Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Belfry

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Outside The BelfryStoneybatter has an abundance of riches when it comes to pubs, with classics like The Glimmer Man, Walsh’s and L. Mulligan. Grocer, all within steps of one another – and that’s before you include other fantastic spots like Hynes’ Bar and The Barber’s Bar, just a bit further apart from those three. As a result, it’s taken an absolute age for us to get around to profiling The Belfry, despite it long being on the to-do list.

While the handsome, all-black-painted building has the kind of also-dark colours, subdued lighting and cosy reclaimed furniture that you might find in broadly similar pubs from Carroll Gardens to Dalston, The Belfry – like all its neighbours – feels very much part of the fabric of Stoneybatter. Indeed, one of the reasons we haven’t been able to write it up before now is that on previous attempts to visit, it was too crowded to get halfway-decent pictures; certainly not a bad ‘problem’ for a pub to have. And on every occasion, the lively crowd has been a great mix of locals of all ages, students from the nearby TUD campus and even Olds like us.

Inside The BelfryAnd the attractions are many: great support for local independent beers from the likes of Hope, Kinnegar, Trouble and The White Hag, as well as a notable cocktail list. For the more ‘traditional’ drinker, it’s possible to get Guinness, Beamish and Murphy’s, so if you’re one of those who enjoys doing the blind taste test of all three, The Belfry has you sorted. There’s also a wonderful little beer garden, and plenty of events that are very much rooted in the local community. It was an absolute oasis for this year’s instalment of the always-busy-but-great-vibes Stoneybatter Festival (yes, you could park your child inside for them to have a sit-down and a snack). This being Stoneybatter, there are always lots of dogs as well. It’s also important to point out that not only is there a main-floor toilet, it’s a properly-accessible one – something of a rarity in much of Dublin.

Part of the beer garden at The BelfryOur only other ‘complaint’ is that The Belfry tends to open later than some other pubs, so it’s not always handy for a quick weekend lunchtime pint. All the more incentive, really, to get there as they open to secure a comfy leather chair and a refreshing beverage…

Where: 37 Stoneybatter, Dublin, D07 X029
Access from the city centre: Buses 37, 39, 39A, 70, 83, 83A; Luas Red Line, 30ish minute walk
Food: Keep an eye on the socials for food trucks and pop-ups
Sport: More music-forward than sport-led
TVs: Well-hidden, if they are there
Music: More modern tunes; even the occasional rave for dogs
Family-friendliness: The hours are not particularly child-friendly, but everyone is welcome during the Stoneybatter Festival
Pub-crawl-ability: High – L. Mulligan. Grocer, The Glimmer Man, The Cobblestone, Hynes’ Bar, The Barber’s Bar & Bonobo are quite close; Fidelity isn’t too much further away
Local sites of note: The Lighthouse Cinema, Arbour Hill Cemetery, TUD Grangegorman
Haunted: Some of the décor does have the ‘haunted object’ look to it (in the best possible way) – perhaps a storytelling jumping-off point?
Other notes: Dogs are welcome, obviously, and the accessible toilet is important
Socials: Instagram, Facebook, TikTok

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Nancy Hands

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Outside Nancy HandsNancy Hands is an interesting pub in that it manages to feel like a local haunt and a tourist bar, but not necessarily at the same time. It has something of an advantage in its size – it can easily accommodate coach parties across its many and various spaces, and the tour groups can be reasonably quarantined from other pub-goers, while still enjoying the well-appointed pub. It’s got all the standard late 19th/early 20th century pub accoutrements: dark wood, well-polished bar, antiques and old advertising, but we wonder if the interesting copper frieze over the door is of more recent vintage – any insights, readers?

A glass of O'Hara's at Nancy HandsThe staircase formerly connected floors in Trinity College, and the beer garden out back can even be heated when necessary (though as with so many of the more interior-feeling beer gardens in Dublin, it can tend toward feeling very smoky). All told, it feels very ‘pubby,’ but what strikes me is the very noticeable vibe shift when the tour groups leave. It took a few visits to realise that it wasn’t just the freeing up of part of the pub that made the real difference; rather, it was the music. When the groups are in, the music is not just trad (there is, after all, plenty of good trad out there), but full-on diddly-eye trad – the sort of music that might have been featured on an American PBS station 40+ years ago. But once they go, there’s a break – either no music, or a change to something a bit more current. Perhaps it’s coincidence, but it’s something we’ve noticed on multiple visits – and it’s no bad thing!

'Nancy Hands' in stained glass behind the barNow, this is not to say that some of the more touristy pubs are doing their customers a disservice in any way; to the contrary, they are doing a great job of catering to multiple demographics, and more power to them. And Nancy Hands also does a great job of supporting local writers – Ali Dunworth’s excellent A Compendium of Irish Pints and our own Beer Ladies Podcast co-host Christina Wade’s Filthy Queens both feature prominently behind the bar – ideal gifts for locals and tourists alike! And while it would be nice to see a few more local independent beers on tap, the O’Hara’s is fresh and tasty, so a welcome sight.

All told, a great spot to stop in on the way to or from the Phoenix Park.

Where: 30-32 Parkgate St, Stoneybatter, Dublin 8, D08 W6X3
Access from the city centre: Buses C1/C2/C4, 4, 13, 26, 60, 69, Luas Red Line, 35ish minute walk
Food: Broad pub grub, toasties, international, ‘tourist’ and kids’ menus
Sport: All the major sport
TVs: Plenty about the pub
Music: Trad and Not trad (check the socials for live sessions)
Family-friendliness: All ages welcomed & fed
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium: while right next to Ryan’s of Parkgate Street and P.Duggan’s, with the Galway Hooker at Heuston Station, it’s a bit of a longer walk to Urban8 or the Old Royal Oak. Also possible to walk to the main pubs of Stoneybatter, or you could stroll to the Liberties to the Guinness Open Gate; also handy to hop the bus to The Saint and Rascals in Inchicore
Local sites of note: Criminal Courts of Justice, Croppies Acre, Phoenix Park, Heuston Station, Guinness Storehouse, IMMA, Collins Barracks, Kilmainham Gaol
Haunted: Did ‘Nancy Hands’ exist? The stained glass is nice, but if she did, she almost certainly haunts a different building
Other notes: Dogs are welcome. This is (kinda) Stoneybatter, after all
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Old Royal Oak

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Outside the Old Royal OakAs a rule, I’m more of an urban-pub person than a rural-pub person. But while The Old Royal Oak describes itself as ‘a country pub in the city,’ its thoroughly welcoming atmosphere means this is all in the positive column. Tucked away on one of the slightly labyrinthine streets that make up Kilmainham, The Old Royal Oak very much gives the appearance of a building and streetscape that predates the car, and, before that, never even really welcomed the carriage. There are only so many parts of Dublin that the Wide Streets Commission didn’t ‘improve,’ but, happily, this is one of them.

The somewhat-peculiar siting of the pub (here since 1839, so indeed ‘old’ by most measures) at the crest of a hill means that it now has just enough outdoor space to create a lovely little beer garden. True, cars creep up the hill just centimetres away, but they can’t really go at a meaningful speed here, so they aren’t too distracting.

Inside The Old Royal OakInside, the look is all Old Man Pub, but with a more diverse clientele of all ages, genders and dog breeds. There’s also good support for local independent beer from Rye River, but they also get accolades a-plenty for the Guinness here. On our visit, the hurling was on (ironically, I was trying to get as far from Croke Park as possible to avoid the hurling crowds nearer my house), and friendly rivalries prevailed. There’s a tiny snug hidden away in the basement for a quieter session, and toasties at the ready.

In many ways, this may well be the Platonic ideal of an Irish pub, with none of the twee Paddywhackery you see in the more tourist-attracting parts of town – no shortage of Guinness, lots of regulars, an interior with plenty of sepia tones, some GAA jerseys and happy dogs.

It’s hard (well, for me) to get good pictures because of the crowds, but that’s a good sign. All told, an absolutely delightful spot.

Where: High Road, 11 Kilmainham Lane, Dublin, IE D08 DK2K
Access from the city centre: Buses C1/C2/C3/C4, 13, 60, 68A, 123, G1, G2, Luas Red Line, 40ish minute walk
Food: Toasties, crisps
Sport: GAA, footy
TVs: A few here and there
Music: A broad mix
Family-friendliness: All ages welcomed (and dogs, too)
Pub-crawl-ability: Low-medium…Urban8 is the closest, with a bit of a walk back toward the Phoenix Park-adjacent pubs, as well as one end of the Liberties with the Guinness Open Gate; or, hop the bus to The Saint and Rascals
Local sites of note: Kilmainham Gaol, Royal Kilmainham Hospital, IMMA, Richmond Barracks, Phoenix Park
Haunted: Seems a ghost would be welcome, as long as it were sound
Other notes: Interesting to see Asahi for the lager fans
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Best Pubs for Croke Park

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Croke Park in the distance, seen from the Cherry Tomato BridgeIt’s that time of year when we begin to get the ‘where should I go before Croke Park?’ question. The answers will depend on whether you’re pre- or post-gaming an actual game (and, of course, which sort of actual game – the occasional rugby crowd isn’t necessarily the same as the more usual GAA crowd) or a concert. Fortunately, as a household within the ‘so close to Croke Park we get free tickets to things* from time to time’ radius, we’ve got some educated opinions on which pubs to hit up before, say, Oasis. (I was going to say ‘before Oasis hit each other,’ but it was too lazy, so it’s parenthetical instead).

Outside Gill's Pub: The GAA muralThere are a few ways to approach the Croke Park Pubs question: proximity, food/drink options and, well, vibes. If wanting to be in the closest possible pub is your key consideration – and on a day when it’s 70,000 plus in attendance, it’s not unreasonable – your best bets are Gill’s Corner House (if it’s open) or Phil Ryan’s The Hogan Stand. There’s Guinness a-plenty at both, though that’s true of nearly every pub in the country, but you can also snag a sneaky O’Hara’s bottle at Gill’s Corner House, or a Beamish at The Hogan Stand.

The bar at The Bald EagleIf combining food and drink is of paramount importance, casting a wider net can help, but you can still start quite close by. Juno/Hera has their gorgeous restaurant menu, but on big event days, they frequently fire up the grill for more quick-service options. You can also head further up the canal into Phibsborough, with The Bald Eagle and The Botanic House offering full meals (both are kid-friendly as well), or there’s excellent pizza from Vice now at Doyle’s Corner. The Boh has their combination Indian/pub grub menu, or there’s the little food market at The Bernard Shaw. And like The Bald Eagle, Hedigan’s The Brian Boru has a lovely beer garden, so it’s a pleasant place to relax with your pre-event meal and pint(s) if the weather cooperates. You could walk that little bit further down to The Back Page, too, if you’ve got the time. Or, away from Phibsborough, The Cat and Cage is just far enough away to avoid the worst of the crowds, but still close enough that it’s an easy stroll to Croke Park – it’s another family-friendly option with good craft beer choices and food for all. Fagan’s is on the way back toward the stadium, though still in Drumcondra, and on a busy day, the crowds spread into the park across the road or into Kennedy’s, just a few doors down (which, incidentally, is open for breakfast).

Heading back toward Croke Park, McGrath’s Pub also fills up on game days with the usual Guinness-and-Heineken offerings, but its handy off-license maintains a very nice selection of local craft beer, including options from Whiplash, Rascals and more. I’m not suggesting you might want to grab some cans to sip along the canal or in one of the nearby parks, I’ll just say you wouldn’t be alone in that sort of endeavour (but please don’t dump your empty cans in my front garden, we get enough of that on busy days). There is also The Big Tree, seemingly only open when something is on at Croke Park, but it seems to be catering more to the crowd staying in the attached Dublin One hotel for said events in most regards. We should not, of course, ignore the other end of Croke Park – Clonliffe House is another option for Guinness and a beer garden, and it gives one the chance to take in the Luke Kelly Bridge as well, if that’s of interest. In Fairview, Gaffney’s and The Strand House can also set you up for the day (or night) – with food on offer, too, at the latter.

And from the vibes perspective, you can choose a spot like The Hut (also in Phibsborough) or Gill’s Corner House if it’s an Old Man Pub you’re after. For families, we’d suggest The Cat & Cage or The Bald Eagle, or if you’re looking for great music, good beer and a cosy setting, perhaps Juno or Doyle’s Corner is your scene. But in any case, if it’s a table and possibly food you seek, do book in advance, and keep an eye on the socials of pubs you might want to check out for specials or other big-day changes.

But for us locals, the email that comes ahead of Croke Park events, giving advance notice of crowd sizes, street closings and so forth is handy not just as a reminder of what time to run out to buy essentials before the visitors descend, it’s also a good excuse to wander to pubs slightly further afield. It’s worth knowing that Underdog is far enough away to be a safe bet, even on the most hectic concert days…

 

*To answer the obvious questions: 1) no, you can’t sell the tickets on for vast sums and 2) sometimes it’s something you’d never dream of seeing, like Garth Brooks, and you simply politely decline.

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Brew Dock

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The Brew Dock, drenched in too much sunYes, you can get a Guinness at most (all?) Galway Bay pubs nowadays, and that includes The Brew Dock.

It wasn’t always the case, but even compared to other Galway Bay pubs around Dublin, the beer lineup at The Brew Dock can be somewhat hit and miss at present. Some of the taps these days are the usual fine Galway Bay choices – something we’ll return to in a moment, and there are usually a few local guest beers, too, from the likes of Third Barrel and Rascals. But if it’s cheap Eurolagers you’re after, there’s also Veltins and some other macros taking up tap space. In itself, this is, perhaps, not a surprise. This pub is reasonably handy for both Busáras* and Connolly Station, neither of which is overendowed with pleasant places to wait for your bus or train, so it’s not going to be only a craft beer nerd hangout.

The bar at The Brew DockBut all too often on recent visits, there are multiple taps out of service or perhaps not as fresh as they might be – a real contrast to years gone by when this was a destination for beer nerds for the variety and vibrancy of the beers on offer, both from Galway Bay itself as well as other independent brewers from near and far. And it does seem that Galway Bay are making some especially interesting seasonal, one-off and collaboration beers of late, so it’s a shame that they rarely seem to be highlighted here.

Upstairs at The Brew DockAnd to be clear, I haven’t had a bad experience here, but the pub does look and feel, well, tired. It’s possibly unfair to compare it to a brand-new Galway Bay pub like Molly’s, which still has its coat of fresh paint, or a stalwart like The Black Sheep which is constantly rotating its beers (including a fairly-frequent weekend cask option again) but it does feel like The Brew Dock could use a bit of a spruce-up.

The area immediately around the pub has a similar issue in terms of needing a tidy-up, so one wonders if it’s something seeping in from outside. But to end on a positive note, all the elements are here to see a return to form – let’s hope it happens in the very near future. In the meantime, there are still some lovely pints and nice snacks to be had – it’s a fine spot to pre-game before an event at 3Arena.

*For my fellow Brutalism nerds, let’s talk about the theatre within Busáras, and how awesome it could have been had it been properly funded and finished…

Where: 1 Amiens St, Mountjoy, Dublin 1
Access from the city centre: Buses 14, 15, 15A, 15B, 27, 151, Luas Red Line, 17-ish minute walk
Food: Standard Galway Bay menu
Sport: Football, rugby
TVs: A few here and there
Music: Lots of GenX faves
Family-friendliness: The usual Galway Bay kids’ menu is on offer
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – Urban Brewing is nearby, and Dockers and The Wind Jammer are across the Liffey; The Morris Bar isn’t terribly far, either
Local sites of note: Busáras, Connolly Station, EPIC, Custom House, 3Arena, Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, IFSC
Haunted: The toilets can be a bit creepy
Other notes: The toilets in question are upstairs and always seem a bit off. Let’s blame infrasound?
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Urban Brewing

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Outside Urban Brewing on Custom House QuayCustom House Quay may not be the first spot that comes to mind when considering ideal pub locations in Dublin, but when the sun is out, it’s difficult to beat Urban Brewing’s beer garden. And given just how few true brewpubs there are in this city – Rascals is really the only other one at present – it’s a great place to enjoy a few pints (or cocktails) in the sun, although there are also very handy shade options, too.

A pint of Urban Brewing beer in the sunAlthough the branding is different, Urban Brewing is an outpost of Carlow Brewing, of O’Hara’s fame, which means that the core O’Hara’s beers are always available, the gorgeous Leann Folláin included (and if you haven’t read Eoghan Walsh’s thoughtful take on that beer, with beautiful illustrations by Mark Hill, you should head to Pellicle and remedy that now). But there is a rotating lineup of exclusive and one-off beers brewed here on site as well – there’s often a mild that’s a delight in warmer weather, and a variety of interesting things to try. There’s also a brewery tour you can book.

And the site is one of the main reasons to visit Urban Brewing: built into a Grade 1-listed former warehouse at Custom House Quay that has been here since at least 1820, it’s an excellent example of thoughtful and creative reuse of a heritage building – something we could really use more of in Dublin (looking at you, Aldborough House). And while I’m probably not the target audience for EPIC (as someone who lives locally, and who has no ‘Irish emigrant’ connections – I’m the opposite here), also housed in this complex, their gift shop is one of the few places on this side of the river where I can buy delicious Brona Chocolates – buy the dark chocolate Salt & Chili and thank me later.

The vaults at Urban BrewingBut what I particularly enjoy about Urban Brewing is that each part of the venue feels very different – the outside space is the go-to when the weather is good, but the modern bar in the old building has a lovely look and feel, while the vaults below are great for events – cosy and always beautifully decorated. And as a newer business in an older building, they’ve had the space to get their accessibility figured out in the retrofitting; there are lifts as well as stairs.

Oddly, in 5+ years of living nearby, I’ve not had the chance to do the brewery tour, but I imagine I’ll get around to that eventually. In the meantime, it’s always a nice surprise to find Emerald Ale, the aforementioned mild, on tap, so it’s well worth the longer walk from my usual haunts…

Where: CHQ Building, Custom House Quay, IFSC, Dublin, D01 Y6P5
Access from the city centre: Buses 14, 15, 15A, 15B, 27, 151, Luas Red Line, 18-ish minute walk
Food: Brunch, flatbreads, cheese board, tapas, sandwiches, ‘elevated’ mains and more…
Sport: More pre- or post-sport
TVs: If they are there, they are well-hidden
Music: Always a varied soundtrack inside, harder to hear outside
Family-friendliness: No specific children’s menu, but handy after a tour of EPIC
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – Dockers and The Wind Jammer are across the Liffey, while The Brew Dock is a short walk away; The Morris Bar isn’t terribly far, either
Local sites of note: EPIC, Custom House, 3Arena, Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, Grand Canal Dock
Haunted: The vaults have a lovely, spooky atmosphere
Other notes: There’s also basic Eurolager if that’s your thing, as well as very nice cocktails
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Kennedy’s

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The exterior of Kennedy's on Westland RowThis week, it’s another relatively rare visit into the more touristy part of town as we visit Kennedy’s, a pub adjacent to both Trinity College and Sweny’s Pharmacy. The literary associations here are more Wilde, Beckett and Joyce than Behan, compared to pubs on the Northside. And yes, and prices are higher, given the location, but that’s to be expected around these parts.

A glass of Ambush inside Kennedy'sKennedy’s is another pub I’ve walked past many times without entering, but I finally had a bit of free time in the area this week, so stopped in for a sneaky daytime glass after visiting the National Gallery. While not nearly as extensive a list of craft beer taps as nearby Tapped, there’s a good selection of local independent beers from Trouble, Wicklow Wolf and more – enough to give any tourists an idea that there’s more to Irish beer than just Guinness, though obviously, there’s plenty of that (and the 0.0 as well). And unsurprisingly, the pub felt very tourist-heavy, early on a weekday afternoon – but then, that’s who is free to do day-drinking at that time. And while Kennedy’s quite sensibly leans into its writerly history in its décor, it does come by this honestly; it’s been a pub since 1850, and the young Oscar Wilde does seem to have worked here for a brief period.

The basement bar, Kennedy's StationThere’s a lovely tiled bar in the basement for live music and events, and this space as well as the terra cotta decoration on the pub’s exterior add unique touches, while the rest of the interior feels a bit more ‘standard Irish pub.’ All told, it’s probably more of a destination for those on literary walking tours than anything else, but it’s nice to find a spot in tourist-land with a few craft beers; it’s not necessarily a given in Dublin.

And yes (I said yes), you can buy the lemon soap at Sweny’s, either before or after your stop at Kennedy’s.

Where: 30-32 Westland Row, Dublin 2, D02 DP70
Access from the city centre: You are there
Food: Pub grub
Sport: All the sport, especially football
TVs: Quite a few around the pub
Music: Classic rock on our visit, but check the socials for live music
Family-friendliness: No specific children’s menu, but there are chicken goujons
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – The Ginger Man and Lincoln’s Inn are nearby, or wander to the other side of Trinity College for O'Neill's, Tapped, Bowes and more
Local sites of note: Trinity College, Merrion Square, National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology), National Library of Ireland, National Gallery of Ireland
Haunted: Could do with a story or two – make it as ‘literary’ as you like
Other notes: Lots of acoustic tiles, for some reason
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: TP Smith’s

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Outside TP Smith'sSometimes, it really is all about The Socials.

I confess that I’d never particularly noticed TP Smith’s, despite having frequent need to go to the Jervis Centre, the rather-depressing shopping mall just across the Luas tracks from the pub. Although some of the historic façade has been maintained, you’d be hard-pressed to notice it when walking past the mall in question, and while there are especially useful branches of Boots and Marks & Spencer contained within, there’s little else to recommend it as a destination as opposed to a duty to be ticked off a list. It has that generic, draining mall lighting you find all around the world; a therapeutic pint after venturing into this sort of consumerist hellscape is practically a balm for the soul.

Beers available at TP Smith's

My typical thank-goodness-that’s-over post-shopping pint is more typically at The Black Sheep, just a short walk away on Capel Street, but I recently caught a video on the Instas from Rascals – one of my favourite spots for a pint and pizza – recommending a visit to TP Smith’s, as they now have their delicious Sidekick IPA on tap. Sidekick may well be my favourite new beer of the last year: it’s a solid, old-school West Coast IPA – not a bit of haze. And while it’s available at Rascals itself, I’ve only ever seen it in cans closer to me. And given that I had a long-procrastinated trip to the Jervis Centre on my to-do list, it seemed like a perfect opportunity to stop in.

A pint of Rascals Sidekick at TP Smiths

The 18th century exterior – well-kept for this part of town – is quite deceptive. I was surprised by just how large this TARDIS-like pub is on the inside – three levels, and plenty of room all around. The giant mosaic on one wall and what can only be described as a ‘statement’ spiral staircase, all in copper, make quite a change from the usual pub décor. And yet, the rest of the pub has the more typical dark wood, cosy fireplaces and smaller tables and chairs to sit with groups of various sizes. But it was really the combination of the beer menu – not just two different beers from Rascals, but also several Rye River and Galway Bay beers on tap, plus some less-seen macros, like Blue Moon, Kilkenny and Smithwicks Pale Ale in addition to the more common Smithwicks Red, Guinness, Beamish and Harp. And there was another bonus: a promotion on Rascals pints, making them only €6 a pop.

While I don’t expect this bargain to last for long, it was a most welcome sight. I’m quite pleased for the good people at Rascals to have alerted me to their beers in this part of town. Given that I’ve only recently managed to make it to another hidden gem of Dublin, the medieval St Mary’s Abbey chapter house just a short walk away, I suppose I’m still in discovery mode, 5 years into life here.

Let’s hope for more ‘unexpected’ pubs offering local independent beer to appear in the near future…

Where: 9-10, Jervis St, North City, Dublin 1, D01 XV66
Access from the city centre: Luas Green Line, 10-ish minute walk
Food: Pub grub, toasties
Sport: All the sport
TVs: Quite a few all around the large pub
Music: A bit MOR
Family-friendliness: Kids’ menu got a thumbs-up from our test child
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Church, The Black Sheep, Underdog, The King’s Inn, Fidelity, Bonobo, J McNeill’s, The Norseman, Porterhouse Temple Bar…and more in all directions
Local sites of note: Jervis Centre, Chapters Bookstore, St Mary’s Abbey, Wolfe Tone Square, National Leprechaun Museum, ILAC Centre
Haunted: Next door’s long-derelict building surely has a few tales
Other notes: Part of the same ownership group as The Norseman, among others
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Sackville

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Outside The Sackville: spiffed up frontage, againPerhaps a mere week after we covered it here, Biddy Mulligan’s Olde Ale House abruptly closed. But now, as Aragorn retorted to the King of the Dead, it has been remade. Indeed, it has both returned to something closer to its previous Sackville Lounge existence and metamorphosed into its current cocktail bar form with its new/old name, The Sackville.

Its latest transformation is courtesy of the team behind the wildly-popular Bar 1661, and while it feels like an even smaller space than it did before, it’s beautifully appointed. Although it’s None More Black, it actually seems brighter than it was; the elegant lighting fixtures help a great deal in that regard. And as with Bar 1661, you are here for the next-level cocktails. There are classics and house specials, and all like their parent bar, they place a special focus on Irish spirits and ingredients. We’re talking spicy margaritas and Bloody Marys made with Bán poitín – another brainchild from Bar 1661’s Dave Mulligan, as well as a whiskey highball with Subzero pot still whiskey and soda and a well-curated selection of Irish whiskeys served solo. There’s also Bar 1661’s signature Belfast Coffee here, but as someone with a deep aversion to coffee, you’ll have to try that yourselves. (I did recently have a delightful ESB made with Earl Grey tea – Maybe I Like The Misery – but, of course, that was at Underdog. I digress). While I personally only know enough to be dangerous about cocktails – I can go down a very large rabbit hole on the history of Tiki drinks, for example – these are all clearly top-notch. Did it make me want to go book the Tasting Experience at Bar 1661, which I’ve coincidentally been given independent rave reviews about by something like 5 different people of late? Yes, very much so.

Lovely cocktails at The SackvilleAnd while you’re not really here for the beer – labelled moderately-pretentiously-but-it-works as ‘pale ale,’ ‘lager’ and ‘stout’ in lower-case cursive on gold tap towers – they are, for the record, the Changing Times pale ale, Birra Moretti and, of course, Guinness. But if it’s good beer you’re after, you can do what we did and stop off at Piper’s Corner first while you’re waiting for The Sackville to open; just be sure you get there soon after, as it fills up immediately. The Flowing Tide would also do the trick if you’re in the area.

Beer, if you must: the taps

If you’re wondering what happened to the portraits of the 1916 leaders, they are still here, protected under the new panelwork. From a historic preservation point of view, it’s an ideal opportunity for one of those cases where they are forgotten about for a few hundred years and then rediscovered in excellent condition. This is a good thing.

Finally, being so close to the Abbey Theatre, The Sackville is perfect for pre- or post-show drinks, but you may want to book in ahead of time to guarantee a spot. For all the internet scaremongering about this part of town being dangerous or run-down, there are signs of good things happening: new spots like this and the nearby Morris Bar, as well as the regeneration of longtime favourites like The Flowing Tide – combined with a bit of effort from Dublin City Council to keep things a little tidier – makes for an area on the rise.

Let’s hope that continues.

Where: 16 Sackville Pl, North City, Dublin, D01 V0C7
Access from the city centre: Luas Green Line, Buses 9, 13, 14, 83, 122, 123, 10-ish minute walk
Food: Almonds, olives
Sport: No
TVs: No need
Music: Perfect cocktail-bar sophistication
Family-friendliness: Not really space for the younglings
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Mooney’s of Abbey Street, The Morris Bar, Kimchi Hophouse, MeMa’s, The Big Romance, The Flowing Tide, The Palace Bar, Piper’s Corner, Bowes, JR Mahon's, The Oval Bar, Mulligan’s and The Confession Box; also not too far from The Silver Penny if you must visit a ‘Spoons
Local sites of note: O’Connell Street, The Spire, The Portal, GPO, Custom House, Busáras, Connolly Station, Abbey Theatre, Gate Theatre, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, Ha’Penny Bridge
Haunted: Only by the queues outside
Other notes: Beautifully-crafted cocktails come at speed – it looks like such a stressful job!
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Best Pubs for the Sun

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Outside at BonoboWe didn’t have time to get to a ‘new’ pub this week for a conventional entry, but given the (strange) glorious sunny weather, we’ll do a quick round-up of the nicest beer gardens in Dublin – plus an introduction to our newest tag, Pavement Pints*. There are relatively few true beer gardens in Dublin compared to many other major cities, though given our typical weather, it’s not terribly surprising. And it’s probably worth defining what we mean by ‘beer garden‘ here on Weirdo Dublin Pubs: for our purposes, it’s a more permanent outdoor space at the pub with at least a number of substantial tables and chairs. But we also have more than a few pubs with semi-official spots to stand with your pint in good weather, as well as those that have either a bench or a few chairs here and there, so we’ve been encouraged to create the Pavement Pints category to cover these locations.

The beer garden at Mema'sAnd so, with definitions out of the way, here are some of our favourite proper Dublin beer gardens, along with a ‘why you might like it’ note for each. We’ll start strong: it’s hard to top Bonobo, with an always-interesting beer lineup and a large (by Dublin standards) patio with many tables and chairs, and its sister pub on the south side, Kodiak. There’s pizza at both as well, if you’re putting in a full afternoon’s work. Another excellent option for beer, food and general ‘vibes’ is the back deck at The Bald Eagle – again, it’s a large space, and there’s a mix of covered areas and even televisions if it’s a sportsball-day, plus a lot of fun art (mind the Dalek!), good beer and food for all the family. And we have only just mentioned The Brian Boru – but it is, perhaps, one of the sunniest spots around, especially in the afternoon. Hynes’ Bar also has a lovely outdoor space with a mix of seating options, beer, snacks and a good sense of humour in its mural. Staying Northside (we will cross the river, I promise, but the Northside is just, well, better in this regard), The Tolka House has a large covered patio and is an ideal spot to refuel after a visit to the National Botanic Garden. We’ll begin heading toward the city centre with a stop off at MeMa’s – its beer garden is one of the quirkier ones, but get there early – it fills up quickly. And for a tasty bite and a true sun trap before an event nearby, Urban Brewing has a delightful outdoor space, umbrellas and all.

Outside at The Open GateThen, to the other side of the Liffey: Toner’s has an enormous beer garden for its city centre location, and the Guinness Open Gate has beautiful outdoor spaces (and that pretzel), but book ahead to get your spot. Love Tempo is, as of this writing, still closed after a fire a few weeks ago, but we look forward to adding them back to the list when they re-open – their beer garden is a hidden gem of a sun-trap. Tapped has a semi-secret beer garden in the alleyway that’s well worth a visit. And if you are heading further south, The Brickyard has a covered patio out front, and they are a wonderful spot for both food and beer.

Outside UnderdogNext, on to Pavement Pints, and it would be rude not to start with The Gravediggers. (And yes, we did just hop back over to Glasnevin, sorry/not sorry). While there’s no formal outdoor seating, there are always people outside with a pint in fine weather, both right in front of the pub and in the centre of the square. Of course, it is a residential area, so do be mindful if you’re enjoying pints al fresco. The Black Sheep has a few outdoor tables, sometimes covered, as do many other spots along Capel Street. There are a few chairs to be found outside Underdog, and there’s no better spot for craft beer in Dublin, but you’ll need to either get there early or play musical chairs (and, ideally, you don’t mind the traffic that’s maybe a meter away). Contending with traffic noise from both cars and the Luas are the benches outside Fidelity; once again, there are only a few, but their Whiplash and guest beers are lovely, traffic notwithstanding. Taking the Luas further out to The Circular will also land you at another good Pavement Pints spot – and they are introducing a regular market in the near future, too. Another newer spot in this category, albeit closer in, is The Morris Bar, where they have only just added a small outdoor seating area to the front.

Finally, we cannot decide whether the outdoor space at Rascals counts as a beer garden or is more Team Pavement Pints – what say you, gentle readers? In any event, don’t forget your sunblock…

*Name inspiration courtesy of Peter at Craic Beer Community – if you’re a local beer nerd, do join!