City Centre

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Harty’s Bar

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The streetscape at Harty's Bar, with Tapped to its rightCask ale, as we have often complained, is something of a rarity in Ireland. While there are a few more pubs with a regular cask offering up in Belfast, here in Dublin, it is simply not a regular feature in most pubs. Happily, though, a tipoff from a reader (cheers, Ciaran!) alerted us to a beer engine in regular use at Harty’s Bar. Naturally, we dropped everything to go investigate.

A pint of Brehon Blonde next to the hand pumpOne reason this pub had not been on our radar is that, appearances notwithstanding, it’s a fairly new establishment (but also not; bear with us) – until about 18 months ago, it was the Dingle Whiskey Bar. But like its neighbour, Tapped, with whom it shares a kitchen and menu, it has had a variety of identities, both before and throughout its tenure in the broader Porterhouse portfolio. Now described as ‘a country pub in the big smoke,’ its most recent refit leans into low light, dark woods and deep reds. It also seems smaller than during its whiskey days, but we’re not certain whether this is an accurate feeling or some kind of MR James ‘Number 13’ effect happening. In any event, there’s still plenty of Dingle Whiskey, also part of the Porterhouse group, as well as others.

A view into Harty's BarWhile it doesn’t have the selection of beers next door in Tapped, with its enormous bar, for a small space, it has a good lineup of some of the more standard Porterhouse beers – the Plain Porter, Yippy IPA and Red – as well as Trouble’s Ambush. There’s also Guinness, of course, and Beamish. But as you know, we were here for the cask option: this week, it was Brehon Brewhouse’s Blonde. And cask is a great way to serve this beer; it helps bring out a bit more of the biscuity malts that are a bit harder to notice when it’s poured from a can. The bartender shared that it’s more commonly the Stony Grey IPA on the hand pump, so it was a nice changeup.

And although you can still count the pubs in Dublin with working beer engines on one hand, it’s nice to know that we are at least back to having at least 1-2 cask options available on nearly any day of the week…if you know where to go.

And to that end, we’ve added a new category: cask.

Enjoy!

Where: 44 Nassau St, Dublin, D02 YY44
Access from the city centre: Right there
Food: Pub grub and beyond
Sport: Football, GAA…the usual big sports
TVs: Small screen near the bar
Music: No music on our visit; sport instead
Family-friendliness: Depends on the time of day, but there is food
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Tapped is next door, and McDaid’s, Bowes, O’Neill’s, Cassidy's, Mulligans, The Palace Bar, JR Mahon’s, The Oval Bar, Porterhouse Temple Bar, Kennedy's and many, many more are all within a very short stroll
Local sites of note: Trinity College, National Library of Ireland, National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology and The Dead Zoo), Leinster House, Irish Whiskey Museum, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM
Haunted: Perhaps the revamp was too recent for ghosts?
Other notes: There’s even working air con…more rare still than cask ale
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: McDaid’s

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Outside McDaid'sIt’s time for another one of our rare trips into Dublin city centre proper with a visit to McDaid’s, a pub with a fine literary heritage. Granted, there are many, many pubs here with similar claims to fame, but most do come by it quite honestly. There’s the requisite Brendan Behan connection (this is a pub, after all), but it was also a haunt of Seamus Heaney, Patrick Kavanagh, Flann O’Brien, and J.P. Donleavy, before there was something of a writerly migration to Grogan’s in the 1970s.

The bar at McDaid's

Inside, the feel is ‘classic Irish pub’ in a more weathered, relaxed way than you find elsewhere in this part of town; the crowds are spilling out onto the footpath at Kehoe’s, but it’s it bit calmer at McDaid’s. There are some lovely tiles all around the pub, and the dark wood and red leather is cosy and lived-in. The usual Guinness is available and well-kept, and there’s an O’Hara’s tap for the indie beer fan – something that is far from guaranteed in this part of Dublin.

An O'Hara's at McDaid'sIt would be interesting to do a deeper dive into the history of the building and previous pubs trading on this site…the ‘est 1779’ above the door has little to do with the current incarnation of the pub, which is a mid-20th century affair, and the building that houses it is from the late 19th century. There are several ‘facts’ traded around about its past (‘former morgue!’ ‘Moravian chapel!’) which likely have the odd grains of truth here and there – the stained glass and frontage do have an ecclesiastical feel – but one does wonder where the 1779 date came from.

Still, we wouldn’t want to get in the way of a good story, especially in a pub with such a storied past; it’s often a blissfully-chill spot in an area that can be heaving with tourists and students. A good ghost story wouldn’t go amiss.

Where: 3 Harry St, Dublin, D02 NC42
Access from the city centre: In it
Food: Crisps
Sport: On when there’s a big game
TVs: Above the main entry
Music: Bit of an MOR playlist
Family-friendliness: Not really ideal for the littles
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Kehoe’s, Grogan’s, The Hairy Lemon, The Long Hall, Tapped, Bruxelles, Neary’s, Bar Rua, Davy Byrne’s…and many, many more
Local sites of note: Grafton Street, Gaiety Theatre, St Stephen’s Green, Trinity College, National Gallery, National Library of Ireland, National Museum of Archaeology, Leinster House, Little Museum of Dublin
Haunted: Seems odd there isn’t a literary ghost story
Other notes: Worryingly narrow stairs up to the toilets
Socials: None in general usage

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Kennedy’s

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The exterior of Kennedy's on Westland RowThis week, it’s another relatively rare visit into the more touristy part of town as we visit Kennedy’s, a pub adjacent to both Trinity College and Sweny’s Pharmacy. The literary associations here are more Wilde, Beckett and Joyce than Behan, compared to pubs on the Northside. And yes, and prices are higher, given the location, but that’s to be expected around these parts.

A glass of Ambush inside Kennedy'sKennedy’s is another pub I’ve walked past many times without entering, but I finally had a bit of free time in the area this week, so stopped in for a sneaky daytime glass after visiting the National Gallery. While not nearly as extensive a list of craft beer taps as nearby Tapped, there’s a good selection of local independent beers from Trouble, Wicklow Wolf and more – enough to give any tourists an idea that there’s more to Irish beer than just Guinness, though obviously, there’s plenty of that (and the 0.0 as well). And unsurprisingly, the pub felt very tourist-heavy, early on a weekday afternoon – but then, that’s who is free to do day-drinking at that time. And while Kennedy’s quite sensibly leans into its writerly history in its décor, it does come by this honestly; it’s been a pub since 1850, and the young Oscar Wilde does seem to have worked here for a brief period.

The basement bar, Kennedy's StationThere’s a lovely tiled bar in the basement for live music and events, and this space as well as the terra cotta decoration on the pub’s exterior add unique touches, while the rest of the interior feels a bit more ‘standard Irish pub.’ All told, it’s probably more of a destination for those on literary walking tours than anything else, but it’s nice to find a spot in tourist-land with a few craft beers; it’s not necessarily a given in Dublin.

And yes (I said yes), you can buy the lemon soap at Sweny’s, either before or after your stop at Kennedy’s.

Where: 30-32 Westland Row, Dublin 2, D02 DP70
Access from the city centre: You are there
Food: Pub grub
Sport: All the sport, especially football
TVs: Quite a few around the pub
Music: Classic rock on our visit, but check the socials for live music
Family-friendliness: No specific children’s menu, but there are chicken goujons
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – The Ginger Man and Lincoln’s Inn are nearby, or wander to the other side of Trinity College for O'Neill's, Tapped, Bowes and more
Local sites of note: Trinity College, Merrion Square, National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology), National Library of Ireland, National Gallery of Ireland
Haunted: Could do with a story or two – make it as ‘literary’ as you like
Other notes: Lots of acoustic tiles, for some reason
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Tapped

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Outside TappedBack in the day – you know, perhaps 3 years ago – this week’s pub was The Porterhouse Central. It was a very handy spot in that you could enjoy a mix of interesting beers from Porterhouse and various guest options, but you avoided Temple Bar. Granted, you are still right in the middle of Dublin, and things could be busy. Depending on the time of year it could be full of tourists making their way from Trinity College across the street, but on the whole, it was a useful meeting point that offered more than the usual city centre beer options. Indeed, it was an ideal spot for that all-important post-race pint after the VHI Women’s Mini-Marathon (only a 10K, but we’ll let that slide). It was on that occasion that, complete with medal, I made what I didn’t realise would be my final visit to this pub under that name. Only a few weeks later, it vanished into renovation, re-emerging in its current form: Tapped.

While still a part of the larger Porterhouse group, it’s been styled very much more as a ‘bar’ vs a ‘pub,’ and it’s taken a while to settle. My first few visits were, it must be said, not great. The initial redesign felt rather like they’d ordered a ‘taproom’ kit from the early 2000s – lots of plastic, colours just a bit too bright and faux-industrial, and the service was, frankly, poor. Even on the relatively quiet times I’d stopped in, it seemed nearly impossible to get served…yet that was rather less difficult for the younger men around me, or so it seemed. Comparing notes offline at the time, it seemed quite a few other women had a similar experience, and so I essentially gave up trying for a few years.

A beer and menu at TappedHowever, I happened to be in the area and had a bit of time after a meeting, so I gave Tapped another try. I’m pleased to say that the interior, while still feeling just slightly too ‘taproom’ has been softened and improved. There is now much more comfortable seating and the lighting is more dialled-in; it feels warmer on the whole. There are screens showing the beer lineup, direct from Untappd (no relation), and there are quite a few cocktail options as well, plus many food choices – it’s vastly improved on this front. And it is certainly one of the most varied beer selections you’ll get in this part of Dublin: there are the expected options from Porterhouse and local stalwarts such as Rascals, Whiplash, Hope and Trouble. But if you’re looking for a spot to watch the rugby with less-adventurous friends, there are also ‘normal’ beers like Heineken, Guinness and Beamish, plus some useful non-alcoholic options.

The bar at Tapped

It’s not the sort of welcome you get at, say, Underdog, but service was much improved, though it’s hard to gauge how it goes at a busier time. The crowd still tended toward ‘younger,’ but that’s no bad thing…it simply didn’t feel as mixed as many other spots, and it’s natural you would get at least a bit of a ‘student’ element so close to Trinity (if not student-friendly prices).

Dare we say that Tapped is Dublin’s ‘most improved’ pub over the past year or so, at least, taking complete re-brandings out of the picture? It’s an entirely subjective take, but I feel much more warmly toward the spot…I may even stop in again after this year’s VHI Mini-Marathon.

But first, there’s the actual Dublin City Half Marathon to get through…that’s almost certainly going to be one for Juno after!

Where: 47 Nassau Street, Dublin, IE D02 P285
Access from the city centre: You are there
Food: Gastropub offerings, pizza & nibbles – even a fancy spicebag
Sport: Big events on – Six Nations, Premier League and the like
TVs: Screens throughout may show either sport or the latest Untappd check-ins
Music: Indie vibes
Family-friendliness: Feels less welcoming than in its previous incarnation, but the food menu has many options during the day
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Harty’s Bar is next door, and  Bowes, O'Neill's, Cassidy’s, Mulligans, The Palace Bar, JR Mahon's, The Oval Bar, Porterhouse Temple Bar, Kennedy’s and many, many more are all within a very short stroll
Local sites of note: Trinity College, National Library of Ireland, National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology and The Dead Zoo), Leinster House, Irish Whiskey Museum, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM
Haunted: Still missing the old Porterhouse Central wall panelling, which surely felt haunted
Other notes: Open from 11 am – 3 am if either day drinking or late nights are your thing
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Biddy Mulligan’s

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The Sackville Lounge - er - Biddy Mulligan'sEdit again, mid-April 2025: Welcome to The Sackville: enjoy those cocktails.

Edit, mid-February 2025: Well, that lasted a hot second. We’ll revisit when it re-opens (again), with cocktails.

The signs, both literal and metaphorical, were not great.

The former Sackville Lounge, which had a reputation as a mix of Old Man Pub and dive-y spot to meet somewhat strange and unusual people, had been closed since Covid. But rather than re-opening under that name, with its delightful neon sign (still there, at present), it gained a new identity – and much opprobrium.

The new signage now proclaims the pub to be Biddy Mulligan’s Old Ale and Stout House (‘since 1914’), in the kind of font you’d normally find in plastic letters on a strip-mall Oirish Pub in, say, Arkansas. The hand-wringing on Dublin Reddit and on local lifestyle websites was swift, and even the national press got involved, interviewing the delightful local historian and podcaster, Donal Fallon, on his take. Fallon is hard at work on a book on Dublin pub history – something we are very much looking forward to here – and so was ready with a thoughtful opinion:

Looking at the new signage above the old Sackville Lounge, Mr Fallon compared the signage to a “poor imitation” of McSorley's Ale House in New York, which is a very historic institution.

“To try and recreate something distinctly Irish American here falls flat,” he said…
“A number of pub interiors are rightly protected architecturally, but it's ultimately people that make a public house special,” he added.

Inside the Sackville Lounge/Biddy Mulligan'sWe’ll come back to his point about the people later, but at first glance, I had the same reaction – why on earth had what looked like an Oirsh pub been dropped into the centre of Dublin? While it’s true that there are Dublin pubs that cater more to the tourist trade than to locals (and not just in Temple Bar) that do dip into a more stereotypical ‘Irish pub’ feel, to tip over into what we might call Full Oirish seemed, well, unseemly. Unnecessary. Just a bit, well, naff.

But as is so often the case with these sort of things, life moves on, and it’s no longer front of mind.

And so, when I was meeting a friend ‘at the Sackville Lounge‘ recently, I’d completely forgotten that it was the pub that had caused all the furore; until, that is, I couldn’t find it on the map, and I realised that *this* was the pub with the unfortunate rebranding. Nevertheless, we were committed, and so went in, and found it…quite pleasant?

Yes, I was surprised, too.

Reflecting in a mirror at the Sackville Lounge/Biddy Mulligan'sWhile it’s still a small spot, the dark wood and low lighting add to the cosy feel, and the interior décor is very much ‘Easter Rising’ themed with images of the leaders around the pub, it doesn’t veer off into a theme park feel; indeed, given that the pub is steps away from the GPO, if the interior matched the exterior sign, it could easily career rapidly into the realm of the offensive. But – and here’s the thing – it does not! It’s quite nice! It includes portraits of many of the women involved – something especially notable if, like me, you’ve recently watched ‘Michael Collins’ for the first and only time, and wondered where the women were…but I digress.

The vibe was ‘make Gen X feel at home’ with some fun 80s tunes, and the service was excellent – the bartender was welcoming and we had some great chats. The beer lineup is nothing to write home about, with your standard Guinness-and-Heineken offering, but as a central spot to have a catchup with friends, it fits the bill. It was also largely empty, apart from our small group, but that may simply be a function of it being relatively early…or, perhaps, people are still weirded out by the sign outside.

But despite the name, my friends who live nearby keep going back, largely because they always receive the same warm welcome and have become semi-regulars in that accidental way that sometimes happens. They’ve been there when mariachi bands have turned up (and why not?), and have gone for the odd free Irish Coffee, which seems to be a specialty of the house, though as someone who neither drinks coffee nor consumes whipped cream (and prefers whiskey neat, when it comes to that), its appeal has never been clear to me – but to each their own.

There is, at present, no sign of the ‘house beers’ mentioned on the website (which does feel more ancient than the pub, it must be said), but at least we can debate whether ‘old’ modifies ‘ale’ or ‘ale house’ in this instance. I’d welcome a local brewery badging it as ‘Biddy’s’ if it meant a more interesting beer option, though I know not everyone is a fan of that approach, but again, the real surprise is that the atmosphere inside is really very nice. It is, after all, all about the people.

Shame about the name, but we can still just call it the Sackville Lounge, right?

Where: 16 Sackville Pl, North City, Dublin, D01 V0C7
Access from the city centre: Luas Green Line, Buses 9, 13, 14, 83, 122, 123, 10-ish minute walk
Food: Crisps
Sport: N/A
TVs: N/A
Music: 80s choons
Family-friendliness: Felt very adults-only, not in a bad way
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Mooney’s of Abbey Street, The Morris Bar, Kimchi Hophouse, Mema’s, The Big Romance, The Flowing Tide, The Palace Bar, Piper’s Corner, Bowes, JR Mahon's, The Oval Bar, and The Confession Box; also not too far from The Silver Penny if you must visit a ‘Spoons
Local sites of note: O’Connell Street, The Spire, The Portal, GPO, Custom House, Busáras, Connolly Station, Abbey Theatre, Gate Theatre, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, Ha’Penny Bridge
Haunted: The exterior signage can certainly cause nightmares
Other notes: An easy spot to begin or end a pub crawl
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Doheny and Nesbitt

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Outside Doheny & Nesbitt at nightWe kick off our 2025 pub-visiting endeavours with a stop off at Doheny and Nesbitt – a rare venture into this part of Dublin city centre.

Although Doheny and Nesbitt is very much a classic Victorian pub, the building actually began life as a Georgian house, built around 1790. But both ends of Baggot Street became more commercial in the 19th century, especially after Upper Baggot Street was further developed, and from the 1840s onward, this has been a pub. While the management and ownership has changed over time, the interior décor has ‘paused’ (to good effect) somewhere around 1885 – lots of dark, carved wood, advertising mirrors, ornate wallpapers and ceiling tiles.

Inside Doheny & NesbittIts more recent history and reputation are linked to its location and resulting clientele; as it’s so close to Leinster House (for the overseas visitors, that’s where the government ‘happens,’ and yes, that Georgian garden to the front of it is, indeed, a car park), politicians and civil servants have had a habit of dropping in over the years, giving the pub the nickname of ‘the Doheny and Nesbitt’s School of Economics,’ but on an average day, you’re more likely to see a group of tourists and (retired) civil servants; there can be more than a bit of the Old Man Pub vibe about the place.

A pint of Changing Times lager at Doheny & NesbittSome of that may also come from its beer selection; there’s the usual Guinness-and-macros lineup (plus Murphy’s), as well as two new taplines from Changing Times Brewery. I’ve debated whether or not this counts as a ‘craft’ or ‘independent’ offering, and since it seems to be replacing previous independent beer options in the pubs that have come together to serve Changing Times, rather than taking over another macro-beer tap…I’ll have to say the jury is still out. I did try the lager, and it was very much Not For Me – I would have preferred a Carlsberg clone to a Heineken one. But they do have a stout coming soon, and if they do begin to offer something a bit more compelling, I’m curious to see where it goes. For now, though, while it’s a beautiful pub with lovely service, it’s not the kind of place I personally stay for more than one drink, simply because the variety of beer options isn’t there for me. But if you’re looking for a Guinness or Murphy’s session, you are well-served in this part of town – and Doheny and Nesbitt makes a lovely backdrop if that’s what you’re after, and again, the staff are all top-notch.

But for us beer nerds, all roads lead to Underdog…I seem to always end up there after any visit to a city centre pub for just this reason, even though it’s not always the most convenient journey. But it’s always well worth the trip!

Where: 4-5 Baggot Street Lower, Dublin 2
Access from the city centre: 5-minute walk from Stephen’s Green
Food: There are breakfast/lunch/dinner and toasties menus
Sport: All the big sport options
TVs: Several throughout the building, including above the main bar
Music: Live trad & other tunes 7 nights a week
Family-friendliness: There is a kids’ menu with the usual goujons and similar options
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium-High – Toner’s, McGrattan's, Kennedy's, and O'Donoghue's are all very close, though I'd personally head further on up toward Cassidy’s, Bowes, The Oval or The Palace Bar
Local sites of note: Little Museum of Dublin, Huguenot Cemetery, St Stephen's Green, Merrion Square, Fitzwilliam Square, Royal Hibernian Academy, Oireachtas, National Library of Ireland, National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology and The Dead Zoo), National Gallery of Ireland…etc.
Haunted: A classic Victorian pub should have a good ghost story; perhaps a story-writing competition is needed
Other notes: An excellent whiskey selection
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Ginger Man

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Outside The Ginger Man: Christmas decorations galoreIn the immortal words of Noddy Holder, ‘it’s CHRIST-MAS!’

Well, even if it isn’t quite, you’d be mistaken for thinking it is if you wander into The Ginger Man after Halloween. Christmas is this pub’s thing. Every year, since the early 1990s (my brain wanted me to type ‘1970s,’ but I am told that said decade was not, in fact, 30ish years ago), the Christmas display has grown larger and larger; ‘extra’ doesn’t begin to cover it. But it’s a good kind of extra, and there is a lot of competition – pubs in Dublin tend to have a high standard of holiday sparkle at this time of year.

Inside the Ginger Man: a red glow from the decorationsThere can be a bit of a dark side to going all in on Christmas, though – a pub might attract groups of Twelve Pubs of Christmas revellers. Now, I like a pub crawl. I like a bit of festive cheer. But as with anything of this nature, its growing popularity means that weekend pub visits during the holidays can be, well, messy. Some pubs bar these groups altogether (at least, in theory). And if you’re still wondering just what the Twelve Pubs of Christmas is and where it goes, Publin did an excellent look into the history of the tradition, which does seem to have a traceable pedigree back to the 1990s, and, depending on your interpretation, it either has no rules, beyond hitting up twelve pubs, or there are many rules – just ask Reddit (or don’t, up to you). And like so many modern-day folk practices, this leads to a range of approaches…some more annoying than others and most distinctly, well, blokey.

And there are some groups out there being (reasonably) responsible, taking it slowly, staying hydrated and being mindful of bar staff and other customers – great! Others, meanwhile, are like even-more-mobile stag parties in Christmas jumpers, and are best avoided. So, if such a group is looking to make The Ginger Man one of their stops, what will they find?

More Christmas decorations upstairs at The Ginger ManWell, as mentioned, they have the ideal backdrop for the social media documentation of their special day – there is no corner of the pub lacking holiday decorations. They can also be sensible by getting a bit of food, and while the beers on offer aren’t terribly adventurous – their own-brand offerings look to be from Franciscan Well, so more or less a small step up from your standard Heineken portfolio plus Guinness, but it does give Beamish stans their fave, too. But The Ginger Man is the kind of place that’s busy no matter what – its proximity to Trinity College means there are always plenty of students and tourists, plus a big after-work crowd. There are likely smaller numbers of JP Donleavy fans coming to see a pub named after his novel, as there are other pubs frequented by Donleavy (plus, of course, Brendan Behan) or mentioned in the book, but hey, you never know…

And even if you aren’t doing a Twelve Pubs of Christmas crawl, The Ginger Man is a spot worth ticking off this time of year – there’s such a range of great holiday decoration all around Dublin, so get out there and take some in.

Where: 39-40 Fenian St, Dublin 2, D02 KD51
Access from the city centre: Already there
Food: Pub grub: burgers and tourist faves
Sport: All the usual big events are shown
TVs: Various scattered around
Music: A bit more touristy than many
Family-friendliness: There is a children’s menu, but it can be crowded
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – Kennedy’s is nearby, or wander to the other side of Trinity College for O’Neill’s, Tapped, Bowes and more
Local sites of note: Trinity College, Merrion Square, National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology), National Library of Ireland, National Gallery of Ireland
Haunted: No ghost stories mentioned – but could Brendan Behan be lurking?
Other notes: They do decorate for other holidays as well, just not quite so much
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Oval Bar

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Outside The Oval

We like to believe it’s entirely possible for a pub to cater to tourists as well as locals without crossing the line into ‘tourist trap’ or, worse, theme park simulacrum. And while there are certainly pubs in, say, Temple Bar that we tend to avoid for failing that test (often miserably), it’s good to point out Dublin’s pubs that succeed in threading that needle. And so, to The Oval Bar.

With its lovely frontage (yes, we’ve gone straight into classic pub clichés) and beautiful Edwardian-ish interior, at first glance, it looks every bit what it says on the tin, as it were – a pub from 1822, that has served as a coaching stop, a hang-out for the newspaper set and the usual mention in Ulysses. However, the pub we see today is not a carefully-looked after relic of its extensive 1903 glow-up – it was entirely destroyed, along with most of its neighbours on Abbey and Sackville Streets (modern day Middle Abbey and O’Connell Streets), in the aftermath of the Easter Rising in 1916. It was rebuilt and ready to re-open in 1922…just in time for the start of the Civil War. Happily, though, it avoided damage on that occasion, and it’s been a spot for locals and tourists alike (more or less) ever since.

Busts of Irish independence leaders inside The OvalThe Oval’s most recent refurbishment was only about a year or so ago, and while it feels fresh and tidy, there’s still enough of a patina to give it a feeling of the history of the place; the décor and grillwork have an authentic feel. The pub is divided up into multiple sections, with more of a dining-room feel upstairs, but even within the relatively small main bar area, there are distinct areas to sit and relax, either alone or to spread out with friends. And while you can, of course, have a Guinness and all the other usual big brands, The Oval has two house beers, a pale ale and lager, that are brewed for this and other Chawke Pub Group venues such as Searsons by Dundalk Bay Brewery.

The atmosphere is friendly and very much ‘Irish pub’ – although it could easily tip into Oirish Pub territory with the kind of music you typically only hear in those sorts of establishments abroad, with a mix of The Dubliners and U2 – but it manages to stay on the right side of that line with some moderately deeper cuts, repertoire-wise, and there is a live trad session every Saturday. Now, The Oval does offer events catering specifically to tourists, but the fact that I’ve never run into one of these group activities suggests they do a nice job of keeping those relatively confined.

A pint of pale ale at The OvalIndeed, every time I’ve stopped it it’s been a good mix of people from all over, either enjoying a pint before heading on to a gig at The Academy or an after-work crowd catching up before catching buses. While it doesn’t have the selection of local independent beers that its neighbour Cassidy’s enjoys, it’s a much calmer atmosphere – more of a spot to linger with a book (something I’ve seen other people do there – not just me!) and a relaxed pint.

And there is the final way to tell how successfully a pub is managing to appeal to locals and overseas tourists alike – they do not charge Temple Bar prices.

Hear, hear!

Where: 78 Middle Abbey St, North City, Dublin 1, D01 RW24
Access from the city centre: Buses 9, 13, 83, 122, 123, Luas Green Line or 8-ish minute walk
Food: Breakfast and all-day dining
Sport: All the usual big events are shown
TVs: A few around the pub, big ones come out for big events
Music: Very, very Irish, from trad to U2 (but perhaps lacking in more recent bands like Lankum)
Family-friendliness: No kids’ menu here, but plenty of options not so far away
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Palace Bar is a short walk, with Mooney’s, Cassidy’s, JR Mahon’s, Bowe’s, Piper's Corner, The Flowing Tide and many more are nearby on both sides of the river
Local sites of note: The Academy, The Spire, Jervis Shopping Centre, Trinity College, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, Ha’Penny Bridge, GPO, Abbey Theatre, Gate Theatre
Haunted: No ghost stories, though plenty of history
Other notes: As with The Palace Bar, an extensive whiskey selection
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Grogan’s

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Toasties and pints at Grogan'sThis week, we are journeying to one of those ‘needs no introduction’ pubs that’s simply part of the fabric here in Dublin, and sometimes, you just need a pint and a toastie. And so, to Grogan’s.

While the cash-only policy is, thankfully, gone, everything else is old-school in the right way. The slightly scuffed, but art-covered walls, the jumbled stools and tables, the mix of regulars and tourists and the just-right toasties that go perfectly with your pint are all present and accounted for. While Grogan’s – more correctly, Grogan’s Castle Lounge – has been a pub since 1899, the present incarnation has been going strong since the 1970s, when it became a renowned literary haunt for the likes of Patrick Kavanagh and Flann O'Brien. And while its old-school cred is very much deserved, it’s a progressive sort of old-school: Grogan’s was one of the first pubs in Dublin that served women without a fuss – and if you haven’t picked up Ali Dunworth’s recent book, A Compendium of Irish Pints, well…you should! It’s a fascinating look at the many nuances of ‘pints’ here in Ireland, and the relevant section here on how Grogan’s led the way on ‘allowing’ women to drink pints (rather than half-pints, or ‘glasses’ as they are more usually known here) IN FULL VIEW OF MALE CUSTOMERS…it was a whole thing! We also had Ali on the Beer Ladies Podcast in the season we just wrapped up, so do give a listen.

The colourful lightbox with regulars' faces on the wall at Grogan'sAnd, speaking of podcasts, there’s an entire episode of Three Castles Burning dedicated to Grogan’s, and it is very much worth your time; Donal Fallon’s always-excellent podcast is required listening for anyone visiting or living in Dublin, and it’s a fascinating story. You know when a pub has generated this much affection over the years, there’s likely a reason for it.

And while I personally tend to go to quieter pubs most of the time, it’s hard to beat Grogan’s for people-watching (inside or outside), and it’s an ideal place to meet someone as it’s so central. The toastie (with or without ham – your choice) is a perfect quick bite, and it’s especially welcome in this part of town, where the options are pricier/larger sit-down meals or the odd packet of crisps. Beer-wise, there’s obviously plenty of Guinness on offer (both full-fat and 0.0), plus O’Hara’s as a local craft choice, and there is also Beamish, Murphy’s and the lesser-spotted draught Harp (at least here in Dublin – it’s much more common in Belfast), along with the usual macro suspects.

While it’s rare to find any empty seats, Grogran’s is also the kind of pub where if you simply wait a bit, something may open up, or you may be invited to join an existing party and have a chat. You may as well…

Where: 15 William St S, Dublin 2, D02 H336
Access from the city centre: You are very central
Food: Toasties
Sport: Only verbal gymnastics
TVs: No
Music: Not here
Family-friendliness: You do see kids brought in as tourists, but it’s awfully crowded for them; still, toasties!
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Long Hall, The Hairy Lemon, Caribou, Peter's Pub, Sinnot's Bar and Bar Rua are all within stumbling distance, with many more beyond
Local sites of note: George’s Street Arcade, Gaiety Theatre, St Stephen’s Green, Dublin Castle, Chester Beatty, Craft Central (IYKYK)
Haunted: No well-known stories, but surely, at least a few old regulars would like to return…
Other notes: Grogan’s is open from 10.30 am, so you can always beat the crowds with a mid-morning tea
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Caribou

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A glass of beer, a candle and a cocktail menu at Caribou

After a bit of an unplanned break, we are back, and this week, we are heading into the city centre to check out Caribou – the new bar from the Animal Collective folk that has recently opened in the former P Mac’s spot. The recent spate of Galway Bay pub closures/rebrandings, including Against the Grain (RIP -now Teach Tábhairne Ag Teacht) and BRÚ House Fairview (now The Strand House) has not boded well for Dublin-based craft beer fans; most of the re-opened pubs have had zero or, at best, one craft tap remaining; the shift from The Beer Market to The Christchurch Inn is – so far – the only relaunch bucking that apparent trend.

While P Mac’s was not part of the Galway Bay family – its sister pubs include Cassidys and Blackbird (the other P Mac’s in Dundrum closed a bit ago), and the family resemblance was best seen through the dark spaces and drippy, red candles – it was always a spot with a nice selection of Irish craft beer, and when its closured was announced, I know I was not the only person concerned that it might be relaunched as a Fake Oirish Pub, with all macro beer and diddly-eye music for tourists, especially given its location, a short walk from St Stephen’s Green. Fortunately for us beer nerds, Caribou has us covered, with a nice selection of Irish craft beer, plus some international choices – and there are plenty of standard offerings for The Normals, too, as well as some very interesting cocktails. There is also an impressive array of alcohol-free cans and mocktails that is worth noting.

The bar at CaribouThis is no surprise, though, as the other pubs in the group have always supported independent beer; we’ve covered Bonobo before (though wouldn’t it be improved by more housing nearby, instead of a vacant site? Well, that’s another story we won’t get into here), and Impala in Cork is lovely. I have yet to make it to Kodiak in Rathmines, but I had been past the OG Caribou in Galway and knew they had a good selection as well. Rather than find a new animal, the Caribou name has been transplanted to Dublin after the closure of the Galway spot, and very pleasant it is, too.

For anyone familiar with P Mac’s and its rather cavernous feel (not a bad thing, by my reckoning), the new look and feel at Caribou is light and airy, yet in discussions with the excellent staff, they said that not much had been done to the place, structurally. The removal of a snug near the front has opened up some windows that I would never have noticed before, and the new colour palette – lots of white, faded blues and mid-century modern wood – gives it an entirely different feel. And while the old red candles are gone, they have been replaced with white pillar candles – perhaps a nod to the old space? I am obliged to credit my fellow Beer Lady Katie Malone with this idea – and it’s a good one!

In the back at Caribou - couch, table and lamp
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All told, it’s not terribly dissimilar to Bonobo in ambiance, and there are still some cosier spots toward the back for a more relaxed conversation – the absence of the front snug is no cause for concern, and I say this as someone who loves a good snug. I suspect it’s a trickier balance to get right than it might appear at first glance – there’s a difference between simply throwing together some charity shop furniture and hoping it gives off hipster vibes, versus having a more intentionally-designed space and aesthetic. There is another pub I won’t mention by name that seems to have attempted a similar ‘vibe’ and missed the mark; it ends up feeling rather impersonal and slightly chaotic (though the less-than-stellar service hasn’t helped with that). A lot of the warmth and welcome at Caribou does come from the staff, so they’ve done well in that regard, and my suspicion is that this is what cements that feel of the place. Even with a brand-new (brand-new retro?) facelift, it feels authentic in a way that some pubs and bars attempting to play in this space simply do not.

And given Caribou’s location, just around the corner from St Stephen’s News – Craft Central for Those In The Know – there’s no excuse not to have some great craft beer options, and a well-trained staff who know their stuff, so it’s great to see that tradition continue in this location. The red candles may have gone, and I did very much enjoy them, but I can still go to Cassidys for that vibe, but the new chilled-out feel that Caribou brings is most welcome in this part of Dublin.

Where: Caribou, 30 Stephen Street Lower, Dublin 2, D02 XY61
Access from the city centre: You are in it
Food: Only at lunchtime, but it’s a great selection: steak frites, nibbles, Nashville hot chicken and more
Sport: Less sport, more chat
TVs: No obvious sign
Music: Bit of jazz, bit of indie
Family-friendliness: A more grown-up (or, at least, Elder Gen Z+) vibe, but you can pop a kid in for lunch
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Hairy Lemon, Bar Rua, The Long Hall, Grogan’s, Peter’s Pub, Sinnot’s Bar and more are all within a brief stroll – and there are many more beyond
Local sites of note: St Stephen’s Green, Gaiety Theatre, Craft Central (absolutely a landmark for the beer nerds), Little Museum of Dublin, George’s Street Arcade
Haunted: There was that definitely-real incident with the hot dog ghost…
Other notes: An ideal spot for a book and a pint
Socials: Instagram