Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The 1884

Outside The 1884The 1884 is so called after the year that the GAA was founded, and it is very much a sporty pub. And while the GAA is the most-represented sporting genre on the walls and in the niches, there’s plenty of (association) football on the screens as well, especially on a weekend visit such as our recent one.

GAA decor in The 1884And like many pubs in the more suburban parts of Dublin, it’s absolutely enormous inside – indeed, somewhat barn-like. But it’s all very tidy, and there’s plenty of space to spread out. There are much-appreciated coat hooks under the bar, which really should be standard everywhere, but here we are. Only a few years ago, this pub was known as Grainger’s, and it had, well, a reputation, and although there are a few reminders of that era, it seemed generally ‘neighbourhood-pubby’ on our visit.

The beer garden at The 1884And while the beer selection is mostly the usual Guinness-and-Heineken-and-so-so-much-Rockshore (despite being listed as a stockist of Hope, brewed just a bit further north), there is also the lesser-spotted Kilkenny, which has been popping up here and there of late, and it’s a nice alternative. The real hidden gem of The 1884, though, is the enormous beer garden out back. Yes, there is a Pavement Pints option out front, right on the busy road, but if you head to the back, there is a wide range of covered and uncovered seating options.

Marino may not be much of a tourist destination (despite its legitimately interesting history from a city planning perspective, as well as its outstanding – and free – Casino Marino), but for the visitor looking for an almost-certainly tourist-free locals’ pub, The 1884 might be what they are looking for.

Where: 74 Malahide Road, Dublin 3, Marino, Dublin, IE D03 XW54
Access from the city centre: Buses 9, 13, 14, 15, 27A, 27B, 83, 123, 151
Food: Pub grub, wraps, crisps
Sport: All the sport, though mostly-GAA decor
TVs: Many screens all around the pub
Music: Live music at weekends
Family-friendliness: KEEP THEM SEATED
Pub-crawl-ability: Low – a longish walk to The Strand House and Gaffney’s, or toward The Ivy House and The Cat & Cage
Local sites of note: Casino Marino, Griffith Avenue, Bram Stoker’s birthplace, Fairview Park
Haunted: Perhaps only by talk of the previous pub…
Other notes: Main-floor toilets
Socials: Facebook, Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Bernard Shaw

Exterior of The Bernard Shaw

Despite walking past it multiple times a day most days, we’ve not had occasion to call in to The Bernard Shaw recently. This part of Dublin – the Phibsborough/Glasnevin border – is already well-served with great pubs like The Bald Eagle just across the canal, more food-forward spots like The Botanic around the corner, and world-renowned spots like The Gravediggers within a short walk. And so despite having an interesting selection of food vendors in its adjoining Eatyard, The Bernard Shaw is rarely top of mind as a spot for a quiet (or loud) drink or a family meal. True, they do have a drag brunch that we’ve heard is good fun, but the in-house food and drinks are always mentioned as not quite up to par for the neighbourhood, especially for the price.

And perhaps the fact that it doesn’t feel  much like, well, a pub is part of the issue; in its previous incarnation in Rathmines, it had a variety of spaces and programming options, but it still felt very much like a (rather scruffy) pub. However, that closed in 2019, and it moved to the current spot, a former Porterhouse location, not terribly long after. But much about the interior feels very much temporary: colourful cardboard dividers, upstairs and downstairs spaces closed off at some times and not others, and even the Eatyard itself is sometimes table service, sometimes walk-up, and it’s never entirely clear which is which or what is on offer when.

Inside one end of The Bernard ShawWhile it does have a theoretically reasonably interesting drinks lineup, like its fellow Bodytonic-managed bar, The Back Page, sometimes quite a few taps are not in working order – but again, other times, it’s all fine. But if all is present and correct, there are usually multiple Kinnegar choices, an Outcider tap and the more usual Guinness and Beamish, plus cocktails. Between the two locations, we tend to go to The Back Page more often: it has a more distinct identity as a spot for watching soccer and some more obscure sport, and the pizza is consistently pretty decent.

A beer on a table at The Bernard ShawIt is, of course, entirely possible that it’s simply aiming for a younger/cooler demographic, which is fair enough…though it does beg the question as to why there’s a mural of Peter Fonda on one side of the building…it’s not something that resonates with GenXers like us…are the younger Millennials into Easy Rider? We’ve been told it’s a ‘no’ from Gen Z: ‘…it’s no Taxi Driver.’

But we actually *do* quite enjoy some of the events that take place at The Bernard Shaw – there are handy record fairs, local community art markets and so on that are great to have in the neighbourhood; we may just go elsewhere for that ‘pub’ experience after. But with so many to choose from in this area, there’s absolutely something for everyone.

Where: Cross Guns Bridge, Dublin, D09 XW44
Access from the city centre: Buses 9, 40, 46A, 83, 140; Luas Green Line; 30ish minute walk
Food: Breakfast, lunch, dumplings, hot dogs
Sport: Big events shown: Rugby, football, etc
TVs: Scattered around
Music: The hipster music vibes are strong
Family-friendliness: Children around at the usual times
Pub-crawl-ability: High. Multiple options nearby: The Bald Eagle, The Brian Boru, Doyle's Corner, The Boh, The Hut and The Back Page in one direction, with The Botanic, The Gravediggers and The Tolka House in the other…
Local sites of note: Royal Canal Greenway, National Botanic Gardens, Glasnevin Cemetery, Mountjoy Prison, Dalymount Park
Haunted: Oddly, no ghosts obviously associated with the nearby Cross Guns Bridge
Other notes: Toilets are very much not accessible
Socials: Facebook, Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Jack O’Rourke’s

A quick sideways glance at Jack O'Rourke's from the outsideWe know that we tend to be biased toward pubs on the north side of the Liffey, but this week, we travel (relatively) far into south Dublin – all the way to Blackrock and . Once a quiet fishing village with a sideline in early modern highway robbery, Blackrock is now one of the bougier parts of suburban Dublin, as evidenced by it now being labelled Blackrock Village (with a capital ‘V’). But given its handy coastal location and useful DART station, it’s no surprise that this area, with its mix of historic homes and railway development, would have become spot for both day-trippers and locals.

The bar at Jack O'Rourke'sAnd while the town Village centre is not huge, it has an excellent off-license in the form of Blackrock Cellar, as well as some other independent stores, though there is not a vast array of pubs. Happily, though Jack O’Rourke’s serves many constituencies very well indeed. The pub is beautifully decorated in a broadly high Victorian style, with plenty of stained glass and deep colours. Indeed, records suggest that there has been an inn or pub here since at least the 18th century, which fits well with tales of highwaymen and shipwrecks that are tied to Blackrock. But Jack O’Rourke’s is very much a family pub, now in its fourth generation under the care of the O’Rourkes, and its design and décor fit well with the ‘1897’ date on the façade.

Pints of Hope and Wicklow Wolf at Jack O'Rourke'sThere are some lovely little snugs and the pub also has a bit of a nautical bent – the seafront is right here, after all – but it’s very welcoming to all; the standard Guinness (and Beamish!) is on offer, and there is good support for independent offerings like Hope and Wicklow Wolf, as well as Legacy Cider – craft ciders are especially hard to find across Ireland, so this is a nice bonus for fans of the apple.

All told, it’s a real gem of a pub: something of a combination of the best aspects of an Old Man Pub, paired with a welcoming atmosphere for well-behaved children, good food, local beer and excellent service. Well worth the trip on the Dart!

Where: 15 Main St, Blackrock, Dublin, A94 HN66
Access from the city centre: Buses 4, 7, 7A, DART
Food: Pub grub
Sport: Major events shown
TVs: Scattered around the pub
Music: Fairly MOR soundtrack in the background, never too loud for easy conversation
Family-friendliness: Children welcome
Pub-crawl-ability: Low – local spots like The Blackrock and The Wicked Wolf are nearby, but it’s a small selection without travel further afield
Local sites of note: Frascati Shopping Centre, Blackrock Park, Blackrock Historic Baths
Haunted: There were two massive shipwrecks just off the coast here…
Other notes: Rock Shandy was invented here – iconic!
Socials: N/A

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Best Pubs for Kids

Mac & cheese and a pint at Dudley'sIrish pubs are, broadly speaking, welcoming to all ages during the day and early evening – or, at least, they are more often than not, compared to pubs and pub-adjacent spaces in the UK or US (the never-ending ‘kids in taprooms’ debate there notwithstanding). Dublin has a wealth of pubs that are especially good at catering to families, whether it’s for a meal or just a relaxing pint for the adults and a Coke or Club Orange for the kids.

But it can be a bit confusing for the tourist; many especially family-welcoming spots may also have a ‘strictly over 21s’ sign outside (despite the legal drinking age being 18), which might seem at odds with the high chairs and kids’ meals on offer. In these instances, it’s not *actual children* with their parents who aren’t getting in. Rather, it’s all about The Youths – they can come back in unaccompanied once they’ve developed their frontal cortexes a bit more. Most, though not all, of these pubs tend to operate via a table service model, but you can also just go up to the bar as well.

So, if you’re looking for well-tested spots for the whole family, fear not – we’ve done years of research for you. Whether it’s a special occasion meal or more of a standard chicken-goujons-and-chips evening out, there are pubs that run the full spectrum. Let’s begin.

Light and wall paneling at JR Mahon'sIn the city centre, it might be useful to navigate by proximity to a few tourist attractions. If Temple Bar is on your list, but this is a family trip and not a stag or hen do, The Porterhouse gets you close to the action, albeit without as much messiness – there may even be a daytime trad session. It’s also a handy spot before or after a Vintage Tea Trips excursion, as the buses typically stop just outside. If, for some reason, you have children who desperately wanted to visit the NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, JR Mahon’s is a useful spot, and it’s a short stroll from there to Trinity College or the National Gallery. Continuing in that direction – and toward the National Museum of Ireland (the archaeology one, with the bog bodies, of course), Doheny and Nesbitt and Kennedy’s are used to catering to families.

Further south – and closer to the Aviva, if you’re here for a match – The Old Spot is one of our favourite ‘special occasion’ pubs, and children are warmly welcomed. The Merry Cobbler is also a family-friendly location, and going all the way out to Dundrum on the Luas you’ll find The Brickyard, which is ideal with kids of all ages – but let’s head back toward the centre of town.

Dublinia is a great museum for kids, and there are quite a few pubs in this part of Dublin that are perfect after an afternoon of sightseeing-with-the-small-folk (and you may need to sit down for a while if they’ve also been marched through the Guinness Storehouse). The Christchurch Inn is one of many spots in The Liberties that work well, but there is also Molly’s Bar – we’ll come back to how handy Galway Bay pubs are for families in a moment – and Dudley’s, which also has a mac & cheese that is picky-kid tested and approved. If Kilmainham Gaol is on your itinerary, the nearby Old Royal Oak does a mean toastie, and you could take various buses from here to The Circular or Rascals – also on our S-tier list.

Outside Hynes' BarGoing north of the river, Nancy Hands is good for refreshing and dining after a trip to Dublin Zoo, and Stoneybatter is full of great pubs for all. Hynes’ Bar and The Barber’s Bar both have tasty Asian street food options that kids love, if you’ve exhausted the usual burger-or-goujons choices, and L. Mulligan. Grocer is also on our ‘special night out’ list for its fantastic food and warm welcome. If you’re looking for something before or after a film at The Lighthouse or a trip to Collins Barracks, Bonobo’s pizza works, and there are toasties at The King’s Inn – the little snugs are also cosy and can help keep smaller folk contained.

There are restaurants and pubs of all sorts on Capel Street, but we’ll highlight another Galway Bay pub here with The Black Sheep. All Galway Bay pubs have a standard kids’ menu – adding bacon to the mac & cheese is a nice touch – but The Black Sheep is especially nice as they also have board games, and are very close to a number of game and comic shops.

Holidays at The Cat & Cage - always great for all the familyIf you’ve brought the family to Croke Park for a game, or perhaps just the excellent museum and tour, you are spoiled for choice in Drumcondra and Phibsborough, presuming you can nudge everyone up or down the easy canal walk, or via the playground in Griffith Park. The Cat & Cage has another well-tested children’s menu, and the mac & cheese suppli are big hits. Fagan’s has the carvery, if that’s your thing, and The Botanic even has weekend brunch with slatherings of Nutella nowadays. The Bald Eagle is a favourite – kids love the action-figure décor as well as the food – and The Back Page’s arcade section is in regular circulation for all-ages parties.

To finish heading back toward the city centre, Urban Brewing is practically on top of EPIC and the Jeanie Johnston, and in case you’re doing some shopping near O’Connell Street, The Morris Bar has a great kids’ pizza as well as excellent grown-up versions, and TP Smith’s is an oasis of calm after hitting The Jervis Centre.

In summary, there’s no shortage of good pubs to go to, even with the kids in tow, but we do have some favourites from the list above. For great pizza, we love Rascals and The Morris Bar. For a chill weekend meal, it’s over to The Cat & Cage or The Bald Eagle, and for cask ale and food after comic book shopping, it’s The Black Sheep. Special occasions are all about L. Mulligan. Grocer or The Old Spot, and it’s worth keeping an eye on the seasonal events at Brickyard for all-ages menu fun (and great beer).

Looking for more Best Pubs For… ideas? WE GOT YOU.

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Kodiak

A menu, candle and beer at KodiakThe recent run of warm weather has led to prioritising pubs with lovely beer gardens that we haven’t yet visited, and the news that the Animal Collective group – they of Bonobo and Caribou fame – will be opening another location soon(ish) in Bolands Mills* bumped a trip to Kodiak higher up on the list. And it does involve a bit of a ‘trip’ – not just south of the river, but south of Dublin city centre, too. And so, to leafy Rathmines.

For the uninitiated, Rathmines has something of a dual reputation as both ‘Flatland,’ with many of the large, 19th century homes subdivided, but it seems to have more recently become a destination close-in suburb for more well-to-do families, many of whom have reconstituted some of those homes; there is no shortage of trees, nor of high-end prams; comparisons to Park Slope in Brooklyn or Wandsworth in London would both be apt. Kodiak fits perfectly into this mix, with its great beer and cocktails, wide array of plants dotted throughout the bar and a mix of different seating areas, from long tables to cosy sofas and chairs with lots of antique lamps and the like. Yes, it would probably be just as ‘at home’ in London or New York, but it does have a distinctly local vibe, too.

A cosy corner at KodiakA recent BlueSky chat was a reminder that unlike the Neighbouring Island, we have few pubs that are a middle ground between Old Man Pubs, with a standard macro lineup (always Guinness, of course, plus Heineken or perhaps Carlsberg) and ‘hipster’ pubs with interesting craft beers…there’s no direct equivalent of a free house with a mix of standard macros, family brewery offerings on cask (sob) and local indies here in Ireland (with a very few exceptions – TP Smith’s is one that comes to mind). In most cases, if you want something other than Guinness, you need to find your closest local ‘hipster’ pub for more than a unique tap or two, if that. But arguably, perhaps as a result, Dublin’s ‘hipster’ pubs can feel a bit more inclusive than they might in San Francisco or Sarajevo – there’s always a broad mix of ages, genders and styles in places like Kodiak or its sister bars, whereas in similar pubs in some other places, not being a youngish white male with a beard and/or skateboard may make one stand out a bit.

But what makes Kodiak feel like ‘Dublin’ vs ‘Craftonia?’ Certainly, the staff are the first element – friendly and knowledgeable about the local beers, and happy to offer opinions (or make interesting cocktails). The art on the walls is very local and independent – this doesn’t feel like ‘old local maps’ at a Wetherspoons – and the vibe just feels, well, local.

Beer Ladies at KodiakIt’s also worth mentioning just how spacious Kodiak is – the main floor has two full bars, each with its own distinct feel (one darker, one brighter) and tap lineup, so for you beer nerds, check out both, and then there’s the large beer garden at the back. Then there’s even more upstairs (shuffleboard!) – hangout spaces that would be ideal for parties, and the well-designed toilets can be reached via lift or stairs. Indeed, simply by moving around different parts of the pub, you can switch up your experience of the place: start off with a chill solo pint in subdued lighting, then grab some sun with friends.

Finally, there’s that drinks selection we’ve already discussed, but Kodiak deserves a special nod for their fantastic canned and bottled selection; there’s a menu at each table, true, but the tall cases are next to, rather than behind, the bar, so it’s easy to take a proper look to see if there are new additions or special releases.

All told, it’s a shame it’s taken us this long to get to Kodiak – it’s a great spot, and a worthy addition to both the beer garden and craft beer lists.

Where: 304 Rathmines Rd Lower, Rathmines, Dublin, D06 W3Y1
Access from the city centre: Buses 14, 15, 15A, 15B, 65B, 83, 83A, 140, Luas Green Line and a walk from Ranelagh or a c. 40 minute walk
Food: Pizza
Sport: Music-forward, rather than sport-forward
TVs: More foliage than screens
Music: Lots of music the Youths like as well as GenX faves
Family-friendliness: Plenty of space for late-afternoon weekend pizza with the kids, but a grownup vibe later
Pub-crawl-ability: Low-medium – Rody Boland’s, Mother Reilly’s, Murphy’s, and Martin B Slattery’s are all local haunts, but not many other ‘destination’ pubs, and a bit of a walk into Ranelagh for more
Local sites of note: Stella Cinema, Cathal Brugha Barracks
Haunted: Not a creak or moan of note
Other notes: High on the ‘beer garden’ list; dog-friendly
Socials: Instagram

*Another Grindstone Café, from the team behind Brickyard, is also in the works at Bolands Mills

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Nancy Hands

Outside Nancy HandsNancy Hands is an interesting pub in that it manages to feel like a local haunt and a tourist bar, but not necessarily at the same time. It has something of an advantage in its size – it can easily accommodate coach parties across its many and various spaces, and the tour groups can be reasonably quarantined from other pub-goers, while still enjoying the well-appointed pub. It’s got all the standard late 19th/early 20th century pub accoutrements: dark wood, well-polished bar, antiques and old advertising, but we wonder if the interesting copper frieze over the door is of more recent vintage – any insights, readers?

A glass of O'Hara's at Nancy HandsThe staircase formerly connected floors in Trinity College, and the beer garden out back can even be heated when necessary (though as with so many of the more interior-feeling beer gardens in Dublin, it can tend toward feeling very smoky). All told, it feels very ‘pubby,’ but what strikes me is the very noticeable vibe shift when the tour groups leave. It took a few visits to realise that it wasn’t just the freeing up of part of the pub that made the real difference; rather, it was the music. When the groups are in, the music is not just trad (there is, after all, plenty of good trad out there), but full-on diddly-eye trad – the sort of music that might have been featured on an American PBS station 40+ years ago. But once they go, there’s a break – either no music, or a change to something a bit more current. Perhaps it’s coincidence, but it’s something we’ve noticed on multiple visits – and it’s no bad thing!

'Nancy Hands' in stained glass behind the barNow, this is not to say that some of the more touristy pubs are doing their customers a disservice in any way; to the contrary, they are doing a great job of catering to multiple demographics, and more power to them. And Nancy Hands also does a great job of supporting local writers – Ali Dunworth’s excellent A Compendium of Irish Pints and our own Beer Ladies Podcast co-host Christina Wade’s Filthy Queens both feature prominently behind the bar – ideal gifts for locals and tourists alike! And while it would be nice to see a few more local independent beers on tap, the O’Hara’s is fresh and tasty, so a welcome sight.

All told, a great spot to stop in on the way to or from the Phoenix Park.

Where: 30-32 Parkgate St, Stoneybatter, Dublin 8, D08 W6X3
Access from the city centre: Buses C1/C2/C4, 4, 13, 26, 60, 69, Luas Red Line, 35ish minute walk
Food: Broad pub grub, toasties, international, ‘tourist’ and kids’ menus
Sport: All the major sport
TVs: Plenty about the pub
Music: Trad and Not trad (check the socials for live sessions)
Family-friendliness: All ages welcomed & fed
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium: while right next to Ryan’s of Parkgate Street and P.Duggan’s, with the Galway Hooker at Heuston Station, it’s a bit of a longer walk to Urban8 or the Old Royal Oak. Also possible to walk to the main pubs of Stoneybatter, or you could stroll to the Liberties to the Guinness Open Gate; also handy to hop the bus to The Saint and Rascals in Inchicore
Local sites of note: Criminal Courts of Justice, Croppies Acre, Phoenix Park, Heuston Station, Guinness Storehouse, IMMA, Collins Barracks, Kilmainham Gaol
Haunted: Did ‘Nancy Hands’ exist? The stained glass is nice, but if she did, she almost certainly haunts a different building
Other notes: Dogs are welcome. This is (kinda) Stoneybatter, after all
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Old Royal Oak

Outside the Old Royal OakAs a rule, I’m more of an urban-pub person than a rural-pub person. But while The Old Royal Oak describes itself as ‘a country pub in the city,’ its thoroughly welcoming atmosphere means this is all in the positive column. Tucked away on one of the slightly labyrinthine streets that make up Kilmainham, The Old Royal Oak very much gives the appearance of a building and streetscape that predates the car, and, before that, never even really welcomed the carriage. There are only so many parts of Dublin that the Wide Streets Commission didn’t ‘improve,’ but, happily, this is one of them.

The somewhat-peculiar siting of the pub (here since 1839, so indeed ‘old’ by most measures) at the crest of a hill means that it now has just enough outdoor space to create a lovely little beer garden. True, cars creep up the hill just centimetres away, but they can’t really go at a meaningful speed here, so they aren’t too distracting.

Inside The Old Royal OakInside, the look is all Old Man Pub, but with a more diverse clientele of all ages, genders and dog breeds. There’s also good support for local independent beer from Rye River, but they also get accolades a-plenty for the Guinness here. On our visit, the hurling was on (ironically, I was trying to get as far from Croke Park as possible to avoid the hurling crowds nearer my house), and friendly rivalries prevailed. There’s a tiny snug hidden away in the basement for a quieter session, and toasties at the ready.

In many ways, this may well be the Platonic ideal of an Irish pub, with none of the twee Paddywhackery you see in the more tourist-attracting parts of town – no shortage of Guinness, lots of regulars, an interior with plenty of sepia tones, some GAA jerseys and happy dogs.

It’s hard (well, for me) to get good pictures because of the crowds, but that’s a good sign. All told, an absolutely delightful spot.

Where: High Road, 11 Kilmainham Lane, Dublin, IE D08 DK2K
Access from the city centre: Buses C1/C2/C3/C4, 13, 60, 68A, 123, G1, G2, Luas Red Line, 40ish minute walk
Food: Toasties, crisps
Sport: GAA, footy
TVs: A few here and there
Music: A broad mix
Family-friendliness: All ages welcomed (and dogs, too)
Pub-crawl-ability: Low-medium…Urban8 is the closest, with a bit of a walk back toward the Phoenix Park-adjacent pubs, as well as one end of the Liberties with the Guinness Open Gate; or, hop the bus to The Saint and Rascals
Local sites of note: Kilmainham Gaol, Royal Kilmainham Hospital, IMMA, Richmond Barracks, Phoenix Park
Haunted: Seems a ghost would be welcome, as long as it were sound
Other notes: Interesting to see Asahi for the lager fans
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Best Pubs for Croke Park

Croke Park in the distance, seen from the Cherry Tomato BridgeIt’s that time of year when we begin to get the ‘where should I go before Croke Park?’ question. The answers will depend on whether you’re pre- or post-gaming an actual game (and, of course, which sort of actual game – the occasional rugby crowd isn’t necessarily the same as the more usual GAA crowd) or a concert. Fortunately, as a household within the ‘so close to Croke Park we get free tickets to things* from time to time’ radius, we’ve got some educated opinions on which pubs to hit up before, say, Oasis. (I was going to say ‘before Oasis hit each other,’ but it was too lazy, so it’s parenthetical instead).

Outside Gill's Pub: The GAA muralThere are a few ways to approach the Croke Park Pubs question: proximity, food/drink options and, well, vibes. If wanting to be in the closest possible pub is your key consideration – and on a day when it’s 70,000 plus in attendance, it’s not unreasonable – your best bets are Gill’s Corner House (if it’s open) or Phil Ryan’s The Hogan Stand. There’s Guinness a-plenty at both, though that’s true of nearly every pub in the country, but you can also snag a sneaky O’Hara’s bottle at Gill’s Corner House, or a Beamish at The Hogan Stand.

The bar at The Bald EagleIf combining food and drink is of paramount importance, casting a wider net can help, but you can still start quite close by. Juno/Hera has their gorgeous restaurant menu, but on big event days, they frequently fire up the grill for more quick-service options. You can also head further up the canal into Phibsborough, with The Bald Eagle and The Botanic House offering full meals (both are kid-friendly as well), or there’s excellent pizza from Vice now at Doyle’s Corner. The Boh has their combination Indian/pub grub menu, or there’s the little food market at The Bernard Shaw. And like The Bald Eagle, Hedigan’s The Brian Boru has a lovely beer garden, so it’s a pleasant place to relax with your pre-event meal and pint(s) if the weather cooperates. You could walk that little bit further down to The Back Page, too, if you’ve got the time. Or, away from Phibsborough, The Cat and Cage is just far enough away to avoid the worst of the crowds, but still close enough that it’s an easy stroll to Croke Park – it’s another family-friendly option with good craft beer choices and food for all. Fagan’s is on the way back toward the stadium, though still in Drumcondra, and on a busy day, the crowds spread into the park across the road or into Kennedy’s, just a few doors down (which, incidentally, is open for breakfast).

Heading back toward Croke Park, McGrath’s Pub also fills up on game days with the usual Guinness-and-Heineken offerings, but its handy off-license maintains a very nice selection of local craft beer, including options from Whiplash, Rascals and more. I’m not suggesting you might want to grab some cans to sip along the canal or in one of the nearby parks, I’ll just say you wouldn’t be alone in that sort of endeavour (but please don’t dump your empty cans in my front garden, we get enough of that on busy days). There is also The Big Tree, seemingly only open when something is on at Croke Park, but it seems to be catering more to the crowd staying in the attached Dublin One hotel for said events in most regards. We should not, of course, ignore the other end of Croke Park – Clonliffe House is another option for Guinness and a beer garden, and it gives one the chance to take in the Luke Kelly Bridge as well, if that’s of interest. In Fairview, Gaffney’s and The Strand House can also set you up for the day (or night) – with food on offer, too, at the latter.

And from the vibes perspective, you can choose a spot like The Hut (also in Phibsborough) or Gill’s Corner House if it’s an Old Man Pub you’re after. For families, we’d suggest The Cat & Cage or The Bald Eagle, or if you’re looking for great music, good beer and a cosy setting, perhaps Juno or Doyle’s Corner is your scene. But in any case, if it’s a table and possibly food you seek, do book in advance, and keep an eye on the socials of pubs you might want to check out for specials or other big-day changes.

But for us locals, the email that comes ahead of Croke Park events, giving advance notice of crowd sizes, street closings and so forth is handy not just as a reminder of what time to run out to buy essentials before the visitors descend, it’s also a good excuse to wander to pubs slightly further afield. It’s worth knowing that Underdog is far enough away to be a safe bet, even on the most hectic concert days…

 

*To answer the obvious questions: 1) no, you can’t sell the tickets on for vast sums and 2) sometimes it’s something you’d never dream of seeing, like Garth Brooks, and you simply politely decline.

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Brew Dock

The Brew Dock, drenched in too much sunYes, you can get a Guinness at most (all?) Galway Bay pubs nowadays, and that includes The Brew Dock.

It wasn’t always the case, but even compared to other Galway Bay pubs around Dublin, the beer lineup at The Brew Dock can be somewhat hit and miss at present. Some of the taps these days are the usual fine Galway Bay choices – something we’ll return to in a moment, and there are usually a few local guest beers, too, from the likes of Third Barrel and Rascals. But if it’s cheap Eurolagers you’re after, there’s also Veltins and some other macros taking up tap space. In itself, this is, perhaps, not a surprise. This pub is reasonably handy for both Busáras* and Connolly Station, neither of which is overendowed with pleasant places to wait for your bus or train, so it’s not going to be only a craft beer nerd hangout.

The bar at The Brew DockBut all too often on recent visits, there are multiple taps out of service or perhaps not as fresh as they might be – a real contrast to years gone by when this was a destination for beer nerds for the variety and vibrancy of the beers on offer, both from Galway Bay itself as well as other independent brewers from near and far. And it does seem that Galway Bay are making some especially interesting seasonal, one-off and collaboration beers of late, so it’s a shame that they rarely seem to be highlighted here.

Upstairs at The Brew DockAnd to be clear, I haven’t had a bad experience here, but the pub does look and feel, well, tired. It’s possibly unfair to compare it to a brand-new Galway Bay pub like Molly’s, which still has its coat of fresh paint, or a stalwart like The Black Sheep which is constantly rotating its beers (including a fairly-frequent weekend cask option again) but it does feel like The Brew Dock could use a bit of a spruce-up.

The area immediately around the pub has a similar issue in terms of needing a tidy-up, so one wonders if it’s something seeping in from outside. But to end on a positive note, all the elements are here to see a return to form – let’s hope it happens in the very near future. In the meantime, there are still some lovely pints and nice snacks to be had – it’s a fine spot to pre-game before an event at 3Arena.

*For my fellow Brutalism nerds, let’s talk about the theatre within Busáras, and how awesome it could have been had it been properly funded and finished…

Where: 1 Amiens St, Mountjoy, Dublin 1
Access from the city centre: Buses 14, 15, 15A, 15B, 27, 151, Luas Red Line, 17-ish minute walk
Food: Standard Galway Bay menu
Sport: Football, rugby
TVs: A few here and there
Music: Lots of GenX faves
Family-friendliness: The usual Galway Bay kids’ menu is on offer
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – Urban Brewing is nearby, and Dockers and The Wind Jammer are across the Liffey; The Morris Bar isn’t terribly far, either
Local sites of note: Busáras, Connolly Station, EPIC, Custom House, 3Arena, Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, IFSC
Haunted: The toilets can be a bit creepy
Other notes: The toilets in question are upstairs and always seem a bit off. Let’s blame infrasound?
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Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Urban Brewing

Outside Urban Brewing on Custom House QuayCustom House Quay may not be the first spot that comes to mind when considering ideal pub locations in Dublin, but when the sun is out, it’s difficult to beat Urban Brewing’s beer garden. And given just how few true brewpubs there are in this city – Rascals is really the only other one at present – it’s a great place to enjoy a few pints (or cocktails) in the sun, although there are also very handy shade options, too.

A pint of Urban Brewing beer in the sunAlthough the branding is different, Urban Brewing is an outpost of Carlow Brewing, of O’Hara’s fame, which means that the core O’Hara’s beers are always available, the gorgeous Leann Folláin included (and if you haven’t read Eoghan Walsh’s thoughtful take on that beer, with beautiful illustrations by Mark Hill, you should head to Pellicle and remedy that now). But there is a rotating lineup of exclusive and one-off beers brewed here on site as well – there’s often a mild that’s a delight in warmer weather, and a variety of interesting things to try. There’s also a brewery tour you can book.

And the site is one of the main reasons to visit Urban Brewing: built into a Grade 1-listed former warehouse at Custom House Quay that has been here since at least 1820, it’s an excellent example of thoughtful and creative reuse of a heritage building – something we could really use more of in Dublin (looking at you, Aldborough House). And while I’m probably not the target audience for EPIC (as someone who lives locally, and who has no ‘Irish emigrant’ connections – I’m the opposite here), also housed in this complex, their gift shop is one of the few places on this side of the river where I can buy delicious Brona Chocolates – buy the dark chocolate Salt & Chili and thank me later.

The vaults at Urban BrewingBut what I particularly enjoy about Urban Brewing is that each part of the venue feels very different – the outside space is the go-to when the weather is good, but the modern bar in the old building has a lovely look and feel, while the vaults below are great for events – cosy and always beautifully decorated. And as a newer business in an older building, they’ve had the space to get their accessibility figured out in the retrofitting; there are lifts as well as stairs.

Oddly, in 5+ years of living nearby, I’ve not had the chance to do the brewery tour, but I imagine I’ll get around to that eventually. In the meantime, it’s always a nice surprise to find Emerald Ale, the aforementioned mild, on tap, so it’s well worth the longer walk from my usual haunts…

Where: CHQ Building, Custom House Quay, IFSC, Dublin, D01 Y6P5
Access from the city centre: Buses 14, 15, 15A, 15B, 27, 151, Luas Red Line, 18-ish minute walk
Food: Brunch, flatbreads, cheese board, tapas, sandwiches, ‘elevated’ mains and more
Sport: More pre- or post-sport
TVs: If they are there, they are well-hidden
Music: Always a varied soundtrack inside, harder to hear outside
Family-friendliness: No specific children’s menu, but handy after a tour of EPIC
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – Dockers and The Wind Jammer are across the Liffey, while The Brew Dock is a short walk away; The Morris Bar isn’t terribly far, either
Local sites of note: EPIC, Custom House, 3Arena, Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, Grand Canal Dock
Haunted: The vaults have a lovely, spooky atmosphere
Other notes: There’s also basic Eurolager if that’s your thing, as well as very nice cocktails
Socials: Instagram, Facebook