In our effort to fill in the blanks when we see you getting lost in our search results, we’re aiming to visit some of the more common pubs on the tourist trail here and there, now that the bulk of the summer holidaymakers have gone home. Indeed, this week’s pub is one we’ve only ever previously visited in that capacity, years before moving to Dublin: The Long Hall.
Visiting again with more ‘local’ eyes does make you notice different things, but the fundamentals remain the same: the beautifully-maintained – and, in this case, likely genuinely world-famous – exterior of the pub is unmistakable, with its signature red-and-off-white stripes. Inside, it’s the kind of high Victorian décor that is more commonly a pastiche these days, but The Long Hall comes by it honestly: its last real renovation was in the 1880s. And while the deep reds and dark woods are common to many other local Dublin pubs of this vintage – a subject to which we’ll return – there are unique features here, including the much-loved clock, added in 1912.
For us, it ticks more boxes from a musical history perspective – the Phil Lynott and Bruce Springsteen bona fides are legit, though arguably, it’s more the interior (and the central location) that put The Long Hall firmly on the tourist trail. Thinking back to that first visit and why it came so highly recommended, a few memories resurfaced: 1) ‘the quality of the pint of Guinness;’ 2) the very-Victorian feel; and 3) the availability of other local beers – at the time, from McGargle’s (now better-known as Rye River).
Coming back to the first point as a local, there is no objectively ‘best’ pint of Guinness. Yes, there are places where it seems especially appropriate, like The Gravediggers (or, obviously, the Open Gate), but given that fresh Guinness and clean tap lines are essentially a given everywhere, that ‘best’ pint is purely down to atmosphere. (I said what I said). As a visitor, The Long Hall is certainly a fine spot for one – but it’s also a nice place to enjoy that Rye River pint. Fortunately, that’s still an option – too many other pubs have turfed out long-standing local independent options for their pricey Changing Times beer (looking at you, The Bridge 1859), and while the stout is not bad, there are still too many tap lines here taken up with some of the other Changing Times options – though again, happily there are still other choices available here.
But it’s the middle theme – the Victorian interior – that feels different with more-experienced eyes. If you’re only briefly in town and don’t have the time to explore, The Long Hall is a great spot to see this kind of pub. But once you’ve lived in Dublin for a while – or even just spent significant time here – you’ll know that there are other pubs that are just as ornate, or even more so, but without the tourist crowds (and prices). The Hut and Gaffney’s are just two examples, but especially for the cut-glass enthusiast, we’d suggest visiting those as well for comparison. Both also retain more of their Old Man Pub atmosphere which the tourist crowd dilutes somewhat at The Long Hall, though we’d very much emphasize that this isn’t a tourists-only joint like The Brazen Head, just that there are a lot of them, much of the time, and that’s fine.
So, it’s less of a case of ‘you can never go home again,’ but rather, once a place becomes your home, you find your own regular spots that are likely not those you visited on a quick trip. These days, when I’m in this part of town, Caribou is my usual go-to (after stopping off at Craft Central to re-stock the home fridge, of course), but there’s still plenty to enjoy at The Long Hall, whether you are a local or a newbie. The experience may be a different one with less-fresh eyes, but that’s no bad thing…
Where: 51 South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2, D02 DV74
Access from the city centre: 5ish minute walk or right in it, depending on your point of view
Food: N/A
Sport: N/A
TVs: N/A
Music: Quite a generic playlist
Family-friendliness: Children not allowed – a rare-for-Dublin hard pass for the kids
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Grogan’s, The Hairy Lemon, Caribou, Peter’s Pub, Sinnot’s Bar and Bar Rua are all within stumbling distance, with many more beyond
Local sites of note: George's Street Arcade, Gaiety Theatre, St Stephen's Green, Dublin Castle, Chester Beatty, Craft Central (IYKYK)
Haunted: Again, a truly lamentable lack of ghostlore for a pub of this age
Other notes: There’s air con! And main-floor toilets, but not always in the most agreeable condition
Socials: Facebook, Instagram