Back in 2021, The Dublin InQuirer ran a feature musing about Dublin neighbourhoods; some have reasonably clear boundaries, while others are more vibes-based, with considerable disagreement over whether a particular street or landmark is ‘really’ in one or another. They followed up with a request for readers to draw their neighbourhoods as they saw them, and the results, as one might imagine, were perhaps best described as lacking consensus.
And this week’s pub is a perfect illustration of that disconnect: by name and postal code, The Libertine is in, well, The Liberties, but it doesn’t feel like it’s in The Liberties. And it looks like most who contributed their thoughts agree – this is not really The Liberties. But’s it’s apparently also not Harold’s Cross, nor is it quite Portobello; per most of the mapping data, it’s in something of an undefined area, neither in nor out of a number of neighbourhoods.
This is especially interesting as The Libertine is a near neighbour of one of Dublin’s most famous fictional characters: 52 Clanbrassil Street was the home of Leopold Bloom in Ulysses, just steps away. One would think that after being mentioned explicitly in such a well-known work there would be agreement on where we are, but it would seem not.
More importantly, though, the pub.
Opening earlier this year, The Libertine replaced 57 The Headline, a renowned spot for local food and beer, under its new name and management, it also now includes a small hotel offering. It’s very much on the ‘gastro’ end of the scale, and while it was already very well-appointed inside, it’s been beautifully refinished. There’s a mix of subway tiles and patterned wood in various shades, as well as colourful seating and a variety of spaces for groups large and small.
Dog- and family-friendly by design, on our visit there were many families out enjoying Sunday brunch, but it was equally pleasant to enjoy a quiet pint at the bar. As before, there are good local independent beer options from Trouble, Wicklow Wolf and more, plus Harp and a few Belgian and German offerings. The feel is very laid-back and more casual than the newer design touches might suggest, and while we didn’t have time to try it on the occasion, all of the food looked amazing – another time.
And we also understand the impulse to simply decide to be part of one neighbourhood when one isn’t clearly assigned to you – we have the same situation in our particular Dublin non-neighbourhood – we’re on the borders of perhaps three different ones (or four, depending on who you ask), but aren’t quite ‘of’ any of them, though it can be easier to simply choose one when trying to explain directions (or, indeed, vibes) to someone.
Perhaps that’s what makes this entry appropriate for Halloween week, even without a ghost story: it’s all liminal…
Where: 57 Clanbrassil Street Lower, Dublin 8, D08 HC79
Access from the city centre: Buses F1, F2, F3, 16, 68, 122; half-hour walk
Food: Gastropub and Sunday roast offerings change seasonally; elevated bar snacks
Sport: None here
TVs: Screen-free
Music: Chill background vibes
Family-friendliness: Many families in for lunch and brunch
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – Leonard’s Corner is across the road, with Board and Harold House a bit of a longer walk away, with the many and various pubs of Camden Street like The Bleeding Horse and Anseo slightly further afield – the main pubs of The Liberties like Dudley’s, Arthur’s and The Thomas House feel…elsewhere, a good 20 minute walk away
Local sites of note: Not a tourist hotspot, but The National Stadium is nearby, the Grand Canal is right there and St Patrick’s Cathedral isn’t terribly far away
Haunted: Can a street be haunted by fictional characters? TULPA LEOPOLD BLOOM NOW.
Other notes: As in its previous guise, also a fine whiskey selection
Socials: Instagram
We’re staying on Aungier Street this week, but not for any specific ghost stories – rather, it was the pumpkin beer that brought us to
But a bit more about the pub: although it looks like your typical
At least of an evening, it was louder than most places middle-aged people like our little group tend to go – and we certainly don’t want to run into our Young Adult children out and about, that would be cringe-worthy for everyone involved – but it may well be worth a return visit for their tasty-looking brunch.
We tend to avoid bigger crowds when out and about (and, frankly, we like to be home early – sleep is important!), but we recently made an exception to stop into
It certainly leans more ‘gastro’ than ‘pub,’ but the overarching feeling about the place is ‘
And while it may feel a bit less spontaneous than your typical
And while we are usually visiting
Is it a pub, or is it a bar?
This Dame Street spot was formerly home to Berlin Bar, which was
And while it’s *slightly* confusing where you need to go to order your slice of Detroit-style pizza by Doom Slice as there is an indoor hatch that might or might not be serving, plus an outdoor one, it’s easily sorted out. It is quite a tasty slice, it must be said, and it’s one of the cheaper options for food and a pint in Dublin (without the Instagram-driven queue for Bambino – why stand outside when you can sit inside with your slice and beer)?
We’ve been rather remiss in not getting to Kavanagh’s in
We took a break from the partying to relax indoors with some pints – the sun was ‘too bright’ for the youngest in our party – and to have a general nosey around the pub. Inside it’s every inch the Victorian/Edwardian pub – there are public and lounge bars that have separate outdoor entrances, but that are also connected inside via the stained-glass-adorned doors that (also) lead to the toilets – you’ll just need confidence walking through that you know where you’re going.
But as imposing as it looks outside, it’s pleasantly warren-like inside – there’s a semi-snug near the front on one side, and a variety of cosy spots on the other, including a tiled inset that seems to have appeared from the 1930s, while the rest of the bar remained in about 1901 (the date on the façade outside does
There aren’t any independent beer offerings (and no, Beavertown certainly doesn’t count nowadays), but it is possible to do the Big Three Stouts here for those who enjoy doing their blind Guinness/Murphy’s/Beamish tasting; we tend to prefer Beamish of the three, but all were in excellent shape. As an aside on the ‘comparing stouts’ point, this is a handy area for it –
It’s true we have a tendency to stick to pubs that are north of the Liffey, but we rarely venture out into the true suburbs – we are usually still within reasonable walking distance of Dublin city centre. This week, however, we take a longish bus ride out to the wilds of Kilbarrack to visit The Bayside Inn.
Indeed, The Bayside Inn is so ‘of this place’ that it sits in the car park in the shopping centre, next to the church – all of a thoroughly 1970s vintage. One gets the feeling that not much has changed in the internal décor since the doors opened in 1974 (per the painted gold letters on the half-glass doors. Some fairy lights have been added to the open rafters, and a taxidermied bear is observing proceedings from above, but beyond the TV screens, we doubt that much has been altered. It might not be a perfect time capsule from the 1970s, but it’s also not terribly far off. And while there may be very slight visual and architectural similarities to this particular vintage of ‘estate pubs’ on the Neighbouring Island, the feeling is still very much ‘neighbourhood Dublin pub’ – it doesn’t have a ‘locals only’ vibe, even if it does have plenty of regulars (which can, of course, be said of many estate pubs in Britain, even if that’s not the popular reputation).
And some things have changed with the times; there is good support for local independent beer here, with fresh selections from Hope, brewed under 2 km away at Howth Junction, on tap. Yes, there’s Guinness and all the other usual options, but it’s nice to see smaller local businesses giving each other a helping hand. We confess we’ve only made it up here when we’ve been visiting local friends (or doing a spot of cat-sitting), but we’ve always felt very welcome here, even as only occasional drop-ins.
We venture south of the Liffey again for two purposes: bagels and beer. Whilst our main goal on our visit to
Inside, what could have been a tired 1970s-era renovation in a 19th century pub has been thoughtfully updated, keeping a bit of the old for camp and comfort, with a blend of fantastic local art, memorabilia and the finest Pride gear (not just in June, we are told, but all the year round, and it’s wonderful) well-placed on all the walls. It’s one of the most cleanly-designed pubs we’ve ever been in, but it still feels packed with personality – these aren’t the ‘hotel bar’ vibes you get
And there is truly something for everyone – sport, including an emphasis on women’s sport (FINALLY), is on various screens, there’s a monthly folk club, drag bingo and pub quizzes galore. But you’ve likely come to read about the bagels, and we wouldn’t leave you disappointed. Ireland is not generally known for its strong bagel game – see also: 
This week, we make a trip not only south of the Liffey, but nearly into the heart of Dublin 4, with a visit to
It’s very much a neighbourhood spot, welcoming local families, game day regulars and guests – you can even stay in the pub. And while its renovation of the past decade means it’s got a bit more polished wood and stained glass than many of its counterparts on the other side of the river, it never feels snobby. There are some lovely snugs – again, more stained glass – and various different spaces to spread out around this large pub. Local independent beers are well-represented (from Trouble and Wicklow Wolf on this most recent visit, though we’ve also seen Hope in the past), but this is another spot where the stout enthusiast can do the full Guinness–Beamish–Murphy’s taste test.
We will eventually do a ‘Best Pubs for the Aviva’ roundup to complement our ‘
This week, we are visiting more of an event venue than a pub, but needs must.
And it may be that this vibe is a direct result of this new space: surrounded by bland offices and corporate apartments, it now feels like an after work ‘enforced fun’ spot for company meetings. The prices certainly fall into the ‘someone else is paying’ category with an ambitiously-priced pint of Scraggy Bay on offer for €8.20 (and a service charge added to food orders, despite it being relatively difficult to find someone to take your payment when you want to leave, even at the bar).
Although it’s part of the same ownership group as
While we are
There was a strong cocktail game as well, and while we didn’t have time to sample the food, it did look rather more interesting than many other pub options…perhaps something we’ll revisit to consider adding to the
Upstairs there is a glorious sun deck, so rather than