Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Guinness Open Gate Brewery

A beer, pretzel and mac & cheese balls at the Open Gate Brewery

While it’s less of a ‘pub,’ the Guinness Open Gate Brewery re-opened this summer, and it’s a nice alternative for out-of-town visitors to Dublin who don’t want to pay for do the full Guinness Storehouse ‘brand experience,’ but still want to say they’ve been to the ‘Home of Guinness.’ But it does have a few attractions for locals, too – and it’s a very central spot to kick off a Liberties pub crawl, if that’s your inclination, but the real drawl for me is less the beer, which we’ll come on to in a moment, and more the fantastic nibbles: this is one of the only places in town you can consistently get a pretzel with a beer, and although it’s not an inexpensive one, it’s large, and well worth seeking out.

Regular readers will know I have a Grand Unified Theory about how pubs around the world should offer warm, soft pretzels with beer cheese as a snack, and it’s something we simply don’t have here in Ireland, beyond one-off Oktoberfest events – except at the Open Gate. The other menu items are equally good, and if you’re wondering how a cookie might be worth €10, if you pair it with the Dublin Porter, it’s an absolute treat – and still cheaper than a pint of Guinness in some spots in Temple Bar. The lesson here is that you may have come to try a few beers, but leave room for the food, too.

Punters at the Open GateFor anyone used to a reasonably trendy brewery taproom, the recent glow-up at the Open Gate hits all the marks – sleek-looking taps, photography-friendly spaces and industrial chic, though you do now get a better view of the brewing operations behind the glass wall. That said, this isn’t the sort of spot you’ll find 30 rotating taps; it’s still your core Guinness range, with a few more experimental options added on, though there are also legacy brands like Macardles in bottles, and it’s one of the handful of places you can consistently get Guinness Foreign Extra Stout. You won’t be putting a picture of your face in your pint, for an additional fee, as you can at the Storehouse, but that’s no great loss.

The pleasing 'railway' sign at the Open Gate BreweryPerhaps my favourite thing about the Open Gate, however, is less about the beer and pretzels – though I love the Dublin Porter, and would happily drink it much more frequently were it available elsewhere around town – it’s the sign. Rather than the more common neon chalk or paint-pen listing of what’s on tap, there’s an old-school, railway station-style flipboard that resets periodically, and it is incredibly satisfying to watch and listen to. And despite being someone who once spent far too long each week in Philadelphia’s 30th Street Station, I miss the old flipboard – it’s lovely to see that kind of retro tech employed in an engaging way (even if the taps don’t change quite as frequently as trains might be expected to go).

So, while it may be just as much on the tourist trail as its neighbour, the Guinness Storehouse, it’s a more chilled-out experience than trying to grab a pint in the Gravity Bar…and the selection is usually much more interesting.

And again, the pretzels are the real deal – if you’re a local and you ‘have to’ take a friend who is visiting Dublin for the first time, go to the Open Gate hungry – take one for the team!

Where: 53 James St, St. James’s Gate, Dublin 8
Access from the city centre: Buses 13, 27, 49, 54A, 77A, 123, 150, 151, G1, G2, 15-ish minute walk
Food: Small plates, including PRETZELS
Sport: Not here
TVs: No
Music: Fairly generic playlist, but likely depends on the night
Family-friendliness: No under-18s
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Arthur’s is steps away, with Dudley’s, Love Tempo, The Thomas House, The Christchurch Inn, Tailors Hall, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle and The Beer Temple/The Oak all within a short walk; The Brazen Head is also a bit further away
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen's Church
Haunted: Something something big brand capitalism, maybe? The only ‘vibes’ are from Instagram feature walls, so perhaps spooky if that’s not your thing
Other notes: The beer garden is a great spot on a sunny day (but also well-covered – this is Ireland, after all)
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Swift

Swift sign under My Goodness / My GuinnessWe’re still just warming up for all things Autumnal, so while we wait for Spooky Season to properly kick off, we’re visiting a very ‘normal’ pub this week – we’re back in The Liberties to stop in for a pint at Swift.

But wait, I hear you ask – wasn’t this The Magnet a hot second ago? Well…yes. And it still has a very pleasant magnet-themed mosaic at the front door. But wait, you ask again – before that, wasn’t it Agnes Browne’s as recently as 2022? Uh…also yes. Hang on, you persist – wasn’t this the site of the Wig & Pen, and not so long ago? Correct again. And before that another pub, and another pub, ad infinitum?

The still-here magnet mosaic at the door

Well, perhaps not quite *that* long, but there has been a pub or pub-adjacent business of some description here for quite some time. The building now occupied by Swift isn’t as old as its unassuming next door neighbour, which may be Dublin’s oldest extant domestic dwelling, dating to the 17th century (you can, as always, blame the Wide Streets Commission for the absence of much of medieval Dublin – though there are bits around if you know where to look), but it would seem to have been here in some form since the mid-18th century, despite its 19th century appearance. And, speaking of that 19th century façade: ‘The current shopfront is out of character with the dignity of the building and the historic setting of the church opposite’ suggested the authors of the Thomas Street ACA Inventory of Buildings back in 2009, when this was the rather more downmarket ‘Booze 2 Go’ – likely not a sentiment we would want to argue with.

In that sense, the parade of pub names since that time is no bad thing, but what do we think of the current incarnation?

A glass of Scraggy Bay at SwiftAs it happens, there are a lot of positives: the interior is a tidy version of ‘traditional Irish pub,’ with dark colours – lots of deep greens and reds – and a variety of snug-like seating options. Independent beer is represented by Kinnegar’s Scraggy Bay, and there were a variety of non-alcoholic and cocktail options on offer as well. There is Guinness, of course, and a frankly great €10 pint-and-toastie deal – ‘Not The Brazen Head‘ notes the chalkboard proclaiming the deal.

The busy bar at SwiftNow, my personal favourite Jonathan Swift-themed pub is, oddly enough, The Dean Swift in London – in my defence, it has wonderful food and some great cask options, which are a rarity around these parts – but Dublin’s Swift is a pleasant spot for a pint, too – and rather closer to the clergyman-satirist’s more frequent stomping grounds and burial place.

The Liberties is an excellent spot for a pub crawl, and Swift makes a fine addition to the area – continuing a centuries-long tradition.

Where: 131 Thomas St, The Liberties, Dublin, D08 P8H3
Access from the city centre: Buses 13, 27, 49, 54A, 77A, 123, 150, 151, G1, G2, 15-ish minute walk
Food: Toasties
Sport: Football & the usual big sporting events
TVs: Big screen in the main bar
Music: Ska – at least on my visit, they had a tremendous ska playlist – and live music (trad & other genres) some evenings
Family-friendliness: Not a great spot for the littles
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Dudley’s is across the street, with Arthur’s Love Tempo, Guinness Open Gate Brewery, The Thomas House, The Christchurch Inn, Tailors Hall, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle and The Beer Temple/The Oak are all within a short walk; The Brazen Head is also a bit further away
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen's Church
Haunted: No obvious stories, but this has been a busy commercial street since at least medieval times…maybe there’s a spook in the cellar!
Other notes: The local archaeology report is a fascinating read over a pint – imagine what’s under your feet
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Bleeding Horse

Exterior of The Bleeding Horse: flags, Carlsberg branding and a portrait of a horse

We are not *quite* into Spooky Season yet – indeed, it has been so unseasonably hot that I’ve had to create a Beer Garden tag – but my thoughts have nevertheless turned toward the creepier side of things when it comes to pubs. And although I cannot find any ghost stories linked to The Bleeding Horse, it does come with a spooky-adjacent literary history, and so, to Camden Street.

A quote from James Joyce, etched in stoneThe Bleeding Horse gets the usual James Joyce namecheck in Ulysses, complete with a stone at the door to remind the visitor, but I’m personally more interested in the Sheridan Le Fanu mention. While MR James nerds like me get excited about Le Fanu’s role in shaping the modern ghost story, his mention of The Bleeding Horse is in one of his earlier works,
The Cock and Anchor (no snickering at the back). Set in 1710, the pub is described in the book as ‘…a small, old-fashioned building, something between an ale-house and an inn.’ And while this is largely literary license, that part does have a ring of authenticity.

A pint of Whiplash Rollover on a table at The Bleeding HorseA 17th century ale-house would have been somewhat akin to our modern ‘wet pub’ (yes, it’s a terrible phrase), with drink on offer, but little else, while an inn would have offered accommodation as well as refreshment. And although ‘public houses’ began to be licensed in both Ireland and Britain in the late 17th century, it’s still all a bit scattershot, and there are gradations and edge cases all over. And while a 1649 date for the pub’s foundation often pops up, one wonders if this has more to do with its maybe-possibly association with the Battle of Rathmines, which might have given The Bleeding Horse its name (or, equally, may not have – the story of a bloody, battle-frightened horse is a bit too Just So). It would seem to be spectacularly bad luck to build and open a new business just as the country is about to be laid waste to by Cromwell and his troops, but then, stranger things have happened. That said, if it was a coaching inn, it was likely a relatively substantial establishment, and one that stretched at least a bit further back. In short, a little proper archival digging would be quite an interesting exercise!

A table at The Bleeding Horse

But with that said, the pub we see today – and a large, somewhat barn-like building it is – only dates from 1871 (though I would be willing to wager the cellars have some older bits and bobs), when it was redesigned by RJ Stirling, early in his architectural career; he would later go on to serve as a key architect for Trinity College. That ye-olde-feeling interior, on the other hand, is even more recent – it’s from a renovation in the 1990s. Again, though, this is no bad thing, as the feeling of the place does ‘work, and the maze-like interior as you wind up the stairs offers a variety of nooks and crannies to settle into. And while there are the usual Carlsberg (whose branding is currently covering most of the exterior) and Guinness taps (and also Murphy’s, for those seeking an alternative stout), there are also local independent options with a few Whiplash choices, too.

Perhaps, though, the spookiest thing about The Bleeding Horse is its more recent literary history: The Bleeding Horse and Other Ghost Stories by Brian J. Showers (he of local publisher Swan River Press) is a cracking read, and one I’d highly recommend for any visitor to the area. Le Fanu may be long dead, but his tradition remains alive; no better place to check it out than at a pub whose name he would have recognized.

Where: 24-25 Camden Street Upper, Saint Kevin’s, Dublin 2, D02 NP22
Access from the city centre: Buses 9, 14, 15, 16, 27, 56A, 65B, 77A, 83, 140, 151, 15-ish minute walk
Food: Elevated pub grub with some more interesting offerings than many spots
Sport: Football, rugby, horse racing, F1, golf…really, all the sports
TVs: All over the place
Music: Live music and comedy on weekends and some evenings; check the socials
Family-friendliness: More of a grownup vibe, and can be very crowded on big sporting event days
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Devitt's, Teach Tábhairne Ag Teach, The Camden, Ryan's of Camden Street…and the local ‘Spoon's, Keavan's Port. Or, carry on to Dame Street for The Beer Temple and The Oak
Local sites of note: Whelan's, Iveagh Gardens, St Stephen's Green, National Concert Hall, Marsh's Library, St Patrick's Cathedral
Haunted: Only in the most literary sense, though I admit I’m not the biggest fan of the recent restoration of the horse, which does creep me out
Other notes: Handy for a bookish pint after picking something up at The Last Bookshop
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Arthur’s Pub

Across the street from Arthur's PubArthur’s Pub – or, if you prefer, Arthur’s Blues and Jazz Club – sits on a prominent corner in the Liberties, and while it presents itself as ‘the nearest pub on the route to the Guinness Storehouse‘ and has name-checked Arthur Guinness, it has much more going for it than simply a handy location near one of Dublin’s most-visited landmarks. Although renovated as recently as 2022, the updates manage to feel very much bedded-in, yet with all the modern comforts.

And while there are a fair few spots nearby in The Liberties that cater to my craft beer preferences, Arthur’s does a great job of showcasing a range of independent Irish breweries, in addition to that extremely-fresh Guinness (even if it’s actually brewed a little bit further along than the Storehouse); there’s usually a good selection from Wicklow Wolf, Trouble, O’Hara’s, Rascals and more. In many ways, this is what I would expect for a pub that’s very much on the tourist trail – yes, there’s your expected Guinness, but you are also showing off other local producers, through both food and drink, and giving visitors a much fuller picture of what’s available here in Ireland. Oddly, this rarely happens, as many pubs that cater primarily to tourists carry only macro beers – so it’s great to see it. Arguably, the music venue upstairs does something similar – there’s a good mix of trad along with the jazz and blues in the name, which can be harder to find elsewhere in town.

The fireplace at Arthur's PubBut I love having an excuse to go to Arthur’s during the Libertine Market Crawl, a monthly craft and art market spread across three other neighbouring pubs, most recently Lucky’s, Dudley’s and Love Tempo. There’s always an eclectic but well-curated mix on offer, and Arthur’s seems to draw some of vendors on the spookier end of things, so yes, I am being catered to. And while the pub is by no means ancient by European standards – it was built c. 1850, and has been a pub since the 1860s (though not, back then, under its present Guinness-themed branding, of course) – its proximity to St Catherine’s Church, site of the execution of Robert Emmet in 1803, gives it a bit of a haunting air, enhanced by the large stone fireplace, covered in drippy candle wax at the far end of the pub, complete with a death mask of Emmet on the wall above.

For the tourist who may feel slightly discombobulated by a trip to the ultra-modern (and pricey) Gravity Bar at the Guinness Storehouse, just steps away, Arthur’s can help re-set the system; it feels like a very ‘authentic’ pub, albeit one with a more-interesting-than-usual set of offerings – something for everyone in the best way.

Where: 28 Thomas St, The Liberties, Dublin, D08 VF83
Access from the city centre: Buses 13, 27, 49, 54A, 77A, 123, 150, 151, G1, G2, 15-ish minute walk
Food: Elevated pub grub and small plates
Sport: Plenty of sporting options elsewhere in the neighbourhood
TVs: Not here
Music: Trad, jazz and general indie during the day, live jazz and blues upstairs
Family-friendliness: Plenty of kids about for lunch on weekend afternoons
Pub-crawl-ability: High – Dudley's is across the street, with Love Tempo, Guinness Open Gate Brewery, The Thomas House, Swift, The Christchurch Inn, Tailors Hall, The Lord Edward, The Bull & Castle and The Beer Temple/The Oak are all within a short walk; The Brazen Head is also a bit further away
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Vicar Street, Olympia Theatre, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, St Audoen’s Church
Haunted: They lean *all the way in* with the Emmet death mask, but alas, he’s said to haunt The Brazen Head instead…
Other notes: Great vendors on the Libertine Market Crawl, always a kid- and dog-friendly event
Socials: Instagram, Facebook, YouTube

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Teach Tábhairne Ag Teacht

A pint of Trouble in a much darker pub

Once upon a time – back in the early 2010sAgainst the Grain was one of the few places in Dublin you could consistently get an independent beer. Indeed, it was one of the handful of pubs recommended to me before my first visit in 2016, and along with its then-portfolio-mate, The Black Sheep, I found it rather delightful. However, as previously mentioned, Galway Bay has continued to jettison pubs, notably The Beer Market (now The Christchurch Inn), BRÚ House (now The Strand House) and Gasworks (now The Water Bank), among others, and, alas, Against the Grain is also in this number.

The bar areaNow rebranded Teach Tábhairne Ag Teacht (so, ‘pub’ or ‘pub coming,’ perhaps? My Irish is all second-hand, based on my smaller child’s school assignments), the changes are less cosmetic and more fundamental to the feel of the place. In its former guise, the pub had been renovated under two years ago, and it considerably brightening things up, giving it a bit of glamour, while still feeling quite ‘pubby.’ Now, though, it just feels dark, as if some of the still-newish improvements have been scuffed or sullied up a bit. The real problem, however, is what’s happened to the beer. While obviously no longer a Galway Bay pub, it’s gone from having an always-interesting selection of house and guest beers to a tiny handful of craft taps. On the plus side, the Ambush was in good shape, but I need to be in the mood for The White Hag’s Púca – a fruited sour, for the uninitiated – and only one other (rotating?) tap, at the moment from Galway Hooker. For our purposes here, I’m not counting the Beavertown Neck Oil as any kind of upgrade to the lineup, the rest of which is all macro blandness of the sort that can be found anywhere along Camden Street. Indeed, it seems likely there might be a more fully-featured beer lineup at the ‘Spoons a short walk away, but given the minor scuffle that was taking place outside, I gave that a miss.

The bar in former timesWell, that wasn’t the only reason, though it was a bit too on brand for that…but I digress.

It’s not all doom and gloom, though – there’s a very nice smash burger, and the one truly bright spot is with the staff, clearly holdovers from the old days. They were thoroughly welcoming and professional, and even produced a water with lemon and ice without being asked; truly a rarity in much of Dublin, and one especially welcome on a warmish day. This used to be a norm in the Against the Grain days, and I have fond memories of a Galway Bay Running Club meetup here that kept the post-run water and beer flowing for a long afternoon session that kept going into the evening.

Burger at the pubWhile not (as far as I am aware) directly related to Galway Bay Brewing, there is a short-term-but-still around nod toward Galway and a ‘temporary’ rebranding as Gaillimh Abú (essentially, ‘up Galway!’) for the All-Ireland football and camogie finals (including discounts for Galway supporters in their jerseys – a few jerseys on the wall being the main evidence of this inside), but as someone who lives near Croke Park and sees all the GAA fans stream past my house on their way into the stadium*, trekking to and from this part of town before a game can be a non-trivial task. Without getting into the nuances of which pubs are ‘homes’ to which county supporters – a much bigger topic – it’s fair to say a lot of the pre-gaming happens closer to the action – I tend to simply avoid my local pubs on game days because of the crowds.

At the 'old' Against the Grain, less than 2 years agoCrowds, though, were noticeably absent on my visit to Teach Tábhairne, while other spots on the same street had a lively presence. On one hand, it gave more opportunity to chat to the wonderful staff. On the other, however, this is no longer a pub to settle in to try a variety of different things. It’s more of a spot to get a quick bit to eat and a glass or a pint on the way somewhere else, instead of a destination in its own right.

Sic transit gloria mundi

*and let’s not even get into what kind of hot mess it’s going to be for Oasis, but if someone wants to pay to sleep in my front garden, let’s talk rates…

Where: 11 Wexford St, Dublin, D02 HY84
Access from the city centre: Buses 9, 14, 15, 16, 27, 56A, 65B, 77A, 83, 140, 151, 15-ish minute walk
Food: Burgers
Sport: Emphasis on sport with a Galway bent: Galway Races, GAA
TVs: TVs in the bar, but not always on
Music: General indie
Family-friendliness: The reliable Galway Bay children’s menu is no more
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Bleeding Horse, Devitt’s, The Camden, Ryan’s of Camden Street..and the above-mentioned Wetherspoon’s, Keavan’s Port. Or, carry on to Dame Street for The Beer Temple and The Oak
Local sites of note: Whelan’s, Iveagh Gardens, St Stephen’s Green, National Concert Hall, Marsh’s Library, St Patrick’s Cathedral
Haunted: Perhaps by memories of past times…
Other notes: Craft beer taps in Dublin seem to be shrinking, not growing. It’s a worry…
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Mooney’s of Abbey Street

Exterior of Mooney's of Abbey Street: red exterior with cream and red signageI recently read Back to the Local, Maurice Gorham’s recently-republished guide to London pubs, initially written just after the Second World War. While there is much in the book that is fascinating to the beer history nerd, from drinks terminology to changing pub names and elegies for those lost in the Blitz, Gorham’s chronicling of the various ‘Irish houses’ was, naturally, of special interest.

An Irish journalist and, later, broadcaster with the BBC, Gorham had been educated in the UK and lived in London until the late 1940s, when he returned to Dublin and served as the Director of RTÉ Radio, though it’s clear from his writing that he had something of an avocation for capturing pubs in print. Throughout Back to the Local, he mentions his favourite Mooney’s establishments in London, and having recently spent a while staring at Mooney’s of Abbey Street while waiting for the Luas to appear, I was keen to know more about Mooney’s pubs here in Dublin, as well as their once-thriving London counterparts.

A booth/snug inside Mooney'sWithout diving into a full history of JG Mooney and Company, we’ll briefly note that the business was formed in 1888 as a wine and spirits merchant, and they owned a string of pubs in Dublin and London, including some more recognizable under their current names, such as The Boh and Bruxelles. While the OG Mooney organization dissolved in 2022, the name is back on Mooney’s of Abbey Street so, yes, we are finally getting to this week’s pub.

While the historic Mooney’s of Abbey Street was at 1 Abbey Street (indeed, the signage is still visible on the façade), we’re now just a few doors down at 4 Abbey Street, and there’s been a very recent glow-up to the interior. We’re leaning in to ‘traditional pub’ here, but it’s well-executed, with dark wood, deep colours and a bit of slightly-spurious history here and there, but it’s all quite pleasant, with a number of snugs and booths.

The stained glass toward the back remains from its previous incarnation as Madigan’s, with the name-change happening in 2020. There is also the welcome sight of not just one, but two Rye River taps, so there are options for those seeking something beyond the Diageo or Heineken standard-issue pints (plus the lesser-spotted Kilkenny and Harp). On my visit, there was quite a lot of tourist foot traffic – it does seem there is almost always a coach parked outside, either taking on or disgorging a sizable group – but it was never overwhelming, and the small afternoon crowd was a good mix of locals and visitors of all ages and descriptions.

A sign and mirror inside Mooney'sEven if it’s not, strictly speaking, the same Mooney’s that once had a relatively-expansive portfolio of pubs around the city (or, more accurately, cities), it’s no bad thing to see a nod to a historic name in a newer establishment. The current décor may seem a little bit staged as it’s just been tidied up, but, given time, it should gain a bit more of a patina; it does come by it honestly. Indeed, it’s a fine addition to this part of Abbey Street which can otherwise veer somewhat wildly between very staid and corporate and too run down for its own good – a lively, welcoming pub offers a useful anchor.

And if you have not picked up a copy of Back to the Local, well – you should get on that, too…

Where: 4 Abbey Street Lower, North City, Dublin, D01 V0Y3
Access from the city centre: Luas Green Line, Buses 9, 13, 14, 83, 122, 123, 8-ish minute walk
Food: New menu as of September ’24, including breakfast & pub grub
Sport:
Various sporting options shown
TVs: New TVs in the main bar
Music: Typically a more MOR sound…but improved with some New Order
Family-friendliness: Plenty of children’s food options
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Flowing Tide, The Palace Bar, Piper's Corner, Bowes, JR Mahon’s, Mulligan's and The Confession Box; also not too far from The Silver Penny if you need a ‘Spoons
Local sites of note: Abbey Theatre, Gate Theatre, The Spire, NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM, GPO, Ha'Penny Bridge, Trinity College
Haunted: Thankfully, no longer haunted by the previous furniture
Other notes: Much-improved bathrooms, too
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: The Galway Hooker

The Galway Hooker exterior - the right-hand side of Heuston StationDublin does not, on the whole, have the kind of grand railway station pubs and bars that you might find in the UK or Germany, but it seems we are not alone in this. Indeed, most Dublin train stations are quick commuter stops – though a few of those do have some good local pubs – but of the two real inter-city stations, Connolly and Heuston, there is no comparison when it comes to pubs – Heuston is winning here. While there is a theoretical pub in Connolly, I don’t think I’ve ever been in when it has actually been open, though I am reliably informed by others that this is a ‘me’ problem and that it has been open for them. Heuston, however, has The Galway Hooker inside the station, and it has the distinction of being an early house as well. If you have an early-ish train and require a 7 am pint (or, for Sundays, 9 am), I’ll presume you’re not in the station for a work trip, but if you’re on holiday, have at it.

Station concourse entrance to The Galway HookerIt’s a bit of a funny spot, The Galway Hooker; the patio outside overlooks the Luas tracks, giving it more of a ‘commuter’ vs ‘real trip’ vibe, but it does afford a nice view of Heuston’s exterior, which is really rather nice by Irish train station standards; it can be a bit too easy to overlook when you’re in a hurry to catch a train. Inside, though, there are multiple options for people-watching, though it’s not as easy as it might be for trainspotting. The entrance from the station concourse only suggests a somewhat-unpromising buffet/carvery experience, but if you press on into the pub interior, a more impressive spectacle awaits.

The decorative Galway hooker above the bar at The Galway HookerThe colour scheme is dictated by the red-brown (Burnt Sienna?) sails of the model namesake boat variety above the bar. This particular example is also decorated with fairly lights, and the shade continues on the walls and up the stairs, complemented by dark-stained wood. All told, it’s a much warmer look and feel than either the patio (as expected) or the more takeaway-feeling entrance – in short, it has a much ‘pubbier’ feel about it. There are the usual seats at the bar, as well as tables throughout the space, and it’s quite a large one. There are the usual suspects on tap – Guinness, of course – but also Galway Hooker (the beer this time, not the boat – they’ve recently embarked on a series of seasonal cans) and Hope for the craft fans.

So, while Dublin may not have a great variety of railway pubs, there are certainly plenty of pubs near stations to make up for it – but it’s well worth stopping in to The Galway Hooker for a pint if you’re heading away for a long weekend.

Where: Heuston Station, St John’s Rd W, Saint James, Dublin 8
Access from the city centre: Luas Red Line, Buses 26, 52, 69, 123, 145, C1/C2/C3, 30-ish minute walk
Food: Usual pub grub
Sport: Biggest event of the day will be on
TVs: Above the bar
Music: Typically a more MOR sound
Family-friendliness: There are kids’ options, given the location
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium – The trio of Nancy Hands, Ryan’s of Parkgate Street and P. Duggan’s are just across the river, Guinness Storehouse and the Open Gate a short walk down the road, Fidelity a bit further along on the other side of the Liffey again…
Local sites of note: Guinness Storehouse, Kilmainhaim Hospital, IMMA, Dr Steeven’s Hospital, Phoenix Park, St James’s Hospital
Haunted: Surely, all good train stations have a ghost story or two…
Other notes: Don’t expect normal pub hours for opening or closing – they close by 7 pm
Socials: Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Mema’s

The bar at Mema's

In our discussion of Slattery’s last week, we mentioned that in-use early house licenses are becoming ever-more-rare, and this week’s pub is one that held such a license in its previous incarnation as The Metro, but nowadays, it’s business-hours-as-usual at Mema’s on Parnell Street. But that may be one of the few ‘as usual’ elements of this comfortable bar – few other Dublin pubs have a decorated pizza oven or cocktail towers, though fear not, Guinness enthusiasts – you’re well looked-after, too.

A pint of Rye River at Mema'sAnd yet, while some of those elements may not be what tourists envision when they think ‘Irish pub,’ Mema’s feels very much part of the fabric of the neighbourhood. One of the reasons I especially enjoy stopping in – beyond the comfortable seating options – is their support for independent Irish beer. There is always Ambush on from Trouble, and usually something from Rye River as well, plus a few other wild cards. The same can be said for their championing smaller Irish distillers, and some of the cocktails are a great way to showcase those producers (perhaps not, it must be said, in the ‘tower’ format, but in your standard-sized cocktail, absolutely).

The beer garden at Mema'sThere’s also what sometimes feels like a secret beer garden, which is a welcome respite on Parnell Street, and Mema’s is definitely one of those pubs that seems, TARDIS-like, to be bigger on the inside. In addition, it’s a handy spot for us Northside folk to meet friends, with the Luas just outside.  And speaking of meeting friends, it’s an ideal spot for a group hang (if you make a reservation, obviously – don’t be That Group that shows up with 15 people and no booking) – there are many seating options, and something for nearly every taste.

While early opening hours may be a thing of the past, Mema’s more than makes up for that with a slate of interesting events, music and drink options. The fact that it’s a handy walk for me is merely a bonus!

Where: 155 R803, Rotunda, Dublin
Access from the city centre: 15 minute walk; buses 1, 11, 9, 13, 16, 44, 46, 155, Luas Green Line
Food: Pizza, wings, chips
Sport: Not a sportsball spot
TVs: If they exist, they are well-hidden
Music: Usually a great indie vibe and some live music and comedy gigs
Family-friendliness: More of a post-uni scene, but there is pizza…
Pub-crawl-ability: Medium-high – The Big Romance, Kimchi Hophouse, The Flowing Tide, The Confession Box and Piper's Corner are not far at all
Local sites of note: Mountjoy Square, Rotunda Hospital, Hugh Lane Gallery, Garden of Remembrance, Abbey Theatre
Haunted: There could absolutely be haunted furniture or antiques; someone should start a rumour
Other notes: Lots of friendly doggos
Socials: Instagram, Facebook

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Slattery’s

Outside Slattery's on Capel StreetWhat, you might ask, is an early house? If you’re not a Dublin local, this may not be a familiar phrase, but this week, we’re heading to one of the city’s very few remaining such establishments – Slattery’s. For the uninitiated, an early house is a pub with a special license allowing it to open at 7 am. While most pubs can open at 10.30, and a fair few do, it’s usually breakfast or tea and coffee people are going for then – you don’t have to assume Airport Rules apply. But in the early houses, no one would look askance at that 7 am pint, as the original aim of the licensing was to offer a pub experience for those working unsociable hours; back when the rules were drawn up, that meant dock workers, market traders and the like, but the tradition continues for health care practitioners coming off night shifts and others in a similar position – they could enjoy their time-shifted after-work pint. Nowadays, though, early houses that actually exercise their early-opening options are few and far between, and for that reason, Slattery’s is one of a very few go-to options – though even they don’t throw open the doors until 9 am.

The main bar at Slattery'sI’ve only done the (relatively) early-morning visit there a few times, and in both cases, it was For Science – once to scope out the best spot to record a Beer Ladies Podcast episode, and the second time to actually make the recording, though it’s certainly not our finest hour when it comes to sound quality. Even at 9 am, there can be a fair-sized crowd, especially with North American tourists whose flights landed at 6 am and they are waiting to get into their hotel rooms. For them, Airport Rules certainly seem to apply, and they can be liberal with their breakfast Guinnesses (though as an overnight flight in coach is a generally awful experience, no shade here for them).

Upstairs at Slattery'sAnd it is the Guinness most seem to be coming for; there aren’t any craft options, but they have added both 0.0 and the Heineken 0.0 of late, so there are alcohol-free options for those who want to have that morning pint, but also a reasonably productive day. Slattery’s has a classic Irish pub interior, with lots of dark wood and deep colours, some snugs and various nooks and crannies, as well as tributes to local historical and musical figures throughout the bar. And it does draw both that curious tourist and a steady local crowd, so it’s always a lively mix.

I’d still love to see at least one local craft tap some day, but when in the mood for a Guinness, it’s a fine spot.

Where: 129 Capel St, North City, Dublin 1, D01 YN83
Access from the city centre: Buses 13, 27, 49, 77A, 83, 151, Luas Red Line to Jervis or 12-ish minute walk
Food: Breakfast, bar snacks and all the other usual meals
Sport: All the big sports are on
TVs: In various spots throughout
Music: MOR tunes and live music options
Family-friendliness: There is a kids’ menu and they are most welcome at the usual (and slightly unusual) times
Pub-crawl-ability: High – the many pubs and bars of Capel Street include Pantibar, J McNeil’s Pub, The Black Sheep, Underdog, to name just a few; The Hacienda is just down the road, and The King’s Inn and Bonobo are also quite close, – Fidelity isn’t so far, either…
Local sites of note: Capel Street, Four Courts, Collins Barracks, National Leprechaun Museum, at some point, the Fruit & Veg Market will reopen…
Haunted: There is the Ghost Story Gathering upstairs…
Other notes: Not to be confused with Slattery’s in D4
Socials: Instagram

Weirdo Guide to Dublin Pubs: Grogan’s

Toasties and pints at Grogan'sThis week, we are journeying to one of those ‘needs no introduction’ pubs that’s simply part of the fabric here in Dublin, and sometimes, you just need a pint and a toastie. And so, to Grogan’s.

While the cash-only policy is, thankfully, gone, everything else is old-school in the right way. The slightly scuffed, but art-covered walls, the jumbled stools and tables, the mix of regulars and tourists and the just-right toasties that go perfectly with your pint are all present and accounted for. While Grogan’s – more correctly, Grogan’s Castle Lounge – has been a pub since 1899, the present incarnation has been going strong since the 1970s, when it became a renowned literary haunt for the likes of Patrick Kavanagh and Flann O'Brien. And while its old-school cred is very much deserved, it’s a progressive sort of old-school: Grogan’s was one of the first pubs in Dublin that served women without a fuss – and if you haven’t picked up Ali Dunworth’s recent book, A Compendium of Irish Pints, well…you should! It’s a fascinating look at the many nuances of ‘pints’ here in Ireland, and the relevant section here on how Grogan’s led the way on ‘allowing’ women to drink pints (rather than half-pints, or ‘glasses’ as they are more usually known here) IN FULL VIEW OF MALE CUSTOMERS…it was a whole thing! We also had Ali on the Beer Ladies Podcast in the season we just wrapped up, so do give a listen.

The colourful lightbox with regulars' faces on the wall at Grogan'sAnd, speaking of podcasts, there’s an entire episode of Three Castles Burning dedicated to Grogan’s, and it is very much worth your time; Donal Fallon’s always-excellent podcast is required listening for anyone visiting or living in Dublin, and it’s a fascinating story. You know when a pub has generated this much affection over the years, there’s likely a reason for it.

And while I personally tend to go to quieter pubs most of the time, it’s hard to beat Grogan’s for people-watching (inside or outside), and it’s an ideal place to meet someone as it’s so central. The toastie (with or without ham – your choice) is a perfect quick bite, and it’s especially welcome in this part of town, where the options are pricier/larger sit-down meals or the odd packet of crisps. Beer-wise, there’s obviously plenty of Guinness on offer (both full-fat and 0.0), plus O’Hara’s as a local craft choice, and there is also Beamish, Murphy’s and the lesser-spotted draught Harp (at least here in Dublin – it’s much more common in Belfast), along with the usual macro suspects.

While it’s rare to find any empty seats, Grogran’s is also the kind of pub where if you simply wait a bit, something may open up, or you may be invited to join an existing party and have a chat. You may as well…

Where: 15 William St S, Dublin 2, D02 H336
Access from the city centre: You are very central
Food: Toasties
Sport: Only verbal gymnastics
TVs: No
Music: Not here
Family-friendliness: You do see kids brought in as tourists, but it’s awfully crowded for them; still, toasties!
Pub-crawl-ability: High – The Long Hall, The Hairy Lemon, Caribou, Peter's Pub, Sinnot's Bar and Bar Rua are all within stumbling distance, with many more beyond
Local sites of note: George’s Street Arcade, Gaiety Theatre, St Stephen’s Green, Dublin Castle, Chester Beatty, Craft Central (IYKYK)
Haunted: No well-known stories, but surely, at least a few old regulars would like to return…
Other notes: Grogan’s is open from 10.30 am, so you can always beat the crowds with a mid-morning tea
Socials: Instagram