Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Merry Cobbler

Exterior of The Merry CobblerThis week, we make a trip not only south of the Liffey, but nearly into the heart of Dublin 4, with a visit to The Merry Cobbler.

While we are now happily Northside people, when we first moved to Dublin, we were initially deposited nearby – this area is, at least as stereotypes go, a land of rugby and Range Rovers, D4 accents and posh schools (though it is much more diverse than that generalisation would have one believe). The nearby Aviva Stadium can, at times, feel a world away from our now-neighbour, Croke Park, despite the venues being only a few kilometres apart. Irish pubs, though, can feel like great equalisers, and The Merry Cobbler is no exception.

A Wicklow Wolf at The Merry CobblerIt’s very much a neighbourhood spot, welcoming local families, game day regulars and guests – you can even stay in the pub. And while its renovation of the past decade means it’s got a bit more polished wood and stained glass than many of its counterparts on the other side of the river, it never feels snobby. There are some lovely snugs – again, more stained glass – and various different spaces to spread out around this large pub. Local independent beers are well-represented (from Trouble and Wicklow Wolf on this most recent visit, though we’ve also seen Hope in the past), but this is another spot where the stout enthusiast can do the full GuinnessBeamishMurphy’s taste test.

There’s a lovely fireplace that’s worth a visit in the colder months, and a few outdoor seats next to the yarn-bombed bollards for fine weather – we will admit there’s much less traffic than we tend to get near some of our closer pubs that have Pavement Pints options.

Inside The Merry CobblerWe will eventually do a ‘Best Pubs for the Aviva’ roundup to complement our ‘Best Pubs for Croke Park‘ summary, but in the meantime, this is one to add to that list.

Where: 78-82 Irishtown Rd, Dublin 4
Access from the city centre: Buses C1, C2; Dart to Lansdowne Road; 40-ish minute walk
Food: Pub grub, pizza, weekend brunch and tasty desserts
Sport: Rugby (you are on the southside, after all), football…all the big sports
TVs: Many screens all around
Music: MOR pop hits of the 80s and 90s on our visit
Family-friendliness: Very family-friendly indeed
Pub-crawl-ability: Low-medium – The Vintage Inn and Irishtown House are very close, with The Oarsman and The Yacht Tavern up the road in Ringsend; The Old Spot and The Bath Pub are not too terribly far. While BrewDog is close as the crow files, actually getting there can be a challenge from here
Local sites of note: Aviva Stadium, Ringsend Park, Irishtown Stadium, Seán Moore Park (for Poolbeg Parkrun – you can get your New Year’s Day run in here), Poolbeg Chimneys, Sandymount Strand
Haunted: The church just steps away always looks a bit spooky
Other notes: Dogs welcome; main floor toilets but a few areas of differing floor heights around the pub
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Taphouse

Exterior of TaphouseWhile we are patiently waiting for a new, independent-beer-focused pub to open in the near future (no pressure, lads!) here in Dublin, we did something unusual for us, and headed not just south of the Liffey, but even further down the Luas into the leafy environs of Ranelagh. But it was, as it turns out, a pleasant experience.

Our destination pub, Taphouse, is one last visited pre-Covid, possibly for a work event, and so the memory was a bit hazy. There were faint recollections of a reasonably-interesting beer selection, but not much more than that. We also had not made it back as it we are usually in the company of offspring when heading in this general direction, and had been given to understand that it was not especially welcoming to the youth. On the contrary, though – it was very laid-back indeed, at least of a weekend afternoon. And, happily, the beer selection was more than respectable for Dublin. We are always excited to see Rascals Sidekick on, but there were also options from Hope, Wicklow Wolf, Whiplash, Hopfully and Kinnegar, along with the usual Guinness and Beamish. By local standards at the moment, this is pretty exciting.

A pint of Whiplash with books behindThere was a strong cocktail game as well, and while we didn’t have time to sample the food, it did look rather more interesting than many other pub options…perhaps something we’ll revisit to consider adding to the Best Pubs for Food list in future. The décor is ‘fancy pub’ – dark wood, decorative ceilings and lots of un-sorted books that one presumes have come from house clear-outs, though that said, there are a few shelves worth digging into more deeply (and we are very much in favour of ‘more books’ as a pub feature, even if the initial impulse was purely window-dressing).

The upstairs sun deck (beer garden?) at TaphouseUpstairs there is a glorious sun deck, so rather than Pavement Pints, it’s a literally more elevated experience.

And yet, while some may shout ‘notions!’ at Taphouse for being a bit design-led, the food and drink options hold their own, and it still feels very much like a neighbourhood pub. There was a good mix of punters of all ages on our visit, from solo pint-with-a-book enthusiasts to groups getting a bit of sun with their Sunday roasts.

We won’t wait so long before our next visit.

Where: 60 Ranelagh, Dublin 6, D06 C9C6
Access from the city centre: Luas Green Line, buses 11,14, 15, 15B, 80, E1, E2; 30ish minute walk
Food: Small plates, Sunday roast, a cheese board (something not enough restaurants, much less pubs, do here)
Sport: The usual suspects
TVs: All over the place, though some areas are quieter than others
Music: Indie tunes, sport commentary
Family-friendliness: A fair few well-behaved kids at Sunday lunchtime, but likely more of a grown-up vibe
Pub-crawl-ability: Low-medium: Smyth’s Pub, The Hill or a walk to Kodiak in Rathmines
Local sites of note: Richard Crosbie monument, Stella Cinema
Haunted: Perhaps some haunted books? The Taphouse Middoth?
Other notes: Very dog-friendly; karaoke can happen
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Lynott’s

A pint of Rye River looking toward the bar at Lynott'sYes, it’s yet another new pub this week, replacing one more short-lived but much-loved Dublin spot – we venture back to The Liberties to bid farewell to All My Friends, and to say hello to Lynott’s.

We never had a chance to write up All My Friends in its relatively short tenure, but we always heard good things about the LGBTQ+-friendly space* that was known as a great spot for local artists and other creatives to showcase their work. It was a relatively quick turnaround (by local standards) for the pivot to Lynott’s – yes, it namechecks one of Dublin’s most famous sons, but it also feels very much like a traditional neighbourhood pub that’s been there for ages.

A portrait of a horse and a pint at Lynott'sIndeed, it seems to have hit the sweet spot between newly-opened Old Man Pub and modern-day venue for music of all sorts, with more comfortable and varied seating than you might get in a pub that’s been going for 50 or 100 years. The wood isn’t all dark, and the colours are a bit brighter, with a small stage near the front for the regularly-planned tunes. There is a mix of old-school horse racing-inspired art and a fair few portraits of Phil himself, many by local artists.

Beer-wise, it’s mostly the usual suspects, but we were pleased to see that in addition to a Rye River tap, there is now also one for Trouble, so local independent beer is getting a look-in (plus some cocktails). With so many pubs in such a small area, it’s hard not to feel spoiled for choice in The Liberties, so it’s important that pubs here do have their own distinctive feel and offering. There’s likely a bit of settling in yet to be done here (food is still on its way, as of this writing), but it’s clear there’s an emphasis on supporting local musicians, so that’s a nice hook (see what we did there?).

A cosy seating area at Lynott'sAnd while we couldn’t find any direct connection between Phil Lynott and pubs in this part of town – it would be a bit of a walk to The Long Hall, where he famously filmed the video for Old Town, or his childhood home in Cabra – it seems the kind of spot he’d have enjoyed. As to whether we’re pronouncing it the way he did or the way most people seem to, the jury’s out…we heard both versions whilst out and about.

We’ll need to revisit once the food is A Thing, but again, given so many pubs in the area, it’s easy to put together a nice Liberties pub crawl.

Where: 61-63 Meath St, The Liberties, Dublin 8, D08 H2NE
Access from the city centre: Buses C4, G1/G2, 13, 23, 24, 27, 56A, 73, 77A, 80, 150, 15ish minute walk
Food: Coming soon
Sport: Horse racing, football, rugby (not just men’s, which was nice), etc
TVs: All around
Music: Regular live music – check the socials
Family-friendliness: A fair few kids in during the afternoon
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Lucky’s, Drop Dead Twice, Dudley’s, Arthur’s, Swift, Love Tempo (still closed, post-fire, as of this writing), Guinness Open Gate Brewery, The Thomas House, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle and Thomas Read’s/The Oak are all within a short walk; The Brazen Head is also not far, if you’re feeling touristy
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen’s Church
Haunted: The Liberties is crying out for more pub ghost stories – someone supply some!
Other notes: There’s a lot of interesting history on Meath Street, if you know where to look
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

*FWIW, we wouldn’t go anywhere that wasn’t LGBTQ+-friendly, but obviously, some pubs are more specifically aimed at the community than others…something that probably needs its own list at some point.

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Bar Anam

Bar AnamIt must be New Pub Season – everything around Dublin seems to be rebranding, relaunching or reopening.

This particular new pub is in the space previously occupied by the much-lamented Underdog, and it would be fair to say that there has been a certain amount of impatience in the local beer-nerd community to see what it would be like.

Of course, it’s an entirely different business, so there were no expectations that Bar Anam would be any kind of like-for-like match for Underdog. Yes, there is (some) independent beer, which we’ll come on to shortly, but it’s not the main focus of the experience. As we’ve already described elsewhere, there simply aren’t that many spots in Dublin that have much beyond your typical Diageo-and-Heineken options, and in the absence of Underdog, there’s really only Brickyard, Porterhouse or Tapped if you’re looking for a wider variety of both breweries and styles – spots like Rascals and Fidelity may have some guest taps, but they are mostly their own beers.

Yes, there are individual pubs that have a dependable set of the same 4-6 offerings – nearly always Scraggy Bay, Ambush and a few Whiplash choices – and it’s fair to say that Bar Anam fits into this category at present. There aren’t quite as many taps (yet?) as at their sister bar, Dudley’s, but there is a strong cocktail game – all those we saw on opening night looked wonderful.

The food is still on its way, but it sounds like it will be tasty: Korean-inspired fried chicken and dumplings from DAK will be serving up from the still-under-construction back room shortly.

While the proximity of The Black Sheep means there is still a somewhat-larger craft beer offering a short walk away (albeit one that is, again, mostly a single brewery – Galway Bay in this instance, plus some rotating guest taps), time will tell if this becomes a hangout spot for the now-peripatetic beer nerd crowd.

But we do hope that in any event, Bar Anam manages to make a success of this spot; the turnover here in recent years has swift. We’ll be back to test the food very soon…

Where: 199 King St N, Dublin 1, D07 PR5X (at the top of Capel Street)
Access from the city centre: Buses 1, 11, 16, 44, 46A, 155, Luas Green Line, 15-20 minute walk
Food: Korean fried chicken is on its way
Sport: Not so far
TVs: Not yet
Music: Perhaps a bit loud, but all bangers; there was even a DJ opening night
Family-friendliness: Remains to be seen, but the food sounds like it will be crowd-pleasing to most palates
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Black Sheep, J McNeill’s, The King’s Inn, Bonobo, Bar 1661, The Church, Slattery’s…or wander on to Smithfield or Stoneybatter
Local sites of note: National Leprechaun Museum, Wolfe Tone Square, 14 Henrietta Street, King’s Inns,
Haunted: Is this spot cursed? One hopes not…
Other notes: Still the same basement toilets, though a bit spruced up
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Drop Dead Twice

Outside Drop Dead TwiceWhat is it with certain parts of Dublin and lovely places Going On Fire?

Originally opened in 2017, Drop Dead Twice was known for its good beer, excellent cocktails, LGBTQ+ events and dog friendliness. But then, like a number of nearby businesses before and since (notably Love Tempo, just a short walk away), Drop Dead Twice had a damaging fire back in 2022. And while it’s not quite back at full strength – food and bigger events are still to come – happily, the pub has now reopened.

A pint at Drop Dead Twice with new wall art. You heard it, right?The ‘bumblebee’ yellow-and-black paint job outside has been replaced with a more plain black exterior, though still with yellow lettering, but it looks ever-so-slightly more sombre (or, perhaps, sophisticated?). Inside, it’s still got a bit of an under-construction feel, with the sense that more decoration is coming, but what’s there now is a mix of darker hues of blue, black and red, and to good effect. The stage area toward the rear looks like it will soon be back in action, and there is a comfortable mix of different seating options.

The cocktails have returned, and beer-wise, there were not one, but two Rollover taps, representing Whiplash, as well as other local faves like Ambush. Dublin Bay IPA from Hopkins & Hopkins is less-often seen on tap around town, so that was a nice bonus, and there were also Kilkenny and Harp options from the ‘macro legacy’ selection box.

We’ll need to get back to visit again once it’s fully back in action, but indications so far are positive – lovely staff, a nice beer selection and a lively vibe. Let’s hope for no more conflagrations!

The bar at Drop Dead TwiceWhere: 18/19 Francis St, The Liberties, Dublin, D08 EK06
Access from the city centre: Buses C4, G1/G2, 13, 23, 24, 27, 56A, 73, 77A, 80, 150, 15ish minute walk
Food: Not back yet, but stay tuned
Sport: More drag than sport
TVs: We missed them, if they were there!
Music: Lots of genres and live shows – watch the socials
Family-friendliness: More of a grownup vibe
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Lucky’s, Dudley’s, Arthur’s, Swift, Love Tempo (still closed after a *different* fire, as of this writing), Guinness Open Gate Brewery, The Thomas House, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle and Thomas Read’s/The Oak are all within a short walk; The Brazen Head is also not far, if you fancy paying more
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen’s Church
Haunted: There is still a new-carpentry-and-paint feel – does that count?
Other notes: Very pet-friendly
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Thomas Read’s

Behind the bar at Thomas Read'sIt’s time for another pub re-brand, but this one does seem to be purely a name swap and a bit of a paint job, rather than anything more drastic. We speak, of course, of Thomas Read’s, latterly known as The Beer Temple. But while the name has changed, it’s not even an entirely new one: the pub was previously known as Thomas Read’s (also previously Thomas Reade and similar variations), so it’s really just a return to what might be classed as tradition, although the current building does not go quite as far back as the specific Thomas Read namechecked.

That said, while this site was largely rebuilt in the late 19th/early 20th century, Parliament Street and the surrounding area does have Georgian roots, with much of the area having been an output of the Wide Streets Commission. As we like to bang on about, it’s why there isn’t much of medieval Dublin visible above ground (though this is a good neighbourhood to go searching for little glimpses), but there are historical elements here. Yes, this spot is mentioned in Ulysses (though not as a pub), but it was also held by the Irish Citizen Army during the 1916 Rising (with considerable repair work required after).

More at Thomas Read'sThe Read family did run their business from what is now House of Read just to the rear – while the date above the door there suggest a 1670 date (which does line up with the business founding), the location is a firmly 18th century building, mostly likely constructed in the 1760s as with much of the surrounding area. But for the much more complicated history of the Thomas Read name and its association with the pub trade, check out Every Pub in Dublin – happily for everyone involved, Cian has done the heavy lifting here, with the attendant Celtic Tiger-era twists and turns. We also recommend House of Read for tea and small snacks; they do excellent miniature cakes and pastries, among other more substantial offerings, and the interior there has been very well-restored to its 1760s appearance.

But back to the pub…

More nautical photos are on The Oak sideIn truth, beyond some more sober colour choices and nods to both the Read family and a portrait of Michael Collins, little has changed – but this is no bad thing. The more recent trend around Dublin has been for pubs to remove their independent beer taps when they renovate, but happily, Thomas Read’s remains a Galway Bay Brewing pub, so there is the usual range of their beers and a few guests, although there are, perhaps, a few more Guinness and Heineken taps than there used to be. The Oak side has also had a bit of a glow-up, though again, the major changes there are cosmetic – adding some decoration to the many mirrors, for example – the are-they-from-the-Mauretania panels have been left alone. Staff suggested that the aim is to think of The Oak as more of a whiskey bar, although it’s easy enough to walk from one side to the other with your beverage of choice.

Here we are once more at the scene of our former triumphs (yes, before another Divine Comedy gig)And it’s a change that makes sense from a tourism point of view: if we’re being honest, The Beer Temple was a name that sounded a little try-hard and bro-y (even if the pub was not – indeed, it’s always been one of the most family-friendly in town), whereas Thomas Read’s is very much more ‘Irish pub’ – and in this part of town, with so many tourist attractions, it makes sense not to make tour groups or travellers think that your business only caters to a certain brand of drinker. So it’s not quite a more ‘grown-up’ name, but it is a nice nod to the area’s history.

And given where Thomas Read’s is, right at the entrance to Temple Bar, it’s by no means cheap, but there is one nice promotion that they look to continue to run – on Mondays and Tuesdays, Galway Bay Brewing pints are only €6.50. Around these parts, that’s a great deal.

Where: Thomas Read’s, 1-3 Parliament St, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, D02 AN28
Access from the city centre: You are in it – nearly everything touristy is within a 5-10 minute walk
Food: Usual Galway Bay menu; breakfast on weekends
Sport: Not constant, but now there are bigger games on
TVs: See above: more for major rugby, football, etc
Music: Playlist now depends on the day; occasional live acts
Family-friendliness: Still very welcoming to all ages at the usual times, with food that appeases fussy eaters; kids’ menu available
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Porterhouse, all the Temple Bar tourist traps, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle, The Brazen Head, or wander into The Liberties for spots like Dudley’s, Swift, Lucky’s and more…
Local sites of note: Olympia Theatre, Dublin Castle, Dublin City Hall, Chester Beatty Library, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia
Haunted: Still no obvious ghosts
Other notes: Basement toilets still not meaningfully renovated or accessible

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Lucky’s

Lucky's and a screenWe are back in action this week, now that the Paddy’s Day crowds have moved on, and, as so often, we find ourselves in The Liberties. We’re visiting Lucky’s, a pub we’ve frequently stopped in during the Libertine Market Crawl (although they are no longer on the current route), but we have not really had time to relax there.

The beer garden at Lucky'sWith one recent glorious afternoon of sun, however, making the most of it was a moral imperative – and so, we repaired to Lucky’s. The main pull was their large and well-appointed beer garden to the rear of the pub; it’s one of a very few in Dublin that makes an effort to separate out the non-smoking bit of the outdoor area to a certain extent, which is very much appreciated.

The bar at Lucky'sAs a sister bar to The Circular, Lucky’s also serves Coke Lane Pizza from the late afternoons onward, and many of our fellow sun-seekers in the beer garden were waiting impatiently for it to open – it is, it must be said, quite tasty pizza. While on this occasion most people stayed outside, owing to the fine weather, it should be noted that the interior of Lucky’s is also very comfortable: no, it’s not got Old Man Pub fittings, but it’s nice to have a brighter spot on occasion (yes, grey counts as ‘brighter’ compared to many places), and there’s a lot of great art by local artists all around the pub. Also, COAT HOOKS.

A Rollover by Whiplash at Lucky'sBeer-wise, there’s a nice, rotating mix of local independent options from Whiplash, Rascals and Hopfully (among others recently on tap), along with the usual Guinness; bottles of flavoured cider seemed to be the thing the Young People were going for. Rather unusually, there’s also Hoegaarden, plus a range of cocktails and non-alcoholic options.

One of the reasons we so often end up in The Liberties is the sheer range of pubs on offer; although Lucky’s may cater to a younger crowd (broadly speaking), we found it a great spot to soak up a bit of sun on a weekend afternoon, and it made for an easy hop over to Dudley’s, one of our more usual haunts.

Yes, we need to make a return trip for the pizza, but that’s no bad thing, once we get more consistent sunny weather…fingers crossed. Lucky’s is a worthy addition to our list of Dublin’s best pubs for sunny weather.

Where: 78 Meath St, The Liberties, Dublin 8, D08 A318
Access from the city centre: Buses C4, G1/G2, 13, 23, 24, 27, 56A, 73, 77A, 80, 150, 15ish minute walk
Food: Coke Lane Pizza
Sport: Major sport on (rugby, Premier League, etc), but more musical than sporty
TVs: A few here and there, even outside
Music: Music for cool people – there’s also a DJ booth
Family-friendliness: Fine in the afternoon/early evening
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Dudley’s, Arthur’s, Swift, Love Tempo (still closed after a fire, as of this writing), Guinness Open Gate Brewery, Drop Dead Twice (just reopened after a fire), The Thomas House, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle and The Beer Temple/The Oak are all within a short walk; The Brazen Head is also not far, if you fancy paying more
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen’s Church
Haunted: The Liberties should have plenty of ghosts. But Lucky’s? No sign!
Other notes: Very pet-friendly
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: O’Donoghue’s

Exterior of O'Donoghue's. Yes, there's always this much traffic.Regular readers know that we tend to keep north of the Liffey, or else head more toward The Liberties when we must cross the river. However, we had occasion to be in the area on a weekday afternoon, and so finally made it a priority to call in to O’Donoghue’s – a pub we’ve had a few requests to cover.

Now, while it’s been on the list for a while, we’ve not made it in for a few reasons – not just our general laziness when it comes to heading south. We tend to avoid the more ‘touristy’ areas of town, not only because of the price of a pint in them (though we’re not quite talking Temple Bar pricing here), but because there also tends to be less going on in terms of food and beer selection in a lot of the pubs that pop up on the usual tourist trail recommendation lists. Add in live trad to the equation, and it can be a potent mix that signals ‘tourists only!’ – a combination most keenly felt in many of the pubs in Temple Bar, but that also applies to places like The Brazen Head. And on a recent walk past, the specific tunes and crowd spilling out of O’Donoghue’s that evening seemed to be, well, that.

Inside O'Donoghue's - much calmer!However, our midweek daytime visit was quite a different affair, and all to the good. Both the interior and the large beer garden were calm, though not empty – as we write this, it is Cheltenham week, and that tends to mean fairly full Old Man Pubs – the resulting crowd was a good mix of locals and visiting Yorkshiremen, most with an interest in the racing. It was also encouraging to see Lucky Pale Ale from Trouble on tap; so many of the ‘must-visit’ pubs here in Dublin – notably Toner’s, just across the street – only have Guinness and/or Heineken products, so seeing at least one local independent beer makes things much more interesting for us.

And the music heritage at O’Donoghue’s is a very real aspect of the appeal; The Dubliners are forever associated with it, and they are looking at you from a range of portraits and photos around the pub. The dark, scuffed (but not uncomfortable) wooden furniture adds to the atmosphere, and while it’s not as large and maze-like as its neighbour across the street, it’s still a much larger pub than you’d guess from the outside. And although the building may not be quite as old as claimed, it’s certainly in the general Georgian ballpark. But it’s the pub’s association with trad music over the last half century that makes it unique. And, like The Cobblestone, it still has a reputation for drawing trad musicians and fans from near and far – it’s not the frequently diddley-eye mix of tunes aimed only at tourists you get in certain quarters.

The beer garden at O'Donoghue'sThat said, we are more likely to take ourselves to The Cobblestone or Dudley’s if we’re in the mood for music and pints, but that’s more a function of proximity (and beer selection) than anything else. We can certainly see why O’Donoghue’s is still a real destination for trad, for visitors and locals alike, even if we don’t get down that way particularly often.

No Temple Bar vibes here!

Where: 15 Merrion Row, Dublin
Access from the city centre: Stephen’s Green is just around the corner
Food: Crisps
Sport: Rugby, horse racing, etc…
TVs: Screens both inside and out for the sport
Music: Live trad every night
Family-friendliness: More of a grownup spot, but children/families are welcome to stay in the guest rooms – no kids after 9 pm in the bar area, though, as standard elsewhere
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium-High – Toner’s, McGrattan’s, Kennedy’s and Doheny & Nesbitt are all very close, though we like to head further on up toward Tapped, Cassidy’s, Bowes or The Palace Bar
Local sites of note: Huguenot Cemetery, Little Museum of Dublin, St Stephen’s Green, Merrion Square, Fitzwilliam Square, Royal Hibernian Academy, Oireachtas, National Library of Ireland, National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology and The Dead Zoo), National Gallery of Ireland…etc.
Haunted: A strange lack of spooky tales…
Other notes: Main floor toilets
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Barebone

A menu and pint of Ambush at BareboneBack in the 1990s – before Trainspotting, as it happens – Robert Carlyle and Shirley Henderson starred in Hamish Macbeth, a vastly-underrated Scottish cosy crime comedy-drama, with a bit of quirky/folksy paranormal goodness thrown in here and there for good measure. In the show, Carlyle played the titular Macbeth, a police constable with an adorable Westie, a fondness for the odd herbal cigarette and a work ethic that isn’t overly-dedicated to solving crimes, but who, nonetheless, keeps his small, eccentric village in good order. Shirley Henderson’s character starts off as a relatively conventional love interest (this was, after all, the 1990s), but as with all the characters in this excellent show, we discover much more as we go along.

What, though, does this have to do with Dublin pubs?

Well.

In the episode ‘No Man is an Island,’ Hamish decamps to a nearby island – we’ll be vague about why, and let you avoid spoilers in case you haven’t had the chance to watch – and during his absence, those left behind in Lochdubh are not thrilled with his replacement, PC Duggan, who is much more committed to following the letter of the law. In response, they employ a strategy of treating him like ‘the man before the man before Macbeth.’ Once again, avoiding spoilers, it is an absolute delight, and you should go watch the entire run of the programme.

No doubt, you are still wondering what this has to do with Dublin, much less pubs – but we’re getting there.

A pint of Ambush with a view of the bar behindIn 2024, Dublin craft beer OG Against the Grain closed abruptly, not long after a renovation. What had been a friendly and welcoming Galway Bay pub with an excellent tap lineup of own-brand and guest beers was replaced by the wildly-underwhelming Teach Tábhairne Ag Teach, a semi-sport-related concept with a single independent tap and a lot of beer you’ll find anywhere – a massive downgrade. As we’ve said before, we aren’t anti-Guinness, we just want to see it as well as a wider variety of other local beers. And this was…not that.

Fast forward to a few months ago, and what had been ‘the place that replaced Against the Grain‘ (at least, to our social circle) closed as well. Drumroll, then, for the opening of Barebone – ‘the place that replaced the place that replaced Against the Grain.’

The exterior of BareboneAlthough initial chatter was the Barebone would be ‘just a restaurant,’ we’re happy to report that it does still feel like a neighbourhood pub – but one that also happens to do quite good food. Yes, the décor has been upgraded even a smidgeon more – lots of dark tiles, mirrors and subtle brass fittings (including very handy coat/bag hooks, which we don’t see enough) – but it’s all thoroughly welcoming, both for the person stopping in for a quick (or not-so-quick) drink and their more relaxed-dinner counterpart. While the taplist isn’t quite as extensive as it was during the Galway Bay days, there were independent options from Hope, Whiplash and Trouble, as well as more ciders than one usually sees, both on tap and in bottles. The cocktail list is interesting, and the only especially ‘expensive’ drink was Beavertown’s Neck Oil, which you can skip nowadays in any event. And there’s both Guinness and Beamish for the stout-comparing person in your life.

Steak and a pint at BareboneFood was fantastic – it’s not just your typical bar food – and it looks like a great spot for nibbles with a group, too, with a variety of options. The only major change to the layout is the addition of a DJ booth and some well-placed speakers – this is now another spot catering to the music enthusiast, in the vein of Fidelity or Daphni. In some ways, it’s a bit surprising there hasn’t been something more music-led here before, given the number of live venues within a short walk – ideal for pre- or post-gaming those events.

All told, Barebone is a great new-old addition to Camden Street – a welcome return in the sense that there’s a reliable pre-gig spot as there was in the Against the Grain days, but it also feels like it can be dialled-up as a spot for a ‘nice’ night out, plus everything in between. We’ll certainly be back.

Vinyl on the wall at BareboneAnd so while it’s true that we didn’t need to quite go to the extremes the townspeople of Lochdubh did, we’re thrilled that the place that replaced the place that replaced Against the Grain is a worthy successor. And if you haven’t binged Hamish Macbeth yet, what are you waiting for?

Where: 11 Wexford St, Dublin, D02 HY84
Access from the city centre: Buses 9, 14, 15, 16, 27, 56A, 65B, 77A, 83, 140, 151, 15-ish minute walk
Food: Steak, Korean-inspired chicken, tacos…all interesting
Sport: Music >> Sport
TVs: More speakers than screens
Music: Well-curated vinyl selection, not dissimilar to that at The Big Romance
Family-friendliness: More of a grownup vibe
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Bleeding Horse, Devitt’s, Anseo, The Camden, The Portobello Bar, Whelan’s, Ryan’s of Camden Street…and the local ‘Spoon’s, Keavan’s Port
Local sites of note: Iveagh Gardens, St Stephen’s Green, National Concert Hall, Marsh’s Library, St Patrick’s Cathedral
Haunted: Hopefully, the good times are back…but a few ghosts wouldn’t go amiss
Other notes: Fantastic service all around
Socials: Instagram, TikTok

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: BrewDog

Exterior of BrewDogBrewDog is, once again, back in the news for Negative Reasons, but coincidentally, we had plans to be at Dublin’s BrewDog over the weekend anyway. And so, rather accidentally, we’ve managed to cover a pub that’s been getting some press coverage…let’s dive in.

Similar to many other extant BrewDog pubs around the world, it’s a large, modern building: lots of exposed beams and concrete. Dublin’s BrewDog has the advantage (or disadvantage) of being something of a trek around the docks: this means there are interesting views of the canal and Poolbeg chimneys from the large windows and expansive deck, but you need to be heading there on purpose; there’s limited casual foot traffic beyond the offices in the immediate area. This can, theoretically, draw a large after-work crowd, but we’ve never found it particularly crowded – but whether that is down to the sprawling layout or a true reflection of its popularity is hard to say.

Inside BrewDogInside, the look is straight out of the Craftonia playbook, with very little to give it a local feel from a decorative perspective. There’s an indoor firepit downstairs, with lots of long tables for groups (plus semi-covered outdoor seating at the back), and the upstairs has shuffleboard and a deck. The BrewDog branded house beers tend to be on the ‘it’s fine’ side – more on the other locals and collaborations in a moment – and the food is also in the ‘useful for a wide range of palates and allergy needs’ category without being particularly remarkable.

So far, so generic.

And yet, here’s the unexpected (to us) part: we’ve never had anything but positive experiences here. We used to come more often (back in the pre-workplace culture allegations era) when we lived nearby, for two main reasons: first, during different parts of lockdown, BrewDog could actually open, thanks to their outdoor seating; secondly, they have always been extremely family-friendly, and when we had Smaller Offspring, it was a more important part of the experience.

A pint and table decorations at BrewDogNowadays, we are rarely in this part of town, and if we were looking for pre-show drinks, we’d be more likely to hit up Daphni, and yet, there are two other factors that give this particular BrewDog real appeal: the excellent staff, and the guest beers. We’ve never had a visit where the team behind the bar have been anything other than great: always deeply knowledgeable about the beers and beer styles in general, whilst being friendly and helpful. Given the size of the pub, it’s often a spot for events and parties, and they are clearly skilled at keeping those running smoothly and efficiently. And the guest and collaboration beers from the likes of Hope and Four Provinces are very much the sorts of things you won’t generally find elsewhere – on this most recent visit, they were excellent. Granted, we shouldn’t have to get so excited about finding a perfect pale ale on tap, but it’s a vanishingly rare thing these days.

The bar at BrewDogWe have no insights into ‘what will happen’ with BrewDog’s uncertain future (though it’s difficult to imagine a space of this size continuing without global private equity money). In our ideal world, this would continue as an independent tap room and community space with the same staff, but we also know that’s highly unlikely. It’s also possible a buyer will swoop in and continue running BrewDog’s portfolio as-is (for good and ill), but as of this writing, it’s all guesswork.

In summary, it’s a pub with a great team (and having worked for a lot of ‘evil multinationals’ like Amazon, we 100% empathize with rarely having the luxury of choosing the ownership/management of your parent company, even if we might choose to spend money elsewhere when possible), a unique-for-Dublin space and some interesting guest beers. While we may be no fans of BrewDog’s leadership, we’ve got our fingers crossed for everyone who works here.

Where: Three Locks Square, 4, Grand Canal Dock, Dublin 2, D02 E5R7
Access from the city centre: Buses C1/C2/C3/C4, 47, 56A, 77A; 30ish minute walk
Food: Pizza, burgers, salads, bowls: lots of veggie and vegan options, too
Sport: Lots of sport
TVs: Screens inside and even outside on the patios and terrace
Music: Varies, depends on the time of day
Family-friendliness: Very welcoming to families
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – The local ‘Spoons (The South Strand) is the nearest spot, Daphni and Dockers are quite close, but otherwise, it’s a bit of a further trip to the pubs of Ringsend or spots like The Wind Jammer
Local sites of note: Grand Canal Dock, Bord Gáis Energy Theatre
Haunted: Only by alleged corporate malfeasance
Other notes: One of a very few fully-accessible spots in Dublin, with useful toilets and a lift
Socials: Facebook, Instagram