway Bay pubs, it seems that things are sorted out in some fashion, so this is good news.

A pint and a candle at Molly's BarWhile much of The Liberties is blessed with Georgian and Victorian architecture, the building housing Molly’s Bar is relatively new, and not as characterful as many of its neighbours. The exterior is giving ‘breezeblock TARDIS’ in its current deep blue – quite a change from the bright pink everywhere when this was drag bar Doll Society, now decamped (well, ‘relocated’ is more apt here) to a spot inside Hyde, nearer Grafton Street. But inside, while it still has a bit of ‘new paint smell,’ the darker greens and woody tones are cosy, and the candles give a welcoming glow.

A charcuterie board at Molly's BarThe best news for beer fans is that unlike several of the ex-Galway Bay pubs, we have their core lineup, and there will be other guest beers as well in the future. But you can also bring your Guinness nerds and other macro-beer friends here – they are by no means left out, and there are cocktails as well. On our visit, everything was lovely and fresh (as you might expect) – the Lush and Full Sail were both in excellent form. Food, too, was more varied than the standard menu, or else it’s changed again – either way, the addition of the charcuterie board was most welcome, and the halloumi fries are as good as ever.

It’s still early days, so they are still getting some final touches in place, but the staff are friendly and attentive, and keen to hear feedback; it’s a promising start indeed.

Where: 101 Francis St, The Liberties, Dublin 8, D08 Y70F
Access from the city centre: Buses 9, 13, 16, 27, 49, 54A, 68, 77A, 83, 122, 123, 151, 17-ish minute walk
Food: Galway Bay menu with charcuterie board
Sport: Not typical in Galway Bay joints
TVs: No TVs
Music: Not as fabulous as in the Doll Society days, but good fun
Family-friendliness: Always easy to bring a kid to a Galway Bay pub
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Jackie’s, The Liberty Belle, Dudley’s, Love Tempo, Guinness Open Gate Brewery, The Thomas House, Swift, Arthur’s, The Christchurch Inn, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle…the list goes on
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Teeling’s Distillery, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen’s Church
Haunted: The old pink paint can’t be completely hidden in the toilets…there’s probably glitter, too
Other notes: There is a covered outdoor/smoking section hidden away if you keep poking around
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Brazen Head

Spooky decor inside The Brazen HeadIt’s properly Halloween season, and that means we need to take in a pub with a better ghostlore pedigree…even if its other, more, er, brazen claims don’t really hold up. And so, to The Brazen Head. We’ll get the negatives out of the way first, because there is a properly historic pub hidden under here, and a surprisingly decent beer selection for such a touristy spot, but we’ll lead with that point – it is never, ever, not packed with tourists. Now, this is no bad thing from a business perspective, especially with how difficult it is to keep a hospitality business going (not that it’s been going since ‘1189,’ but we’ll come back to that) – fair play to the management for finding what works to bring in a steady stream of paying visitors. And no shade to those visitors themselves; I’ve been one of them, though it probably says something that I certainly stopped in The Brazen Head more frequently as a tourist versus once we moved to Dublin. On the one hand, it’s simply not that close to home, so it would never be my local, but really, it’s that the crush of tourists mean that it’s most frequently crowded and, well, loud; not really a spot to linger over a book with a pint. The atmosphere can feel much more ‘theme park’ than ‘pub,’ which is a reasonable thing if you’re on holiday, but I find it a lot less diverting in the everyday.

Outside The Brazen Head 'since 1189'And so to the second issue – is it ‘Ireland’s oldest pub,’ here ‘since 1189?’ LOL, no. While Liam has done an excellent job of unpacking its more likely history, I’ll summarize a few points, though his work on The Brazen Head (and, really, everything to do with Irish beer history) is very much recommended reading. First, while the pub does sprawl over a few buildings, there’s most likely nothing here older than the 18th century, and much that is more recent.

Are there parts of the pub that ‘feel’ a bit more like a coaching inn? Sure! Like a medieval tavern? Not remotely, we simply don’t have any in Dublin, and, as ever, we can at least partially blame the Wide Streets Commission. What is perhaps a more interesting question is ‘when did The Brazen Head begin marketing itself this way?’ Presumably before the ersatz crenelations at the front (to be fair, while they look riduclous from across the road, they do make for a nice covered outdoor space, and a non-smoking one to boot, though the smoke/vape ick can drift over from the nearby covered smoking porch) were added; I’ve found references along these lines as far back as the 1960s, whereas press mentions in the late 19th century stuck to a more believable ‘oldest established hotel in the city’ – even if the name has possibly attached itself to a number of different local businesses since, say, the 18th century, there’s at least a bit of a throughline.

In a crowded part of The Brazen Head

And this is the bit about the fake history that makes it especially annoying – first, that the various claims are repeated absolutely everywhere without the slightest bit of interrogation, but more than that, it obscures the actually very interesting – and more validated – history of The Brazen Head. There is a genuine association with Robert Emmet, and there are a number of literary connections as well. Obviously, this being a pub in Dublin, Brendan Behan made an appearance, and there’s the requisite Ulysses mention; it would be lovely to hear more about these aspects of the pub’s history instead of an entirely imaginary ancient foundation. That’s not to say that there were not previous buildings on the site, nor, indeed, that Winetavern Street does not come by its name honestly as having a long history of domestic brewing and, later, inn- and tavern-like business; there’s a lot of quite interesting archaeology nearby, as this was very close to the Viking site at Wood Quay. But also given its proximity to the Liffey, it’s not 100% clear that there *was* solid ground here prior to the 13th century – it may have been under water in ‘1189.’ One presumes that there was a committee somewhere that decided ‘1189’ was a precise-yet-vague enough date to be applied wherever a deep lineage is required – see also the similar-vintage Ye Old Trip to Jerusalem on the Neighbouring Island (and, of course, listen to our Beer Ladies Podcast episode on Historic Building Mythbusting with Dr. James Wright).

A glass of Rye River Upstream Pale Ale in the beer gardenHappily – at least for a ghostlore collector like me – there are ghost stories, too – Emmet and his executioner are both meant to appear at various spots in the pub, though as ever with this kind of story, it’s not clear how we identify said executioner; at least Robert Emmet has his death mask in various places, including a short walk away at Arthur’s, close to the spot of his execution.

It’s not as though Dublin is short of pubs (though we know it’s a hard time for all hospitality businesses), and so it’s not necessarily a terrible thing that we seem to have given one over entirely to tourism. That said, there are relatively few pubs here that do date back to the 18th century – I’m not really willing to go further back than that on the available evidence, but hey, more than happy to be surprised – and it would be a nice thing to see that history more celebrated. The Gravediggers does a great job of appealing to tourists and locals alike, though that’s almost certainly helped by its location away from the immediate city centre, but they also celebrate their pub’s history, recently hosting an event as part of the Dublin Festival of History. More of this, please!

But The Brazen Head does have one up on The Gravediggers for me from a beer selection point of view – they always have some reliable Rye River taps – and that is also something to be celebrated, especially if overseas visitors may stumble across a local, independently-produced beer. And it’s well-located to kick off a pub crawl into The Liberties…get your tourist TikTok done, then head down Thomas Street.

But in any event, I’m willing to wager The Cat & Cage is older…and less full of tourists! If only we could get some details about their ghost story…

Where: 20 Lower Bridge St, Usher’s Quay, Dublin, D08 WC64
Access from the city centre: Buses 13. 26, 27, 37, 70, 77A, 83, 83A, 123, 145, 151, C1, C2, C3
Food: Tourist pub grub
Sport: All the usual big events are shown
TVs: Inside and outside
Music: Generic playlist by day, live sessions by night
Family-friendliness: A fair few jet-lagged kids always seem to be sitting outside looking grumpy
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle, The Beer Temple/The Oak are all more or less in one direction, with The Thomas House, Love Tempo, Dudley’s, Swift, Arthur’s, Guinness Open Gate Brewery and other Liberties spots in the other
Local sites of note: Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen’s Church, St Michan’s Church, Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street
Haunted: FINALLY. Proper ghostlore; more, please!
Other notes: Temple Bar prices outside Temple Bar
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Guinness Open Gate Brewery

A beer, pretzel and mac & cheese balls at the Open Gate Brewery

While it’s less of a ‘pub,’ the Guinness Open Gate Brewery re-opened this summer, and it’s a nice alternative for out-of-town visitors to Dublin who don’t want to pay for do the full Guinness Storehouse ‘brand experience,’ but still want to say they’ve been to the ‘Home of Guinness.’ But it does have a few attractions for locals, too – and it’s a very central spot to kick off a Liberties pub crawl, if that’s your inclination, but the real drawl for me is less the beer, which we’ll come on to in a moment, and more the fantastic nibbles: this is one of the only places in town you can consistently get a pretzel with a beer, and although it’s not an inexpensive one, it’s large, and well worth seeking out.

Regular readers will know I have a Grand Unified Theory about how pubs around the world should offer warm, soft pretzels with beer cheese as a snack, and it’s something we simply don’t have here in Ireland, beyond one-off Oktoberfest events – except at the Open Gate. The other menu items are equally good, and if you’re wondering how a cookie might be worth €10, if you pair it with the Dublin Porter, it’s an absolute treat – and still cheaper than a pint of Guinness in some spots in Temple Bar. The lesson here is that you may have come to try a few beers, but leave room for the food, too.

Punters at the Open GateFor anyone used to a reasonably trendy brewery taproom, the recent glow-up at the Open Gate hits all the marks – sleek-looking taps, photography-friendly spaces and industrial chic, though you do now get a better view of the brewing operations behind the glass wall. That said, this isn’t the sort of spot you’ll find 30 rotating taps; it’s still your core Guinness range, with a few more experimental options added on, though there are also legacy brands like Macardles in bottles, and it’s one of the handful of places you can consistently get Guinness Foreign Extra Stout. You won’t be putting a picture of your face in your pint, for an additional fee, as you can at the Storehouse, but that’s no great loss.

The pleasing 'railway' sign at the Open Gate BreweryPerhaps my favourite thing about the Open Gate, however, is less about the beer and pretzels – though I love the Dublin Porter, and would happily drink it much more frequently were it available elsewhere around town – it’s the sign. Rather than the more common neon chalk or paint-pen listing of what’s on tap, there’s an old-school, railway station-style flipboard that resets periodically, and it is incredibly satisfying to watch and listen to. And despite being someone who once spent far too long each week in Philadelphia’s 30th Street Station, I miss the old flipboard – it’s lovely to see that kind of retro tech employed in an engaging way (even if the taps don’t change quite as frequently as trains might be expected to go).

So, while it may be just as much on the tourist trail as its neighbour, the Guinness Storehouse, it’s a more chilled-out experience than trying to grab a pint in the Gravity Bar…and the selection is usually much more interesting.

And again, the pretzels are the real deal – if you’re a local and you ‘have to’ take a friend who is visiting Dublin for the first time, go to the Open Gate hungry – take one for the team!

Where: 53 James St, St. James’s Gate, Dublin 8
Access from the city centre: Buses 13, 27, 49, 54A, 77A, 123, 150, 151, G1, G2, 15-ish minute walk
Food: Small plates, including PRETZELS
Sport: Not here
TVs: No
Music: Fairly generic playlist, but likely depends on the night
Family-friendliness: No under-18s
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Arthur’s is steps away, with Dudley’s, Love Tempo, The Thomas House, The Christchurch Inn, Molly’s Bar, Swift, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle and The Beer Temple/The Oak all within a short walk; The Brazen Head is also a bit further away
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen’s Church
Haunted: Something something big brand capitalism, maybe? The only ‘vibes’ are from Instagram feature walls, so perhaps spooky if that’s not your thing
Other notes: The beer garden is a great spot on a sunny day (but also well-covered – this is Ireland, after all)
Socials: Instagram