Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Delaney’s

Exterior of Delaney'sWhile Dublin city centre certainly has plenty of pubs, we are fortunate in also having additional parts of town that are also jam-packed with excellent options, especially when the holidays can make those in the immediate centre more crowded than usual. Smithfield and Stoneybatter are particularly blessed with not only a large number of pubs, but pubs that all have their own individual character – there’s cosy vibes with craft beer and pizza at Bonobo, or fantastic food and local colour at L. Mulligan. Grocer, plus all the trad music you could wish for at The Cobblestone – and that’s name-checking only a few of the many options.

A pint of Whiplash at Delaney'sSo, it’s taken us a while to get to Delaney’s, which has very much a ‘pubby’ pub feel, but it was worth the wait. There’s a wonderful fireplace for our current season, and a large back garden for less-chilly temperatures (though it is also heated); it is truly a pub that caters to the ever-changing weather – just mind the suit of armour by the back door. While the building was built as a house around 1800, it’s been a pub since the 1880s, and it’s very much a family-run pub.

Indeed, it has the kind of ‘neighbourhood pub’ feel you get in many places around town. Delaney’s doesn’t have the slightly-faded grandeur of some of the high Victorian pubs like The Long Hall or The Hut, but it has a warm welcome and plenty of books for those chill solo pints. Local independent beer is represented by Whiplash and Trouble, and there’s food if you’re peckish, too. There is the customary Guinness, but also Beamish, Harp and Heineken/Beavertown’s Neck Oil, whose ubiquity in Dublin seems to be increasing in inverse proportion to its quality…but here we are, that’s on Heineken, not the pub.

Granted, this is not a spot that you’ll be bringing the kids, but there are plenty of other places around nearby that do welcome them; if you’re on the hunt for an afternoon or evening out alone or with your fellow grownups, you can catch the sport or relax with a local pint at Delaney’s.

Where: 83 King St N, Smithfield, Dublin 7, D07 PF51
Access from the city centre: Buses 23, 24, 37, 39, 39A, 70, Luas Red Line, 27ish minute walk
Food: Pub grub
Sport: Sports galore
TVs: All around
Music: Classic rock vibes
Family-friendliness: No kids here
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Cobblestone, Bonobo and The King’s Inn are all in the immediate area, with Walsh’s, The Belfry, L. Mulligan. Grocer, Hynes’ Bar, The Barber’s Bar and The Glimmer Man in Stoneybatter, and Fidelity and Frank Ryan’s not much further on…plus, all of Capel Street, too…
Local sites of note: Lighthouse Cinema, Jameson Distillery, St Michan’s Church, TUD Grangegorman
Haunted: The suit of armour looks far too recent to be haunted
Other notes: Main floor toilets
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Hole in the Wall

Exterior of The Hole in the WallStaying on a holiday theme, we venture out toward the Phoenix Park this week to visit The Hole in the Wall – a pub that may be better known for its Christmas decorations nowadays, but also one which has a much better claim toward being one of the oldest pubs in Dublin than a certain establishment that trades on this point. Ahem.

But first, the surroundings: the pub gets its unusual name from its proximity to the park, where in times past, British soldiers from the former Marlborough Barracks – now McKee Barracks – could avail of its drink through a literal ‘hole in the wall,’ and thus avoid leaving the Phoenix Park. The pub was known as The Blackhorse Tavern from the 1650s, and the core of the original building does seem to tally well with this sort of date. However, its claim to fame as ‘Europe’s Longest Pub’ is more recent; that’s a result of local cottages being knocked together to add on more and more space as it curves around the edge of the park. There’s also a shipping container coffee stall outside, and plenty of seating for better weather.

Christmas at The Hole in the WallInside, it can be absolutely packed at this time of year, both with decorations (similar to The Ginger Man) and with young visitors to Santa’s Grotto. The many and various rooms within the pub are quite narrow, so it can be a challenge to walk through if there’s a crowd, but it can be done – there are many small nooks and crannies and little benches to be found with a bit of looking around. The beer is mostly the usual suspects from Guinness and Heineken, at least on our visit; the tap for The Holer Pale Ale (previously brewed by Rascals?) was off, and so the only independent beer option was a bottled McCaffrey Irish Pale Ale from Brewmaster/Dundalk Bay Brewing Company, which was…fine. If we’re being nitpicky, it could use a bit of a spruce-up in the beer regard, but the decoration and speed of service with the large crowd was remarkable.

More decorations at The Hole in the WallBut The Hole in the Wall is a pub for life, not just for Christmas – there are also running and cycling clubs based here, and it’s a handy spot if you happen to be on this side of the Phoenix Park (though you’d have Nancy Hands – its sister bar – on the other end). Given how few truly ‘old’ pubs there are in Dublin, we’d love to see them lean into this aspect even more, but in an evidence-based way…we suspect there are some truly fascinating stories to be told here.

Where: Blackhorse Ave, Phoenix Park, Castleknock (part of Phoenix Park), Dublin 7, D07 V663
Access from the city centre: Buses 37, 38, 38A, 39, 39A, 70
Food: Pub grub
Sport: Major sports shown
TVs: A fair few around the pub
Music: Mostly MOR hits
Family-friendliness: Not just for Santa’s Grotto, but year-round at the usual times
Pub-crawl-ability: Low – Cumiskey’s Bar is nearby, but that’s about all in the immediate area; it’s a long way to Nancy Hands and Ryan’s of Parkgate Street on the other side of the Phoenix Park
Local sites of note: Phoenix Park, Dublin Zoo, Áras an Uachtaráin
Haunted: Could do with a good ghost story or two, given its age
Other notes: Dogs welcome
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Grainger’s Cafe Bar

Exterior of JJ Grainger's by nightDublin – indeed, Ireland – is not over-endowed with glorious (or even ‘fine’) train stations. Having recently visited Antwerp, with its beautiful Antwerpen Centraal, well….we have no equivalent. Many (if not most) of our Irish train stations don’t even have a bar, much less anything on the continuum between the wonderful Stalybridge Buffet Bar in Greater Manchester to the renowned Peronas Travel Bar in Vilnius. Connolly Station no longer even has its own in-station pub, as Madigan’s – one of Dublin’s few pubs with an alleged ‘active haunting‘ – has now been closed for some months, with no indications of reopening any time soon, if ever.

A pint of Trouble Dark Arts on a table

Fortunately, for those waiting for their trains near Connolly, there are alternatives to the mid or absent train station pub, starting with Grainger’s Cafe Bar (aka JJ Grainger’s). Built in the 1830s – with the nearby railway bridge (and, naturally, station) appearing some decades later – the pub has been in the same family since 1928. And while the bar area itself is quite small, it’s well-formed: dark wood, bar seating and some cosy tables. And there’s even good beer – a nice selection that included Trouble Dark Arts (one of our favourites), plus Ambush, as well as Hope’s Underdog and their Paddy’s Barleywine, a real surprise. Add in a Rascals tap or two – and there was at least one working – and this may now rank as one of the finest independent beer lineups in Dublin, now that Underdog has, sadly, left us. Your usual Guinness and Heineken options were available, too.

A Hope Paddy's Barleywine The staff were also friendly and welcoming – how many pubs would put on the ‘Airwolf’ theme when asked to do so (not, it must be said, by us, but we did enjoy it)? And while it’s true that this part of Dublin still has a bit of a ‘reputation,’ something we’ve discussed in our entry on The Morris Bar, just a bit further along Talbot Street, the positive energy in Grainger’s is further evidence that things are, gradually, improving.

And in any event, a quick pint here before a train from Connolly has much more to recommend it than sitting there with a poorly-brewed tea – allow yourself a little bit of extra time to relax in the pub before heading into the station.

Where: 51 Talbot Street, Dublin
Access from the city centre: Buses 14, 15, 27, Luas Red Line, Luas Green, 20-ish minute walk
Food: Breakfast, pub grub
Sport: If they happen to be on at the time
TVs: A few screens here and there
Music: Top-class ’80s tunes on our visit, from Squeeze to Julian Cope
Family-friendliness: Early on, before a train? Why not?
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Molloy’s, Mooney’s of Abbey Street, The Morris Bar, Kimchi Hophouse, MeMa’s, The Sackville, The Big Romance, The Flowing Tide, The Palace Bar, Piper’s Corner, JR Mahon’s, The Oval Bar, Urban Brewing, The Brew Dock, Mulligan’s and The Confession Box; also not too far from The Silver Penny if you must visit a ‘Spoons
Local sites of note: Connolly Station, O’Connell Street, The Spire, The Portal, GPO, Busáras, Connolly Station, Abbey Theatre, Gate Theatre, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, Ha’Penny Bridge
Haunted: Can it take in the poltergeist from Madigan’s?
Other notes: Basement toilets – not ideal from an accessibility perspective
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

A Farewell to Underdog

Have you been drinking?
‘Cause it’s not too late to start
There’s still a week
Before they come and pull the place apart

— The Lucksmiths, Requiem For The Punters Club, 2007

The crowd inside Underdog, on the last nightWhat happens when your favourite pub closes?

With Underdog ringing the curtain down, now we know. While Dublin has no shortage of pubs, it’s not as simple as merely simply walking a shorter distance to one of your other local options. What made Underdog unique was not just its dedication to independent beer, but the community that Paddy, Maura and other staff members have been instrumental in building since 2017. Although there are some other spots with a wider-than-usual beer selection, on the whole, it can be fairly difficult to find anything other than Guinness or Heineken products without actively seeking them out – and even then, you may have only one ‘non-corporate’ tap. No other pub in Dublin has a comparable beer selection – an especially difficult loss for smaller Irish brewers who already have relatively few places to get their beers noticed on tap.

In short, this one hurts.

The OG Underdog entrance: down the steps at Brogan'sCovid lockdowns notwithstanding (and even then, there were occasions where it was possible to pop in to pick up some cans), I have never known an Underdog-free Dublin. Yes, that’s a reminder of my blow-in status, but it was one of the first local pubs I ever visited, long before moving here, as well as the last before lockdown started, just after we arrived permanently. In those days, Underdog was in the basement of Brogan’s; the damp from neighbouring Dublin Castle’s moat made things moist at times. But there were good memories from that location, most notably, the working beer engine on Fridays, and incredibly friendly regulars. The beer was a fantastic mix of interesting beers from all across Ireland, as well as choices from the UK, the US and elsewhere in Europe. The bottles and cans were just as diverse as the options on tap, and the knowledgeable crowd would happily make recommendations to visitors or newbies. I quickly got to know Paddy, the owner and all-around legend, and always felt warmly welcomed.

Underdog at the Legal Eagle

After Covid, the many issues with that space led to a temporary ‘residency’ at the Legal Eagle, with the same great range of beers, minus the beer engine. Much of the previous crowd migrated to the new space, and it was easy to become a regular, making firm friends. And when the former Galway Bay Brewing spot that had been Paddle & Peel, and then, Taco Libre became available (is it cursed? Who can say?), Underdog moved in on a permanent basis – at least, that was the idea. This was ideal for me as it was only a 15ish minute walk away, and it became a proper community hub: being a regular here meant that no advance planning was ever needed – you’d always run into a friend and have some great discussions/rants; a chance to put the world to rights, and to do so over some of the best beers you’ve tried anywhere. Visitors were warmly welcomed (unless they got aggressive about the lack of Guinness, even after being pointed to the O’Hara’s stout options, which I did see happen a few times) and quickly included in chats and impromptu tastings.

Underdog hosted some wonderful events, too – the usual tap takeovers from breweries near and far, beer history talk with Ron Pattinson, a book launch for Christina’s excellent Filthy Queens, an episode of A Place in the Sun with live commentary from the participants (also regulars) and some fiendishly difficult pub quizzes; when the beer questions are too difficult for a group of beer nerds, you know you’ve hit upon something unique.

The close-knit nature of our rotating band of regulars meant that when it was rumoured that the end was approaching for Underdog, word went around almost instantaneously. Rescue plans were mooted, possible buyers discussed and so on, but really, there was one overarching question: where do we go now?

Bottles, cans and glasses on the final nightWe still have no firm answer to that question, but it’s fair to say we made the most of the last few weeks of business; there would be no kegs left for any potential new owners to have to worry about. We brought in bottles and cans from all over the world to share as the taps ran out, and made sure that we put in extra orders at the excellent Boco Pizza across the street. From leftover Mexican-ish lager to Westvleteren 12 (and everything in between), it was all shared and, mostly, enjoyed. There were hugs, some tears and a lot of laughter on the final night.

And yes, we can, of course, wander to other pubs on a whim, but it won’t be the same – those serendipitous chats and chance encounters will need to be more planned and organised. This is no great tragedy in the grand scheme of things, obviously, but it’s still a kind of loss.

Maybe, down the line, Underdog will be reborn in slightly (or very) different form; after all, it did happen for The Punter’s Club, the Melbourne bar whose 2007 tribute in song by The Lucksmiths bookends this post. But for now, thanks to Paddy, Maura and everyone else who ever worked behind the scenes – you created something unique to Dublin, and it’s going to be much missed. GRMA.

I’ll be alright
We’ll make tonight tomorrow morning
Sometimes you wanna go
Where everybody knows you’re drunk*

*Song lyrics, folks! Drink responsibly, etc…

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Hairy Lemon

Upstairs at The Hairy Lemon: old signs and bikesWe’ve not always been fair to The Hairy Lemon.

In truth, until recently, we’d only visited it in a tourist capacity, long before moving to Dublin (see also: The Long Hall), and as a result, it felt less like a ‘local’ pub and more like one that catered purely to those here on brief trips. And while it certainly has a booming tourist trade, a more recent stop by made us realise that there’s more going on here, and that it can be well worth a drop in when we’re at Craft Central anyway. Uh, we are not infrequently ‘at Craft Central anyway’ – but that’s another story.

The bar at The Hairy LemonThe first point in its favour – for us, anyway – is its support for local independent beer: there are multiple Rye River taps, and they are all kept in excellent shape. Indeed, it has always felt like many of the more tourist-friendly pubs are missing a trick by not highlighting other Irish beers. Yes, people want their Guinness, but plenty of tourists also want to follow it up with something else that seems unique or exclusive to the area. The Hairy Lemon does a fine job of offering both experiences, and not just a token ‘extra’ tap – there’s not just a variety of styles from Rye River, but also Murphy’s and the rarer Murphy’s Red.

A terrible picture of the exterior of The Hairy LemonWhile it’s true that when in this general direction we are more often to be found at Caribou, with other beer options in a more ‘bar’ vibe setting, tourists (or anyone else) looking for more of an traditional pub feel are well catered to at The Hairy Lemon. And it comes by its ‘Irish pub’ bona fides honestly: the current all-yellow paintjob may be more recent, but it’s been a pub since at least the mid-19th century. The Hairy Lemon is named for one of Dublin’s many ‘characters’ – like Bang Bang (commemorated in both café and pub form, with Bang Bang in Phibsborough and Dudley’s in The Liberties), The Hairy Lemon was ‘known’ around town, and while he had no specific connection to the pub, it honours his memory, and, more broadly, that of the other long-gone Dublin ‘characters.’

And if on your visit to The Hairy Lemon it seems packed full of tourists at lunchtime, a wander upstairs can be blissfully calm; there are several pleasant nooks and crannies in which to sit with a quiet solo pint, even here in the middle of town.

Where: 41-42 Stephen Street Lower, Dublin 2
Access from the city centre: You are there
Food: Breakfast, pub grub, tourist faves, kids’ menu
Sport: Essentially all of them
TVs: Many all around the pub
Music: Fairly MOR tunes, at least on a weekday afternoon; live music in the evenings
Family-friendliness: Always a fair few kids during the day and evening and plenty of food for them
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Neary’s, Caribou, Bar Rua, The Long Hall, Grogan’s, Peter’s Pub, Sinnot’s Bar and more are all nearby
Local sites of note: Gaiety Theatre, Craft Central (we said what we said), Little Museum of Dublin, George’s Street Arcade, St Stephen’s Green, Grafton Street
Haunted: An appalling lack of good ghost stories
Other notes: Still looks more or less the same as it did when The Commitments was filmed here
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Neary’s

The famous hand-held lamps at Neary'sWhile The Flowing Tide serves as Northside Dublin’s premier theatrical pub, with its close associations with the neighbouring Abbey Theatre (and its short walk to The Gate), Neary’s takes on that role on the Southside for the Gaiety Theatre. Alas, though, one of the finest theatrical tales about Neary’s seems to be a bit of a myth. In Donal Fallon’s excellent new book, The Dublin Pub: A Social and Cultural History (a must-have for any pub nerd), the story of Alan Devlin storming offstage at the Gaiety during a production of HMS Pinafore* and demanding drink at Neary’s is only true…in part.

A glass of O'Hara's upstairs at Neary's

In reality, it seems Devlin only made it as far as Sinnott’s, just steps away…so while Neary’s have claimed the (delightful) story, it’s actually more accurately one that belongs to the whole street. But Neary’s has featured in other legendary activities, too – Nell McCafferty famously led a protest here in 1974, demanding that women be served pints (THINK OF THE CHILDREN), and a version of the story makes its way into the book as well; the good news is that once again, there’s more than a grain of truth here.

The main bar at Neary'sAnd it is, perhaps, fitting that Neary’s is a pub that attracts this kind of lore; its beautifully-maintained interior hearkens back to the 1880s – well, at least in the main bar downstairs – while upstairs, it’s a slightly more updated restaurant feel, but still elegantly understated. The working gas lamps and dumbwaiter inside are well-known historical features, but the literally hand-held lamps outside are iconic.

Despite its history and location next to the Gaiety, it doesn’t feel quite as ‘theatrical’ as The Flowing Tide – the subject of its own chapter in The Dublin Pub – but it wears its literary heritage very well indeed. Pints-wise (and yes, anyone of age can have those pints now), O’Hara’s is the independent option, with the usual Guinness as well. Our small quibble would be the unused/possibly not real hand pumps – regular readers know we feel A Way about cask ale – but they do seem part of the furniture here.

Of course, we’ve only scratched the surface here; Dublin’s pubs have so many fantastical stories – some more fact-based than others – and we cannot recommend Donal’s book highly enough. Consider this your call to action to pick up a copy if you have not already done so!

It’s an ideal read for an afternoon with a book and a solo pint.

Where: 1 Chatham Street
Access from the city centre: You are in it
Food: Sandwiches (toasties and more), salads, oysters
Sport: Not here
TVs: None at all
Music: Quiet jazz upstairs in the Lounge, occasional live sets
Family-friendliness: A surprisingly large number of babies and toddlers mid-afternoon
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Hairy Lemon, Caribou, Bar Rua, The Long Hall, Grogan’s, Peter’s Pub, Sinnott’s Bar and more are all within a short wander
Local sites of note: Gaiety Theatre, Craft Central (absolutely a landmark for the beer nerds), Little Museum of Dublin, George’s Street Arcade, St Stephen’s Green, Grafton Street
Haunted: There’s a story of a deceased punter…so perhaps!
Other notes: While there is the dreaded (by us) Changing Times Hazy IPA, there’s still the aforementioned O’Hara’s
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

 

*FWIW, your fair scribe has been in many productions of HMS Pinafore, and could easily step into essentially any role if need be, as long as some transposing down were a possibility for anything higher than mezzo. But Sir Joseph? Yes, could absolutely do it. And so could our sisters and our cousins and our aunts…

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Anseo

Exterior of Anseo by nightOn our perambulations around Dublin this week, we visit what feels like a proper dive bar…that is, assuming proper dive bars all have a few good local taps and a killer playlist. If so, then Anseo is, indeed, in that category. But its slightly-scrubby-yet-cheerful interior doesn’t entirely hide the building’s history: this is a mid-18th century house, complete with a few extant interior features, that’s been repurposed as a pub since the mid-19th century. If you know where to look, you can spot some of that legacy hiding in plain sight.

A Scraggy Bay at AnseoYou are most likely to be visiting Anseo to catch a gig from an up-and-coming band or artist, or, perhaps, seeing some stand-up comedy upstairs; you may also be doing a Camden Street pub crawl before a show elsewhere along the way, or as a standalone activity. But regardless of what’s brought you here, the dark red walls and fairy lights make for quite a pleasant spot for a Scraggy Bay or an Ambush (or, perhaps, Beamish, if you prefer), and while the music isn’t especially quiet, it’s well-chosen. There are books and café tables along the wall opposite the bar, and while at first glance it may not feel like an ‘Irish pub’ to the visitor, on closer inspection, it’s hard to find it anything but.

Inside a relatively-crowded Anseo

First, of course, the name: ‘Anseo‘ is Irish for ‘here,’ and a quick scan of the posters all over the pub for bands and comedians turns of plenty of local colour, in both the Irish and English languages. The books, too, have a good mix of hyperlocal as well as global political and literary interest, and, again, there is good support for local Irish independent beer. The tea, naturally, is Barry’s. In short, despite some universal dive bar superficialities, this bar is as ‘Irish’ as they come.

You won’t find the glass-and-dark-wood snugs and plush seats of an Old Man Pub here, but you will find locals and visitors of all (adult) ages, enjoying what feels like a real community spot. In short, it’s a perfect spot for a pre-gig pint, whether that show is just up the stairs or a quick hop down the road.

Where: 18 Camden Street Lower
Access from the city centre: Buses 9, 14, 15, 16, 27, 56A, 65B, 77A, 83, 140, 151, 15-ish minute walk
Food: N/A
Sport: Occasional rugby
TVs: A few screens here and there
Music: Bands, DJs, comedy
Family-friendliness: Not for the kids
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Bleeding Horse, Devitt’s, Teach Tábhairne Ag Teach, The Camden, The Portobello Bar, Whelan’s, Ryan’s of Camden Street…and the local ‘Spoon’s, Keavan’s Port
Local sites of note: Iveagh Gardens, St Stephen’s Green, National Concert Hall, St Kevin’s Park, Grand Canal
Haunted: Maybe! There’s plenty of ‘atmosphere’
Other notes: Main-floor toilets
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Portobello Bar

Outside The Portobello PubAs regular readers know, we are always on the lookout for a pub with a good ghost story, whether it’s October or, really, any time. The pub in question we’re visiting this week doesn’t feel particularly spooky, but it does have an interesting history to go along with the ghost story, even if they aren’t perfectly well-connected. Without further ado, we make our way to The Portobello Bar.

The front bar at The Portobello BarWhile the ‘since 1793’ date is a little shaky, given the current building’s construction in the 1870s, it seems entirely plausible that there was, indeed, an inn or pub around here earlier. The Grand Canal’s proximity – just across a heavily-used road – supports the possibility of an earlier date, and it’s also what supplies our ghost story. Construction began on the Grand Canal in the late 18th century, and it was a key piece of infrastructure in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Our ghost – a ‘vengeful’ or ‘drunken’ lock-keeper (take your pick/why not both?) – is alleged to originate in the middle of the 19th century, forever haunting the lock just outside the pub. He’s even meant to be responsible for multiple deaths, appearing as a shapeshifting light-into-human-figure. As an aside, we don’t get enough shapeshifting ghostlore any more – there used to be a proud tradition of spooks turning into hay bales or cows and horses, and that seems to have vanished in modern ‘it happened to me stories’ – someone should get on that. But we digress…

But there was a very real tragedy just opposite the pub’s location in 1861, when a horse-drawn omnibus went off the nearby bridge into the canal, killing all the passengers as well as both horses. While ‘some’ attributed the accident to the spectral lock-keeper, it would be an interesting exercise to trace back the origin of that part of the story, especially since the current pub (or, at least, most of it) would have been built or re-built at least a good few years after the accident.

Back bar at The Portobello BarSo, ghosts aside, what is the pub like? Well…most definitely not creepy. If anything, it’s a bit too polished to feel at all like a liminal space. There are several very different sections of the pub with their own character, but none are especially dark or gloomy. The front is much more ‘pubby’ and the rear more of a restaurant or hotel bar vibe (the many large TV screens are part of what gives that impression), though it’s worth knowing that the back bar is where the sole local-craft-beer representative is; there’s a Rye River tap if you know where to look. Indeed, the food was very good – a step up from a lot of pub food, though the enormous portions are perhaps created more for tourists than locals. There’s also the usual Guinness – and Murphy’s – plus some Warsteiner.

Covered Pavement Pints area at The Portobello BarThere’s a covered outdoor space too, more Pavement Pints than beer garden, given the amount of traffic nearby, but you do get a view of the canal lock and the (haunted?) bridge. And even if you’re not into the ghostly folklore, The Portobello Bar does have other legitimate historical claims: back when it was called Davy’s, it was an important site during the Easter Rising in 1916, and that history is very much remembered in this pub.

We may not have seen the vengeful lock-keeper at The Portobello Bar, but we did have a good burger and pint. We’ll keep trying to find some good haunted Dublin pub stories

Where: 33 South Richmond St, Dublin, IE D02 CF40
Access from the city centre: Buses 9, 15, 15A, 15B, 16, 83, 83A, 140; 25-ish minute walk
Food: Elevated pub grub, carvery, weekend brunch
Sport: All the sport, football especially
TVs: So many large screens in the back that it can feel a bit sports-bar-y
Music: DJs and live music at weekends
Family-friendliness: At the usual times
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Camden street is full of pubs and bars like The Bleeding Horse, Devitt’s, Teach Tábhairne Ag Teach, The Camden, Whelan’s, Anseo, Ryan’s of Camden Street…and the local ‘Spoon’s, Keavan’s Port
Local sites of note: Iveagh Gardens, St Stephen’s Green, National Concert Hall, St Kevin’s Park, Grand Canal
Haunted: Is it the lock-keeper? The tram passengers? The horses? Everything to play for here
Other notes: Main-floor toilets, though no specific disabled toilet
Socials: Facebook, Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Bernard Shaw

Exterior of The Bernard Shaw

Despite walking past it multiple times a day most days, we’ve not had occasion to call in to The Bernard Shaw recently. This part of Dublin – the Phibsborough/Glasnevin border – is already well-served with great pubs like The Bald Eagle just across the canal, more food-forward spots like The Botanic around the corner, and world-renowned spots like The Gravediggers within a short walk. And so despite having an interesting selection of food vendors in its adjoining Eatyard, The Bernard Shaw is rarely top of mind as a spot for a quiet (or loud) drink or a family meal. True, they do have a drag brunch that we’ve heard is good fun, but the in-house food and drinks are always mentioned as not quite up to par for the neighbourhood, especially for the price.

And perhaps the fact that it doesn’t feel  much like, well, a pub is part of the issue; in its previous incarnation in Rathmines, it had a variety of spaces and programming options, but it still felt very much like a (rather scruffy) pub. However, that closed in 2019, and it moved to the current spot, a former Porterhouse location, not terribly long after. But much about the interior feels very much temporary: colourful cardboard dividers, upstairs and downstairs spaces closed off at some times and not others, and even the Eatyard itself is sometimes table service, sometimes walk-up, and it’s never entirely clear which is which or what is on offer when.

Inside one end of The Bernard ShawWhile it does have a theoretically reasonably interesting drinks lineup, like its fellow Bodytonic-managed bar, The Back Page, sometimes quite a few taps are not in working order – but again, other times, it’s all fine. But if all is present and correct, there are usually multiple Kinnegar choices, an Outcider tap and the more usual Guinness and Beamish, plus cocktails. Between the two locations, we tend to go to The Back Page more often: it has a more distinct identity as a spot for watching soccer and some more obscure sport, and the pizza is consistently pretty decent.

A beer on a table at The Bernard ShawIt is, of course, entirely possible that it’s simply aiming for a younger/cooler demographic, which is fair enough…though it does beg the question as to why there’s a mural of Peter Fonda on one side of the building…it’s not something that resonates with GenXers like us…are the younger Millennials into Easy Rider? We’ve been told it’s a ‘no’ from Gen Z: ‘…it’s no Taxi Driver.’

But we actually *do* quite enjoy some of the events that take place at The Bernard Shaw – there are handy record fairs, local community art markets and so on that are great to have in the neighbourhood; we may just go elsewhere for that ‘pub’ experience after. But with so many to choose from in this area, there’s absolutely something for everyone.

Where: Cross Guns Bridge, Dublin, D09 XW44
Access from the city centre: Buses 9, 40, 46A, 83, 140; Luas Green Line; 30ish minute walk
Food: Breakfast, lunch, dumplings, hot dogs
Sport: Big events shown: Rugby, football, etc
TVs: Scattered around
Music: The hipster music vibes are strong
Family-friendliness: Children around at the usual times
Pub-crawl-ability: High. Multiple options nearby: The Bald Eagle, The Brian Boru, Doyle’s Corner, The Boh, The Hut and The Back Page in one direction, with The Botanic, The Gravediggers and The Tolka House in the other…
Local sites of note: Royal Canal Greenway, National Botanic Gardens, Glasnevin Cemetery, Mountjoy Prison, Dalymount Park
Haunted: Oddly, no ghosts obviously associated with the nearby Cross Guns Bridge
Other notes: Toilets are very much not accessible
Socials: Facebook, Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Long Hall

Exterior of The Long HallIn our effort to fill in the blanks when we see you getting lost in our search results, we’re aiming to visit some of the more common pubs on the tourist trail here and there, now that the bulk of the summer holidaymakers have gone home. Indeed, this week’s pub is one we’ve only ever previously visited in that capacity, years before moving to Dublin: The Long Hall.

The clock at The Long HallVisiting again with more ‘local’ eyes does make you notice different things, but the fundamentals remain the same: the beautifully-maintained – and, in this case, likely genuinely world-famous – exterior of the pub is unmistakable, with its signature red-and-off-white stripes. Inside, it’s the kind of high Victorian décor that is more commonly a pastiche these days, but The Long Hall comes by it honestly: its last real renovation was in the 1880s. And while the deep reds and dark woods are common to many other local Dublin pubs of this vintage – a subject to which we’ll return – there are unique features here, including the much-loved clock, added in 1912.

For us, it ticks more boxes from a musical history perspective – the Phil Lynott and Bruce Springsteen bona fides are legit, though arguably, it’s more the interior (and the central location) that put The Long Hall firmly on the tourist trail. Thinking back to that first visit and why it came so highly recommended, a few memories resurfaced: 1) ‘the quality of the pint of Guinness;’ 2) the very-Victorian feel; and 3) the availability of other local beers – at the time, from McGargle’s (now better-known as Rye River).

A pint of Rye River stout at The Long Hall

Coming back to the first point as a local, there is no objectively ‘best’ pint of Guinness. Yes, there are places where it seems especially appropriate, like The Gravediggers (or, obviously, the Open Gate), but given that fresh Guinness and clean tap lines are essentially a given everywhere, that ‘best’ pint is purely down to atmosphere.  (I said what I said). As a visitor, The Long Hall is certainly a fine spot for one – but it’s also a nice place to enjoy that Rye River pint. Fortunately, that’s still an option – too many other pubs have turfed out long-standing local independent options for their pricey Changing Times beer (looking at you, The Bridge 1859), and while the stout is not bad, there are still too many tap lines here taken up with some of the other Changing Times options – though again, happily there are still other choices available here.

But it’s the middle theme – the Victorian interior – that feels different with more-experienced eyes. If you’re only briefly in town and don’t have the time to explore, The Long Hall is a great spot to see this kind of pub. But once you’ve lived in Dublin for a while – or even just spent significant time here – you’ll know that there are other pubs that are just as ornate, or even more so, but without the tourist crowds (and prices). The Hut and Gaffney’s are just two examples, but especially for the cut-glass enthusiast, we’d suggest visiting those as well for comparison. Both also retain more of their Old Man Pub atmosphere which the tourist crowd dilutes somewhat at The Long Hall, though we’d very much emphasize that this isn’t a tourists-only joint like The Brazen Head, just that there are a lot of them, much of the time, and that’s fine.

So, it’s less of a case of ‘you can never go home again,’ but rather, once a place becomes your home, you find your own regular spots that are likely not those you visited on a quick trip. These days, when I’m in this part of town, Caribou is my usual go-to (after stopping off at Craft Central to re-stock the home fridge, of course), but there’s still plenty to enjoy at The Long Hall, whether you are a local or a newbie. The experience may be a different one with less-fresh eyes, but that’s no bad thing…

Where: 51 South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2, D02 DV74
Access from the city centre: 5ish minute walk or right in it, depending on your point of view
Food: N/A
Sport: N/A
TVs: N/A
Music: Quite a generic playlist
Family-friendliness: Children not allowed – a rare-for-Dublin hard pass for the kids
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Grogan’s, The Hairy Lemon, Caribou, Peter’s Pub, Sinnot’s Bar and Bar Rua are all within stumbling distance, with many more beyond
Local sites of note: George’s Street Arcade, Gaiety Theatre, St Stephen’s Green, Dublin Castle, Chester Beatty, Craft Central (IYKYK)
Haunted: Again, a truly lamentable lack of ghostlore for a pub of this age
Other notes: There’s air con! And main-floor toilets, but not always in the most agreeable condition
Socials: Facebook, Instagram