We’ve been rather remiss in not getting to Kavanagh’s in Stoneybatter before now, as we are not infrequently within no more than a 5-minute walk of this large corner pub. Schedules, however, had simply not aligned. But that changed with this past weekend’s edition of the wildly-successful Stoneybatter Festival, one of Dublin’s best annual events – a neighbourhood celebration of community, diversity, music and pets (among other festivities).
We took a break from the partying to relax indoors with some pints – the sun was ‘too bright’ for the youngest in our party – and to have a general nosey around the pub. Inside it’s every inch the Victorian/Edwardian pub – there are public and lounge bars that have separate outdoor entrances, but that are also connected inside via the stained-glass-adorned doors that (also) lead to the toilets – you’ll just need confidence walking through that you know where you’re going.
But as imposing as it looks outside, it’s pleasantly warren-like inside – there’s a semi-snug near the front on one side, and a variety of cosy spots on the other, including a tiled inset that seems to have appeared from the 1930s, while the rest of the bar remained in about 1901 (the date on the façade outside does seem to be accurate in this instance, even if that’s so rarely the case – looking at you, The Brazen Head). But there’s much more than simply the two main bars – there’s an entire function room/private bar upstairs that’s been hosting music, comedy and cabaret events. Again, it’s not especially notably signposted, so it’s more a case of simply wandering to the spot you’re looking for; there’s a lovely fireplace upstairs as a reward for your trek up.
But it’s the outdoor space that really stands out; another hidden sun trap, with some well-considered seating (both covered and uncovered), now hosting a pizza oven. It’s clear that no small effort has gone into this part of Kavanagh’s since its change of management over the winter, and one imagines that some of the interior bits that could do with a bit of a polish are next on the list.
There aren’t any independent beer offerings (and no, Beavertown certainly doesn’t count nowadays), but it is possible to do the Big Three Stouts here for those who enjoy doing their blind Guinness/Murphy’s/Beamish tasting; we tend to prefer Beamish of the three, but all were in excellent shape. As an aside on the ‘comparing stouts’ point, this is a handy area for it – The Belfry is also a good spot for this activity, and we have an entire roundup of Best Pubs for Stout for those venturing further afield.
And while we are always partial to a pub that has local independent beer, there’s a lot to like at Kavanagh’s even in its absence (though we’d love to see at least one tap appear, especially when there are quite a few good alternatives in the immediate vicinity – maybe it’s coming?) – it’s very much a lovely traditional boozer that is still successfully catering to a mix of long-time locals, students and visitors.
We couldn’t find a good ghost story, but we hope it has one – it feels like the kind of pub that should be haunted by locals who never wanted to leave.
Where:1-2 Aughrim Street, Manor Street, Dublin
Access from the city centre: Buses 37, 39, 39A, 46A, 70, Luas Red Line, 30ish minute walk
Food: Pizza
Sport: All the major sports
TVs: Screens placed throughout the large pub
Music: A mix of 80s tunes on our visit
Family-friendliness: Kids fine during the usual times
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Hynes’ Bar, L. Mulligan. Grocer, The Glimmer Man, The Cobblestone, Delaney’s, The Belfry, Walsh’s, The Barber’s Bar & Bonobo are quite close; Fidelity isn’t too much further away
Local sites of note: The Lighthouse Cinema, Arbour Hill Cemetery, TUD Grangegorman
Haunted: There are definitely vibes here – that table in the corner must be haunted
Other notes: Main floor and upstairs toilets
Socials: Instagram
It’s true we have a tendency to stick to pubs that are north of the Liffey, but we rarely venture out into the true suburbs – we are usually still within reasonable walking distance of Dublin city centre. This week, however, we take a longish bus ride out to the wilds of Kilbarrack to visit The Bayside Inn.
Indeed, The Bayside Inn is so ‘of this place’ that it sits in the car park in the shopping centre, next to the church – all of a thoroughly 1970s vintage. One gets the feeling that not much has changed in the internal décor since the doors opened in 1974 (per the painted gold letters on the half-glass doors. Some fairy lights have been added to the open rafters, and a taxidermied bear is observing proceedings from above, but beyond the TV screens, we doubt that much has been altered. It might not be a perfect time capsule from the 1970s, but it’s also not terribly far off. And while there may be very slight visual and architectural similarities to this particular vintage of ‘estate pubs’ on the Neighbouring Island, the feeling is still very much ‘neighbourhood Dublin pub’ – it doesn’t have a ‘locals only’ vibe, even if it does have plenty of regulars (which can, of course, be said of many estate pubs in Britain, even if that’s not the popular reputation).
And some things have changed with the times; there is good support for local independent beer here, with fresh selections from Hope, brewed under 2 km away at Howth Junction, on tap. Yes, there’s Guinness and all the other usual options, but it’s nice to see smaller local businesses giving each other a helping hand. We confess we’ve only made it up here when we’ve been visiting local friends (or doing a spot of cat-sitting), but we’ve always felt very welcome here, even as only occasional drop-ins.
We venture south of the Liffey again for two purposes: bagels and beer. Whilst our main goal on our visit to 
Inside, what could have been a tired 1970s-era renovation in a 19th century pub has been thoughtfully updated, keeping a bit of the old for camp and comfort, with a blend of fantastic local art, memorabilia and the finest Pride gear (not just in June, we are told, but all the year round, and it’s wonderful) well-placed on all the walls. It’s one of the most cleanly-designed pubs we’ve ever been in, but it still feels packed with personality – these aren’t the ‘hotel bar’ vibes you get 
And there is truly something for everyone – sport, including an emphasis on women’s sport (FINALLY), is on various screens, there’s a monthly folk club, drag bingo and pub quizzes galore. But you’ve likely come to read about the bagels, and we wouldn’t leave you disappointed. Ireland is not generally known for its strong bagel game – see also: 
This week, we make a trip not only south of the Liffey, but nearly into the heart of Dublin 4, with a visit to 
It’s very much a neighbourhood spot, welcoming local families, game day regulars and guests – you can even stay in the pub. And while its renovation of the past decade means it’s got a bit more polished wood and stained glass than many of its counterparts on the other side of the river, it never feels snobby. There are some lovely snugs – again, more stained glass – and various different spaces to spread out around this large pub. Local independent beers are well-represented (from Trouble and Wicklow Wolf on this most recent visit, though we’ve also seen Hope in the past), but this is another spot where the stout enthusiast can do the full Guinness–Beamish–Murphy’s taste test.
We will eventually do a ‘Best Pubs for the Aviva’ roundup to complement our ‘