Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Urban Brewing

Outside Urban Brewing on Custom House QuayCustom House Quay may not be the first spot that comes to mind when considering ideal pub locations in Dublin, but when the sun is out, it’s difficult to beat Urban Brewing’s beer garden. And given just how few true brewpubs there are in this city – Rascals is really the only other one at present – it’s a great place to enjoy a few pints (or cocktails) in the sun, although there are also very handy shade options, too.

A pint of Urban Brewing beer in the sunAlthough the branding is different, Urban Brewing is an outpost of Carlow Brewing, of O’Hara’s fame, which means that the core O’Hara’s beers are always available, the gorgeous Leann Folláin included (and if you haven’t read Eoghan Walsh’s thoughtful take on that beer, with beautiful illustrations by Mark Hill, you should head to Pellicle and remedy that now). But there is a rotating lineup of exclusive and one-off beers brewed here on site as well – there’s often a mild that’s a delight in warmer weather, and a variety of interesting things to try. There’s also a brewery tour you can book.

And the site is one of the main reasons to visit Urban Brewing: built into a Grade 1-listed former warehouse at Custom House Quay that has been here since at least 1820, it’s an excellent example of thoughtful and creative reuse of a heritage building – something we could really use more of in Dublin (looking at you, Aldborough House). And while I’m probably not the target audience for EPIC (as someone who lives locally, and who has no ‘Irish emigrant’ connections – I’m the opposite here), also housed in this complex, their gift shop is one of the few places on this side of the river where I can buy delicious Brona Chocolates – buy the dark chocolate Salt & Chili and thank me later.

The vaults at Urban BrewingBut what I particularly enjoy about Urban Brewing is that each part of the venue feels very different – the outside space is the go-to when the weather is good, but the modern bar in the old building has a lovely look and feel, while the vaults below are great for events – cosy and always beautifully decorated. And as a newer business in an older building, they’ve had the space to get their accessibility figured out in the retrofitting; there are lifts as well as stairs.

Oddly, in 5+ years of living nearby, I’ve not had the chance to do the brewery tour, but I imagine I’ll get around to that eventually. In the meantime, it’s always a nice surprise to find Emerald Ale, the aforementioned mild, on tap, so it’s well worth the longer walk from my usual haunts…

Where: CHQ Building, Custom House Quay, IFSC, Dublin, D01 Y6P5
Access from the city centre: Buses 14, 15, 15A, 15B, 27, 151, Luas Red Line, 18-ish minute walk
Food: Brunch, flatbreads, cheese board, tapas, sandwiches, ‘elevated’ mains and more
Sport: More pre- or post-sport
TVs: If they are there, they are well-hidden
Music: Always a varied soundtrack inside, harder to hear outside
Family-friendliness: No specific children’s menu, but handy after a tour of EPIC
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – Dockers and The Wind Jammer are across the Liffey, while The Brew Dock is a short walk away; The Morris Bar isn’t terribly far, either
Local sites of note: EPIC, Custom House, 3Arena, Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, Grand Canal Dock
Haunted: The vaults have a lovely, spooky atmosphere
Other notes: There’s also basic Eurolager if that’s your thing, as well as very nice cocktails
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Wind Jammer

Outside The Wind JammerLocals know this, but the visitor to Dublin may not know that horse racing is Kind of a Big Deal. There are endless ads from the various wagering platforms leading up to some of the larger race meetings, and as we’re in the middle of Cheltenham Week*, it seemed appropriate to venture to one of the many Old Man Pubs that draw in the betting racing crowd. And so, to The Wind Jammer.

Of course, there’s more to the pub than this; it’s one of the few remaining early houses that’s actually using its license as intended, and you can grab a pint as early as 7 am. We did a Beer Ladies Podcast (back soon!) on early houses a few years back, recorded live at Slattery’s, though these days, even there they open at the comparatively late hour of 9 am most days. Early houses have been in steady decline for decades, as their core clientele of dock workers and market porters have disappeared, though you do still get medics on night shifts and late-night clubbers, along with a set of regulars. And while we are not *just* a Three Castles Burning stan website, the recent episode on the state of early houses is well worth your time – give it a listen.

The bar at The Wind JammerBut back to The Wind Jammer: the exterior looks more than a little tired, but once in the door, it’s perhaps surprisingly tidy and well-wallpapered – not to the standard of the much-newer Morris Bar, of course, but in really rather good nick, all told. Our small crew had no trouble finding a comfortable table and were immediately trading race day tips with regulars. And while there are no craft or independent options, you can get a Beamish, and there’s plenty of Guinness 0.0 for more responsible day-drinking.

A pint of Guinness 0.0 at The Wind JammerWhile it’s only a short walk from more ‘hipster’ bars like The Dockers Bar and the various tech company offices that have sprung up nearby, it maintains very much an inner-city pub feeling – no frills, mostly regulars, but at the same time, no ‘Slaughtered Lamb’ feeling when office workers or tourists stop in; it’s a warm welcome for all.

So while there are probably not many modern use cases for the 7 am pint, and even fewer places to obtain one, you’ve still got The Wind Jammer. Whether you’re stopping in for a pint while visiting or if you have a hot tip on a horse, you’ll be in good company.

Where: 111 Townsend St, Dublin 2, D02 TX96
Access from the city centre: Buses C1/C2/C3/C4, 15A, 15B, 56A, 77A, 18-ish minute walk
Food: Crisps and peanuts
Sport: Horse racing, rugby, GAA, football…
TVs: Visible from every seat in the pub
Music: Some live music events, but more tuned to the sport
Family-friendliness: Not much for the kids to do, unless they like to follow the sport
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – The Dockers Bar, The Lombard, The Ferryman, Kennedy’s and The Ginger Man are a bit further on toward Merrion Square, but the vibe certainly changes as you head in that direction
Local sites of note: 3Arena, Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, EPIC, Grand Canal Dock
Haunted: The toilets are certainly haunted by a smoky fug
Other notes: Another Tuborg sighting – is it becoming a norm at Old Man Pubs?
Socials: Facebook

* I started with €25 and ended up with €29.60 – so no complaints! Profit.

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Dockers Bar

The main bar at The Dockers BarI’ve never seen U2 live. But like everyone of my age and fighting weight, I saw Rattle & Hum a fair few times, and back in the 1980s, I rented the U2: Live at Red Rocks VHS not infrequently. And while I completely agree that a lot of the stuff of that era of the band still slaps, I can see that the kids might find certain things about U2 a bit, well, cringe. But as a transplant to Dublin, I also don’t have that immediate animosity some seem to have to anything Bono-related – I’m essentially U2-agnostic.

A pint at The Dockers BarWhy the U2 preamble? Well, because this week’s pub, The Dockers Bar, was a U2 hangout, back in the day – but there’s nothing there now to suggest this association. One might argue that there’s little – beyond the name, of course – to record the pub’s history as an after-work spot for actual dockworkers, but in fairness, few pubs with any sort of labour history associations really trade on them, alas. But if you look a little bit harder, there are some excellent photos of dockworkers from the Docklands Archives on show – they are worth seeking out. And that’s fine; each new demographic finds what they want in a pub they frequent – some will find the history (or elements thereof) more interesting than others.

The back room at Dockers Bar - overhanging lights and muralsAnd what do those current regulars find at The Dockers Bar? It must be said that they were there in numbers on a weekend evening, so clearly, it’s working for them – is it the combination of some excellent independent Irish beer options (Rascals, Kinnegar, Trouble, Wicklow Wolf)? Or maybe they are mostly there for the Guinness, or perhaps the cocktails? The more-interesting-than-usual nibbles? In any event, it was a packed after-work scene.

The design can veer a bit toward a ‘nice hotel bar’ vibe, only because it does feel very deliberately designed, but that’s no bad thing, more of a personal taste take. While not everyone loves an Instagram wall, plenty of people do enjoy them – and the high level of ‘purposeful aesthetic’ also means that things are kept tidy – another positive. Obviously, I do not subscribe to the ‘dusty boxed and bottles = authenticity’ theory.

While on my visit it was more crowded than I personally prefer, I was still able to find a corner to relax with my pint, and given the challenges of keeping any hospitality business going in the current climate, the enthusiastic mix of young-ish office workers, tourists and pre-concert folk was a positive sign.

No Bono? No worries.

Where: 5 Sir John Rogerson’s Quay, Dublin 2, D02 P3C6
Access from the city centre: Buses C1/C2/C3/C4, 15A, 15B, 56A, 77A, 17-ish minute walk
Food: Useful snacks: flatbreads and beyond
Sport: All the usual big events are shown
TVs: Big screens in the back, more scattered around
Music: General indie vibe
Family-friendliness: More of an after-work crowd
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – not far from the BrewDog, the local ‘Spoons, The Wind Jammer and The Ferryman, but a slightly longer walk to more pub density – Urban Brewing is across the Liffey
Local sites of note: 3Arena, Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, EPIC, Grand Canal Dock
Haunted: No obvious ghost stories, but some spooky corners here and there
Other notes: Keep an eye out for live music and brunch
Socials: Instagram