Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Harty’s Bar

The streetscape at Harty's Bar, with Tapped to its rightCask ale, as we have often complained, is something of a rarity in Ireland. While there are a few more pubs with a regular cask offering up in Belfast, here in Dublin, it is simply not a regular feature in most pubs. Happily, though, a tipoff from a reader (cheers, Ciaran!) alerted us to a beer engine in regular use at Harty’s Bar. Naturally, we dropped everything to go investigate.

A pint of Brehon Blonde next to the hand pumpOne reason this pub had not been on our radar is that, appearances notwithstanding, it’s a fairly new establishment (but also not; bear with us) – until about 18 months ago, it was the Dingle Whiskey Bar. But like its neighbour, Tapped, with whom it shares a kitchen and menu, it has had a variety of identities, both before and throughout its tenure in the broader Porterhouse portfolio. Now described as ‘a country pub in the big smoke,’ its most recent refit leans into low light, dark woods and deep reds. It also seems smaller than during its whiskey days, but we’re not certain whether this is an accurate feeling or some kind of MR James ‘Number 13’ effect happening. In any event, there’s still plenty of Dingle Whiskey, also part of the Porterhouse group, as well as others.

A view into Harty's BarWhile it doesn’t have the selection of beers next door in Tapped, with its enormous bar, for a small space, it has a good lineup of some of the more standard Porterhouse beers – the Plain Porter, Yippy IPA and Red – as well as Trouble’s Ambush. There’s also Guinness, of course, and Beamish. But as you know, we were here for the cask option: this week, it was Brehon Brewhouse’s Blonde. And cask is a great way to serve this beer; it helps bring out a bit more of the biscuity malts that are a bit harder to notice when it’s poured from a can. The bartender shared that it’s more commonly the Stony Grey IPA on the hand pump, so it was a nice changeup.

And although you can still count the pubs in Dublin with working beer engines on one hand, it’s nice to know that we are at least back to having at least 1-2 cask options available on nearly any day of the week…if you know where to go.

And to that end, we’ve added a new category: cask.

Enjoy!

Where: 44 Nassau St, Dublin, D02 YY44
Access from the city centre: Right there
Food: Pub grub and beyond
Sport: Football, GAA…the usual big sports
TVs: Small screen near the bar
Music: No music on our visit; sport instead
Family-friendliness: Depends on the time of day, but there is food
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Tapped is next door, and McDaid’s, Bowes, O’Neill’s, Cassidy's, Mulligans, The Palace Bar, JR Mahon’s, The Oval Bar, Porterhouse Temple Bar, Kennedy's and many, many more are all within a very short stroll
Local sites of note: Trinity College, National Library of Ireland, National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology and The Dead Zoo), Leinster House, Irish Whiskey Museum, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM
Haunted: Perhaps the revamp was too recent for ghosts?
Other notes: There’s even working air con…more rare still than cask ale
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Jack O’Rourke’s

A quick sideways glance at Jack O'Rourke's from the outsideWe know that we tend to be biased toward pubs on the north side of the Liffey, but this week, we travel (relatively) far into south Dublin – all the way to Blackrock and . Once a quiet fishing village with a sideline in early modern highway robbery, Blackrock is now one of the bougier parts of suburban Dublin, as evidenced by it now being labelled Blackrock Village (with a capital ‘V’). But given its handy coastal location and useful DART station, it’s no surprise that this area, with its mix of historic homes and railway development, would have become spot for both day-trippers and locals.

The bar at Jack O'Rourke'sAnd while the town Village centre is not huge, it has an excellent off-license in the form of Blackrock Cellar, as well as some other independent stores, though there is not a vast array of pubs. Happily, though Jack O’Rourke’s serves many constituencies very well indeed. The pub is beautifully decorated in a broadly high Victorian style, with plenty of stained glass and deep colours. Indeed, records suggest that there has been an inn or pub here since at least the 18th century, which fits well with tales of highwaymen and shipwrecks that are tied to Blackrock. But Jack O’Rourke’s is very much a family pub, now in its fourth generation under the care of the O’Rourkes, and its design and décor fit well with the ‘1897’ date on the façade.

Pints of Hope and Wicklow Wolf at Jack O'Rourke'sThere are some lovely little snugs and the pub also has a bit of a nautical bent – the seafront is right here, after all – but it’s very welcoming to all; the standard Guinness (and Beamish!) is on offer, and there is good support for independent offerings like Hope and Wicklow Wolf, as well as Legacy Cider – craft ciders are especially hard to find across Ireland, so this is a nice bonus for fans of the apple.

All told, it’s a real gem of a pub: something of a combination of the best aspects of an Old Man Pub, paired with a welcoming atmosphere for well-behaved children, good food, local beer and excellent service. Well worth the trip on the Dart!

Where: 15 Main St, Blackrock, Dublin, A94 HN66
Access from the city centre: Buses 4, 7, 7A, DART
Food: Pub grub
Sport: Major events shown
TVs: Scattered around the pub
Music: Fairly MOR soundtrack in the background, never too loud for easy conversation
Family-friendliness: Children welcome
Pub-crawl-ability: Low – local spots like The Blackrock and The Wicked Wolf are nearby, but it’s a small selection without travel further afield
Local sites of note: Frascati Shopping Centre, Blackrock Park, Blackrock Historic Baths
Haunted: There were two massive shipwrecks just off the coast here…
Other notes: Rock Shandy was invented here – iconic!
Socials: N/A

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Cobblestone

Outside The CobblestoneOur featured Dublin pub this week is one that has been in the ‘much requested’ queue for some time. While we had to make it a flying visit, we finally got to The Cobblestone.

In many ways, it’s difficult to think of a more iconic Dublin pub. News of its possible closure or truncation for yet another identikit hotel caused protests, including a mock funeral, and the pub was given extensive press coverage during that period of threat, including a wonderful documentary. And although The Cobblestone today is best known as ‘the’ spot for trad music, it was not always the case.

A pint of Four Provinces Piper inside The CobblestoneUntil a little over a decade ago, both before and after Smithfield’s redevelopment from a market into a mix of housing and offices, this was an early house, open at 7 am for the market traders and, later, shift workers. And as the number of early houses has continued to dwindle – even Slattery’s doesn’t always open so early these days – The Cobblestone has evolved as well. Music slowly became an integral part of the offering, along with things like Irish language and dance classes, meetups and the like. From what had been a few sessions a week, live music is now a daily part of festivities, but it’s still a very casual-yet-regular one most of the time.

It’s less a case of booking for a gig and more one of wandering into see who’s playing, and it’s one of the few options for the tourist who only has a few hours and wants to get in a bit of daytime trad at the weekend, as there’s nearly always something on. But unlike some pubs, this is by no means just a tourist hotspot – it’s a much-loved part of the community.

The crowd at The Cobblestone, early on a weekend afternoonAnd while it can be a bit rough around the edges, likely needing a few coats of paint and some repairs here and there (not to mention having slightly-infamous toilets), that’s part of the charm. Yes, it would be nice if some of the derelict buildings surrounding The Cobblestone were used for, say, housing, but it really does feel like a landmark as-is.

It’s not the pub you’d go to for food or for a long chat over a pint (though there is, of course, plenty of Guinness, plus some representation from Four Provinces) – there’s music to be heard here, albeit not in the coach-tour-with Irish-dancing-and-a-meal sense – but for trad and a true mix of locals and mostly-respectful tourists, it’s a go-to.

Where: 77 King St N, Smithfield, Dublin, D07 TP22
Access from the city centre: Buses 37, 39, 39A, 70, 83, 83A, Red Line Luas, Green Line Luas, 30ish minute walk
Food: None
Sport: No
TVs: Not here
Music: This is your spot for trad (though see also Piper’s Corner)
Family-friendliness: Kids are welcome earlier in the evenings to listen to music, if that’s their jam; it will nearly always be crowded
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Bonobo is a short walk, with, The Belfry, The Glimmer ManThe Barber’s Bar, Walsh’s, Hynes’ Bar and L Mulligan, Grocer all in Stoneybatter – with another 10 minutes in the other direction to Underdog or down Capel Street
Local sites of note: Lighthouse Cinema, Collins Barracks, Four Courts, St Michan’s Church
Haunted: Does ‘haunting’ music count?
Other notes: The ‘could be tidier’ can sometimes apply to taplines, too – you may want to check a friend’s pint first
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Best Pubs for Kids

Mac & cheese and a pint at Dudley'sIrish pubs are, broadly speaking, welcoming to all ages during the day and early evening – or, at least, they are more often than not, compared to pubs and pub-adjacent spaces in the UK or US (the never-ending ‘kids in taprooms’ debate there notwithstanding). Dublin has a wealth of pubs that are especially good at catering to families, whether it’s for a meal or just a relaxing pint for the adults and a Coke or Club Orange for the kids.

But it can be a bit confusing for the tourist; many especially family-welcoming spots may also have a ‘strictly over 21s’ sign outside (despite the legal drinking age being 18), which might seem at odds with the high chairs and kids’ meals on offer. In these instances, it’s not *actual children* with their parents who aren’t getting in. Rather, it’s all about The Youths – they can come back in unaccompanied once they’ve developed their frontal cortexes a bit more. Most, though not all, of these pubs tend to operate via a table service model, but you can also just go up to the bar as well.

So, if you’re looking for well-tested spots for the whole family, fear not – we’ve done years of research for you. Whether it’s a special occasion meal or more of a standard chicken-goujons-and-chips evening out, there are pubs that run the full spectrum. Let’s begin.

Light and wall paneling at JR Mahon'sIn the city centre, it might be useful to navigate by proximity to a few tourist attractions. If Temple Bar is on your list, but this is a family trip and not a stag or hen do, The Porterhouse gets you close to the action, albeit without as much messiness – there may even be a daytime trad session. It’s also a handy spot before or after a Vintage Tea Trips excursion, as the buses typically stop just outside. If, for some reason, you have children who desperately wanted to visit the NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, JR Mahon’s is a useful spot, and it’s a short stroll from there to Trinity College or the National Gallery. Continuing in that direction – and toward the National Museum of Ireland (the archaeology one, with the bog bodies, of course), Doheny and Nesbitt and Kennedy’s are used to catering to families.

Further south – and closer to the Aviva, if you’re here for a match – The Old Spot is one of our favourite ‘special occasion’ pubs, and children are warmly welcomed. The Merry Cobbler is also a family-friendly location, and going all the way out to Dundrum on the Luas you’ll find The Brickyard, which is ideal with kids of all ages – but let’s head back toward the centre of town.

Dublinia is a great museum for kids, and there are quite a few pubs in this part of Dublin that are perfect after an afternoon of sightseeing-with-the-small-folk (and you may need to sit down for a while if they’ve also been marched through the Guinness Storehouse). The Christchurch Inn is one of many spots in The Liberties that work well, but there is also Molly’s Bar – we’ll come back to how handy Galway Bay pubs are for families in a moment – and Dudley’s, which also has a mac & cheese that is picky-kid tested and approved. If Kilmainham Gaol is on your itinerary, the nearby Old Royal Oak does a mean toastie, and you could take various buses from here to The Circular or Rascals – also on our S-tier list.

Outside Hynes' BarGoing north of the river, Nancy Hands is good for refreshing and dining after a trip to Dublin Zoo, and Stoneybatter is full of great pubs for all. Hynes’ Bar and The Barber’s Bar both have tasty Asian street food options that kids love, if you’ve exhausted the usual burger-or-goujons choices, and L. Mulligan. Grocer is also on our ‘special night out’ list for its fantastic food and warm welcome. If you’re looking for something before or after a film at The Lighthouse or a trip to Collins Barracks, Bonobo’s pizza works, and there are toasties at The King’s Inn – the little snugs are also cosy and can help keep smaller folk contained.

There are restaurants and pubs of all sorts on Capel Street, but we’ll highlight another Galway Bay pub here with The Black Sheep. All Galway Bay pubs have a standard kids’ menu – adding bacon to the mac & cheese is a nice touch – but The Black Sheep is especially nice as they also have board games, and are very close to a number of game and comic shops.

Holidays at The Cat & Cage - always great for all the familyIf you’ve brought the family to Croke Park for a game, or perhaps just the excellent museum and tour, you are spoiled for choice in Drumcondra and Phibsborough, presuming you can nudge everyone up or down the easy canal walk, or via the playground in Griffith Park. The Cat & Cage has another well-tested children’s menu, and the mac & cheese suppli are big hits. Fagan’s has the carvery, if that’s your thing, and The Botanic even has weekend brunch with slatherings of Nutella nowadays. The Bald Eagle is a favourite – kids love the action-figure décor as well as the food – and The Back Page’s arcade section is in regular circulation for all-ages parties.

To finish heading back toward the city centre, Urban Brewing is practically on top of EPIC and the Jeanie Johnston, and in case you’re doing some shopping near O’Connell Street, The Morris Bar has a great kids’ pizza as well as excellent grown-up versions, and TP Smith’s is an oasis of calm after hitting The Jervis Centre.

In summary, there’s no shortage of good pubs to go to, even with the kids in tow, but we do have some favourites from the list above. For great pizza, we love Rascals and The Morris Bar. For a chill weekend meal, it’s over to The Cat & Cage or The Bald Eagle, and for cask ale and food after comic book shopping, it’s The Black Sheep. Special occasions are all about L. Mulligan. Grocer or The Old Spot, and it’s worth keeping an eye on the seasonal events at Brickyard for all-ages menu fun (and great beer).

Looking for more Best Pubs For… ideas? WE GOT YOU.

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Frank Ryan’s

Outside Frank Ryan'sHave we found Dublin’s darkest pub?

While the exterior of Frank Ryan’s Pub is bright-ish candy colours of pink and yellow, the interior is more None More Black. The smell of incense and the nod toward illumination with a string of fairy lights adds to the student-squat vibe, but this is a student squat for someone who takes their music collection (vinyl, presumably) quite seriously.

And while the music is a shared interest with Fidelity, just across the street, the look and feel could not be a greater contrast: Fidelity is all large windows and polished metal, while Frank Ryan’s is more found furniture and inherited memorabilia everywhere. And yet, there is a significant crossover in the Venn diagram of pub-goers: it is not at all unusual to see people shuttling between the two pubs. No doubt some of this is down to the pizza offering at Frank Ryan’s – the food at Fidelity Studio is wonderful, but it can seem more of a ‘special occasion’ meal (indeed, you may need a reservation), while the pizza can be a more affordable handy mid-session snack or meal.

Pizza and a Carlsberg at Frank Ryan's

While we wouldn’t quite put the pizza in the same class as MeMa’s or The Morris Bar (not to mention Rascals, which is next-level), it is tasty. The beer offerings are a bit more pedestrian than some in the area – the O’Hara’s and Hopefully taps seemed a bit tired – but the Carlsberg was quite lively, and there’s always the Guinness. Again, though, there’s a world of options just across the street at Fidelity on the beer front, and with such proximity, there’s no need to choose just the one type of establishment. And sometimes, there’s nothing better to pair with a pizza than a fresh Carlsberg.

There is some light to be found toward the front and back of Frank Ryan’s (if you’re the sort of person who prefers to see your pizza or pint), and there’s even a seating area at the rear that splits the difference between a small beer garden and a Pavement Pints setup; we’ll allow arguments either way.

Inside Frank Ryan's: barrels, tables and fairy lightsAll told, though, the vibe at Frank Ryan’s is extremely laid-back, and it can be a respite from the sun on a hot day; it’s not the sort of pub that’s going to be to everyone’s taste, but with so many in the broader Smithfield/Stoneybatter area, there’s a pub for nearly everyone.

Just remember to have the light on your phone handy here.

Where: 5 Queen St, Smithfield, Dublin 7, D07 T227
Access from the city centre: Buses C1, C2, C3, C4, 37, 39, 39A, 70, 83, 83A, Red Line Luas, 20ish minute walk
Food: Pizza
Sport: Not likely
TVs: If they are there, they are hidden in the dark
Music: Eclectic mix of jazz, Afrobeats and other good stuff; live jazz on Thursdays
Family-friendliness: Saw a few mid-size small folk getting pizza
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Fidelity is right across the street, and Bonobo, The Cobblestone, The Belfry, The Brazen Head, The Barber’s Bar, Walsh’s, Hynes’ Bar and L Mulligan, Grocer are all within a few minutes' walk – and that's just getting started
Local sites of note: Lighthouse Cinema, Collins Barracks, Four Courts, St Michan’s Church, St Audoen’s Church, Christ Church Cathedral, Dublinia, Guinness Storehouse
Haunted: I mean, it *is* dark…
Other notes: The women’s toilet is hidden behind the ‘gents’ sign and neither seems especially accessible; dogs welcome
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Gaffney & Son

Exterior of GaffneysDublin excels at Old Man Pubs. You can find them in every corner of the city; some are more scuffed-but-well-loved, like Briody’s, while others maintain their fine Victorian interiors, like The Hut, with a range of everything in between. Gaffney & Son, more commonly known as Gaffney’s, is very much at the ‘high Victorian’ end of the spectrum, but it has all the classic Old Man Pub features. There’s a bit of horse racing on, lots of Guinness, plenty of regulars and a generally calm, quiet atmosphere* in traditionally ‘pubby’ surroundings. The wood and walls are dark, the glass cut, the snugs cosy and the high-top tables are often newspaper-covered. But while it has all the Old Man Pub features, nothing about Gaffney’s feels unwelcoming – quite the opposite.

A pint of Hope (in an O'Hara's glass) at Gaffney'sThere’s a warm welcome, and not one, but two local independent beers offerings: Hope and O’Hara’s are always well-kept here. The bar serves two separate sections, each with their own respective snugs and other seating, and there are lots of little corners to duck into if you’re looking for that quiet solo pint. And it’s interesting to note that while everything you see now is very much hearkening back to the late 19th century, this is, in fact, an older pub – the original building(s) is/are Georgian, and its first license dates back to the early 18th century.

One of the snugs at Gaffney'sOur one knock on many Old Man Pubs is that they rarely offer any beers beyond the usual Guinness and Heineken (though to be fair, it’s usually an excellent Guinness from scrupulously clean tap lines), but as mentioned above, at Gaffney’s, there is good support for other choices, plus Beamish as another stout option. This beer selection, combined with the attractive interior, might just make it the perfect Dublin Old Man Pub.

Where: 5 Fairview Strand, Clontarf West, Dublin, D03 W5H0
Access from the city centre: Buses 14, 15, 27; DART to Clontarf Road
Food: Crisps
Sport: Horse racing, football, GAA, etc
TVs: Quite a few around the pub
Music: Bit of an MOR playlist, but there’s periodic live music
Family-friendliness: The Strand House up the street is a better option, but kids could get a pre-match Coke here
Pub-crawl-ability: Low, with only Clonliffe House around the corner and The Strand House is almost next door; longer walk to The Yacht Bar in Clontarf
Local sites of note: Fairview Park, Croke Park, Clontarf Promenade, Casino Marino
Haunted: No ghosts, but many portraits of past patrons
Other notes: The beer garden at the back is more of a smoking area, but it’s surprisingly spacious; dogs welcome
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

* But not on days when there’s an event at Croke Park. You have been warned.

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: McDaid’s

Outside McDaid'sIt’s time for another one of our rare trips into Dublin city centre proper with a visit to McDaid’s, a pub with a fine literary heritage. Granted, there are many, many pubs here with similar claims to fame, but most do come by it quite honestly. There’s the requisite Brendan Behan connection (this is a pub, after all), but it was also a haunt of Seamus Heaney, Patrick Kavanagh, Flann O’Brien, and J.P. Donleavy, before there was something of a writerly migration to Grogan’s in the 1970s.

The bar at McDaid's

Inside, the feel is ‘classic Irish pub’ in a more weathered, relaxed way than you find elsewhere in this part of town; the crowds are spilling out onto the footpath at Kehoe’s, but it’s it bit calmer at McDaid’s. There are some lovely tiles all around the pub, and the dark wood and red leather is cosy and lived-in. The usual Guinness is available and well-kept, and there’s an O’Hara’s tap for the indie beer fan – something that is far from guaranteed in this part of Dublin.

An O'Hara's at McDaid'sIt would be interesting to do a deeper dive into the history of the building and previous pubs trading on this site…the ‘est 1779’ above the door has little to do with the current incarnation of the pub, which is a mid-20th century affair, and the building that houses it is from the late 19th century. There are several ‘facts’ traded around about its past (‘former morgue!’ ‘Moravian chapel!’) which likely have the odd grains of truth here and there – the stained glass and frontage do have an ecclesiastical feel – but one does wonder where the 1779 date came from.

Still, we wouldn’t want to get in the way of a good story, especially in a pub with such a storied past; it’s often a blissfully-chill spot in an area that can be heaving with tourists and students. A good ghost story wouldn’t go amiss.

Where: 3 Harry St, Dublin, D02 NC42
Access from the city centre: In it
Food: Crisps
Sport: On when there’s a big game
TVs: Above the main entry
Music: Bit of an MOR playlist
Family-friendliness: Not really ideal for the littles
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Kehoe’s, Grogan’s, The Hairy Lemon, The Long Hall, Tapped, Bruxelles, Neary’s, Bar Rua, Davy Byrne’s…and many, many more
Local sites of note: Grafton Street, Gaiety Theatre, St Stephen’s Green, Trinity College, National Gallery, National Library of Ireland, National Museum of Archaeology, Leinster House, Little Museum of Dublin
Haunted: Seems odd there isn’t a literary ghost story
Other notes: Worryingly narrow stairs up to the toilets
Socials: None in general usage

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Kodiak

A menu, candle and beer at KodiakThe recent run of warm weather has led to prioritising pubs with lovely beer gardens that we haven’t yet visited, and the news that the Animal Collective group – they of Bonobo and Caribou fame – will be opening another location soon(ish) in Bolands Mills* bumped a trip to Kodiak higher up on the list. And it does involve a bit of a ‘trip’ – not just south of the river, but south of Dublin city centre, too. And so, to leafy Rathmines.

For the uninitiated, Rathmines has something of a dual reputation as both ‘Flatland,’ with many of the large, 19th century homes subdivided, but it seems to have more recently become a destination close-in suburb for more well-to-do families, many of whom have reconstituted some of those homes; there is no shortage of trees, nor of high-end prams; comparisons to Park Slope in Brooklyn or Wandsworth in London would both be apt. Kodiak fits perfectly into this mix, with its great beer and cocktails, wide array of plants dotted throughout the bar and a mix of different seating areas, from long tables to cosy sofas and chairs with lots of antique lamps and the like. Yes, it would probably be just as ‘at home’ in London or New York, but it does have a distinctly local vibe, too.

A cosy corner at KodiakA recent BlueSky chat was a reminder that unlike the Neighbouring Island, we have few pubs that are a middle ground between Old Man Pubs, with a standard macro lineup (always Guinness, of course, plus Heineken or perhaps Carlsberg) and ‘hipster’ pubs with interesting craft beers…there’s no direct equivalent of a free house with a mix of standard macros, family brewery offerings on cask (sob) and local indies here in Ireland (with a very few exceptions – TP Smith’s is one that comes to mind). In most cases, if you want something other than Guinness, you need to find your closest local ‘hipster’ pub for more than a unique tap or two, if that. But arguably, perhaps as a result, Dublin’s ‘hipster’ pubs can feel a bit more inclusive than they might in San Francisco or Sarajevo – there’s always a broad mix of ages, genders and styles in places like Kodiak or its sister bars, whereas in similar pubs in some other places, not being a youngish white male with a beard and/or skateboard may make one stand out a bit.

But what makes Kodiak feel like ‘Dublin’ vs ‘Craftonia?’ Certainly, the staff are the first element – friendly and knowledgeable about the local beers, and happy to offer opinions (or make interesting cocktails). The art on the walls is very local and independent – this doesn’t feel like ‘old local maps’ at a Wetherspoons – and the vibe just feels, well, local.

Beer Ladies at KodiakIt’s also worth mentioning just how spacious Kodiak is – the main floor has two full bars, each with its own distinct feel (one darker, one brighter) and tap lineup, so for you beer nerds, check out both, and then there’s the large beer garden at the back. Then there’s even more upstairs (shuffleboard!) – hangout spaces that would be ideal for parties, and the well-designed toilets can be reached via lift or stairs. Indeed, simply by moving around different parts of the pub, you can switch up your experience of the place: start off with a chill solo pint in subdued lighting, then grab some sun with friends.

Finally, there’s that drinks selection we’ve already discussed, but Kodiak deserves a special nod for their fantastic canned and bottled selection; there’s a menu at each table, true, but the tall cases are next to, rather than behind, the bar, so it’s easy to take a proper look to see if there are new additions or special releases.

All told, it’s a shame it’s taken us this long to get to Kodiak – it’s a great spot, and a worthy addition to both the beer garden and craft beer lists.

Where: 304 Rathmines Rd Lower, Rathmines, Dublin, D06 W3Y1
Access from the city centre: Buses 14, 15, 15A, 15B, 65B, 83, 83A, 140, Luas Green Line and a walk from Ranelagh or a c. 40 minute walk
Food: Pizza
Sport: Music-forward, rather than sport-forward
TVs: More foliage than screens
Music: Lots of music the Youths like as well as GenX faves
Family-friendliness: Plenty of space for late-afternoon weekend pizza with the kids, but a grownup vibe later
Pub-crawl-ability: Low-medium – Rody Boland’s, Mother Reilly’s, Murphy’s, and Martin B Slattery’s are all local haunts, but not many other ‘destination’ pubs, and a bit of a walk into Ranelagh for more
Local sites of note: Stella Cinema, Cathal Brugha Barracks
Haunted: Not a creak or moan of note
Other notes: High on the ‘beer garden’ list; dog-friendly
Socials: Instagram

*Another Grindstone Café, from the team behind Brickyard, is also in the works at Bolands Mills

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Best Pubs for Craft Beer

Outside Underdog at nightIt’s July, and that mean a happy birthday to Underdog – Dublin’s finest craft beer* bar. And while independent beer of all stripes is not nearly as ubiquitous here in Ireland as in many other countries, given that the majority of pubs are still generally ‘Guinness and Heineken‘ shops, there are some other standout spots; let’s dive in.

Porterhouse began as a brewpub, and their Temple Bar location still offers a range of their own beers, as well as a few guest taps. There is also sometimes a cask option, which is very much a rarity here, and that beer selection makes it the only spot in Temple Bar we’ll willingly visit. And while no longer Porterhouse-branded, Tapped – formerly Porterhouse Central – also has a wide range of local and European craft beers. There are Galway Bay pubs all over Dublin, and while they aren’t brewpubs in the brewed-on-site sense, they do offer a standard and rotating group of Galway Bay beers. Some of our favourite Galway Bay pubs include The Black Sheep (also the only other spot you might find a cask option), Molly’s Bar, The Beer Temple/The Oak and The Brew Dock. And while all offer food as well, each pub has its own vibe, so it’s worth trying a few to find your favourite.

A pint at BonoboDudley’s usually has a nice selection, as does The Belfry, and the Animal Collective spots are always reliable: Caribou, Kodiak and Bonobo have a nice mix of independent beers on tap and in cans and bottles. Bonobo is also Kinnegar’s local spot for Tap Room Only (TRO) beers in Dublin, so you don’t need to go all the way up to Donegal for some of their rarer offerings. And speaking of taprooms, they are very much an exception instead of a rule in Ireland, but O Brother has recently opened one down in Greystones, so just accessible via Dart.

Also somewhere in between ‘taproom’ and ‘brewpub’ is Rascals, which does offer the best of both worlds – a full production brewery, pilot brews and excellent pizza. Rascals beers are also available at some of the better ‘normal’ pubs around town like TP Smith’s, The Cat & Cage and The Bald Eagle (to name just a few). And there are two brewery tours that you can arrange with advance booking – both Hope and Rye River offer these options. We’d consider the Guinness Storehouse a ‘brand experience’ rather than a brewery tour, and arguably the same is true of the neighbouring Open Gate Brewery, but the Open Gate does have some seasonal specials, interesting test brews and excellent pretzels – it’s also more or less in the taproom category. The Four Provinces in Kimmage carries their own beer (they make an amazing mild that we can’t wait to have back in more regular service), but looks like a ‘typical’ pub in other respects, and there’s a bit of everything at The Circular.

Ballykilcavan Bambrick's Brown at Juno‘Foodie’ pubs with good craft beer options include L Mulligan. Grocer and Juno (which has some secret Ballykilcavan cans – something we especially love) – booking is highly recommended for both. Brickyard also offers a fantastic selection of food and beers that’s nearly unparalleled, semi-suburban location notwithstanding, while Urban Brewing has excellent food and beers from O’Hara’s, plus local specials. We have a few other favourite pubs that only offer one or two independent taps, like The Morris Bar, MeMa’s, Doyle’s Corner, Hynes’ Bar, The Palace Bar and The Barber’s Bar.

Finally, no list of craft beer in Dublin would be complete without a mention of Fidelity, Whiplash’s beautiful bar with its custom tap lines and sound system, and their smaller sister pub on Parnell Street, The Big Romance. Both offer fresh beers from Whiplash and their friends, as well as cocktails and music. There’s louder music in an enjoyably dive-y setting at Cassidy’s, but it’s got one of the best beer selections in the city – if you don’t mind shouting a bit.

And while we absolutely understand that everyone is going to have that pint of Guinness in town – we’d recommend The Hut or The Gravediggers – there’s a much wider range of independent Irish beer to enjoy; you just need to know where to go. We got you.

 

* yes, we all agree ‘craft beer’ means everything and nothing…and yet, everyone ‘knows’ what you mean…

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Belfry

Outside The BelfryStoneybatter has an abundance of riches when it comes to pubs, with classics like The Glimmer Man, Walsh’s and L. Mulligan. Grocer, all within steps of one another – and that’s before you include other fantastic spots like Hynes’ Bar and The Barber’s Bar, just a bit further apart from those three. As a result, it’s taken an absolute age for us to get around to profiling The Belfry, despite it long being on the to-do list.

While the handsome, all-black-painted building has the kind of also-dark colours, subdued lighting and cosy reclaimed furniture that you might find in broadly similar pubs from Carroll Gardens to Dalston, The Belfry – like all its neighbours – feels very much part of the fabric of Stoneybatter. Indeed, one of the reasons we haven’t been able to write it up before now is that on previous attempts to visit, it was too crowded to get halfway-decent pictures; certainly not a bad ‘problem’ for a pub to have. And on every occasion, the lively crowd has been a great mix of locals of all ages, students from the nearby TUD campus and even Olds like us.

Inside The BelfryAnd the attractions are many: great support for local independent beers from the likes of Hope, Kinnegar, Trouble and The White Hag, as well as a notable cocktail list. For the more ‘traditional’ drinker, it’s possible to get Guinness, Beamish and Murphy’s, so if you’re one of those who enjoys doing the blind taste test of all three, The Belfry has you sorted. There’s also a wonderful little beer garden, and plenty of events that are very much rooted in the local community. It was an absolute oasis for this year’s instalment of the always-busy-but-great-vibes Stoneybatter Festival (yes, you could park your child inside for them to have a sit-down and a snack). This being Stoneybatter, there are always lots of dogs as well. It’s also important to point out that not only is there a main-floor toilet, it’s a properly-accessible one – something of a rarity in much of Dublin.

Part of the beer garden at The BelfryOur only other ‘complaint’ is that The Belfry tends to open later than some other pubs, so it’s not always handy for a quick weekend lunchtime pint. All the more incentive, really, to get there as they open to secure a comfy leather chair and a refreshing beverage…

Where: 37 Stoneybatter, Dublin, D07 X029
Access from the city centre: Buses 37, 39, 39A, 70, 83, 83A; Luas Red Line, 30ish minute walk
Food: Keep an eye on the socials for food trucks and pop-ups
Sport: More music-forward than sport-led
TVs: Well-hidden, if they are there
Music: More modern tunes; even the occasional rave for dogs
Family-friendliness: The hours are not particularly child-friendly, but everyone is welcome during the Stoneybatter Festival
Pub-crawl-ability: High – L. Mulligan. Grocer, The Glimmer Man, The Cobblestone, Hynes’ Bar, The Barber’s Bar & Bonobo are quite close; Fidelity isn’t too much further away
Local sites of note: The Lighthouse Cinema, Arbour Hill Cemetery, TUD Grangegorman
Haunted: Some of the décor does have the ‘haunted object’ look to it (in the best possible way) – perhaps a storytelling jumping-off point?
Other notes: Dogs are welcome, obviously, and the accessible toilet is important
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