Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The 1884

Outside The 1884The 1884 is so called after the year that the GAA was founded, and it is very much a sporty pub. And while the GAA is the most-represented sporting genre on the walls and in the niches, there’s plenty of (association) football on the screens as well, especially on a weekend visit such as our recent one.

GAA decor in The 1884And like many pubs in the more suburban parts of Dublin, it’s absolutely enormous inside – indeed, somewhat barn-like. But it’s all very tidy, and there’s plenty of space to spread out. There are much-appreciated coat hooks under the bar, which really should be standard everywhere, but here we are. Only a few years ago, this pub was known as Grainger’s, and it had, well, a reputation, and although there are a few reminders of that era, it seemed generally ‘neighbourhood-pubby’ on our visit.

The beer garden at The 1884And while the beer selection is mostly the usual Guinness-and-Heineken-and-so-so-much-Rockshore (despite being listed as a stockist of Hope, brewed just a bit further north), there is also the lesser-spotted Kilkenny, which has been popping up here and there of late, and it’s a nice alternative. The real hidden gem of The 1884, though, is the enormous beer garden out back. Yes, there is a Pavement Pints option out front, right on the busy road, but if you head to the back, there is a wide range of covered and uncovered seating options.

Marino may not be much of a tourist destination (despite its legitimately interesting history from a city planning perspective, as well as its outstanding – and free – Casino Marino), but for the visitor looking for an almost-certainly tourist-free locals’ pub, The 1884 might be what they are looking for.

Where: 74 Malahide Road, Dublin 3, Marino, Dublin, IE D03 XW54
Access from the city centre: Buses 9, 13, 14, 15, 27A, 27B, 83, 123, 151
Food: Pub grub, wraps, crisps
Sport: All the sport, though mostly-GAA decor
TVs: Many screens all around the pub
Music: Live music at weekends
Family-friendliness: KEEP THEM SEATED
Pub-crawl-ability: Low – a longish walk to The Strand House and Gaffney’s, or toward The Ivy House and The Cat & Cage
Local sites of note: Casino Marino, Griffith Avenue, Bram Stoker’s birthplace, Fairview Park
Haunted: Perhaps only by talk of the previous pub…
Other notes: Main-floor toilets
Socials: Facebook, Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Bernard Shaw

Exterior of The Bernard Shaw

Despite walking past it multiple times a day most days, we’ve not had occasion to call in to The Bernard Shaw recently. This part of Dublin – the Phibsborough/Glasnevin border – is already well-served with great pubs like The Bald Eagle just across the canal, more food-forward spots like The Botanic around the corner, and world-renowned spots like The Gravediggers within a short walk. And so despite having an interesting selection of food vendors in its adjoining Eatyard, The Bernard Shaw is rarely top of mind as a spot for a quiet (or loud) drink or a family meal. True, they do have a drag brunch that we’ve heard is good fun, but the in-house food and drinks are always mentioned as not quite up to par for the neighbourhood, especially for the price.

And perhaps the fact that it doesn’t feel  much like, well, a pub is part of the issue; in its previous incarnation in Rathmines, it had a variety of spaces and programming options, but it still felt very much like a (rather scruffy) pub. However, that closed in 2019, and it moved to the current spot, a former Porterhouse location, not terribly long after. But much about the interior feels very much temporary: colourful cardboard dividers, upstairs and downstairs spaces closed off at some times and not others, and even the Eatyard itself is sometimes table service, sometimes walk-up, and it’s never entirely clear which is which or what is on offer when.

Inside one end of The Bernard ShawWhile it does have a theoretically reasonably interesting drinks lineup, like its fellow Bodytonic-managed bar, The Back Page, sometimes quite a few taps are not in working order – but again, other times, it’s all fine. But if all is present and correct, there are usually multiple Kinnegar choices, an Outcider tap and the more usual Guinness and Beamish, plus cocktails. Between the two locations, we tend to go to The Back Page more often: it has a more distinct identity as a spot for watching soccer and some more obscure sport, and the pizza is consistently pretty decent.

A beer on a table at The Bernard ShawIt is, of course, entirely possible that it’s simply aiming for a younger/cooler demographic, which is fair enough…though it does beg the question as to why there’s a mural of Peter Fonda on one side of the building…it’s not something that resonates with GenXers like us…are the younger Millennials into Easy Rider? We’ve been told it’s a ‘no’ from Gen Z: ‘…it’s no Taxi Driver.’

But we actually *do* quite enjoy some of the events that take place at The Bernard Shaw – there are handy record fairs, local community art markets and so on that are great to have in the neighbourhood; we may just go elsewhere for that ‘pub’ experience after. But with so many to choose from in this area, there’s absolutely something for everyone.

Where: Cross Guns Bridge, Dublin, D09 XW44
Access from the city centre: Buses 9, 40, 46A, 83, 140; Luas Green Line; 30ish minute walk
Food: Breakfast, lunch, dumplings, hot dogs
Sport: Big events shown: Rugby, football, etc
TVs: Scattered around
Music: The hipster music vibes are strong
Family-friendliness: Children around at the usual times
Pub-crawl-ability: High. Multiple options nearby: The Bald Eagle, The Brian Boru, Doyle's Corner, The Boh, The Hut and The Back Page in one direction, with The Botanic, The Gravediggers and The Tolka House in the other…
Local sites of note: Royal Canal Greenway, National Botanic Gardens, Glasnevin Cemetery, Mountjoy Prison, Dalymount Park
Haunted: Oddly, no ghosts obviously associated with the nearby Cross Guns Bridge
Other notes: Toilets are very much not accessible
Socials: Facebook, Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Long Hall

Exterior of The Long HallIn our effort to fill in the blanks when we see you getting lost in our search results, we’re aiming to visit some of the more common pubs on the tourist trail here and there, now that the bulk of the summer holidaymakers have gone home. Indeed, this week’s pub is one we’ve only ever previously visited in that capacity, years before moving to Dublin: The Long Hall.

The clock at The Long HallVisiting again with more ‘local’ eyes does make you notice different things, but the fundamentals remain the same: the beautifully-maintained – and, in this case, likely genuinely world-famous – exterior of the pub is unmistakable, with its signature red-and-off-white stripes. Inside, it’s the kind of high Victorian décor that is more commonly a pastiche these days, but The Long Hall comes by it honestly: its last real renovation was in the 1880s. And while the deep reds and dark woods are common to many other local Dublin pubs of this vintage – a subject to which we’ll return – there are unique features here, including the much-loved clock, added in 1912.

For us, it ticks more boxes from a musical history perspective – the Phil Lynott and Bruce Springsteen bona fides are legit, though arguably, it’s more the interior (and the central location) that put The Long Hall firmly on the tourist trail. Thinking back to that first visit and why it came so highly recommended, a few memories resurfaced: 1) ‘the quality of the pint of Guinness;’ 2) the very-Victorian feel; and 3) the availability of other local beers – at the time, from McGargle’s (now better-known as Rye River).

A pint of Rye River stout at The Long Hall

Coming back to the first point as a local, there is no objectively ‘best’ pint of Guinness. Yes, there are places where it seems especially appropriate, like The Gravediggers (or, obviously, the Open Gate), but given that fresh Guinness and clean tap lines are essentially a given everywhere, that ‘best’ pint is purely down to atmosphere.  (I said what I said). As a visitor, The Long Hall is certainly a fine spot for one – but it’s also a nice place to enjoy that Rye River pint. Fortunately, that’s still an option – too many other pubs have turfed out long-standing local independent options for their pricey Changing Times beer (looking at you, The Bridge 1859), and while the stout is not bad, there are still too many tap lines here taken up with some of the other Changing Times options – though again, happily there are still other choices available here.

But it’s the middle theme – the Victorian interior – that feels different with more-experienced eyes. If you’re only briefly in town and don’t have the time to explore, The Long Hall is a great spot to see this kind of pub. But once you’ve lived in Dublin for a while – or even just spent significant time here – you’ll know that there are other pubs that are just as ornate, or even more so, but without the tourist crowds (and prices). The Hut and Gaffney’s are just two examples, but especially for the cut-glass enthusiast, we’d suggest visiting those as well for comparison. Both also retain more of their Old Man Pub atmosphere which the tourist crowd dilutes somewhat at The Long Hall, though we’d very much emphasize that this isn’t a tourists-only joint like The Brazen Head, just that there are a lot of them, much of the time, and that’s fine.

So, it’s less of a case of ‘you can never go home again,’ but rather, once a place becomes your home, you find your own regular spots that are likely not those you visited on a quick trip. These days, when I’m in this part of town, Caribou is my usual go-to (after stopping off at Craft Central to re-stock the home fridge, of course), but there’s still plenty to enjoy at The Long Hall, whether you are a local or a newbie. The experience may be a different one with less-fresh eyes, but that’s no bad thing…

Where: 51 South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2, D02 DV74
Access from the city centre: 5ish minute walk or right in it, depending on your point of view
Food: N/A
Sport: N/A
TVs: N/A
Music: Quite a generic playlist
Family-friendliness: Children not allowed – a rare-for-Dublin hard pass for the kids
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Grogan’s, The Hairy Lemon, Caribou, Peter’s Pub, Sinnot’s Bar and Bar Rua are all within stumbling distance, with many more beyond
Local sites of note: George's Street Arcade, Gaiety Theatre, St Stephen's Green, Dublin Castle, Chester Beatty, Craft Central (IYKYK)
Haunted: Again, a truly lamentable lack of ghostlore for a pub of this age
Other notes: There’s air con! And main-floor toilets, but not always in the most agreeable condition
Socials: Facebook, Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Best Pubs for Cask Ale

A pint of cask Sitric Pale Ale by Hopkins & Hopkins at The PorterhouseYes, it's cheating a bit, since we just visited a new-to-us cask ale spot last week in Harty's Bar, but with our current work travel schedule (where we had some decent, if not amazing, cask ale in London after meetings), needs must!

And while Harty's Bar is one of the very few consistent non-Wetherspoons spots to get cask on any night of the week…well, we like to highlight the locally-owned options over the ‘Spoons choices. And so, you also have The Porterhouse Temple Bar – indeed, the only Porterhouse location still trading under that name, as its sister bar Tapped changed its spots some time ago – but the eagle-eyed among you will have noticed that Untappd (no relation) shows a cask option at Tapped. As you may have guessed, that single beer engine is the one at Harty's Bar. So, all in all, possibly a bit confusing for the visitor to Dublin, but honestly, this is very much par for the course for us locals.

But that's not all!

A pint of West Kerry Dark Mild at The Black SheepThe Black Sheep also has a most-weekends cask offering; keep an eye on their Instagram stories for the latest news there. Like Harty's Bar, it's often from Brehon Brewhouse, but there are also consistent visits from West Kerry Brewery and others. And there are frequently up to two cask choices at JR Mahon's, although they are rarely cheap. These are typically from Hopkins & Hopkins, who also brew their house beers from their spot in Smithfield.

And what about those Wetherspoons options?

Well, they often get Brehon Brewhouse cask ales as well, but more frequently, it’s your ‘standard ‘Spoons‘ real ale lineup, with the likes of Hobgoblin or Old Peculier. So while it’s not so different from what you might find in a pub in, say, Luton, well, at least the carpet is different.

And we still hold out hope that a cask option will, in the fullness of time, return to Underdog…we’ll all just need to keep bugging Paddy about it.

You have your orders…