Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Jack O’Rourke’s

A quick sideways glance at Jack O'Rourke's from the outsideWe know that we tend to be biased toward pubs on the north side of the Liffey, but this week, we travel (relatively) far into south Dublin – all the way to Blackrock and . Once a quiet fishing village with a sideline in early modern highway robbery, Blackrock is now one of the bougier parts of suburban Dublin, as evidenced by it now being labelled Blackrock Village (with a capital ‘V’). But given its handy coastal location and useful DART station, it’s no surprise that this area, with its mix of historic homes and railway development, would have become spot for both day-trippers and locals.

The bar at Jack O'Rourke'sAnd while the town Village centre is not huge, it has an excellent off-license in the form of Blackrock Cellar, as well as some other independent stores, though there is not a vast array of pubs. Happily, though Jack O’Rourke’s serves many constituencies very well indeed. The pub is beautifully decorated in a broadly high Victorian style, with plenty of stained glass and deep colours. Indeed, records suggest that there has been an inn or pub here since at least the 18th century, which fits well with tales of highwaymen and shipwrecks that are tied to Blackrock. But Jack O’Rourke’s is very much a family pub, now in its fourth generation under the care of the O’Rourkes, and its design and décor fit well with the ‘1897’ date on the façade.

Pints of Hope and Wicklow Wolf at Jack O'Rourke'sThere are some lovely little snugs and the pub also has a bit of a nautical bent – the seafront is right here, after all – but it’s very welcoming to all; the standard Guinness (and Beamish!) is on offer, and there is good support for independent offerings like Hope and Wicklow Wolf, as well as Legacy Cider – craft ciders are especially hard to find across Ireland, so this is a nice bonus for fans of the apple.

All told, it’s a real gem of a pub: something of a combination of the best aspects of an Old Man Pub, paired with a welcoming atmosphere for well-behaved children, good food, local beer and excellent service. Well worth the trip on the Dart!

Where: 15 Main St, Blackrock, Dublin, A94 HN66
Access from the city centre: Buses 4, 7, 7A, DART
Food: Pub grub
Sport: Major events shown
TVs: Scattered around the pub
Music: Fairly MOR soundtrack in the background, never too loud for easy conversation
Family-friendliness: Children welcome
Pub-crawl-ability: Low – local spots like The Blackrock and The Wicked Wolf are nearby, but it’s a small selection without travel further afield
Local sites of note: Frascati Shopping Centre, Blackrock Park, Blackrock Historic Baths
Haunted: There were two massive shipwrecks just off the coast here…
Other notes: Rock Shandy was invented here – iconic!
Socials: N/A

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Gaffney & Son

Exterior of GaffneysDublin excels at Old Man Pubs. You can find them in every corner of the city; some are more scuffed-but-well-loved, like Briody’s, while others maintain their fine Victorian interiors, like The Hut, with a range of everything in between. Gaffney & Son, more commonly known as Gaffney’s, is very much at the ‘high Victorian’ end of the spectrum, but it has all the classic Old Man Pub features. There’s a bit of horse racing on, lots of Guinness, plenty of regulars and a generally calm, quiet atmosphere* in traditionally ‘pubby’ surroundings. The wood and walls are dark, the glass cut, the snugs cosy and the high-top tables are often newspaper-covered. But while it has all the Old Man Pub features, nothing about Gaffney’s feels unwelcoming – quite the opposite.

A pint of Hope (in an O'Hara's glass) at Gaffney'sThere’s a warm welcome, and not one, but two local independent beers offerings: Hope and O’Hara’s are always well-kept here. The bar serves two separate sections, each with their own respective snugs and other seating, and there are lots of little corners to duck into if you’re looking for that quiet solo pint. And it’s interesting to note that while everything you see now is very much hearkening back to the late 19th century, this is, in fact, an older pub – the original building(s) is/are Georgian, and its first license dates back to the early 18th century.

One of the snugs at Gaffney'sOur one knock on many Old Man Pubs is that they rarely offer any beers beyond the usual Guinness and Heineken (though to be fair, it’s usually an excellent Guinness from scrupulously clean tap lines), but as mentioned above, at Gaffney’s, there is good support for other choices, plus Beamish as another stout option. This beer selection, combined with the attractive interior, might just make it the perfect Dublin Old Man Pub.

Where: 5 Fairview Strand, Clontarf West, Dublin, D03 W5H0
Access from the city centre: Buses 14, 15, 27; DART to Clontarf Road
Food: Crisps
Sport: Horse racing, football, GAA, etc
TVs: Quite a few around the pub
Music: Bit of an MOR playlist, but there’s periodic live music
Family-friendliness: The Strand House up the street is a better option, but kids could get a pre-match Coke here
Pub-crawl-ability: Low, with only Clonliffe House around the corner and The Strand House is almost next door; longer walk to The Yacht Bar in Clontarf
Local sites of note: Fairview Park, Croke Park, Clontarf Promenade, Casino Marino
Haunted: No ghosts, but many portraits of past patrons
Other notes: The beer garden at the back is more of a smoking area, but it’s surprisingly spacious; dogs welcome
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

* But not on days when there’s an event at Croke Park. You have been warned.

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Nancy Hands

Outside Nancy HandsNancy Hands is an interesting pub in that it manages to feel like a local haunt and a tourist bar, but not necessarily at the same time. It has something of an advantage in its size – it can easily accommodate coach parties across its many and various spaces, and the tour groups can be reasonably quarantined from other pub-goers, while still enjoying the well-appointed pub. It’s got all the standard late 19th/early 20th century pub accoutrements: dark wood, well-polished bar, antiques and old advertising, but we wonder if the interesting copper frieze over the door is of more recent vintage – any insights, readers?

A glass of O'Hara's at Nancy HandsThe staircase formerly connected floors in Trinity College, and the beer garden out back can even be heated when necessary (though as with so many of the more interior-feeling beer gardens in Dublin, it can tend toward feeling very smoky). All told, it feels very ‘pubby,’ but what strikes me is the very noticeable vibe shift when the tour groups leave. It took a few visits to realise that it wasn’t just the freeing up of part of the pub that made the real difference; rather, it was the music. When the groups are in, the music is not just trad (there is, after all, plenty of good trad out there), but full-on diddly-eye trad – the sort of music that might have been featured on an American PBS station 40+ years ago. But once they go, there’s a break – either no music, or a change to something a bit more current. Perhaps it’s coincidence, but it’s something we’ve noticed on multiple visits – and it’s no bad thing!

'Nancy Hands' in stained glass behind the barNow, this is not to say that some of the more touristy pubs are doing their customers a disservice in any way; to the contrary, they are doing a great job of catering to multiple demographics, and more power to them. And Nancy Hands also does a great job of supporting local writers – Ali Dunworth’s excellent A Compendium of Irish Pints and our own Beer Ladies Podcast co-host Christina Wade’s Filthy Queens both feature prominently behind the bar – ideal gifts for locals and tourists alike! And while it would be nice to see a few more local independent beers on tap, the O’Hara’s is fresh and tasty, so a welcome sight.

All told, a great spot to stop in on the way to or from the Phoenix Park.

Where: 30-32 Parkgate St, Stoneybatter, Dublin 8, D08 W6X3
Access from the city centre: Buses C1/C2/C4, 4, 13, 26, 60, 69, Luas Red Line, 35ish minute walk
Food: Broad pub grub, toasties, international, ‘tourist’ and kids’ menus
Sport: All the major sport
TVs: Plenty about the pub
Music: Trad and Not trad (check the socials for live sessions)
Family-friendliness: All ages welcomed & fed
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium: while right next to Ryan’s of Parkgate Street and P.Duggan’s, with the Galway Hooker at Heuston Station, it’s a bit of a longer walk to Urban8 or the Old Royal Oak. Also possible to walk to the main pubs of Stoneybatter, or you could stroll to the Liberties to the Guinness Open Gate; also handy to hop the bus to The Saint and Rascals in Inchicore
Local sites of note: Criminal Courts of Justice, Croppies Acre, Phoenix Park, Heuston Station, Guinness Storehouse, IMMA, Collins Barracks, Kilmainham Gaol
Haunted: Did ‘Nancy Hands’ exist? The stained glass is nice, but if she did, she almost certainly haunts a different building
Other notes: Dogs are welcome. This is (kinda) Stoneybatter, after all
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: TP Smith’s

Outside TP Smith'sSometimes, it really is all about The Socials.

I confess that I’d never particularly noticed TP Smith’s, despite having frequent need to go to the Jervis Centre, the rather-depressing shopping mall just across the Luas tracks from the pub. Although some of the historic façade has been maintained, you’d be hard-pressed to notice it when walking past the mall in question, and while there are especially useful branches of Boots and Marks & Spencer contained within, there’s little else to recommend it as a destination as opposed to a duty to be ticked off a list. It has that generic, draining mall lighting you find all around the world; a therapeutic pint after venturing into this sort of consumerist hellscape is practically a balm for the soul.

Beers available at TP Smith's

My typical thank-goodness-that’s-over post-shopping pint is more typically at The Black Sheep, just a short walk away on Capel Street, but I recently caught a video on the Instas from Rascals – one of my favourite spots for a pint and pizza – recommending a visit to TP Smith’s, as they now have their delicious Sidekick IPA on tap. Sidekick may well be my favourite new beer of the last year: it’s a solid, old-school West Coast IPA – not a bit of haze. And while it’s available at Rascals itself, I’ve only ever seen it in cans closer to me. And given that I had a long-procrastinated trip to the Jervis Centre on my to-do list, it seemed like a perfect opportunity to stop in.

A pint of Rascals Sidekick at TP Smiths

The 18th century exterior – well-kept for this part of town – is quite deceptive. I was surprised by just how large this TARDIS-like pub is on the inside – three levels, and plenty of room all around. The giant mosaic on one wall and what can only be described as a ‘statement’ spiral staircase, all in copper, make quite a change from the usual pub décor. And yet, the rest of the pub has the more typical dark wood, cosy fireplaces and smaller tables and chairs to sit with groups of various sizes. But it was really the combination of the beer menu – not just two different beers from Rascals, but also several Rye River and Galway Bay beers on tap, plus some less-seen macros, like Blue Moon, Kilkenny and Smithwicks Pale Ale in addition to the more common Smithwicks Red, Guinness, Beamish and Harp. And there was another bonus: a promotion on Rascals pints, making them only €6 a pop.

While I don’t expect this bargain to last for long, it was a most welcome sight. I’m quite pleased for the good people at Rascals to have alerted me to their beers in this part of town. Given that I’ve only recently managed to make it to another hidden gem of Dublin, the medieval St Mary’s Abbey chapter house just a short walk away, I suppose I’m still in discovery mode, 5 years into life here.

Let’s hope for more ‘unexpected’ pubs offering local independent beer to appear in the near future…

Where: 9-10, Jervis St, North City, Dublin 1, D01 XV66
Access from the city centre: Luas Green Line, 10-ish minute walk
Food: Pub grub, toasties
Sport: All the sport
TVs: Quite a few all around the large pub
Music: A bit MOR
Family-friendliness: Kids’ menu got a thumbs-up from our test child
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Church, The Black Sheep, Underdog, The King’s Inn, Fidelity, Bonobo, J McNeill’s, The Norseman, Porterhouse Temple Bar…and more in all directions
Local sites of note: Jervis Centre, Chapters Bookstore, St Mary’s Abbey, Wolfe Tone Square, National Leprechaun Museum, ILAC Centre
Haunted: Next door’s long-derelict building surely has a few tales
Other notes: Part of the same ownership group as The Norseman, among others
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Hedigan’s The Brian Boru

Outside the Brian Boru: Hedigan's in neon, and mural of the man himself on horsebackLast week, we asked whether The Bloody Stream can officially be considered a railway pub. Answer: yes! This week, we are visiting a pub that will eventually (in theory) be disappearing to make way for the proposed MetroLink: Hedigan’s The Brian Boru. But all things planning- and/or transit-related in Dublin take much, much longer than they do in most other places, so you likely have a goodly amount of time to visit the pub in advance.

It’s hard to miss it if you’re walking by – the well-kept mural of its namesake king on horseback takes up most of one wall, and while his horse and armour may be a bit more High Victorian Medieval Fantasy than 11th century, well…you probably also don’t believe that Brian Borucamped on this spot‘ before the Battle of Clontarf…and that’s perfectly acceptable. But historical facts need not interfere with the enjoyment of a pleasant bit of neighbourhood art, so we’ll move swiftly inside. There are multiple snugs and seating areas, two bars and even a bright conservatory, so you can get the full dark-wood ‘Irish Pub’ experience or even catch some occasional sun in the spacious beer garden to the rear of the pub. Beer-wise, Little Fawn from The White Hag is the only independent offering, but there’s also Beamish as well as Guinness, plus the useful Guinness 0.0 and Heineken 0.0 options.

'The Brian Boru' in stained glass, from inside the pubThe pub has been here since the 1850s, and in the Hedigan family since 1904, and you can’t miss their name in neon, either. Of course, like so many pubs along this route, it’s name-checked in Ulysses, and has a useful write-up on the NBHS website, where it’s noted that its own house whiskey blend was particularly fine, and that ‘…traditionally held to be the only pub in Ireland that did not run out of whiskey during the Second World War.’ So, there’s a fair amount of history to the place – well over 200 years, all told, and there was likely an earlier pub (or pub-like) business on the spot, too. And yet, it will all have to go for the MetroLink (at some point in the future)…so what does a transit-loving pub nerd do with that information?

A pint of Guinness 0.0 at The Brian BoruWell, there have been proposals to name the future station here for the pub, possibly including some of the pub’s architectural details. And while the MetroLink wouldn’t be anything on the scale of the Tube, there’s plenty of precedent for naming stations after both extant and long-vanished pubs over on the Neighbouring Island. And it’s not as though this part of Dublin, where Phibsborough turns into Glasnevin, is short of pubs – there are many excellent ones in the area. All the same, it’s a bit of a shame there’s not a good way to incorporate the pub more fully into the eventual station, but we also desperately need real transit to the airport (among other places).

So, I suppose the message is to enjoy this pub while you can…though given how slowly the MetroLink project has gone thus far, you may have a few decades to stop by.

Where: 5 Prospect Rd, Glasnevin, Dublin, D09 PP93
Access from the city centre: Buses 9, 40, 46A, 83, 140; Luas Green Line; 30ish minute walk
Food: Lunch, dinner & kids’ menus
Sport: Football, GAA, rugby, etc…
TVs: Throughout the pub
Music: Indie faves, but also trad sessions and other live gigs
Family-friendliness: Very approachable menu and seating options
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Bald Eagle, Doyle's Corner, The Boh, The Hut and The Back Page in one direction, with The Botanic, The Gravediggers and The Tolka House in the other…
Local sites of note: Royal Canal, Glasnevin Cemetery, National Botanic Garden, Dalymount Park
Haunted: While not as close to the cemetery as The Gravediggers, surely it’s near enough for someone to craft a good ghost story
Other notes: Can get quite crowded before Bohs games; also pet-friendly
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Bloody Stream

Exterior of The Bloody Stream, complete with bins. Yellow building with dark-blue trimWe are back this week with a ‘request pub’ – one that’s much further north than our more common north-of-the-Liffey-but-still-pretty-central stomping grounds. We’re heading out of Dublin City proper to Howth; it’s an easy trip on the DART, but a bit of a pain if, for example, you needed Dublin Bus to deposit you to a nearby spot at a predetermined time. Dublin Bus is not always especially good at the concept of ‘on time’ (but it’s pretty great on ghost buses), so the journey in this general direction involved more taxis than I typically take in a 6-month period, but we got there in the end. Our (eventual) destination was The Bloody Stream, a brightly-painted pub nestled into the Howth train station complex.

Howth is much-visited by day-trippers, walkers and other sight-seers, and with good reason. It’s a seaside town with all the usual outdoor amenities as well as the occasionally-open National Transport Museum of Ireland. But it’s also a commuter town, with the aforementioned DART station running regular trains into Dublin City Centre (and on to Bray, for more seaside travels). But while the DART has only existed since the 1980s (and no, there’s still no train or tram to or from Dublin Airport), Howth Station – not to be confused with Howth Junction – has been here in something approaching its current form since the 1850s, with services going back to the 1840s. And while the interior of The Bloody Stream is dark, cosy and delightfully atmospheric, it’s not by any means an ‘old’ pub – it opened in a derelict part of the railway station in 1995 – and this is no bad thing!

Inside The Bloody Stream: dark wood chairs, fireplaceI’d recently had an exchange on the socials lamenting the lack of railway station bars in Ireland, and while we have nothing here quite like the small-but-mighty Stalybridge Station Buffet Bar, a strong case can be made that The Bloody Stream may be counted in this number (even though the pub itself is not directly accessible from the platform – possibly a disqualifying point for some). But perhaps it doesn’t feel like a railway pub – and that’s fine, too – but it is very handy for the train.

And while there is not a large number of independent beer taps, there was some very fresh Handsome Jack from Hope (located at Howth Junction, rather than in Howth – a brewery tour is highly recommended) on for our visit. There’s also Murphy’s for the stout crowd, presumably those folks who are not bitter, and plenty of Guinness. There is a sign outside encouraging visitors to ‘split the G,’ but please feel free to ignore that – though given that it is a touristy area, it’s at least a well-done sign.

A pint of Hope Handsome Jack in front of the fireplace at The Bloody StreamWe enjoyed excellent food and service when we stopped in, which isn’t necessarily a given in some pubs mid-week in the middle of the afternoon (hardly a fruitful time for most), so it was much appreciated. There is outdoor seating as well around both ends of the pub, but we kept to the more dimly-lit interior on a lovely sunny afternoon. Having offspring who actively avoid the sun may be odd to others, but hey, at least their vampiric ways are preventing long-term sun damage, and the pub interior really is lovely, all stone and dark wood.

There is one thing I couldn't discover much about, however; I’ve had multiple people ask for this pub as an addition to the ‘Haunted?‘ category, and I love nothing more than a good bit of ghostlore in a pub. However, I didn’t see anything in the pub itself, though they do give a good accounting of the area’s popular history on their menus (Vikings, battles – that sort of thing). The pub does take its name from the stream that runs underneath, so it’s at least ideally set up for Stone Tape Theory enthusiasts to take and run with…but nothing more than that. That said, there are plenty of entries for Howth in dúchas.ie, including a holy well nearby with perhaps the same water source so…does that count? Of course, if you do have a ghost story to share, please do! We need a proper ‘Irish Pub Ghost Stories’ book out there – we can’t let the Neighbouring Island have all the fun in that regard.

But all told, The Bloody Stream is a lovely pub; it does feel like a trip away from the city, and has something for both the railway enthusiast and seafood lover, while also supporting local suppliers. Far too many higher-end restaurants and pubs will trumpet their investment in local produce, but skip over the local beer, so while I’d love to see an additional tap or two, it’s good to see Hope so close to where it’s made, and in top condition.

But definitely take the train – the bus is rather woeful this far out of town!

Where: Howth Railway Station, Howth, Dublin
Access from the city centre: DART from Connelly or other handy station; 6 bus
Food: All the usual ‘nicer’ pub grub hits, very well-executed – lots of seafood, unsurprisingly
Sport: Rugby, GAA, football, etc…
TVs: Scattered here and there
Music: More touristy soundtrack – trad and U2 – but also live events
Family-friendliness: Kids’ menu and good desserts
Pub-crawl-ability: Low; nearly a 10-minute walk to many other Howth pubs like The Abbey Tavern
Local sites of note: Howth Castle, St Mary’s Abbey, Ireland’s Eye, Bog of Frogs
Haunted: Folklore-adjacent?
Other notes: Main floor toilets with lovely wallpaper
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Phil Ryan’s The Hogan Stand

Outside Phil Ryan's The Hogan StandA proper ‘Pubs of Croke Park’ roundup is long overdue, and with so many events on this summer, we may as well finally start working on that. While we’ve already covered a few handy ones like Gill’s Corner House and Juno, it’s time to really start chipping away at the full list, so that all those Oasis fans know where to find their (cigarettes and) alcohol in the area.

Although it’s obvious to those of us who live nearby (we have a handy mailing list alerting us of fixtures, crowds and even free tickets at times), it’s worth emphasizing for the out-of-town visitor that all of these pubs are absolutely slammed before big events, whether it’s a concert or big GAA game, so it can be well worth booking in advance and walking a little further to the stadium itself – or, failing that, simply starting early. The game-day or pre-concert experience is quite a different beast to what you’ll find on a quiet Sunday afternoon, but having said that, each pub in the area still has very much its own personality. This week, we’re looking at Phil Ryan’s The Hogan Stand.

A pint of Beamish at The Hogan Stand
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Like its near neighbour Gill’s Corner House, this pub occupies the ground floors of a few Georgian terraced houses, and the front has been enclosed as a covered beer garden, which can be a bit smoky. Inside, it’s very much a classic inner-city pub – a mix of dark wood, table and chairs and a fair few televisions. There’s no craft beer here – even Beamish has only been back on tap since late in 2024 – but there is great value (by Dublin standards): that Beamish is only a fiver. Again, that may be a different experience on big event days, but on a chill afternoon, it’s a welcome treat. Otherwise, there’s your standard Guinness/Heineken lineup, again with some Tuborg in the mix, and both 0.0 options for the flagship beers.

Some footy on at The Hogan StandIt’s very much a ‘locals’ pub most of the time, but a welcoming one; I’ve had out-of-town guests wind up there and have great chats with the barstaff. No frills, but no pretention, either. If you are looking to pre-game before an event at Croke Park, it’s hard to be better-placed for an easy walk in to the stadium. And, of course, the pub’s name couldn’t be more appropriate for a stopping-off point before going in to Croke Park itself – a fine way to get into the atmosphere.

Where: 514 North Circular Road, Dublin 1, Dublin, IE D01 CF57
Access from the city centre: Buses 1, 13, 14, 15, 16, 40, 122, 123; 30ish minute walk
Food: Crisps, peanuts and scampi fries
Sport: Rugby, GAA, football, horse racing…
TVs: Plenty about the place
Music: Some live music events; keep an eye on the socials
Family-friendliness: Always seem to see a few running around
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – the closest pubs to Croke Park include Gill’s Corner House, The Hideout House, Clonliffe House, Juno, McGrath's, or wander further into Drumcondra toward Fagan's or The Cat & Cage…or walk further still (all along the banks of…) the Royal Canal toward Phibsborough
Local sites of note: Croke Park, Mountjoy Square
Haunted: We need more ghost stories in this part of town to be shared
Other notes: Main-floor toilets
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Bridge 1859

Outside The Bridge 1859While it may seem that we rarely venture south of the Liffey (true, really), we recently had occasion to be down in our old Ballsbridge stomping grounds, and so returned to The Bridge 1859 for the first time in quite a while. We last stopped into this beautifully-decorated pub just before we moved out of the area, and enjoyed a last fresh Pilsner Urquell from their gravity tank. This time, the welcome was just as warm, the décor on point, the food excellent – but the beer selection nowadays is, as the kids say, mid. Let’s review.

Flower arrangement and signs for Changing TimesThere has been much local discussion surrounding the launch of Changing Times beer; it’s something of a collaborative effort among a number of pubs, including some heavy hitters like The Long Hall, Doheny & Nesbitt and The Palace Bar. While it’s proclaimed as ‘brewed in Glasnevin,’ it doesn’t seem to have a single pub north of the river serving it, at least, so far. The beers offered so far are a lager (clearly for the Heineken fan), a hazy pale ale (not really sure who it’s aimed at beyond; it feels a bit unkind to say ‘people who don’t like beer,’ but…) and now, a stout. The stout is by far the most drinkable of the three on offer so far, and seems to be the only one served at any kind of ‘discount,’ but again, it’s essentially like a very light Murphy’s versus having much of its own character. It’s one thing to launch a new beer brand, but it’s another to launch it with the kind of ‘meh’ beers that gave early-2000s investor-driven ‘craft beer’ a bad name, especially in a market with comparatively little of the real thing, as it were.

The main bar at The BridgeAnd that may be all well and good for many customers, but these new brews haven’t (mostly) muscled out the usual macro suspects; it’s the ‘good’ beers that have been jettisoned to make space, including – really a loss here – the Pilsner Urquell. Removed from The Bridge’s menu now are Rye River Upstream Pale Ale, Warsteiner lager and, er, Madri. The Madri may be no great loss, but the others are keenly felt (especially if, say, A Friend were really looking forward to a Pilsner Urquell, sighed to make do with a Warsteiner and then realised that the only drinkable lager was Carlsberg). To add insult to injury, the hand-painted panel all about Pilsner Urquell has been partially, but not entirely, covered by a television. Ouch.

A TV partially covering the former Pilsner Urquell info; look how they massacred my boy.

And I get it – it’s a pub that largely caters to a rugby crowd (albeit one of all ages – kids are quite welcome here), and so it’s not aiming to be a hangout for people who like good beer, but it did once have good beer, and now it…doesn’t. It feels rather like so many higher-end Irish restaurants do: there may be a well-curated wine list, amazing food and nothing but the most boring macro beers possible. And that’s not to say they should dump Guinness or Carlsberg – I like both Guinness and Carlsberg – but I’d much rather have the option to support other independent local breweries – at least before, there was the Rye River option. And with so many duplicate macro taps, there were plenty of spots to shuffle things around a bit instead of losing the others. Perhaps the most telling part of the visit was that our waitress didn’t even know what Pilsner Urquell was, even though it was painted behind her on the wall. As James once sang, ‘…if I hadn’t seen such riches, I could live with being poor.’

That said, it’s entirely possible that other publicans will see this effort and, perhaps, give another local beer a shot on one of their taps – we’ve previously discussed Four Provinces appearing at The Tolka House – and there are still plenty of usual suspects there for everyone – so let’s hope that some are a bit more open to experimentation. The prices are more likely to suit everyone involved, too.

But again, there are many positives at The Bridge 1859: excellent food, a lovely atmosphere, very cosy seating and attentive service. Shame about the beer – pour one out for the Pilsner Urquell

Where: 13 Ballsbridge Terrace, Dublin 4, D04 C7K6
Access from the city centre: Buses 4, 7, 7A, 38A, 39, 39A, 70, 120, E1, E2; 35ish minute walk
Food: Gastropub offerings & snacks
Sport: Rugby, football, the usual big event sports
TVs: All around the pub
Music: Veered toward the MOR
Family-friendliness: More-interesting-than-most kids’ menu
Pub-crawl-ability: Low – The Horse Show House is down the road, and a further walk to The Old Spot and The Bath Pub
Local sites of note: RDS, Aviva Stadium, various embassies, National Print Museum
Haunted: Something something Pilsner Urquell…
Other notes: Beautifully-appointed rooms upstairs for private events
Socials: Facebook, Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Walsh’s

Outside Walsh's Pub, Stoneybatter. We'll pretend the finger in the corner is a ghost.While our stats here show that you seem to be extremely interested in pubs in Stoneybatter – and quite right, too, for Stoneybatter is a lovely part of Dublin – it’s more happenstance than a response to the numbers that leads us to Walsh’s this week. And frankly, we’ve put it off for far too long, as it is a delightful pub; it just happens to be surrounded by so many of my other favourite pubs, notably L. Mulligan Grocer, Hynes’ Bar and The Barber’s Bar, so going somewhere ‘new’ when in the neighbourhood is sometimes a challenge.

The post-haircut pint in question.Of course, Walsh’s is far from new, as it’s been trading on this corner since 1826, so it’s coming up on two centuries in business. One wonders if there is to be an epic celebration next year…but back to the pub itself. It’s got a beautiful mix of stained glass and dark wood, cosy nooks and a fantastic snug…really, it’s quite close to the Platonic ideal of a late-19th century Dublin pub (albeit with televisions for the footy), so its recent restoration work has been well-planned and executed. The look and feel is certainly closer to the end of the 19th century than the beginning, but that’s no critique. And while it is best-known for its Guinness, they also serve Beamish, and there are also fresh lines of Trouble’s Ambush and Kinnegar’s Scraggy Bay – it made an ideal stopping-off point for my traditional post-haircut pint not so long ago.

'Beers' in stained glass, backwardAnd Walsh’s has another point or two in its favour: it has the full-on Victorian pub splendour, without the crush of tourists you can get at The Long Hall, and it has more variety on offer, drinks-wise, than The Hut, which also has mirrors and stained glass galore. It manages to feel like both a neighbourhood pub and a destination in its own right. And on a damp afternoon, a pint by one of the colourful windows makes for a pleasantly warming experience.

Clearly, we need to do a proper Stoneybatter pub crawl write-up…but in any event, Walsh’s would be a fine spot to begin or end such an endeavour.

Where: 6 Stoneybatter, Dublin 7, D07 A382
Access from the city centre: Buses 37, 39, 39A, 70, 83, 83A; Luas Red Line, 30ish minute walk
Food: Not 100% clear if their Cheesy Chewsdays are still a going concern…otherwise, not really
Sport: Football, rugby, GAA – the usual big events and weekend matches
TVs: Screens throughout the pub
Music: Live trad and other tunes some evenings
Family-friendliness: A few kids in with their folks to watch the sport, but still mostly for grownups
Pub-crawl-ability: High – L. Mulligan. Grocer, The Glimmer Man, The Cobblestone, The Belfry, Hynes' Bar, The Barber's Bar & Bonobo are quite close; Fidelity isn't too much further away
Local sites of note: The Lighthouse Cinema, Arbour Hill Cemetery, TUD Grangegorman
Haunted: No known stories, but the snug would be an ideal spot for a customer from the previous two centuries to linger
Other notes: Pleasant whiskey selection, too
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Tolka House

Outside The Tolka HouseWe’re back safely on the north side of the Liffey this week, and have returned to Glasnevin for a visit to The Tolka House. As with The Cat & Cage in nearby Drumcondra, there’s a better claim to being a realistically ‘old’ pub here than with, er, some pubs closer to Dublin city centre that like to trumpet an older pedigree. And while by ‘old’ in this instance, we don’t mean medieval, there has been a pub here since at least the 18th century, and quite possibly earlier. The Tolka House, so named as it is, indeed, right on the Tolka River, began documented life at The Bull’s Head.

The bar at The Tolka HouseWhile it was likely something akin to a coaching inn in that earlier phase – again, like its not-too-distant neighbour in Drumcondra – having a tourist site spring up nearby in the form of the National Botanic Gardens in the 19th century was a boon to business, similar to the relationship between the nearby Gravediggers and Glasnevin Cemetery. While the name and ‘look’ of the pub has changed over the decades (it’s just had another touch-up in the last year), much of what we see today comes from a major renovation in the 1990s. There’s quite a large covered deck in the back, and ‘bar’ and ‘restaurant’ sections inside. I’m not sure the most recent update has had time to bed in yet; it still has a bit of that somewhat over-designed feel to it, especially in the restaurant portion, but that may fade as things get a bit more of a patina again, and having things err on the side of ‘tidy’ is no bad thing.

A Four Provinces pint at The Tolka House

Despite it being relatively close to me, The Tolka House had not been one of my more usual haunts – largely because it lacked a good independent beer option. Fortunately, that has now changed, and they are proudly pouring beer from the excellent Four Provinces Brewing Co. For you, dear reader, I have taken it upon myself to try both the Féile Pale Ale and the now-renamed True Blue Lager (formerly The Poddle, with some minor recipe tweaks), and I am pleased to say that both are in excellent condition. I do need to visit the Four Provinces pub in Kimmage itself at some point soon – perhaps when their absolutely gorgeous Gob Fliuch Dark Mild is back on tap (or on cask? A lady can dream).

But back to the pub at hand; while I will never personally understand the appeal of a carvery (see also: Fagan’s), the one here at The Tolka House seems to be quite popular, and there are other options as well. For me, though, it’s knowing that there are some interesting local beer options that make me more likely to stop by; one hopes that other pubs can respond to the ever-increasing pricing from the macro brewers by making more room on their taps for independent local beer.

There’s room for all sorts.

Where: 9a Glasnevin Hill, Glasnevin, Dublin 9, D09 VH02
Access from the city centre: Buses 4, 9, 11, 83, 83A
Food: Breakfast, bar menu, larger plates, carvery
Sport: All the big sport options, especially football and rugby
TVs: Several throughout the pub, including big screens
Music: Live (chiefly non-trad) music most weekends
Family-friendliness: Children welcome in the restaurant, not in the bar
Pub-crawl-ability: Low-Medium, depending on your taste for walking; The Gravediggers is just across the cemetery, and The Botanic around the corner, but it’s not a terribly long walk into Phibsborough for The The Bald Eagle, or across Griffith Park to Fagan’s or further up into Drumcondra for The Ivy House and The Cat & Cage.
Local sites of note: National Botanic Gardens, Glasnevin Cemetery, Met Éireann building
Haunted: Not a single ghost story in active circulation; someone should really remedy this
Other notes: €6.80 a pint (for the Four Provinces beers) is not at all bad by local standards
Socials: Instagram, Facebook