It’s December, it’s properly cold in Dublin, and while we already have our roundup of our Best Pubs for Fireplaces, it’s time to turn our attention to Christmas decorations. Most pubs around town get a pretty considerable glow-up for the holidays, and even some of the more low-key Old Man Pubs can be glimmery and sparkly at this time of year.
And while the two clear front-runners in the Most Extra for Christmas race are The Ginger Man and The Hole in the Wall, there are plenty of excellent places to go if you’re looking for festive cheer (and maybe a bit of mulled wine or cider on top of your usual tipple). Most of the usual listicles that seem to repeat annually will name-check The Stag’s Head and Doheny & Nesbitt, and with good reason, but there’s a lot more to enjoy beyond the immediate city centre. The Flowing Tide and its sister pub, The King’s Inn, both have strong Christmas games, and Nancy Hands sparkles as well.
But if you do find yourself in the city centre proper, The Oval and JR Mahon’s are both extremely festive, as is The Bank Bar. But we tend to prefer staying a bit further away from the Christmas shopping parts of Dublin, once the crowds appear (though you can’t beat TP Smith’s if you’ve been trapped in the shops on Henry Street or in the Jervis Centre – they do a great job with the decorating, too). With that in mind, we always consider The Bald Eagle or The Cat and Cage top-notch for holiday cheer, but without the same level of frenzied shoppers looking to sit down to rest. Doyle’s Corner is also festooned with wreaths, and for a more modern, minimal-but-festive vibe, The Big Romance and Caribou are both good spots in which to relax.
For those looking for a Santa visit, he does appear (early and often) at the aforementioned Hole in the Wall, but also makes visits to pubs like The Two Sisters – one to keep an eye out on the socials and book ahead if that’s more your speed than a 12 Pubs of Christmas crawl. And, of course, if you are setting out on a 12 Pubs quest, please be mindful of the pub staff and your fellow pub-goers; by all means, have a good time, but don’t get messy or unpleasant.
If it’s a special holiday beer you’re looking for, we don’t get a huge number of them, and even fewer will be available in pubs – there is almost nothing in the broader ‘winter warmer’ category, much less a special Christmas ale, and even something globally-available like Sierra Nevada Celebration will only appear here and there, at pubs like The Porterhouse or Tapped…you’re better off looking into a bottle shop like Craft Central and stocking up on the seasonal stuff to have at home with your Late Late Toy Show viewing.
But whether it’s a post-shopping decompression pint or another get-together after the corporate holiday party, there’s a festive Dublin pub for every taste.
Dublin – indeed, Ireland – is not over-endowed with glorious (or even ‘fine’) train stations. Having recently 
The staff were also friendly and welcoming – how many pubs would put on the ‘Airwolf’ theme when asked to do so (not, it must be said, by us, but we did enjoy it)? And while it’s true that this part of Dublin still has a bit of a ‘reputation,’ something we’ve discussed in our entry on 
We’ll say up front that we are very much not night owls.
It’s once again worth stating, though, that it’s entirely possible that we’re not the target demographic, and that the real action begins after, say, 9 pm…by which point, we’re generally in pajamas. In this particular instance, we wanted to continue to celebrate the footy win, and so hopped back across the street to 
What happens when your favourite pub closes?
Covid lockdowns notwithstanding (and even then, there were occasions where it was possible to pop in to pick up some cans), I have never known an Underdog-free Dublin. Yes, that’s a reminder of my blow-in status, but it was one of the first local pubs I ever visited, long before moving here, as well as the last before lockdown started, just after we arrived permanently. In those days, Underdog was in the basement of Brogan’s; the damp from neighbouring Dublin Castle’s moat made things moist at times. But there were good memories from that location, most notably, the working beer engine on Fridays, and incredibly friendly regulars. The beer was a fantastic mix of interesting beers from all across Ireland, as well as choices from the UK, the US and elsewhere in Europe. The bottles and cans were just as diverse as the options on tap, and the knowledgeable crowd would happily make recommendations to visitors or newbies. I quickly got to know Paddy, the owner and all-around legend, and always felt warmly welcomed.
We still have no firm answer to that question, but it’s fair to say we made the most of the last few weeks of business; there would be no kegs left for any potential new owners to have to worry about. We brought in bottles and cans from all over the world to share as the taps ran out, and made sure that we put in extra orders at the excellent Boco Pizza across the street. From leftover Mexican-ish lager to Westvleteren 12 (and everything in between), it was all shared and, mostly, enjoyed. There were hugs, some tears and a lot of laughter on the final night.
We’ve not always been fair to 
The first point in its favour – for us, anyway – is its support for local independent beer: there are multiple 
While it’s true that when in this general direction we are more often to be found at 
While 
And it is, perhaps, fitting that Neary’s is a pub that attracts this kind of lore; its beautifully-maintained interior hearkens back to the 1880s – well, at least in the main bar downstairs – while upstairs, it’s a slightly more updated restaurant feel, but still elegantly understated. The 
On our perambulations around Dublin this week, we visit what feels like a proper dive bar…that is, assuming proper dive bars all have a few good local taps and a killer playlist. If so, then Anseo is, indeed, in that category. But its slightly-scrubby-yet-cheerful interior doesn’t entirely hide the building’s history: this is a mid-18th century house, complete with a few extant interior features, that’s been repurposed as a pub since the mid-19th century. If you 
You are most likely to be visiting Anseo to catch a gig from an up-and-coming band or artist, or, perhaps, seeing some stand-up comedy upstairs; you may also be doing a 
As regular readers know, we are always on the lookout for 
While the ‘since 1793’ date is a little shaky, given the current building’s construction 
So, ghosts aside, what is the pub like? Well…most definitely not creepy. If anything, it’s a bit too polished to feel at all like a liminal space. There are several very different sections of the pub with their own character, but none are especially dark or gloomy. The front is much more ‘pubby’ and the rear more of a restaurant or hotel bar vibe (the many large TV screens are part of what gives that impression), though it’s worth knowing that the back bar is where the sole local-craft-beer representative is; there’s a Rye River tap if you know where to look. Indeed, the food was very good – a step up from a lot of pub food, though the enormous portions are perhaps created more for tourists than locals. There’s also the usual Guinness – and Murphy’s – plus some Warsteiner.
There’s a covered outdoor space too, more 
Perhaps surprisingly to some (certainly, to us), Dublin pubs do not contain a wealth of ghostlore. There are, of course, 
We’re less inclined toward the flashy, big-name haunting at 
But we also want to shine the spectral spotlight on another pub whose apparitional associations are often overlooked: 
The 1884 is so called after 
And like many pubs in the more suburban parts of Dublin, it’s absolutely enormous inside – indeed, somewhat barn-like. But it’s all very tidy, and there’s plenty of space to spread out. There are much-appreciated coat hooks under the bar, which really should be standard everywhere, but here we are. Only a few years ago, this pub was known as Grainger’s, and it had, well, a 
And while the beer selection is mostly the usual Guinness-and-Heineken-and-so-so-much-Rockshore (despite being listed as a stockist of Hope, brewed just a bit further north), there is also the lesser-spotted Kilkenny, which has been popping up here and there of late, and it’s a nice alternative. The real hidden gem of The 1884, though, is the enormous