Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Harty’s Bar

The streetscape at Harty's Bar, with Tapped to its rightCask ale, as we have often complained, is something of a rarity in Ireland. While there are a few more pubs with a regular cask offering up in Belfast, here in Dublin, it is simply not a regular feature in most pubs. Happily, though, a tipoff from a reader (cheers, Ciaran!) alerted us to a beer engine in regular use at Harty’s Bar. Naturally, we dropped everything to go investigate.

A pint of Brehon Blonde next to the hand pumpOne reason this pub had not been on our radar is that, appearances notwithstanding, it’s a fairly new establishment (but also not; bear with us) – until about 18 months ago, it was the Dingle Whiskey Bar. But like its neighbour, Tapped, with whom it shares a kitchen and menu, it has had a variety of identities, both before and throughout its tenure in the broader Porterhouse portfolio. Now described as ‘a country pub in the big smoke,’ its most recent refit leans into low light, dark woods and deep reds. It also seems smaller than during its whiskey days, but we’re not certain whether this is an accurate feeling or some kind of MR James ‘Number 13’ effect happening. In any event, there’s still plenty of Dingle Whiskey, also part of the Porterhouse group, as well as others.

A view into Harty's BarWhile it doesn’t have the selection of beers next door in Tapped, with its enormous bar, for a small space, it has a good lineup of some of the more standard Porterhouse beers – the Plain Porter, Yippy IPA and Red – as well as Trouble’s Ambush. There’s also Guinness, of course, and Beamish. But as you know, we were here for the cask option: this week, it was Brehon Brewhouse’s Blonde. And cask is a great way to serve this beer; it helps bring out a bit more of the biscuity malts that are a bit harder to notice when it’s poured from a can. The bartender shared that it’s more commonly the Stony Grey IPA on the hand pump, so it was a nice changeup.

And although you can still count the pubs in Dublin with working beer engines on one hand, it’s nice to know that we are at least back to having at least 1-2 cask options available on nearly any day of the week…if you know where to go.

And to that end, we’ve added a new category: cask.

Enjoy!

Where: 44 Nassau St, Dublin, D02 YY44
Access from the city centre: Right there
Food: Pub grub and beyond
Sport: Football, GAA…the usual big sports
TVs: Small screen near the bar
Music: No music on our visit; sport instead
Family-friendliness: Depends on the time of day, but there is food
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Tapped is next door, and McDaid’s, Bowes, O’Neill’s, Cassidy's, Mulligans, The Palace Bar, JR Mahon’s, The Oval Bar, Porterhouse Temple Bar, Kennedy's and many, many more are all within a very short stroll
Local sites of note: Trinity College, National Library of Ireland, National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology and The Dead Zoo), Leinster House, Irish Whiskey Museum, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM
Haunted: Perhaps the revamp was too recent for ghosts?
Other notes: There’s even working air con…more rare still than cask ale
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Jack O’Rourke’s

A quick sideways glance at Jack O'Rourke's from the outsideWe know that we tend to be biased toward pubs on the north side of the Liffey, but this week, we travel (relatively) far into south Dublin – all the way to Blackrock and . Once a quiet fishing village with a sideline in early modern highway robbery, Blackrock is now one of the bougier parts of suburban Dublin, as evidenced by it now being labelled Blackrock Village (with a capital ‘V’). But given its handy coastal location and useful DART station, it’s no surprise that this area, with its mix of historic homes and railway development, would have become spot for both day-trippers and locals.

The bar at Jack O'Rourke'sAnd while the town Village centre is not huge, it has an excellent off-license in the form of Blackrock Cellar, as well as some other independent stores, though there is not a vast array of pubs. Happily, though Jack O’Rourke’s serves many constituencies very well indeed. The pub is beautifully decorated in a broadly high Victorian style, with plenty of stained glass and deep colours. Indeed, records suggest that there has been an inn or pub here since at least the 18th century, which fits well with tales of highwaymen and shipwrecks that are tied to Blackrock. But Jack O’Rourke’s is very much a family pub, now in its fourth generation under the care of the O’Rourkes, and its design and décor fit well with the ‘1897’ date on the façade.

Pints of Hope and Wicklow Wolf at Jack O'Rourke'sThere are some lovely little snugs and the pub also has a bit of a nautical bent – the seafront is right here, after all – but it’s very welcoming to all; the standard Guinness (and Beamish!) is on offer, and there is good support for independent offerings like Hope and Wicklow Wolf, as well as Legacy Cider – craft ciders are especially hard to find across Ireland, so this is a nice bonus for fans of the apple.

All told, it’s a real gem of a pub: something of a combination of the best aspects of an Old Man Pub, paired with a welcoming atmosphere for well-behaved children, good food, local beer and excellent service. Well worth the trip on the Dart!

Where: 15 Main St, Blackrock, Dublin, A94 HN66
Access from the city centre: Buses 4, 7, 7A, DART
Food: Pub grub
Sport: Major events shown
TVs: Scattered around the pub
Music: Fairly MOR soundtrack in the background, never too loud for easy conversation
Family-friendliness: Children welcome
Pub-crawl-ability: Low – local spots like The Blackrock and The Wicked Wolf are nearby, but it’s a small selection without travel further afield
Local sites of note: Frascati Shopping Centre, Blackrock Park, Blackrock Historic Baths
Haunted: There were two massive shipwrecks just off the coast here…
Other notes: Rock Shandy was invented here – iconic!
Socials: N/A

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Cobblestone

Outside The CobblestoneOur featured Dublin pub this week is one that has been in the ‘much requested’ queue for some time. While we had to make it a flying visit, we finally got to The Cobblestone.

In many ways, it’s difficult to think of a more iconic Dublin pub. News of its possible closure or truncation for yet another identikit hotel caused protests, including a mock funeral, and the pub was given extensive press coverage during that period of threat, including a wonderful documentary. And although The Cobblestone today is best known as ‘the’ spot for trad music, it was not always the case.

A pint of Four Provinces Piper inside The CobblestoneUntil a little over a decade ago, both before and after Smithfield’s redevelopment from a market into a mix of housing and offices, this was an early house, open at 7 am for the market traders and, later, shift workers. And as the number of early houses has continued to dwindle – even Slattery’s doesn’t always open so early these days – The Cobblestone has evolved as well. Music slowly became an integral part of the offering, along with things like Irish language and dance classes, meetups and the like. From what had been a few sessions a week, live music is now a daily part of festivities, but it’s still a very casual-yet-regular one most of the time.

It’s less a case of booking for a gig and more one of wandering into see who’s playing, and it’s one of the few options for the tourist who only has a few hours and wants to get in a bit of daytime trad at the weekend, as there’s nearly always something on. But unlike some pubs, this is by no means just a tourist hotspot – it’s a much-loved part of the community.

The crowd at The Cobblestone, early on a weekend afternoonAnd while it can be a bit rough around the edges, likely needing a few coats of paint and some repairs here and there (not to mention having slightly-infamous toilets), that’s part of the charm. Yes, it would be nice if some of the derelict buildings surrounding The Cobblestone were used for, say, housing, but it really does feel like a landmark as-is.

It’s not the pub you’d go to for food or for a long chat over a pint (though there is, of course, plenty of Guinness, plus some representation from Four Provinces) – there’s music to be heard here, albeit not in the coach-tour-with Irish-dancing-and-a-meal sense – but for trad and a true mix of locals and mostly-respectful tourists, it’s a go-to.

Where: 77 King St N, Smithfield, Dublin, D07 TP22
Access from the city centre: Buses 37, 39, 39A, 70, 83, 83A, Red Line Luas, Green Line Luas, 30ish minute walk
Food: None
Sport: No
TVs: Not here
Music: This is your spot for trad (though see also Piper’s Corner)
Family-friendliness: Kids are welcome earlier in the evenings to listen to music, if that’s their jam; it will nearly always be crowded
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Bonobo is a short walk, with, The Belfry, The Glimmer ManThe Barber’s Bar, Walsh’s, Hynes’ Bar and L Mulligan, Grocer all in Stoneybatter – with another 10 minutes in the other direction to Underdog or down Capel Street
Local sites of note: Lighthouse Cinema, Collins Barracks, Four Courts, St Michan’s Church
Haunted: Does ‘haunting’ music count?
Other notes: The ‘could be tidier’ can sometimes apply to taplines, too – you may want to check a friend’s pint first
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Best Pubs for Kids

Mac & cheese and a pint at Dudley'sIrish pubs are, broadly speaking, welcoming to all ages during the day and early evening – or, at least, they are more often than not, compared to pubs and pub-adjacent spaces in the UK or US (the never-ending ‘kids in taprooms’ debate there notwithstanding). Dublin has a wealth of pubs that are especially good at catering to families, whether it’s for a meal or just a relaxing pint for the adults and a Coke or Club Orange for the kids.

But it can be a bit confusing for the tourist; many especially family-welcoming spots may also have a ‘strictly over 21s’ sign outside (despite the legal drinking age being 18), which might seem at odds with the high chairs and kids’ meals on offer. In these instances, it’s not *actual children* with their parents who aren’t getting in. Rather, it’s all about The Youths – they can come back in unaccompanied once they’ve developed their frontal cortexes a bit more. Most, though not all, of these pubs tend to operate via a table service model, but you can also just go up to the bar as well.

So, if you’re looking for well-tested spots for the whole family, fear not – we’ve done years of research for you. Whether it’s a special occasion meal or more of a standard chicken-goujons-and-chips evening out, there are pubs that run the full spectrum. Let’s begin.

Light and wall paneling at JR Mahon'sIn the city centre, it might be useful to navigate by proximity to a few tourist attractions. If Temple Bar is on your list, but this is a family trip and not a stag or hen do, The Porterhouse gets you close to the action, albeit without as much messiness – there may even be a daytime trad session. It’s also a handy spot before or after a Vintage Tea Trips excursion, as the buses typically stop just outside. If, for some reason, you have children who desperately wanted to visit the NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, JR Mahon’s is a useful spot, and it’s a short stroll from there to Trinity College or the National Gallery. Continuing in that direction – and toward the National Museum of Ireland (the archaeology one, with the bog bodies, of course), Doheny and Nesbitt and Kennedy’s are used to catering to families.

Further south – and closer to the Aviva, if you’re here for a match – The Old Spot is one of our favourite ‘special occasion’ pubs, and children are warmly welcomed. The Merry Cobbler is also a family-friendly location, and going all the way out to Dundrum on the Luas you’ll find The Brickyard, which is ideal with kids of all ages – but let’s head back toward the centre of town.

Dublinia is a great museum for kids, and there are quite a few pubs in this part of Dublin that are perfect after an afternoon of sightseeing-with-the-small-folk (and you may need to sit down for a while if they’ve also been marched through the Guinness Storehouse). The Christchurch Inn is one of many spots in The Liberties that work well, but there is also Molly’s Bar – we’ll come back to how handy Galway Bay pubs are for families in a moment – and Dudley’s, which also has a mac & cheese that is picky-kid tested and approved. If Kilmainham Gaol is on your itinerary, the nearby Old Royal Oak does a mean toastie, and you could take various buses from here to The Circular or Rascals – also on our S-tier list.

Outside Hynes' BarGoing north of the river, Nancy Hands is good for refreshing and dining after a trip to Dublin Zoo, and Stoneybatter is full of great pubs for all. Hynes’ Bar and The Barber’s Bar both have tasty Asian street food options that kids love, if you’ve exhausted the usual burger-or-goujons choices, and L. Mulligan. Grocer is also on our ‘special night out’ list for its fantastic food and warm welcome. If you’re looking for something before or after a film at The Lighthouse or a trip to Collins Barracks, Bonobo’s pizza works, and there are toasties at The King’s Inn – the little snugs are also cosy and can help keep smaller folk contained.

There are restaurants and pubs of all sorts on Capel Street, but we’ll highlight another Galway Bay pub here with The Black Sheep. All Galway Bay pubs have a standard kids’ menu – adding bacon to the mac & cheese is a nice touch – but The Black Sheep is especially nice as they also have board games, and are very close to a number of game and comic shops.

Holidays at The Cat & Cage - always great for all the familyIf you’ve brought the family to Croke Park for a game, or perhaps just the excellent museum and tour, you are spoiled for choice in Drumcondra and Phibsborough, presuming you can nudge everyone up or down the easy canal walk, or via the playground in Griffith Park. The Cat & Cage has another well-tested children’s menu, and the mac & cheese suppli are big hits. Fagan’s has the carvery, if that’s your thing, and The Botanic even has weekend brunch with slatherings of Nutella nowadays. The Bald Eagle is a favourite – kids love the action-figure décor as well as the food – and The Back Page’s arcade section is in regular circulation for all-ages parties.

To finish heading back toward the city centre, Urban Brewing is practically on top of EPIC and the Jeanie Johnston, and in case you’re doing some shopping near O’Connell Street, The Morris Bar has a great kids’ pizza as well as excellent grown-up versions, and TP Smith’s is an oasis of calm after hitting The Jervis Centre.

In summary, there’s no shortage of good pubs to go to, even with the kids in tow, but we do have some favourites from the list above. For great pizza, we love Rascals and The Morris Bar. For a chill weekend meal, it’s over to The Cat & Cage or The Bald Eagle, and for cask ale and food after comic book shopping, it’s The Black Sheep. Special occasions are all about L. Mulligan. Grocer or The Old Spot, and it’s worth keeping an eye on the seasonal events at Brickyard for all-ages menu fun (and great beer).

Looking for more Best Pubs For… ideas? WE GOT YOU.