Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Thomas Read’s

Behind the bar at Thomas Read'sIt’s time for another pub re-brand, but this one does seem to be purely a name swap and a bit of a paint job, rather than anything more drastic. We speak, of course, of Thomas Read’s, latterly known as The Beer Temple. But while the name has changed, it’s not even an entirely new one: the pub was previously known as Thomas Read’s (also previously Thomas Reade and similar variations), so it’s really just a return to what might be classed as tradition, although the current building does not go quite as far back as the specific Thomas Read namechecked.

That said, while this site was largely rebuilt in the late 19th/early 20th century, Parliament Street and the surrounding area does have Georgian roots, with much of the area having been an output of the Wide Streets Commission. As we like to bang on about, it’s why there isn’t much of medieval Dublin visible above ground (though this is a good neighbourhood to go searching for little glimpses), but there are historical elements here. Yes, this spot is mentioned in Ulysses (though not as a pub), but it was also held by the Irish Citizen Army during the 1916 Rising (with considerable repair work required after).

More at Thomas Read'sThe Read family did run their business from what is now House of Read just to the rear – while the date above the door there suggest a 1670 date (which does line up with the business founding), the location is a firmly 18th century building, mostly likely constructed in the 1760s as with much of the surrounding area. But for the much more complicated history of the Thomas Read name and its association with the pub trade, check out Every Pub in Dublin – happily for everyone involved, Cian has done the heavy lifting here, with the attendant Celtic Tiger-era twists and turns. We also recommend House of Read for tea and small snacks; they do excellent miniature cakes and pastries, among other more substantial offerings, and the interior there has been very well-restored to its 1760s appearance.

But back to the pub…

More nautical photos are on The Oak sideIn truth, beyond some more sober colour choices and nods to both the Read family and a portrait of Michael Collins, little has changed – but this is no bad thing. The more recent trend around Dublin has been for pubs to remove their independent beer taps when they renovate, but happily, Thomas Read’s remains a Galway Bay Brewing pub, so there is the usual range of their beers and a few guests, although there are, perhaps, a few more Guinness and Heineken taps than there used to be. The Oak side has also had a bit of a glow-up, though again, the major changes there are cosmetic – adding some decoration to the many mirrors, for example – the are-they-from-the-Mauretania panels have been left alone. Staff suggested that the aim is to think of The Oak as more of a whiskey bar, although it’s easy enough to walk from one side to the other with your beverage of choice.

Here we are once more at the scene of our former triumphs (yes, before another Divine Comedy gig)And it’s a change that makes sense from a tourism point of view: if we’re being honest, The Beer Temple was a name that sounded a little try-hard and bro-y (even if the pub was not – indeed, it’s always been one of the most family-friendly in town), whereas Thomas Read’s is very much more ‘Irish pub’ – and in this part of town, with so many tourist attractions, it makes sense not to make tour groups or travellers think that your business only caters to a certain brand of drinker. So it’s not quite a more ‘grown-up’ name, but it is a nice nod to the area’s history.

And given where Thomas Read’s is, right at the entrance to Temple Bar, it’s by no means cheap, but there is one nice promotion that they look to continue to run – on Mondays and Tuesdays, Galway Bay Brewing pints are only €6.50. Around these parts, that’s a great deal.

Where: Thomas Read’s, 1-3 Parliament St, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, D02 AN28
Access from the city centre: You are in it – nearly everything touristy is within a 5-10 minute walk
Food: Usual Galway Bay menu; breakfast on weekends
Sport: Not constant, but now there are bigger games on
TVs: See above: more for major rugby, football, etc
Music: Playlist now depends on the day; occasional live acts
Family-friendliness: Still very welcoming to all ages at the usual times, with food that appeases fussy eaters; kids’ menu available
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Porterhouse, all the Temple Bar tourist traps, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle, The Brazen Head, or wander into The Liberties for spots like Dudley’s, Swift, Lucky’s and more…
Local sites of note: Olympia Theatre, Dublin Castle, Dublin City Hall, Chester Beatty Library, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia
Haunted: Still no obvious ghosts
Other notes: Basement toilets still not meaningfully renovated or accessible

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: O’Donoghue’s

Exterior of O'Donoghue's. Yes, there's always this much traffic.Regular readers know that we tend to keep north of the Liffey, or else head more toward The Liberties when we must cross the river. However, we had occasion to be in the area on a weekday afternoon, and so finally made it a priority to call in to O’Donoghue’s – a pub we’ve had a few requests to cover.

Now, while it’s been on the list for a while, we’ve not made it in for a few reasons – not just our general laziness when it comes to heading south. We tend to avoid the more ‘touristy’ areas of town, not only because of the price of a pint in them (though we’re not quite talking Temple Bar pricing here), but because there also tends to be less going on in terms of food and beer selection in a lot of the pubs that pop up on the usual tourist trail recommendation lists. Add in live trad to the equation, and it can be a potent mix that signals ‘tourists only!’ – a combination most keenly felt in many of the pubs in Temple Bar, but that also applies to places like The Brazen Head. And on a recent walk past, the specific tunes and crowd spilling out of O’Donoghue’s that evening seemed to be, well, that.

Inside O'Donoghue's - much calmer!However, our midweek daytime visit was quite a different affair, and all to the good. Both the interior and the large beer garden were calm, though not empty – as we write this, it is Cheltenham week, and that tends to mean fairly full Old Man Pubs – the resulting crowd was a good mix of locals and visiting Yorkshiremen, most with an interest in the racing. It was also encouraging to see Lucky Pale Ale from Trouble on tap; so many of the ‘must-visit’ pubs here in Dublin – notably Toner’s, just across the street – only have Guinness and/or Heineken products, so seeing at least one local independent beer makes things much more interesting for us.

And the music heritage at O’Donoghue’s is a very real aspect of the appeal; The Dubliners are forever associated with it, and they are looking at you from a range of portraits and photos around the pub. The dark, scuffed (but not uncomfortable) wooden furniture adds to the atmosphere, and while it’s not as large and maze-like as its neighbour across the street, it’s still a much larger pub than you’d guess from the outside. And although the building may not be quite as old as claimed, it’s certainly in the general Georgian ballpark. But it’s the pub’s association with trad music over the last half century that makes it unique. And, like The Cobblestone, it still has a reputation for drawing trad musicians and fans from near and far – it’s not the frequently diddley-eye mix of tunes aimed only at tourists you get in certain quarters.

The beer garden at O'Donoghue'sThat said, we are more likely to take ourselves to The Cobblestone or Dudley’s if we’re in the mood for music and pints, but that’s more a function of proximity (and beer selection) than anything else. We can certainly see why O’Donoghue’s is still a real destination for trad, for visitors and locals alike, even if we don’t get down that way particularly often.

No Temple Bar vibes here!

Where: 15 Merrion Row, Dublin
Access from the city centre: Stephen’s Green is just around the corner
Food: Crisps
Sport: Rugby, horse racing, etc…
TVs: Screens both inside and out for the sport
Music: Live trad every night
Family-friendliness: More of a grownup spot, but children/families are welcome to stay in the guest rooms – no kids after 9 pm in the bar area, though, as standard elsewhere
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium-High – Toner’s, McGrattan’s, Kennedy’s and Doheny & Nesbitt are all very close, though we like to head further on up toward Tapped, Cassidy’s, Bowes or The Palace Bar
Local sites of note: Huguenot Cemetery, Little Museum of Dublin, St Stephen’s Green, Merrion Square, Fitzwilliam Square, Royal Hibernian Academy, Oireachtas, National Library of Ireland, National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology and The Dead Zoo), National Gallery of Ireland…etc.
Haunted: A strange lack of spooky tales…
Other notes: Main floor toilets
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Bar Rua

Exterior of Bar RuaWhile perhaps rather less traditional-looking than many pubs, this week’s destination is one that is surrounded by many classic Victorian pubs, and so perhaps serves as something of a palate-cleanser: Bar Rua.

Just steps away from well-trodden spots that often appear in tourist must-visit lists, including The Long Hall, Neary’s and The Hairy Lemon, Bar Rua looks, at first glance, more like a late 1980s/early 1990s hype restaurant – think a little bit like Spago-on-the-Liffey. The modern red-and-glass exterior does have, in the local parlance, ‘a bang of the Celtic Tiger on it,’ but it’s a softer impression inside. While still clean and modern, the photos of Irish celebrities lining the walls do add a more ‘pubby’ feel, and there’s something reassuring about Brendan Gleeson casting a watchful eye over the premises.

Pictures on the wall at Bar RuaAnother unusual feature of this pub is that there are guestrooms above it, so again, despite its non-traditional look, it does hearken back, in some ways, to the functions of an inn. As a sidebar, we also discovered that you can also stay above The Beer Temple – this was news to us! There are a variety of spaces spread across the building, so private events are common, with bars in multiple locations. One slight oddity on our visit was that the Full Sail – one of Galway Bay Brewing’s flagship beers, and always a solid option – was not available anywhere despite its tap handle popping up in different parts of the pub, but that was made up for by an excellent guest beer from Belfast’s Boundary instead. Is Bar Rua, indeed, still officially a Galway Bay pub? The property was sold a few years ago, and it certainly still has a fair few Galway Bay beers and their food menu, although it doesn’t show up under ‘our bars’ on their website…but it’s there if you do a bit of digging. Granted, this much more ‘inside baseball’ that the average punter likely cares about, but hey, we’re curious.

An upstairs room at Bar RuaIn any event, the food, drink selection (minus the absent Full Sail, on this occasion) and service are all on point; we’re still disappointed with recent visits to The Brew Dock, which is still very much in the Galway Bay stable, but all of those elements were in fine shape at Bar Rua. And with so much choice in the area, pubs here need to be on top of their game; it’s easy enough to walk a few doors down if something doesn’t suit or seems ‘off’ on the day, or if you’re simply seeking a change of pace.

And we confess it had been some time since we’d last popped in to Bar Rua – possibly not since the 2024 Women’s Mini Marathon, when they were offering very welcome free glasses* of any flagship beer to finishers. Our party was certainly on brand on that occasion, with red faces from the effort (‘rua’ being an Irish word for ‘red,’ though at least in the smaller offspring’s school, they prefer ‘dearg’ for a ‘red’ red) – perhaps we need to stop in again after this year’s event…though a race medal is certainly not required to enter the pub.

We had a lovely visit on a recent chill Sunday afternoon – it’s not always easy to achieve calm in Dublin city centre on a weekend, but Bar Rua kept us cosy, well-fed and well-watered: a very relaxed spot indeed.

Where: 32 Clarendon St, Dublin 2, D02 HX66
Access from the city centre: You are there
Food: Standard Galway Bay menu, plus a cheese plate
Sport: All the usual big games & sport are on
TVs: Many all around the pub
Music: Fairly MOR tunes in the background
Family-friendliness: As with all Galway Bay spots, very welcoming
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Neary’s, The Hairy Lemon, Caribou, Sheehan’s, The Long Hall, Grogan’s, Peter’s Pub, Sinnott’s Bar and more are all nearby
Local sites of note: Gaiety Theatre, Craft Central, Little Museum of Dublin, George’s Street Arcade, St Stephen’s Green, Grafton Street
Haunted: Celtic Tiger ghosts?
Other notes: Many levels and upstairs toilets, so not especially accessible, despite being a modern building
Socials: Facebook, Instagram

*For the visitor, a ‘glass’ in Ireland is a half-pint.

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Sheehan’s

Exterior of Sheehan'sThis week, we remain on the south side of Dublin with a visit to Sheehan’s, a very central pub indeed. Despite its close proximity to Grafton Street and the Gaiety Theatre, we confess to never having particularly noticed it – though, granted, we are rarely near Grafton Street on purpose, and when in this part of town, we are typically headed to Caribou (after the inevitable stop-in at Craft Central).

It can feel a bit like running a gauntlet over there these days; the now-constant massive queue of Young People waiting for pizza slice at Bambino (and then Instagramming it all over the footpath) is a non-trivial obstacle. One imagines that the queueing is part of the ‘experience,’ though while it’s a perfectly fine pizza slice – at least, it was when we tried it at first opening, just before the hype kicked in – it’s not something we would wait for when there’s nicer pizza at Rascals or Vice, and you can sit down or have it simply appear at your house (or at Doyle’s Corner, in the case of Vice)…but we digress. The nearby crowds meant that we’d never really had cause to walk in the direction of Sheehan’s, but after seeing that they had recently become a venue serving Trouble Dark Arts Porter (see, we can be influenced by The Socials, too), it became a priority spot to try.

Trouble Dark ArtsAnd it was a very pleasant discovery indeed – the Dark Arts was as fresh as promised, but there were other independent offerings as well, notably Sullivan’s Black Marble Stout from Kilkenny. There were several Changing Times beers, and while we remain unconvinced about them in general from both a cost and taste perspective, as long as there are other options, it’s fine to see them. There was also Beamish, for the ‘split the B’ enthusiast in your life, plus the usual suspects.

The bar at Sheehan'sIt’s a very ‘pubby’ pub, with the usual dark woods and a lovely decorative ceiling. The atmosphere was very calming, certainly a change from the post-holiday shopping and pizza lines outside. It wasn’t quite full Old Man Pub, but was heading in that direction, in the best of ways, though it also felt fresh and up-to-date, with a good mix of clientele. It definitely feels like it’s been in the family for a good long while, and, indeed, it has. And if it’s one of those days where The Hairy Lemon or The Long Hall are absolutely overrun with tourists, Sheehan’s has a bit more of a calm, local vibe – it’s worth the very short walk around the corner.

A corner at Sheehan'sRather like TP Smith’s and Delaney’s, it seems that if we just wait around long enough, we’ll find independent beer in unexpected places (albeit of the more normal, core-range variety). But let’s hope we continue to be surprised…in the good way!

Where: 17 Chatham St, Dublin 2, D02 X923
Access from the city centre: Right in the mix
Food: Pub grub, pies
Sport: One imagines occasional sport
TVs: A few around the pub, though all were off on our visit
Music: Very chill on our visit
Family-friendliness: Not one for the kids
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Neary’s, The Hairy Lemon, Caribou, Bar Rua, The Long Hall, Grogan’s, Peter’s Pub, Sinnot’s Bar and more are all nearby
Local sites of note: Gaiety Theatre, Craft Central, Little Museum of Dublin, George’s Street Arcade, St Stephen’s Green, Grafton Street
Haunted: Please?
Other notes: Basement toilets, but also a dedicated whiskey bar upstairs
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Hairy Lemon

Upstairs at The Hairy Lemon: old signs and bikesWe’ve not always been fair to The Hairy Lemon.

In truth, until recently, we’d only visited it in a tourist capacity, long before moving to Dublin (see also: The Long Hall), and as a result, it felt less like a ‘local’ pub and more like one that catered purely to those here on brief trips. And while it certainly has a booming tourist trade, a more recent stop by made us realise that there’s more going on here, and that it can be well worth a drop in when we’re at Craft Central anyway. Uh, we are not infrequently ‘at Craft Central anyway’ – but that’s another story.

The bar at The Hairy LemonThe first point in its favour – for us, anyway – is its support for local independent beer: there are multiple Rye River taps, and they are all kept in excellent shape. Indeed, it has always felt like many of the more tourist-friendly pubs are missing a trick by not highlighting other Irish beers. Yes, people want their Guinness, but plenty of tourists also want to follow it up with something else that seems unique or exclusive to the area. The Hairy Lemon does a fine job of offering both experiences, and not just a token ‘extra’ tap – there’s not just a variety of styles from Rye River, but also Murphy’s and the rarer Murphy’s Red.

A terrible picture of the exterior of The Hairy LemonWhile it’s true that when in this general direction we are more often to be found at Caribou, with other beer options in a more ‘bar’ vibe setting, tourists (or anyone else) looking for more of an traditional pub feel are well catered to at The Hairy Lemon. And it comes by its ‘Irish pub’ bona fides honestly: the current all-yellow paintjob may be more recent, but it’s been a pub since at least the mid-19th century. The Hairy Lemon is named for one of Dublin’s many ‘characters’ – like Bang Bang (commemorated in both café and pub form, with Bang Bang in Phibsborough and Dudley’s in The Liberties), The Hairy Lemon was ‘known’ around town, and while he had no specific connection to the pub, it honours his memory, and, more broadly, that of the other long-gone Dublin ‘characters.’

And if on your visit to The Hairy Lemon it seems packed full of tourists at lunchtime, a wander upstairs can be blissfully calm; there are several pleasant nooks and crannies in which to sit with a quiet solo pint, even here in the middle of town.

Where: 41-42 Stephen Street Lower, Dublin 2
Access from the city centre: You are there
Food: Breakfast, pub grub, tourist faves, kids’ menu
Sport: Essentially all of them
TVs: Many all around the pub
Music: Fairly MOR tunes, at least on a weekday afternoon; live music in the evenings
Family-friendliness: Always a fair few kids during the day and evening and plenty of food for them
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Neary’s, Caribou, Bar Rua, The Long Hall, Grogan’s, Peter’s Pub, Sinnot’s Bar and more are all nearby
Local sites of note: Gaiety Theatre, Craft Central (we said what we said), Little Museum of Dublin, George’s Street Arcade, St Stephen’s Green, Grafton Street
Haunted: An appalling lack of good ghost stories
Other notes: Still looks more or less the same as it did when The Commitments was filmed here
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Neary’s

The famous hand-held lamps at Neary'sWhile The Flowing Tide serves as Northside Dublin’s premier theatrical pub, with its close associations with the neighbouring Abbey Theatre (and its short walk to The Gate), Neary’s takes on that role on the Southside for the Gaiety Theatre. Alas, though, one of the finest theatrical tales about Neary’s seems to be a bit of a myth. In Donal Fallon’s excellent new book, The Dublin Pub: A Social and Cultural History (a must-have for any pub nerd), the story of Alan Devlin storming offstage at the Gaiety during a production of HMS Pinafore* and demanding drink at Neary’s is only true…in part.

A glass of O'Hara's upstairs at Neary's

In reality, it seems Devlin only made it as far as Sinnott’s, just steps away…so while Neary’s have claimed the (delightful) story, it’s actually more accurately one that belongs to the whole street. But Neary’s has featured in other legendary activities, too – Nell McCafferty famously led a protest here in 1974, demanding that women be served pints (THINK OF THE CHILDREN), and a version of the story makes its way into the book as well; the good news is that once again, there’s more than a grain of truth here.

The main bar at Neary'sAnd it is, perhaps, fitting that Neary’s is a pub that attracts this kind of lore; its beautifully-maintained interior hearkens back to the 1880s – well, at least in the main bar downstairs – while upstairs, it’s a slightly more updated restaurant feel, but still elegantly understated. The working gas lamps and dumbwaiter inside are well-known historical features, but the literally hand-held lamps outside are iconic.

Despite its history and location next to the Gaiety, it doesn’t feel quite as ‘theatrical’ as The Flowing Tide – the subject of its own chapter in The Dublin Pub – but it wears its literary heritage very well indeed. Pints-wise (and yes, anyone of age can have those pints now), O’Hara’s is the independent option, with the usual Guinness as well. Our small quibble would be the unused/possibly not real hand pumps – regular readers know we feel A Way about cask ale – but they do seem part of the furniture here.

Of course, we’ve only scratched the surface here; Dublin’s pubs have so many fantastical stories – some more fact-based than others – and we cannot recommend Donal’s book highly enough. Consider this your call to action to pick up a copy if you have not already done so!

It’s an ideal read for an afternoon with a book and a solo pint.

Where: 1 Chatham Street
Access from the city centre: You are in it
Food: Sandwiches (toasties and more), salads, oysters
Sport: Not here
TVs: None at all
Music: Quiet jazz upstairs in the Lounge, occasional live sets
Family-friendliness: A surprisingly large number of babies and toddlers mid-afternoon
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Hairy Lemon, Caribou, Bar Rua, The Long Hall, Grogan’s, Peter’s Pub, Sinnott’s Bar and more are all within a short wander
Local sites of note: Gaiety Theatre, Craft Central (absolutely a landmark for the beer nerds), Little Museum of Dublin, George’s Street Arcade, St Stephen’s Green, Grafton Street
Haunted: There’s a story of a deceased punter…so perhaps!
Other notes: While there is the dreaded (by us) Changing Times Hazy IPA, there’s still the aforementioned O’Hara’s
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

 

*FWIW, your fair scribe has been in many productions of HMS Pinafore, and could easily step into essentially any role if need be, as long as some transposing down were a possibility for anything higher than mezzo. But Sir Joseph? Yes, could absolutely do it. And so could our sisters and our cousins and our aunts…

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Long Hall

Exterior of The Long HallIn our effort to fill in the blanks when we see you getting lost in our search results, we’re aiming to visit some of the more common pubs on the tourist trail here and there, now that the bulk of the summer holidaymakers have gone home. Indeed, this week’s pub is one we’ve only ever previously visited in that capacity, years before moving to Dublin: The Long Hall.

The clock at The Long HallVisiting again with more ‘local’ eyes does make you notice different things, but the fundamentals remain the same: the beautifully-maintained – and, in this case, likely genuinely world-famous – exterior of the pub is unmistakable, with its signature red-and-off-white stripes. Inside, it’s the kind of high Victorian décor that is more commonly a pastiche these days, but The Long Hall comes by it honestly: its last real renovation was in the 1880s. And while the deep reds and dark woods are common to many other local Dublin pubs of this vintage – a subject to which we’ll return – there are unique features here, including the much-loved clock, added in 1912.

For us, it ticks more boxes from a musical history perspective – the Phil Lynott and Bruce Springsteen bona fides are legit, though arguably, it’s more the interior (and the central location) that put The Long Hall firmly on the tourist trail. Thinking back to that first visit and why it came so highly recommended, a few memories resurfaced: 1) ‘the quality of the pint of Guinness;’ 2) the very-Victorian feel; and 3) the availability of other local beers – at the time, from McGargle’s (now better-known as Rye River).

A pint of Rye River stout at The Long Hall

Coming back to the first point as a local, there is no objectively ‘best’ pint of Guinness. Yes, there are places where it seems especially appropriate, like The Gravediggers (or, obviously, the Open Gate), but given that fresh Guinness and clean tap lines are essentially a given everywhere, that ‘best’ pint is purely down to atmosphere.  (I said what I said). As a visitor, The Long Hall is certainly a fine spot for one – but it’s also a nice place to enjoy that Rye River pint. Fortunately, that’s still an option – too many other pubs have turfed out long-standing local independent options for their pricey Changing Times beer (looking at you, The Bridge 1859), and while the stout is not bad, there are still too many tap lines here taken up with some of the other Changing Times options – though again, happily there are still other choices available here.

But it’s the middle theme – the Victorian interior – that feels different with more-experienced eyes. If you’re only briefly in town and don’t have the time to explore, The Long Hall is a great spot to see this kind of pub. But once you’ve lived in Dublin for a while – or even just spent significant time here – you’ll know that there are other pubs that are just as ornate, or even more so, but without the tourist crowds (and prices). The Hut and Gaffney’s are just two examples, but especially for the cut-glass enthusiast, we’d suggest visiting those as well for comparison. Both also retain more of their Old Man Pub atmosphere which the tourist crowd dilutes somewhat at The Long Hall, though we’d very much emphasize that this isn’t a tourists-only joint like The Brazen Head, just that there are a lot of them, much of the time, and that’s fine.

So, it’s less of a case of ‘you can never go home again,’ but rather, once a place becomes your home, you find your own regular spots that are likely not those you visited on a quick trip. These days, when I’m in this part of town, Caribou is my usual go-to (after stopping off at Craft Central to re-stock the home fridge, of course), but there’s still plenty to enjoy at The Long Hall, whether you are a local or a newbie. The experience may be a different one with less-fresh eyes, but that’s no bad thing…

Where: 51 South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2, D02 DV74
Access from the city centre: 5ish minute walk or right in it, depending on your point of view
Food: N/A
Sport: N/A
TVs: N/A
Music: Quite a generic playlist
Family-friendliness: Children not allowed – a rare-for-Dublin hard pass for the kids
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Grogan’s, The Hairy Lemon, Caribou, Peter’s Pub, Sinnot’s Bar and Bar Rua are all within stumbling distance, with many more beyond
Local sites of note: George’s Street Arcade, Gaiety Theatre, St Stephen’s Green, Dublin Castle, Chester Beatty, Craft Central (IYKYK)
Haunted: Again, a truly lamentable lack of ghostlore for a pub of this age
Other notes: There’s air con! And main-floor toilets, but not always in the most agreeable condition
Socials: Facebook, Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Harty’s Bar

The streetscape at Harty's Bar, with Tapped to its rightCask ale, as we have often complained, is something of a rarity in Ireland. While there are a few more pubs with a regular cask offering up in Belfast, here in Dublin, it is simply not a regular feature in most pubs. Happily, though, a tipoff from a reader (cheers, Ciaran!) alerted us to a beer engine in regular use at Harty’s Bar. Naturally, we dropped everything to go investigate.

A pint of Brehon Blonde next to the hand pumpOne reason this pub had not been on our radar is that, appearances notwithstanding, it’s a fairly new establishment (but also not; bear with us) – until about 18 months ago, it was the Dingle Whiskey Bar. But like its neighbour, Tapped, with whom it shares a kitchen and menu, it has had a variety of identities, both before and throughout its tenure in the broader Porterhouse portfolio. Now described as ‘a country pub in the big smoke,’ its most recent refit leans into low light, dark woods and deep reds. It also seems smaller than during its whiskey days, but we’re not certain whether this is an accurate feeling or some kind of MR James ‘Number 13’ effect happening. In any event, there’s still plenty of Dingle Whiskey, also part of the Porterhouse group, as well as others.

A view into Harty's BarWhile it doesn’t have the selection of beers next door in Tapped, with its enormous bar, for a small space, it has a good lineup of some of the more standard Porterhouse beers – the Plain Porter, Yippy IPA and Red – as well as Trouble’s Ambush. There’s also Guinness, of course, and Beamish. But as you know, we were here for the cask option: this week, it was Brehon Brewhouse’s Blonde. And cask is a great way to serve this beer; it helps bring out a bit more of the biscuity malts that are a bit harder to notice when it’s poured from a can. The bartender shared that it’s more commonly the Stony Grey IPA on the hand pump, so it was a nice changeup.

And although you can still count the pubs in Dublin with working beer engines on one hand, it’s nice to know that we are at least back to having at least 1-2 cask options available on nearly any day of the week…if you know where to go.

And to that end, we’ve added a new category: cask.

Enjoy!

Where: 44 Nassau St, Dublin, D02 YY44
Access from the city centre: Right there
Food: Pub grub and beyond
Sport: Football, GAA…the usual big sports
TVs: Small screen near the bar
Music: No music on our visit; sport instead
Family-friendliness: Depends on the time of day, but there is food
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Tapped is next door, and McDaid’s, Bowes, O’Neill’s, Cassidy’s, Mulligans, The Palace Bar, JR Mahon’s, The Oval Bar, Porterhouse Temple Bar, Kennedy’s and many, many more are all within a very short stroll
Local sites of note: Trinity College, National Library of Ireland, National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology and The Dead Zoo), Leinster House, Irish Whiskey Museum, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM
Haunted: Perhaps the revamp was too recent for ghosts?
Other notes: There’s even working air con…more rare still than cask ale
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: McDaid’s

Outside McDaid'sIt’s time for another one of our rare trips into Dublin city centre proper with a visit to McDaid’s, a pub with a fine literary heritage. Granted, there are many, many pubs here with similar claims to fame, but most do come by it quite honestly. There’s the requisite Brendan Behan connection (this is a pub, after all), but it was also a haunt of Seamus Heaney, Patrick Kavanagh, Flann O’Brien, and J.P. Donleavy, before there was something of a writerly migration to Grogan’s in the 1970s.

The bar at McDaid's

Inside, the feel is ‘classic Irish pub’ in a more weathered, relaxed way than you find elsewhere in this part of town; the crowds are spilling out onto the footpath at Kehoe’s, but it’s it bit calmer at McDaid’s. There are some lovely tiles all around the pub, and the dark wood and red leather is cosy and lived-in. The usual Guinness is available and well-kept, and there’s an O’Hara’s tap for the indie beer fan – something that is far from guaranteed in this part of Dublin.

An O'Hara's at McDaid'sIt would be interesting to do a deeper dive into the history of the building and previous pubs trading on this site…the ‘est 1779’ above the door has little to do with the current incarnation of the pub, which is a mid-20th century affair, and the building that houses it is from the late 19th century. There are several ‘facts’ traded around about its past (‘former morgue!’ ‘Moravian chapel!’) which likely have the odd grains of truth here and there – the stained glass and frontage do have an ecclesiastical feel – but one does wonder where the 1779 date came from.

Still, we wouldn’t want to get in the way of a good story, especially in a pub with such a storied past; it’s often a blissfully-chill spot in an area that can be heaving with tourists and students. A good ghost story wouldn’t go amiss.

Where: 3 Harry St, Dublin, D02 NC42
Access from the city centre: In it
Food: Crisps
Sport: On when there’s a big game
TVs: Above the main entry
Music: Bit of an MOR playlist
Family-friendliness: Not really ideal for the littles
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Kehoe’s, Grogan’s, The Hairy Lemon, The Long Hall, Tapped, Bruxelles, Neary’s, Bar Rua, Davy Byrne’s…and many, many more
Local sites of note: Grafton Street, Gaiety Theatre, St Stephen’s Green, Trinity College, National Gallery, National Library of Ireland, National Museum of Archaeology, Leinster House, Little Museum of Dublin
Haunted: Seems odd there isn’t a literary ghost story
Other notes: Worryingly narrow stairs up to the toilets
Socials: None in general usage

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Kennedy’s

The exterior of Kennedy's on Westland RowThis week, it’s another relatively rare visit into the more touristy part of town as we visit Kennedy’s, a pub adjacent to both Trinity College and Sweny’s Pharmacy. The literary associations here are more Wilde, Beckett and Joyce than Behan, compared to pubs on the Northside. And yes, and prices are higher, given the location, but that’s to be expected around these parts.

A glass of Ambush inside Kennedy'sKennedy’s is another pub I’ve walked past many times without entering, but I finally had a bit of free time in the area this week, so stopped in for a sneaky daytime glass after visiting the National Gallery. While not nearly as extensive a list of craft beer taps as nearby Tapped, there’s a good selection of local independent beers from Trouble, Wicklow Wolf and more – enough to give any tourists an idea that there’s more to Irish beer than just Guinness, though obviously, there’s plenty of that (and the 0.0 as well). And unsurprisingly, the pub felt very tourist-heavy, early on a weekday afternoon – but then, that’s who is free to do day-drinking at that time. And while Kennedy’s quite sensibly leans into its writerly history in its décor, it does come by this honestly; it’s been a pub since 1850, and the young Oscar Wilde does seem to have worked here for a brief period.

The basement bar, Kennedy's StationThere’s a lovely tiled bar in the basement for live music and events, and this space as well as the terra cotta decoration on the pub’s exterior add unique touches, while the rest of the interior feels a bit more ‘standard Irish pub.’ All told, it’s probably more of a destination for those on literary walking tours than anything else, but it’s nice to find a spot in tourist-land with a few craft beers; it’s not necessarily a given in Dublin.

And yes (I said yes), you can buy the lemon soap at Sweny’s, either before or after your stop at Kennedy’s.

Where: 30-32 Westland Row, Dublin 2, D02 DP70
Access from the city centre: You are there
Food: Pub grub
Sport: All the sport, especially football
TVs: Quite a few around the pub
Music: Classic rock on our visit, but check the socials for live music
Family-friendliness: No specific children’s menu, but there are chicken goujons
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – The Ginger Man and Lincoln’s Inn are nearby, or wander to the other side of Trinity College for O’Neill’s, Tapped, Bowes and more
Local sites of note: Trinity College, Merrion Square, National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology), National Library of Ireland, National Gallery of Ireland
Haunted: Could do with a story or two – make it as ‘literary’ as you like
Other notes: Lots of acoustic tiles, for some reason
Socials: Instagram, Facebook