Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Bloody Stream

Exterior of The Bloody Stream, complete with bins. Yellow building with dark-blue trimWe are back this week with a ‘request pub’ – one that’s much further north than our more common north-of-the-Liffey-but-still-pretty-central stomping grounds. We’re heading out of Dublin City proper to Howth; it’s an easy trip on the DART, but a bit of a pain if, for example, you needed Dublin Bus to deposit you to a nearby spot at a predetermined time. Dublin Bus is not always especially good at the concept of ‘on time’ (but it’s pretty great on ghost buses), so the journey in this general direction involved more taxis than I typically take in a 6-month period, but we got there in the end. Our (eventual) destination was The Bloody Stream, a brightly-painted pub nestled into the Howth train station complex.

Howth is much-visited by day-trippers, walkers and other sight-seers, and with good reason. It’s a seaside town with all the usual outdoor amenities as well as the occasionally-open National Transport Museum of Ireland. But it’s also a commuter town, with the aforementioned DART station running regular trains into Dublin City Centre (and on to Bray, for more seaside travels). But while the DART has only existed since the 1980s (and no, there’s still no train or tram to or from Dublin Airport), Howth Station – not to be confused with Howth Junction – has been here in something approaching its current form since the 1850s, with services going back to the 1840s. And while the interior of The Bloody Stream is dark, cosy and delightfully atmospheric, it’s not by any means an ‘old’ pub – it opened in a derelict part of the railway station in 1995 – and this is no bad thing!

Inside The Bloody Stream: dark wood chairs, fireplaceI’d recently had an exchange on the socials lamenting the lack of railway station bars in Ireland, and while we have nothing here quite like the small-but-mighty Stalybridge Station Buffet Bar, a strong case can be made that The Bloody Stream may be counted in this number (even though the pub itself is not directly accessible from the platform – possibly a disqualifying point for some). But perhaps it doesn’t feel like a railway pub – and that’s fine, too – but it is very handy for the train.

And while there is not a large number of independent beer taps, there was some very fresh Handsome Jack from Hope (located at Howth Junction, rather than in Howth – a brewery tour is highly recommended) on for our visit. There’s also Murphy’s for the stout crowd, presumably those folks who are not bitter, and plenty of Guinness. There is a sign outside encouraging visitors to ‘split the G,’ but please feel free to ignore that – though given that it is a touristy area, it’s at least a well-done sign.

A pint of Hope Handsome Jack in front of the fireplace at The Bloody StreamWe enjoyed excellent food and service when we stopped in, which isn’t necessarily a given in some pubs mid-week in the middle of the afternoon (hardly a fruitful time for most), so it was much appreciated. There is outdoor seating as well around both ends of the pub, but we kept to the more dimly-lit interior on a lovely sunny afternoon. Having offspring who actively avoid the sun may be odd to others, but hey, at least their vampiric ways are preventing long-term sun damage, and the pub interior really is lovely, all stone and dark wood.

There is one thing I couldn't discover much about, however; I’ve had multiple people ask for this pub as an addition to the ‘Haunted?‘ category, and I love nothing more than a good bit of ghostlore in a pub. However, I didn’t see anything in the pub itself, though they do give a good accounting of the area’s popular history on their menus (Vikings, battles – that sort of thing). The pub does take its name from the stream that runs underneath, so it’s at least ideally set up for Stone Tape Theory enthusiasts to take and run with…but nothing more than that. That said, there are plenty of entries for Howth in dúchas.ie, including a holy well nearby with perhaps the same water source so…does that count? Of course, if you do have a ghost story to share, please do! We need a proper ‘Irish Pub Ghost Stories’ book out there – we can’t let the Neighbouring Island have all the fun in that regard.

But all told, The Bloody Stream is a lovely pub; it does feel like a trip away from the city, and has something for both the railway enthusiast and seafood lover, while also supporting local suppliers. Far too many higher-end restaurants and pubs will trumpet their investment in local produce, but skip over the local beer, so while I’d love to see an additional tap or two, it’s good to see Hope so close to where it’s made, and in top condition.

But definitely take the train – the bus is rather woeful this far out of town!

Where: Howth Railway Station, Howth, Dublin
Access from the city centre: DART from Connelly or other handy station; 6 bus
Food: All the usual ‘nicer’ pub grub hits, very well-executed – lots of seafood, unsurprisingly
Sport: Rugby, GAA, football, etc…
TVs: Scattered here and there
Music: More touristy soundtrack – trad and U2 – but also live events
Family-friendliness: Kids’ menu and good desserts
Pub-crawl-ability: Low; nearly a 10-minute walk to many other Howth pubs like The Abbey Tavern
Local sites of note: Howth Castle, St Mary’s Abbey, Ireland’s Eye, Bog of Frogs
Haunted: Folklore-adjacent?
Other notes: Main floor toilets with lovely wallpaper
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Tapped

Outside TappedBack in the day – you know, perhaps 3 years ago – this week’s pub was The Porterhouse Central. It was a very handy spot in that you could enjoy a mix of interesting beers from Porterhouse and various guest options, but you avoided Temple Bar. Granted, you are still right in the middle of Dublin, and things could be busy. Depending on the time of year it could be full of tourists making their way from Trinity College across the street, but on the whole, it was a useful meeting point that offered more than the usual city centre beer options. Indeed, it was an ideal spot for that all-important post-race pint after the VHI Women’s Mini-Marathon (only a 10K, but we’ll let that slide). It was on that occasion that, complete with medal, I made what I didn’t realise would be my final visit to this pub under that name. Only a few weeks later, it vanished into renovation, re-emerging in its current form: Tapped.

While still a part of the larger Porterhouse group, it’s been styled very much more as a ‘bar’ vs a ‘pub,’ and it’s taken a while to settle. My first few visits were, it must be said, not great. The initial redesign felt rather like they’d ordered a ‘taproom’ kit from the early 2000s – lots of plastic, colours just a bit too bright and faux-industrial, and the service was, frankly, poor. Even on the relatively quiet times I’d stopped in, it seemed nearly impossible to get served…yet that was rather less difficult for the younger men around me, or so it seemed. Comparing notes offline at the time, it seemed quite a few other women had a similar experience, and so I essentially gave up trying for a few years.

A beer and menu at TappedHowever, I happened to be in the area and had a bit of time after a meeting, so I gave Tapped another try. I’m pleased to say that the interior, while still feeling just slightly too ‘taproom’ has been softened and improved. There is now much more comfortable seating and the lighting is more dialled-in; it feels warmer on the whole. There are screens showing the beer lineup, direct from Untappd (no relation), and there are quite a few cocktail options as well, plus many food choices – it’s vastly improved on this front. And it is certainly one of the most varied beer selections you’ll get in this part of Dublin: there are the expected options from Porterhouse and local stalwarts such as Rascals, Whiplash, Hope and Trouble. But if you’re looking for a spot to watch the rugby with less-adventurous friends, there are also ‘normal’ beers like Heineken, Guinness and Beamish, plus some useful non-alcoholic options.

The bar at Tapped

It’s not the sort of welcome you get at, say, Underdog, but service was much improved, though it’s hard to gauge how it goes at a busier time. The crowd still tended toward ‘younger,’ but that’s no bad thing…it simply didn’t feel as mixed as many other spots, and it’s natural you would get at least a bit of a ‘student’ element so close to Trinity (if not student-friendly prices).

Dare we say that Tapped is Dublin’s ‘most improved’ pub over the past year or so, at least, taking complete re-brandings out of the picture? It’s an entirely subjective take, but I feel much more warmly toward the spot…I may even stop in again after this year’s VHI Mini-Marathon.

But first, there’s the actual Dublin City Half Marathon to get through…that’s almost certainly going to be one for Juno after!

Where: 47 Nassau Street, Dublin, IE D02 P285
Access from the city centre: You are there
Food: Gastropub offerings, pizza & nibbles – even a fancy spicebag
Sport: Big events on – Six Nations, Premier League and the like
TVs: Screens throughout may show either sport or the latest Untappd check-ins
Music: Indie vibes
Family-friendliness: Feels less welcoming than in its previous incarnation, but the food menu has many options during the day
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Harty’s Bar is next door, and  Bowes, O'Neill's, Cassidy’s, Mulligans, The Palace Bar, JR Mahon's, The Oval Bar, Porterhouse Temple Bar, Kennedy’s and many, many more are all within a very short stroll
Local sites of note: Trinity College, National Library of Ireland, National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology and The Dead Zoo), Leinster House, Irish Whiskey Museum, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM
Haunted: Still missing the old Porterhouse Central wall panelling, which surely felt haunted
Other notes: Open from 11 am – 3 am if either day drinking or late nights are your thing
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Briody’s

Outside Briody'sThis week’s pub is one that we’ve both been asked to profile repeatedly, and, in nearly equal measure, begged not to reveal it as a secret hidden gem. Is it possible to satisfy both of these audiences? Let’s find out – and so, we venture back to Marlborough Street, home to The Confession Box, Piper’s Corner and The Flowing Tide. Our destination today is Briody’s, a pub whose otherwise-unremarkable exterior seems to be missing its top floor (along with its twin in the centre of the Georgian terrace)…but it simply seems to get on with things.

Inside, it’s really a single room, though there is a bookable upstairs space (don’t worry, there is a ceiling)…and while it doesn’t have the lavish cut-glass and mirrors of pubs like The Hut or Gaffney’s, it does share a common feature with those two: it’s a proper Old Man Pub. If Old Man Pubs are a new concept to you, I highly recommend picking up Ali Dunworth’s A Compendium of Irish Pints – we did also interview her on the Beer Ladies Podcast about the book – to get the full lowdown, but you certainly know one when you enter one. While I can no longer claim the honour of having been the only patron under 50 (maybe, though, 65 or so here), the number of women was vanishingly small, but in no way was it an unwelcome feeling. I have absolutely been in pubs where being the only woman was Not Great, though, interestingly, it’s never happened to me here in Ireland. Whether that’s a feature of the local scene or a function of me being too old to notice or care may be up for debate, but in any event, Briody’s felt warm and inviting, though also left me to my own devices, which was very much what I was looking for. Solo pints in some Old Man Pubs seem to turn into social occasions – looking at you, The Boh – which is all well and good when you’re in the mood for that, but it felt much more optional at Briody’s – it would have been easy to slip into conversation about the racing, but it felt equally acceptable to relax on one’s own.

A pint of Scraggy Bay at Briody'sAlso unlike many other Old Man Pubs, there was an independent beer option: Kinnegar’s Scraggy Bay. In some pubs that don’t have that kind of turnover for non-Guinness options, they aren’t always as fresh, but there were no such issues here. Guinness was, of course, plentiful, but there were many pints of lager being consumed, too – it is slightly unusual to see Tuborg on one of the taps in a Dublin pub, but I have a soft spot for many Carlsberg products, so it was quite welcome. The décor is, again, by no means fancy, but it’s very well-kept: red and cream paint, lighter wood tones and simple brass lamps on the bar. The crowd was clearly mostly regulars, and although most were deeply invested in the multiple channels of horse racing, there were other long-running conversations, too.

The bar at Briody'sAnd while it may be true that this is not the cleanest nor most well-kept part of Dublin, that is presumably part of what keeps the tourists away, Georgian architecture notwithstanding. And although some parts of Reddit may be thoroughly convinced that we’re all just waiting to get murdered north of the Liffey, there are signs of positive development; newer pubs like The Morris Bar, just a short walk away, suggest that things are slowly improving. But for a pub like Briody’s that’s been here for over a century in various guises, it seems to be content to keep its current mix of regulars and semi-regulars who drop in whenever they are in town.

And so, on their behalf, I’ll suggest you stop in for that quiet pint or two, maybe alone, maybe with 1-2 friends, but don’t overwhelm the spot with a coach tour – let Briody’s keep that ‘local pub’ vibe. With so many varied pubs to choose from in this part of town, you can mix and match styles for a unique pub crawl.

Where: 97 Marlborough Street, Dublin, IE D01 PP92
Access from the city centre: Luas Green Line, Buses 9, 13, 14, 83, 122, 123, 8-ish minute walk
Food: Toasties & similar fare
Sport: Horse racing, football, GAA & more; if you can wager on it, you can watch it
TVs: All around the small pub
Music: Very much a background soundtrack…you’ll hear the race calls over the music; also occasional live sets
Family-friendliness: More Old Man Pub
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Flowing Tide, The Confession Box, The Palace Bar, The Morris Bar, Piper's Corner, Bowes, JR Mahon’s, The Oval Bar, Mulligan's and Mooney's of Abbey Street; also not too far from The Silver Penny if you need a ‘Spoons
Local sites of note: Abbey Theatre, Gate Theatre, The Spire, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, GPO, Ha'Penny Bridge, Trinity College
Haunted: Perhaps by the missing top of the building? Would love to know the story there…the usual newspaper searches didn’t turn up much
Other notes: No need to bring your own Racing Post – there will be plenty of copies
Socials: Facebook, Instagram (both seem very quiet)

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Walsh’s

Outside Walsh's Pub, Stoneybatter. We'll pretend the finger in the corner is a ghost.While our stats here show that you seem to be extremely interested in pubs in Stoneybatter – and quite right, too, for Stoneybatter is a lovely part of Dublin – it’s more happenstance than a response to the numbers that leads us to Walsh’s this week. And frankly, we’ve put it off for far too long, as it is a delightful pub; it just happens to be surrounded by so many of my other favourite pubs, notably L. Mulligan Grocer, Hynes’ Bar and The Barber’s Bar, so going somewhere ‘new’ when in the neighbourhood is sometimes a challenge.

The post-haircut pint in question.Of course, Walsh’s is far from new, as it’s been trading on this corner since 1826, so it’s coming up on two centuries in business. One wonders if there is to be an epic celebration next year…but back to the pub itself. It’s got a beautiful mix of stained glass and dark wood, cosy nooks and a fantastic snug…really, it’s quite close to the Platonic ideal of a late-19th century Dublin pub (albeit with televisions for the footy), so its recent restoration work has been well-planned and executed. The look and feel is certainly closer to the end of the 19th century than the beginning, but that’s no critique. And while it is best-known for its Guinness, they also serve Beamish, and there are also fresh lines of Trouble’s Ambush and Kinnegar’s Scraggy Bay – it made an ideal stopping-off point for my traditional post-haircut pint not so long ago.

'Beers' in stained glass, backwardAnd Walsh’s has another point or two in its favour: it has the full-on Victorian pub splendour, without the crush of tourists you can get at The Long Hall, and it has more variety on offer, drinks-wise, than The Hut, which also has mirrors and stained glass galore. It manages to feel like both a neighbourhood pub and a destination in its own right. And on a damp afternoon, a pint by one of the colourful windows makes for a pleasantly warming experience.

Clearly, we need to do a proper Stoneybatter pub crawl write-up…but in any event, Walsh’s would be a fine spot to begin or end such an endeavour.

Where: 6 Stoneybatter, Dublin 7, D07 A382
Access from the city centre: Buses 37, 39, 39A, 70, 83, 83A; Luas Red Line, 30ish minute walk
Food: Not 100% clear if their Cheesy Chewsdays are still a going concern…otherwise, not really
Sport: Football, rugby, GAA – the usual big events and weekend matches
TVs: Screens throughout the pub
Music: Live trad and other tunes some evenings
Family-friendliness: A few kids in with their folks to watch the sport, but still mostly for grownups
Pub-crawl-ability: High – L. Mulligan. Grocer, The Glimmer Man, The Cobblestone, The Belfry, Hynes' Bar, The Barber's Bar & Bonobo are quite close; Fidelity isn't too much further away
Local sites of note: The Lighthouse Cinema, Arbour Hill Cemetery, TUD Grangegorman
Haunted: No known stories, but the snug would be an ideal spot for a customer from the previous two centuries to linger
Other notes: Pleasant whiskey selection, too
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Morris Bar

Exterior of The Morris PubSometimes, just sometimes, a fantastic new(ish) pub pops up where you least expect it. Dublin’s Talbot Street has had a lot of publicity for the wrong reasons over the past few years, and it’s true that it’s neither the tidiest nor most well-kept part of town, despite a goodly number of lovely Georgian and Victorian buildings, often hidden under layers of plastic hoardings. Indeed, until quite recently, the mid-19th century building that houses The Morris Bar was trading as a barber shop/cafe and, before that, a cash-and-carry…but its current incarnation has returned in to its c. 1920s glory.

A picture on the wall and tables inside The Morris Bar.At that time, the shopfront that is now the pub was The Morris Wallpaper Stores, and the signage from that era has been preserved above the door. The theme continues inside, with framed William Morris wallpaper samples on the exposed brick, giving a mix of industrial chic and cosy early-20th century-pub vibes. There’s a pizza spot toward the back (check for opening hours, as these things evolve) with more communal-styles tables, but the seating in the main bar is much ‘pubbier,’ and very comfortable indeed.

Framed wallpaper at The Morris Bar.There’s a good mix of the usual Guinness-and-friends offerings, but also a handy Rye River tap, as well as Beamish for the Corkonians in your life. The cocktail list is interesting as well. On our visit, the staff were all wonderful, and the attention to detail that went into the design of the pub is evident. It hits just the right mark of honouring the building’s past without feeling like a theme pub.

All told, The Morris Bar is a much-needed spot of warmth and welcome on Talbot Street; it may well become one of my usual haunts. There’s good beer, nice pizza and some thoroughly well-done historic re-use – let’s hope we can see more of this approach, all over Dublin, but it’s especially needed where it is.

I’m happy to support this movement by becoming a regular. Needs must and so on…

Where: 15 Talbot St, North City, Dublin, D01 V9P2
Access from the city centre: Luas Green Line, Buses 9, 13, 14, 83, 122, 123, 10-ish minute walk
Food: Pizza
Sport: Football and the usual big sports
TVs: Screens in the main bar
Music: Live music some evenings, nice indie mix on in the background
Family-friendliness: There’s even a kids’ pizza option
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Mooney’s of Abbey Street, Kimchi Hophouse, Mema’s, The Sackville, The Big Romance, The Flowing Tide, The Palace Bar, Piper’s Corner, Bowes, JR Mahon's, The Oval Bar, Mulligan’s and The Confession Box; also not too far from The Silver Penny if you must visit a ‘Spoons
Local sites of note: O’Connell Street, The Spire, The Portal, GPO, Custom House, Busáras, Connolly Station, Abbey Theatre, Gate Theatre, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, Ha’Penny Bridge
Haunted: The ghost sign has been tidied; are any pictures or wallpaper samples haunted?
Other notes: Fully wheelchair-accessible, which is not a given in all pubs in Ireland
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Tolka House

Outside The Tolka HouseWe’re back safely on the north side of the Liffey this week, and have returned to Glasnevin for a visit to The Tolka House. As with The Cat & Cage in nearby Drumcondra, there’s a better claim to being a realistically ‘old’ pub here than with, er, some pubs closer to Dublin city centre that like to trumpet an older pedigree. And while by ‘old’ in this instance, we don’t mean medieval, there has been a pub here since at least the 18th century, and quite possibly earlier. The Tolka House, so named as it is, indeed, right on the Tolka River, began documented life at The Bull’s Head.

The bar at The Tolka HouseWhile it was likely something akin to a coaching inn in that earlier phase – again, like its not-too-distant neighbour in Drumcondra – having a tourist site spring up nearby in the form of the National Botanic Gardens in the 19th century was a boon to business, similar to the relationship between the nearby Gravediggers and Glasnevin Cemetery. While the name and ‘look’ of the pub has changed over the decades (it’s just had another touch-up in the last year), much of what we see today comes from a major renovation in the 1990s. There’s quite a large covered deck in the back, and ‘bar’ and ‘restaurant’ sections inside. I’m not sure the most recent update has had time to bed in yet; it still has a bit of that somewhat over-designed feel to it, especially in the restaurant portion, but that may fade as things get a bit more of a patina again, and having things err on the side of ‘tidy’ is no bad thing.

A Four Provinces pint at The Tolka House

Despite it being relatively close to me, The Tolka House had not been one of my more usual haunts – largely because it lacked a good independent beer option. Fortunately, that has now changed, and they are proudly pouring beer from the excellent Four Provinces Brewing Co. For you, dear reader, I have taken it upon myself to try both the Féile Pale Ale and the now-renamed True Blue Lager (formerly The Poddle, with some minor recipe tweaks), and I am pleased to say that both are in excellent condition. I do need to visit the Four Provinces pub in Kimmage itself at some point soon – perhaps when their absolutely gorgeous Gob Fliuch Dark Mild is back on tap (or on cask? A lady can dream).

But back to the pub at hand; while I will never personally understand the appeal of a carvery (see also: Fagan’s), the one here at The Tolka House seems to be quite popular, and there are other options as well. For me, though, it’s knowing that there are some interesting local beer options that make me more likely to stop by; one hopes that other pubs can respond to the ever-increasing pricing from the macro brewers by making more room on their taps for independent local beer.

There’s room for all sorts.

Where: 9a Glasnevin Hill, Glasnevin, Dublin 9, D09 VH02
Access from the city centre: Buses 4, 9, 11, 83, 83A
Food: Breakfast, bar menu, larger plates, carvery
Sport: All the big sport options, especially football and rugby
TVs: Several throughout the pub, including big screens
Music: Live (chiefly non-trad) music most weekends
Family-friendliness: Children welcome in the restaurant, not in the bar
Pub-crawl-ability: Low-Medium, depending on your taste for walking; The Gravediggers is just across the cemetery, and The Botanic around the corner, but it’s not a terribly long walk into Phibsborough for The The Bald Eagle, or across Griffith Park to Fagan’s or further up into Drumcondra for The Ivy House and The Cat & Cage.
Local sites of note: National Botanic Gardens, Glasnevin Cemetery, Met Éireann building
Haunted: Not a single ghost story in active circulation; someone should really remedy this
Other notes: €6.80 a pint (for the Four Provinces beers) is not at all bad by local standards
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Molly’s Bar

Outside Molly's Bar: a blue exteriorIt’s been a minute since we’ve been to an entirely new pub, so it was good fun to make it in to Molly’s Bar in its first weekend of operation. After the spate of Galway Bay pub sell-offs over the past year, with very hit and miss results in their new incarnations, it was something of a surprise to see a new location popping up here in Dublin. Without getting into the complicated machinations behind the scenes in terms of the ownership structure of the various different Galway Bay pubs, it seems that things are sorted out in some fashion, so this is good news.

A pint and a candle at Molly's BarWhile much of The Liberties is blessed with Georgian and Victorian architecture, the building housing Molly’s Bar is relatively new, and not as characterful as many of its neighbours. The exterior is giving ‘breezeblock TARDIS’ in its current deep blue – quite a change from the bright pink everywhere when this was drag bar Doll Society, now decamped (well, ‘relocated’ is more apt here) to a spot inside Hyde, nearer Grafton Street. But inside, while it still has a bit of ‘new paint smell,’ the darker greens and woody tones are cosy, and the candles give a welcoming glow.

A charcuterie board at Molly's BarThe best news for beer fans is that unlike several of the ex-Galway Bay pubs, we have their core lineup, and there will be other guest beers as well in the future. But you can also bring your Guinness nerds and other macro-beer friends here – they are by no means left out, and there are cocktails as well. On our visit, everything was lovely and fresh (as you might expect) – the Lush and Full Sail were both in excellent form. Food, too, was more varied than the standard menu, or else it’s changed again – either way, the addition of the charcuterie board was most welcome, and the halloumi fries are as good as ever.

It’s still early days, so they are still getting some final touches in place, but the staff are friendly and attentive, and keen to hear feedback; it’s a promising start indeed.

Where: 101 Francis St, The Liberties, Dublin 8, D08 Y70F
Access from the city centre: Buses 9, 13, 16, 27, 49, 54A, 68, 77A, 83, 122, 123, 151, 17-ish minute walk
Food: Galway Bay menu with charcuterie board
Sport: Not typical in Galway Bay joints
TVs: No TVs
Music: Not as fabulous as in the Doll Society days, but good fun
Family-friendliness: Always easy to bring a kid to a Galway Bay pub
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Jackie’s, The Liberty Belle, Dudley’s, Love Tempo, Guinness Open Gate Brewery, The Thomas House, Swift, Arthur's, The Christchurch Inn, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle…the list goes on
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Teeling’s Distillery, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen's Church
Haunted: The old pink paint can’t be completely hidden in the toilets…there’s probably glitter, too
Other notes: There is a covered outdoor/smoking section hidden away if you keep poking around
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Glimmer Man

The Lounge Bar at The Glimmer ManThere’s been a pub on this site in Stoneybatter since around 1814, and while the current building dates to the 1880s, The Glimmer Man really came into its own in the 1990s, when the enormous back bar of the pub was constructed. The Victorian lounge bar at the front retains many details of that era (as well as much memorabilia of all sorts), but it’s hard to overstate just how full-on the collection of items in the back is – there is everything from pianos to blow-up dolls, plus a nice fireplace for good measure.

Part of the back bar at The Glimmer Man

I tend to be a bit suspicious of cash-only pubs, but happily, The Glimmer Man’s welcoming environment doesn’t give off the conspiracy vibes associated with so many businesses of that variety, and it is one of the last few holdouts after others like The Gravediggers also began accepting cards. For the unprepared visitor, there is an ATM inside the pub…though if you are me, it’s been so many years since you’ve actually got cash out, you may not recall your pin – plan ahead! And no, they don’t take Revolut.

More of the back bar at The Glimmer ManBut just what is a glimmer man, you might ask? The name comes from the Emergency/WWII-era job title – think a sort of proto-TV license inspector role – tasked with seeking out people using too much gas. It’s been applied to the pub here since at least the 1980s, though a previous proprietor, T. Lyster, is still commemorated in the tiled entrance. The Glimmer Man is very much a community hub for Stoneybatter; there are numerous events and activities that contribute to local causes. Some of this is down to capacity – the glorious, cavernous back bar area can accommodate activities of all sorts.

There’s an excellent beer selection on offer, too – plenty of Guinness, but also Beamish and a strong lineup of independent options from the likes of Larkin, Kinnegar, Wicklow Wolf, Trouble and more; it’s worth looking at both the front and back bars to get the full set of offerings.

It may be the only reason you ever need to carry cash again.

Where: 14 Stoneybatter, Dublin, D07 RK37
Access from the city centre: Buses 37, 39, 39A, 70, 83, 83A; Luas Red Line, 30ish minute walk
Food: Food truck at times, but you are welcome to bring in food from elsewhere
Sport: All the usual big events are shown
TVs: Lots of screens about the place – it’s big!
Music: All sorts – there’s a jukebox
Family-friendliness: More of a grownup scene
Pub-crawl-ability: High: L. Mulligan. Grocer is next door, Hynes’ Bar is up the road, The Cobblestone, The Belfry, The Barber's Bar & Bonobo are quite close; Fidelity and isn’t too much further away
Local sites of note: The Lighthouse Cinema, Arbour Hill Cemetery, TUD Grangegorman, Collins Barracks
Haunted: Seems an ideal spot for a haunted object or two in the back
Other notes: The cash-only policy also applies to the jukebox – bring coins
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Dockers Bar

The main bar at The Dockers BarI’ve never seen U2 live. But like everyone of my age and fighting weight, I saw Rattle & Hum a fair few times, and back in the 1980s, I rented the U2: Live at Red Rocks VHS not infrequently. And while I completely agree that a lot of the stuff of that era of the band still slaps, I can see that the kids might find certain things about U2 a bit, well, cringe. But as a transplant to Dublin, I also don’t have that immediate animosity some seem to have to anything Bono-related – I’m essentially U2-agnostic.

A pint at The Dockers BarWhy the U2 preamble? Well, because this week’s pub, The Dockers Bar, was a U2 hangout, back in the day – but there’s nothing there now to suggest this association. One might argue that there’s little – beyond the name, of course – to record the pub’s history as an after-work spot for actual dockworkers, but in fairness, few pubs with any sort of labour history associations really trade on them, alas. But if you look a little bit harder, there are some excellent photos of dockworkers from the Docklands Archives on show – they are worth seeking out. And that’s fine; each new demographic finds what they want in a pub they frequent – some will find the history (or elements thereof) more interesting than others.

The back room at Dockers Bar - overhanging lights and muralsAnd what do those current regulars find at The Dockers Bar? It must be said that they were there in numbers on a weekend evening, so clearly, it’s working for them – is it the combination of some excellent independent Irish beer options (Rascals, Kinnegar, Trouble, Wicklow Wolf)? Or maybe they are mostly there for the Guinness, or perhaps the cocktails? The more-interesting-than-usual nibbles? In any event, it was a packed after-work scene.

The design can veer a bit toward a ‘nice hotel bar’ vibe, only because it does feel very deliberately designed, but that’s no bad thing, more of a personal taste take. While not everyone loves an Instagram wall, plenty of people do enjoy them – and the high level of ‘purposeful aesthetic’ also means that things are kept tidy – another positive. Obviously, I do not subscribe to the ‘dusty boxed and bottles = authenticity’ theory.

While on my visit it was more crowded than I personally prefer, I was still able to find a corner to relax with my pint, and given the challenges of keeping any hospitality business going in the current climate, the enthusiastic mix of young-ish office workers, tourists and pre-concert folk was a positive sign.

No Bono? No worries.

Where: 5 Sir John Rogerson’s Quay, Dublin 2, D02 P3C6
Access from the city centre: Buses C1/C2/C3/C4, 15A, 15B, 56A, 77A, 17-ish minute walk
Food: Useful snacks: flatbreads and beyond
Sport: All the usual big events are shown
TVs: Big screens in the back, more scattered around
Music: General indie vibe
Family-friendliness: More of an after-work crowd
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – not far from the BrewDog, the local ‘Spoons, The Wind Jammer and The Ferryman, but a slightly longer walk to more pub density – Urban Brewing is across the Liffey
Local sites of note: 3Arena, Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, EPIC, Grand Canal Dock
Haunted: No obvious ghost stories, but some spooky corners here and there
Other notes: Keep an eye out for live music and brunch
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Oval Bar

Outside The Oval

We like to believe it’s entirely possible for a pub to cater to tourists as well as locals without crossing the line into ‘tourist trap’ or, worse, theme park simulacrum. And while there are certainly pubs in, say, Temple Bar that we tend to avoid for failing that test (often miserably), it’s good to point out Dublin’s pubs that succeed in threading that needle. And so, to The Oval Bar.

With its lovely frontage (yes, we’ve gone straight into classic pub clichés) and beautiful Edwardian-ish interior, at first glance, it looks every bit what it says on the tin, as it were – a pub from 1822, that has served as a coaching stop, a hang-out for the newspaper set and the usual mention in Ulysses. However, the pub we see today is not a carefully-looked after relic of its extensive 1903 glow-up – it was entirely destroyed, along with most of its neighbours on Abbey and Sackville Streets (modern day Middle Abbey and O’Connell Streets), in the aftermath of the Easter Rising in 1916. It was rebuilt and ready to re-open in 1922…just in time for the start of the Civil War. Happily, though, it avoided damage on that occasion, and it’s been a spot for locals and tourists alike (more or less) ever since.

Busts of Irish independence leaders inside The OvalThe Oval’s most recent refurbishment was only about a year or so ago, and while it feels fresh and tidy, there’s still enough of a patina to give it a feeling of the history of the place; the décor and grillwork have an authentic feel. The pub is divided up into multiple sections, with more of a dining-room feel upstairs, but even within the relatively small main bar area, there are distinct areas to sit and relax, either alone or to spread out with friends. And while you can, of course, have a Guinness and all the other usual big brands, The Oval has two house beers, a pale ale and lager, that are brewed for this and other Chawke Pub Group venues such as Searsons by Dundalk Bay Brewery.

The atmosphere is friendly and very much ‘Irish pub’ – although it could easily tip into Oirish Pub territory with the kind of music you typically only hear in those sorts of establishments abroad, with a mix of The Dubliners and U2 – but it manages to stay on the right side of that line with some moderately deeper cuts, repertoire-wise, and there is a live trad session every Saturday. Now, The Oval does offer events catering specifically to tourists, but the fact that I’ve never run into one of these group activities suggests they do a nice job of keeping those relatively confined.

A pint of pale ale at The OvalIndeed, every time I’ve stopped it it’s been a good mix of people from all over, either enjoying a pint before heading on to a gig at The Academy or an after-work crowd catching up before catching buses. While it doesn’t have the selection of local independent beers that its neighbour Cassidy’s enjoys, it’s a much calmer atmosphere – more of a spot to linger with a book (something I’ve seen other people do there – not just me!) and a relaxed pint.

And there is the final way to tell how successfully a pub is managing to appeal to locals and overseas tourists alike – they do not charge Temple Bar prices.

Hear, hear!

Where: 78 Middle Abbey St, North City, Dublin 1, D01 RW24
Access from the city centre: Buses 9, 13, 83, 122, 123, Luas Green Line or 8-ish minute walk
Food: Breakfast and all-day dining
Sport: All the usual big events are shown
TVs: A few around the pub, big ones come out for big events
Music: Very, very Irish, from trad to U2 (but perhaps lacking in more recent bands like Lankum)
Family-friendliness: No kids’ menu here, but plenty of options not so far away
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Palace Bar is a short walk, with Mooney’s, Cassidy’s, JR Mahon’sBowe’s, Piper's Corner, The Flowing Tide and many more are nearby on both sides of the river
Local sites of note: The Academy, The Spire, Jervis Shopping Centre, Trinity College, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, Ha’Penny Bridge, GPO, Abbey Theatre, Gate Theatre
Haunted: No ghost stories, though plenty of history
Other notes: As with The Palace Bar, an extensive whiskey selection
Socials: Instagram, Facebook